A Quiet Winter Journey in Yamagata | Ginzan Onsen, Yamadera & Zao Snow Monsters

Yamagoya Hot Springs where the lingering aura of Taishō-era romance mingles with the threat of terror The ancient temple in the sky visited even by monks perched atop the mountain The menacing sculpture forged by nature—Zao's ice trees Join us for a serene journey to discover the quiet charm of Yamagata in winter This time we're visiting Yamagata in winter Mountain temple Ginzan Onsen—tracing the places that embody winter Yamagata We'll promptly take you to the Snow Country verse Northeast Japan in late January blanketed by cold waves The journey began as we looked down upon the land turned white We touch down at Sendai Airport and head straight for Yamagata Ladies and gentlemen we have arrived at Sendai Airport Keep the seatbelt low across your hips and fasten it securely until the belt reminder light goes off We ride the Chiyozan Line from Kūkō Station through Sendai Station heading toward Yamadera As we approached the Ou Mountains which separate Miyagi and Yamagata Prefectures the view from the train window transformed into a vast expanse of snow Leaving Sendai Airport about an hour and a half later The train arrived at Yamadera Station It's about a 10-minute walk from the station to the main gate of Yamadera What I’d like to enjoy along the way is Yamasato’s specialty hearty konjac A beloved specialty dish to build up strength before climbing the long stone staircase Now let's proceed toward the mountain gate of Yamadera aiming for the temple visible high above A mountain temple where the entire mountain functions as a site of practice and devotion centered around a ceremonial hall Officially known as Risshō-ji it is ancient temple of the Tendai sect Matsuo Bashō is also renowned for having visited this place and left behind a deep impression of its tranquility and the cicadas' song seeping into the rocks Stepping through the mountain gate a long staircase leading to the inner sanctuary begins That's 1 015 steps It is said to be a path of practice where afflictions vanish with each step climbed Climbing steadily for about 20 minutes The majestic Niōmon gate comes into view Beyond the Nio Gate the Five Great Avenues are just ahead The temple Wudadao stands poised on a sheer cliffside stage The iconic scenery of a mountain temple is found here An absolutely breathtaking view that takes your breath away It was a sky temple still radiating a strong aura of cultivation Back in Memonomachi we savor the flavors of our hometown The destination was Quanwu standing not far from Yamadera I enjoyed the hearty potato stew set meal I'd been eager to try in Yamagata A traditional local dish of taro and beef braised in a sweet and savory soy sauce with green onions The warm comforting essence of tender taro seeps gently into your body Simple and gentle broth a comforting nostalgic flavor that warms the heart Soba Yamagata Thick firm and with a satisfying chew It was a truly fulfilling moment Thank you for the meal Shaken by the train ride from Yamadera Station Let's continue our journey toward Ginzan Onsen where we'll spend the night Riding the heavy rain front we switched to the main line and headed toward Oishi-田 Station A train journey gazing toward Gassan as the snowy landscape flows past the window As the snow began to deepen we arrived at Oishida Station the nearest stop to Ginzan Onsen Transfer to the hotel shuttle bus After about 30 minutes of bouncing on the bus We push deeper into the mountain where the snowdrifts grow ever deeper Eventually we arrived at the quiet secluded Ginzan Onsen nestled in the valley Tonight's accommodation is Ginzan-so located at the entrance to Ginzan Onsen It is one of the few modern-equipped hot spring inns in Ginzan Onsen I chose a room where traditional Japanese and Western elements recently reborn seamlessly and comfortably blend This historic hot spring makes every moment spent in this room unforgettable Luxuriating in a bath all to yourself wrapped in the soothing scent of Aomori hemlock is the ultimate indulgence for adults A moment to relax with a cup of tea and a sweet treat thoughtfully prepared for you The ultimate moment of bliss Eventually it grew late in the evening First one spirit Renowned for its exceptional cuisine Ginzan-so A lavish array of dishes that delight both the eyes and the palate Premium-grade tuna carefully selected The rich savory flavor is simply astounding Melt-in-your-mouth Yamagata beef roast beef Rich in flavor and truly exceptional A delightful fusion of Japanese and Western cuisines each dish evoked a profound sense of wonder Yamagata's shiny lady with its delightfully chewy texture