5 Adorable DIY Easter Sewing Projects You'll Love!

Hi everyone, Angela here. In this video I'll show you how we make a carrot out of fabric. Links for all the tools I use and my pdf patterns can be found in the description below. I'm just using some plain orange quilting cotton but you can use any fabric that you like. Place one of the pattern pieces down either small, medium or large and cut one out. You could also fold the pattern in half lengthwise and then place that fold onto folded fabric and cut it out that way. This next step is optional. On the right side of your fabric draw a line across the top 3-8 of an inch or one centimeter from the edge. Then fold your fabric in half right sides together and with the edges matching and then clip or pin together if you need to. For the carrot stem I'm using some green craft felt. Use the matching stem pattern and cut one out. Then use a pin or a clip to keep the top edges together. Cut out the quarter inch strips along the lines on the pattern or you can just do this freehand. Thread your needle with the double thread so that you have about 15 inches or so to work with. Next roll the solid end of the felt tightly all around. Secure the ends with a couple of stitches and then stitch through all the layers in a couple of places. Wrap the thread around the bottom a couple of times about a quarter of an inch from the edge and knot it in place. I'm setting my needle position so that it's quarter of an inch from the right edge of the presser foot giving me a quarter inch seam allowance and I'm also turning on the automatic backtack. Stitch your quarter inch seam allowance starting with that backtack and there's no need to backtack at the end of the point. Turn it right side out and use something like a knitting needle or a chopstick to poke out the end or you may need to use a pin or needle to pull the point out. Take your needle and thread again and sew a small running stitch along the chalk line starting near the seam. If you're finding this video helpful make sure to like, share, subscribe and turn on all notifications and also leave a comment below. Next fold the top edge in and crease right along the stitch line. Fill the carrot with polyfill, polyester stuffing or fabric crumbs. Start off with smaller pieces so that you can push it right down into the point. You can fill it however much you like but I like to pack it in so that it's pretty firm. Push the filling down so that it's out of your way and then pull on the thread to gather up the top until you just have a small opening left. Sew a stitch to hold it in place and then push the green stem into the opening. To close the opening catch a bit of the stem and the top of the gather with each small stitch. As you're sewing around you can pull on the thread to tighten up the gathers around the stem. To complete the stitching make a loop and pass your needle through to create a knot. Do this twice and then push your needle through the stem and out the body of the carrot and then pull tight and trim your thread. Now what I like to do is squish the carrot between my hands and try to smoosh it creating some wrinkles to give it some more character. For this easter egg bag print out the pattern at 100% letter size, cut out both pieces, the center hole on the top piece and then join them together. You can find the link for this pattern down in the description below. Cut the three notches on the top and the two at the bottom. Cut the ends of each dart and then use an awl to poke a hole just below the points. Etch across the two dotted lines and then fold and crease each one. If you're using minky fabric make sure the direction of the nap goes down towards the bottom of the pattern. For the main fabric I'm using quilting cotton with a directional pattern. Cut two with the grain line parallel to the selvedge edge. Cut the notches for the darts and the three notches at the top. The notches should only be about an eighth of an inch deep. To give the bag a puffy look use fusible batting with the glue dots on one side. Cut two pieces then cut the bottom of the darts and the three notches at the top. With the fabric right sides together cut two pieces for the lining then cut the notches for the opening the bottom of the darts and the three at the top. By the way I like to use my Kai embroidery scissors to cut all my notches. Use a vanishing ink pen to mark the tops of the dart and also to trace around the hole at the top. Flip over and mark on the other piece. I'm just going to mark the darts and the opening so that you can see. With the glue side up place the wrong side of the main fabric on top of the batting, match the notches and then press together. Then repeat with the other pieces. Place the pattern on top with all the notches lined up. Fold along the two dotted lines and mark the stitch line onto the fabric. Flip over to the batting side and then mark out the bottom and the top of the darts. Repeat on both sides for the other piece. For the trim I'm using five eighths of an inch and half inch wide rick rack. You can really use any type of trim that you like. Center the wider rick rack on the top line. Start by back tacking and then stitch right along the center of the rick rack. You can pin all the rick rack in place or you can just keep checking that you're centering the rick rack right on top of the lines. Back tack at each edge and cut the rick rack only when you're finished sewing both pieces. Now sew the smaller rick rack on the bottom lines. For other easter project ideas make sure to watch my tutorials on how to make fabric carrots and also a cute