三分鐘認識一個名莊 西班牙的無冕之王——Pingus

三分鐘帶你認識一個名莊 大家好 我是旅洋 在我心中 你如果要說酒王的話 就在這裏 就是西班牙的PINGUS 坐在我身邊的是Peter 一個丹麥人 在95年在西班牙杜羅河谷 做了自己的酒莊 很快就成爲了一個膜拜的酒莊 今天跟Peter在一起 我們來了解一下 西班牙酒王PINGUS的故事 Hello Peter Hello 我給你一分鐘去講一下 PINGUS的故事 Basically was an urge to try to work with very old vineyards and that is one of the very good things we have in Spain We have local varieties and very old wines It's a dream for most people So why not take advantage of it And so I did that in 95 Found a wonderful 4 hectare old vineyard Planted in 29 I said Of mainly Tapanio But also some 2 or 3% white grapes And yeah so in the beginning I would just try to make the wine No technique Something very Trying to find the right expression Of the Tapanio And we've been doing now for 30 years And slowly we're coming closer And closer to the good wine So it's a long travel But yeah 全世界有很多地方都有老藤 南法 西班牙 澳洲 智利 南非 我聽到你對老藤的定義 是不一樣的 那可以大家解釋一下 老藤對你來說是什麼 以及爲什麼這樣定義 Yeah First of all What's really truly great about old wines Is that old wine is non-clonal It is mass selection It is often trellis absent And non-irrigated The irrigation I know it's very controversial And I'm not gonna Have anybody get angry with me But I do believe that Irrigation is the part of the original sin It should not exist in opinion OK It's a drug 你從2000年開始的話 就開始做生物動力法 這個也是個相對來說 有點爭議的一個話題 那對你來說 生物動力法意味着什麼 以及它對你的葡萄酒改變了什麼 For hectares since 1929 It's basically a monoculture So if you don't do anything to it It dies out So Claude Bourguignon from Burgundy said In the old days that Many vineyard soils are as dead as the sand in Sahara So there's no microbiological life yet left The very good methods of kick-starting The microbiological life in the soil Is through the methods that Was invented by Rudolf Sainer in the 20s So we use It's basically a compost-based system Where the quality of the compost is reintroducing Not just what is good about bacteria But also the fungi The fungi is what today you call it Migaritza or kind of But basically try to reconnect All the vines within a specific area to each other And you do that through the hyphens of the fungi That lives in as well If you encourage it 從2007年的時候 你做了一個新項目叫做Sci 那爲什麼要做這個項目 以及這個項目的目的是什麼 Again because I had seen What the result we could get out of Of the Pincus vineyard So also for Florida Pincus We're also working with old vines And at the same time I was realizing that My colleagues in the region of Rivera del Duero Didn't have the same belief In the old vines as I did So most people were pulling out And to avoid that we started this project I called all my customers And asked them Are you willing to support this project If we do this So that's how we started So it's an old vine project And again coming back to the old vines So the origin is diversity We want to go away from Individual single plant clonal Or that is For the first of all It makes the same wine everywhere Everybody uses the same clone If in Chile, Bordeaux Then you all use the same 337 Cabernet Sauvignon or whatever And they will use the same yeast They will use the same machinery They will use the same barrels in the end It's all the same So this is a bit boring So in order to Create diversity and interest I think we should try to Embrace the diversity 給我們講一個 你酒莊的一個 好玩的一個事實 或者一個小祕密 大家都不知道的 Well we do have that special From most other people We have a magnificent lab Huge We have three people Working in the lab Which is a bit sort of Why do you have that When you try to make Very natural wines And we don't And exactly that's why We need a fantastic lab We want to know all about what we have So we can really push the boundaries So we don't have to use Too much sulfur Or filtration everything But we know it Without running a risk So most people They say I don't filter But do you know anything about it No no I just don't do it from a philosophy But then your wine can go wrong I don't know But that's not my problem That's the customer problem I would like to foresee that I don't create a problem For my customers 如果你只能用一個詞 或者一個形容 甚至一個比喻的話 去形容一下 你想在蘋果想做的 一個風格或者理念的話 最直接的詞是什麼 I would say transparency and youth I think what most people When we tasted this 96 A couple of days in Beijing Was everybody was stunned About how young it was Even a wine that was 30 years old Was so young And still lively and fresh And with a plenty of potential For moving forward On a plateau Because it's not that it's going to But it will be able to maintain itself In a good cellar of course The purity The aging of the wine Is basically the purification process That's a good thing You purify the wine And so it's very important That you don't have aromatic errors Of special funky stuff 你從1983年就開始 進入葡萄酒的世界 40多年了 那如果你給你年輕的時候 一句話 或者一個建議的話 會是什麼 如果你能選一瓶酒 任何的酒 可以是你的 可以是其他人的 和一個人去分享 這人可以你認識也不認識 或者死了 或者還在世 酒會是什麼 人會是誰 那是個很好的答案 謝謝Peter 謝謝你 乾杯