is perfect The meal and service were thoughtfully attended to in every detail making for a truly pleasant experience We finally head to the long-anticipated night view of Ginzan Onsen After walking about five minutes from the inn along the snowy path the lights of the hot spring town come into view Silver Mountain Hot Springs still rich with the nostalgic charm of the Taisho era Along both banks of the Ginyama River wooden inns built from the Taisho period through the early Showa era line up like trees At dusk the glow of GASTON's lights casts a nostalgic Japanese ambiance A night wrapped in snow Yamayama Hot Springs takes on an even more enchanting and dreamlike aura I'd long wanted to visit the winter beauty of Ginzan Onsen I was captivated by the romantic charm of the snowy landscape and the quaint hot spring town Reluctantly returning to the inn I warm my chilled body in the hot spring A luxurious onsen that gently soothes the skin perfect for savoring in solitude The soothing warmth of the bath gradually seeps into your body and soul bringing deep relaxation After a relaxing bath unwind in the lounge with a quiet moment savoring Japanese sake The sake received is Yamato a premium sake from Rokka Sen a sake brewery located in Higashi-Gen City Yamagata Prefecture A smooth delicate sake with a refined sweetness that unfolds beautifully on the palate In the quiet of the falling snow night deepens steadily The morning at Ginzan Onsen where the snowy landscape deepened further under the fresh snowfall of the night I arrived at the morning hot spring town treading carefully along the snow-covered path A dreamlike world unfolds where silence and snowy landscapes blend in perfect harmony A captivating morning scene that presents a distinctly different charm from night Back at the inn it was around dawn A traditional Japanese breakfast fitting for a hot spring inn I feel joy in the morning as colorful side dishes are laid out Leaving behind their lodgings the journey continues onward to Zuo Wang Take a bus and head first to Oiida Station Transfer to the Yamagata Shinkansen and head to Ichirō Yamagata Station The snowy landscape now deeper after a single night stretches endlessly beyond the passing train window At Yamagata Station transfer to the Sakou Onsen Snow Bus The journey concludes as we arrive at Zuo Wang After getting off the bus head toward the ropeway station to reach the ice trees The ice formations of the Zuwang born from the region's unique weather conditions and vegetation Its massive form wrapped in ice and snow is known as the Snow Monster and has become a symbolic winter landmark of Yamagata Snow Monsters form in Aomori and Tsumori To enjoy the view you need to hike from an elevation of 1 300 meters to 1 700 meters Along the way transferring between two cable cars The breathtaking ice-free vista praised for its beauty rivaling rime ice appears in the form of Funabashi's scenic wonder We approached the boat forest where the white glow was set free The delicate frost-free branches painted white in countless strands are a true embodiment of nature's sculptural beauty Stepping off the train at Jukkyō Kōgen Station the mid-mountain station at 1 331 meters you find yourself surrounded by a winter wonderland A massive glacial tree emerges draped in snow and ice Then surrendering to the cable car we glide above the ice fog zone The rime ice of Zao is formed when seasonal winds blow against the mountains merging with the snow from Aomori and Tsuchimura A cold mist-laden wind from the icy heavens swept through the trees freezing them cloaking them in snow and freezing again That gradual accumulation will eventually give rise to these ice formations Moreover places where such conditions come together are rare making the ice trees of Zao one of the most exceptional sights in the world On clear days beneath a blue sky a panoramic vista of frost-covered trees stretches in every direction But today as we approached the summit the weather took on the appearance of a blizzard The eerie glimpse of the snow monster's form fleeting and unnatural Amidst the blizzard and biting cold I never got to fully savor it With a lingering sense of regret we leave the summit behind The tree ice blending into the silver world also stands in a most captivating stillness The breathtaking vista beneath the open sky is a treasure cherished as part of the joy of sewing And with memories of unforgettable views this journey through Yamagata quietly comes to a close How was your journey this time We warmly invite your thoughts and feedback in the comments section below Your subscriptions and likes mean a great deal to us Farewell until our next journey