little bunny ear basket. I'll leave the links for them down in the description below. Now two rows of rick rack is just fine but if you want to add one more just stitch in between the two. With right sides together place the lining on top of the fabric. Match the top and side notches and clip in place. Pin through all the layers inside the circle and repeat for the other side. Stitch all around right on top of the line. There's no need to back tack just overlap your stitching about half an inch to finish. To make the darts separate the fabric fold with right sides together matching the notches at the bottom. Crease along the center with that top mark on the fold. Start your stitching just beside the notch and then stitch about half an inch past that top mark. Stitch with a very slight curve. Start by back tacking and then finish your stitch by running off the edge. Trim the thread leaving about a half inch tail. Repeat for all the darts. Cut down the Fold the piece in half and then cut out the center of the circle leaving about a quarter inch seam all around. Cut small notches all around about quarter of an inch apart. Cut your notches close to the stitch line being careful not to cut any of the stitches. Separate the fabric open up the darts and press them flat. The darts will create a slightly rounded shape at the bottom. Pull the lining through the opening and adjust the seam all around so that it's right in the center. Pull the lining taut as you press around. Trim the lining if you need to to make it even and cut the center notch again. We need to stitch the top handle part of the bag first. With the lining side up roll tightly starting from the right hand side. When you're about an inch and a half from the edge separate the fabric. Fold the main fabric up and over so that right sides are together. Match the side notches and pin together just below it. Push the rolled fabric in and out of the way and carefully clip the outer edges together. At the top unroll the fabric a little bit so that you can easily match the notches and clip just a little bit to the right of them. Using a quarter inch seam allowance start your stitching right at the notch. Start with a back tack and then carefully stitch around just past the top notch and back tack to finish. Trim the threads and then pull out that side of the handle. This time with the main fabric facing up roll tightly and then bring the lining up and around. Match the side notches and pin just below it. Again push the rolled fabric out of the way and clip the edges together to the top. Continue the stitching from the top back tack stitch around stop at the notch and back tack to finish. Pull up the handle and then repeat for the other side. Open up the fabric and push in the handle slightly on each side. Then open up and separate the fabric right up to the notches. Put right sides together and carefully match each side at the notches and then pin through all the layers between the two different fabrics. Clip all around and then on the lining side place two pins on the bottom notches for the opening. Start by back tacking at one end of the opening. Stitch around making sure that you're only catching two layers. Then finish by back tacking in line with the other stitching. Flip the fabric in the center out of the way. Start by back tacking in line with the other stitches. Stitch all around the main fabric and then back tack when you get to the notch on the other side. Flip over to the bottom of the lining. Start on the other side of the opening. Back tack and then stitch up to the notch and back tack to finish. Turn the bag right side out and check that both seams are nice and tight. If you find it's still gaping just go back in and sew a few more stitches. Push in the main fabric out of the way. Fold in the seams of the opening straight across. Edge stitch to close, back tacking at the start and finish. Push out all the edges, adjust the seams and then give it a good press. This bag will easily fit about eight eggs. Push in the bottom and it'll sit like a cute little basket. Hi everyone, Angela here. In this video I'll show you how to make my fabric Easter baskets with bunny ears. Print out the pattern and cut out four of the main pieces and four lining pieces. Join the sides and tape together. There's also a pattern piece for the ear and one for the inner ear. Some fabrics you can use for the basket are polyester minky polar fleece that has a nap or embossed microfiber. For this video I'll be using quilting cotton for the outer and inner layer and also for the inner ear pieces. To give the outer layer a puffier look I'll be adding fusible batting with the glue dots on one side and for the lining and the ears I'll be using a medium weight non-woven fusible interfacing. Using the main pattern piece cut one out of batting and also the outer fabric. With the glue side up place the wrong side of the outer fabric onto the batting and press it together. Another way to cut out the fabric is to take the lining pattern and trace it onto the interfacing and then just roughly cut it out so that it's slightly bigger. Then place the glue side down onto the wrong side of the lining and press together. Now you can precisely cut out both layers at the same time. Trace out four of the bunny ears onto the interfacing and cut out as one single piece. Check the direction of the nap if you're using a minky fabric and lay it down with the wrong side up. Place the glue side of the interfacing on top and press together. Use scissors or your rotary blade to cut them all out. Then cut out two of the inner ear pieces out of fabric only. Center them on top of two of the ear pieces with the straight edges lined up then place pins through the middle to hold in place. Now everything is prepped and ready to be sewn. I'll be using the Brother NV50S sewing machine and it's exclusive to Echidna Sewing here in Australia. To sew on the inner ear I'll be using 31 the rickrack stitch but you can use any decorative or overcasting stitch. If you're finding this video helpful make sure to like, share, subscribe and turn on all notifications and also leave a comment below. When you get to the point have your needle down, lift your foot, pivot and continue. I love the way it looks like a nice thick zigzag. Now place the other ear pieces on top with right sides together then pin or clip in place. Select the straight stitch and also turn on the automatic reverse. Leave the short end open and stitch all around with a quarter inch seam allowance back tacking at the start and finish and pivoting at the point. Trim off the tip of the point and also the side seams on a slight curve. On this other ear I'm going to give you a little bonus tip. When you get to the point leave your needle down and lift your foot and cut a length of thread that's about 20 inches or 50 centimeters long. Remove the clips and then place half the thread between the layers and right up against the needle. Lower the presser foot and sew one stitch and leave your needle down. Lift the foot and then pull the top of the thread around right against the needle again. Tuck it in between the layers and out of the way then continue sewing to the end. By doing this you can see the thread's just wrapped around one stitch at the top. Trim the point making sure not to cut that thread. Turn the ears right side out and use something like a point out. On the other ear pull on both ends of the thread to get a nice point and then you can just easily remove the thread. Making sure that the fabric is flat fold the bottom in half with the inner ear together. I'll just mark this so you can see. For both ears stitch one inch down through all the layers half an inch from the fold back tacking at the start and finish. Use something to help spread out the inner fabric and press down evenly to create a small box pleat. Fold the wider sides of the main fabric together and cut tiny notches in the center. With right sides together center the ears on the notch and stay stitch quarter of an inch from the edge. To sew the curved sides together make sure that the fabric isn't pleated at the bottom and that the top and side edges line up. Start your seam quarter of an inch below the top edge. Back tack here but you don't need to back tack at the bottom. At the bottom corners just continue stitching through leaving about a one inch tail. Again at the top you'll just have that little bit that isn't sewn. Repeat for all the other sides and do exactly the same for the sides of the lining. Turn the lining right side out and place inside the outer basket. Match the top edge and all of the side seams. We'll be stitching all around the top and leaving an opening on the narrower side. Open up the seams and match together then pin through about half an inch to the right of it. Then clip the seams together. Do the same thing on the other side and pin through to the left of the seam. Then clip or pin all around. Use a three eighths of an inch seam allowance all around back tacking at the pins. Turn the basket right side out and fold and smooth out the seam allowances of the opening. Edge stitch an eighth of an inch all around. When you're folding to sew this top edge you should have just a tiny little bit of the main fabric showing. This way the lining doesn't stick out on the right side. Because the lining is a slightly smaller pattern it's nice and neat on the inside without any extra folds on the bottom. Put the tops of the ears together and using the template and an awl make a hole through all the layers and install a cam snap set. If you don't have these you can sew on regular snaps or just tack the ears together. This is the bunny ears treats bag. For this tutorial I'll be making the sides. I'm putting my lining fabric right sides together then on top of that I'll place my main fabric. You'll notice that this fabric has a directional print so we want to make sure that we place the pattern down the right way. The edge with the two notches is the bottom of the bag. I'm cutting out the four layers together and notice that I'm not using any of the selvedge. If you're using a rotary blade make sure not to over cut at the center v-point. Cut or mark the two notches on the lining. If you need to clip the main pieces and the linings together. This inner ear detail is optional. Cut two pieces out of contrast fabric. With the inner ears wrong side up fold up all three sides quarter of an inch and press. I'm using the Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine. The link for this and the tools I use are down in the description below. If you're in Australia or New Zealand click the link for Echidna Sewing and Juki Junkies for North America. Back tack at the start and finish of each seam down this side across the bottom and up the other side. To box out the bottom separate the fabric open up the corners so that the edges match and the seams are in the center. Open both seams make sure they match clip together then repeat on the other corner. With the quarter inch seam allowance stitch across both edges back tacking at the start and finish. For the lining you're going to stitch around exactly the same way except you're going to leave that small opening between those two notches. Back tack at the start and finish and also back tack between the two notches. If you're finding this video helpful make sure to like, share, subscribe, turn on all notifications and leave a comment below. As always I'd love to know where in the world you're watching from. On the main fabric open up and press the side seams flat. Press the bottom seam as well then turn right side out. On the lining press the side seams open and then at the bottom fold over the sides of the opening evenly and press. Open the lining to the right side and then from the top of each point mark one and a half inches down. With right side up place the top of the inner ear on that mark and pin in place. Go in and center the bottom of the ear along the seam pin as shown and repeat on the other side. Starting from the bottom of the inner ear back tack and then stitch close to the edge all around. Push in any fabric that's showing from underneath. At the corners have the needle down lift the presser foot and pivot. At the top have your needle down right at the corner pivot then push in that little bit of fabric continue stitching and back tack to finish. Remove the other pins and then repeat on the other side. With right sides together put the main fabric inside the lining match the top and the side edges and carefully clip all around. Using a quarter inch seam allowance again start the stitching along the side. There's no need to back tack. At the top continue stitching until you get to the side seam. You'll be very close to the top edge of the fabric have your needle down and pivot. At the inner corners sew past it a quarter of an inch and then pivot. When you get back to the starting point there's no need to back tack just overlap the stitching about an inch. Clip into the inner corners as far as possible being careful not to cut the stitching. At the top of the ears trim down the seam allowances on each side on a bit of a curve. Cut close to the stitch line up to the top of the fabric without cutting that center seam. This way that stitch line won't come apart when we push it out. Go through the opening to turn it right side out then use a point turner or knitting needle to carefully poke out the points of the ears. Make sure not to force it and create a hole. You can also use a pin to gently pull the fabric up to create a nice rounded point. To close the opening match the folded edges and edge stitch together back tacking at the start and finish. Push the lining all the way in and adjust the top seam so that they're right in the center and press all around. I'm using a one and a half inch wide ribbon and cutting a 26 inch length. Place the top edge of the ribbon a quarter inch below this point. Fold the ribbon in half center it onto the bag then pin it in place. Push the front of the bag out of the way and just sew a few stitches back and forth across the top. The width of the ribbon stays loose so that it can easily scrunch up when it's tied. If you rather leave the bag plain without any ribbon you can just fill it up about halfway and use a little colored hair elastic to tie around the top. To tie a bow around the bag pull the ribbon ends to the front with the right over the left. Push the right end up the center and pull tight. Move the left ribbon that's on top out of the way then make a small loop with the right ribbon holding it close to the knot. Without twisting the ribbon loop the left ribbon around the right and then push it through the loop on the back. Pull each side of the bow until the center is tight and then readjust the ends and the bow until you like the way it looks. Open up the ears and trim the ends of the ribbon on an angle. The small bag will easily fit an egg and several treats and fits in the palm of your hand. The large bag can fit this chocolate bunny or a large chocolate easter egg but to give you a better idea of the size you can fit a regular roll of toilet paper in there and use this as decoration or storage in your bathroom. This is my latest bunny ears and tail drawstring bag design. Out of the main fabric cut two each of piece A, B and C. Don't include the selvedges and if you're using a directional print make sure the pattern is facing the correct way. You don't have to use all the same fabric you can use any combination. With your lining fabric cut two of piece A. To give the bag some body use Veleseline H640 which is a fusible fleece with the glue dots on one side. Cut two of piece A. You can also use heavy fusible interfacing instead of the fleece. To create a fluffy looking tail and ears you can use a couple of different fabrics like this lightweight fleece. Cut two of piece C for the outer ears. You can also use faux fur or fun fur for the ears and tail. The fur on this is about a quarter inch long. You should always cut the fur from the back. Cut the backing fabric only and not the fur so that the pile doesn't get chopped off and there's a lot less shedding. We'll use a different method for making the ears out of faux fur. Instead of cutting out the shape of the ears cut two pieces half an inch bigger all around. Have the lining pieces right sides together and place the pattern piece back on top. Either cut small notches at the bottom for the opening or just mark. I'm using a soluble ink pen. If you need to clip together the sides and bottom. Place the top channel pieces with right sides together. Place the pattern piece back on top and double check that the print is facing the right direction. Cut or mark the notches on each side. If you need to clip between the notches. With the inner ears right side up mark the notch at the bottom. If you're using fleece for the outer ears place the inner ears on top with right sides together and clip around if you need to. If you're using the fur check that the nap is in the right direction and then center the inner ear on top with right sides together. First pin down the center of the ear and then all around perpendicular to the edge. The fabric can shift a lot on this type of fur so use as many pins as you need. I find this method works better than cutting out the shapes and clipping around. With the batting glue side up place the wrong side of the front on top and press together. Then repeat with the back. Place pattern piece A on the right side of the back piece and mark the notches for the ears and the dot for the tail placement. I'm using the Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine. The link for this and the tools I use are down in the description below. If you're in Australia or New Zealand click the link for Echidna Sewing and Juki Junkies for North America. Using a quarter inch seam allowance back stitch at each end and at the notches. Repeat on the other side and trim the threads. Separate the fabric and press open the seams flat with your fingers. Turn the fabric with right side up and edge stitch on either side of the seams. There's no need to back stitch just trim the threads leaving little tails at each end. Fold up in half with wrong sides together, match the raw edges and press all around. For the ears have the fleece on the bottom and with a quarter inch seam allowance stitch around the sides back stitching at the start and finish and pivoting at the tip. To pivot stop quarter of an inch before the edge, have the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn. At the top of the ears trim the seam down close to the point and the sides being careful not to cut the stitching. Turn right side out and use a knitting needle or a point turner to carefully push out the tip. Also use it to push out the side seams. To sew the ears with fur you'll be using a quarter inch seam allowance measuring in from the edges of the top piece. Back stitch at the start and finish and pivot at the tip. The top fabric may really want to slip so use an awl or a point turner to keep the edges in place. Trim away the extra fur and the seam allowance at the tip and sides. Remove the pins, turn right side out and push out the tip. Repeat with the other ear and give them a light press. For the rest of the tutorial I'll just be using these ears with the fur. With right sides together and the fur facing down position the ears along the top edge of the front piece. Match the notches and pin together down the center. Fold the sides inward so they meet in the center and clip in place at the top. Stitch an eighth of an inch from the edge to hold the ears in place. Make sure the print is running in the correct direction and place the front piece on top with right sides together. Match the edges and clip the sides and bottom together. Using a quarter inch seam allowance stitch around the sides and bottom. Back stitch at the start and finish and pivot at the corners. Trim both corners being careful not to cut the stitching. Using a quarter inch seam allowance sew the lining along the sides and bottom leaving an opening between the notches. Back stitch at the start and finish and at each notch then trim the corners. If you're finding this video helpful make sure to like, share, subscribe, turn on all notifications and leave a comment below. As always I'd love to know where in the world you're watching from. You can also show your support by becoming a member. Open up the lining and press the side seams flat pressing only halfway down. Open up the outer bag, fold in the bottom and press open the side seams all the way down. Press open the bottom seam and turn right side out. Poke out the corners and press. Double check the opening is on the inside of the channel and place it around the top of the bag. Match the side seams and the top edges and clip all around. Stitch together all around an eighth of an inch from the edge. There's no need to back stitch. Fold up the sides and bottom of the outer bag and place it inside the lining with right sides together. Match the side seams and top edges and clip all around. Using a quarter inch seam allowance stitch together all around. There's no need to back stitch just overlap the stitching about half an inch to finish. Carefully pull right side out through the opening and push out the corners of the lining. At the opening fold in the seam allowances straight across. Match the folds and edge stitch it closed back stitching at each end. Place the outer bag back into the lining. Hold the bottom of the lining and pull the top channel all around so that the top seam is flat. Pull the ears straight out on the bottom. Start the top stitching from under this ear. Check that the seam is flat underneath then top stitch quarter of an inch below the seam all around back stitching at the start and finish. Make sure to check out my channel for more fun Easter projects. Use your finger to push down the corners on each side. To create the external box corner match the bottom seam with the side seam to form a triangle and lay it flat. Measure across from side to side using the measurement given for the size and mark a straight line across. For the medium it's three inches across make sure the line is square to the seam. Use a hair marker to mark a straight line across clip the sides then repeat on the other side. Stitch each corner straight across along the marked line back stitching at each end. To make the tail use a long needle with a larger eye. Also use stronger top stitch denim or upholstery thread. Measure out two arm lengths and thread the needle. Instead of tying a knot close to the ends leave about six or seven inches of thread and then tie a knot. The method for the fleece or fur tail is the same but I'm going to show you two different types of knots that will work on either fabric. For the first method begin by inserting the needle from the right side of the fabric through to the wrong side at the marked circle. Pull the thread through until the knot is about an inch and a half from the fabric. Sew a half inch long running stitch all around the circle. As you sew allow the fabric to slightly gather. When finished sewing all around place the needle beside the first stitch and pull through to the right side. The slight gathering forms a small shallow well. On the right side insert the needle twice between the threads under the knot. On the wrong side fold in the fabric along the stitch line. As you're folding pull in the raw edges to the center and hold in place with your thumbs. While holding on to the center carefully pull on the end with the needle to gather up and close the opening. Squeeze the top together and continue pulling tight. Once the opening has been pulled as tight as possible tie a square knot with the thread ends to secure the stitching. Then trim the end without the needle. It should look like a little cotton ball. With this length of thread still attached with the needle it's ready to be sewn onto the bag. If you prefer to glue the tail on just thread the needle through the tail and pull tight to bury the thread. For the second method thread the needle and tie the knot close to the ends. Insert the needle from the first side through to the wrong side at the marked circle and leave about a six inch long thread tail. Sew a half inch long running stitch all around the circle. When finished sewing all around place the needle right beside the first stitch and pull through to the right side. Pull on each end to slightly gather up the fur forming a small well in the center. You want to have two long thread tails to work with. Place your left finger underneath the tail with the needle about three inches from the fur. Take the second thread tail and cross it over the first one bringing it up from underneath and over the top of your finger. Hold both tails in place with your thumb and forefinger. Wrap the end of the second tail around both threads twice then pass the end through the loop beside your finger. Remove your finger from the loop while holding on to the thread tail and pull on the second tail to tighten the knot. This creates a small sliding knot. Fold in the fur along the stitch line. As you're folding carefully pull in all the raw edges to the center and hold in place with your finger and thumb. Carefully pull on the thread tail with the needle to gather up and close the opening. Keep squeezing together and pulling the thread tails until the fur completely covers the opening. Once it's pulled as tight as possible tie a square knot to secure the stitching and trim the end without the needle. With this length of thread still attached with the needle it's ready to be sewn onto the bag. If you prefer to glue the tail on just thread the needle through the tail and pull tight to bury the thread. To glue the tails on apply a small amount around the opening and press it onto the mark position on the back of the bag. To sew the tail on securely insert the needle at mark position through the outer bag and lining and pull tight. Position the tail so that the center back opening sits above the thread. Hold the tail in place and push it up against the bag until the lining is visible. Also push down the sides of the bag so they're out of the way. Feel for the center opening of the tail and push your thumb in to hold it in place. We'll stitch around the opening to secure the tail firmly on the bag keeping it from hanging loose. Insert the needle right beside the thread through all the layers making sure to catch the tail. Bring the needle back up about half an inch away from the previous stitch. Continue stitching in the same way working in a small circle around the opening of the tail. Pull firmly after each stitch. To finish insert the needle beside the last stitch to form a loop. Pass the needle through the loop, pull tight and repeat. Insert the needle right beside the knot and out through the tail to bury the end. The tail should sit just on top of the mark. At the seam fold the ears down and give it a light steam. Cut the two lengths of ribbon or cord for the drawstring. The ribbon I'm using is three Use a bodkin or a safety pin to pull it through. Thread the drawstring into the opening on one side and thread it all the way around so that it comes back out the same opening. Check that the ribbon isn't twisted then match the ends and tie them together in a knot. Then trim the ends on an angle. Repeat with the other drawstring starting from the other side. This small bag I made with fleece ears and a fleece tail. It'll hold a small chocolate rabbit and several chocolate easter eggs. Tie the top and spread the ears apart for the cutest little treats bag. The medium size bag that was just made will hold a larger chocolate easter egg and several more chocolates. The large size bag will easily hold a dozen cookies I just baked. This one I made with baby corduroy and contrast inner ears. I hope you have lots of fun making these bags out of your favorite fabrics. Thanks again for all your support. Take care and happy sewing!