Jewellery expert Geoffrey Munn examines a remarkable Victorian serpent bracelet inherited through the family. Dated 1845 and set with substantial diamonds, the piece carries powerful symbolism of eternal love – and possibly mourning – with tiny hidden compartments containing locks of hair. With such artistry and emotion bound together, just how valuable could this extraordinary heirloom be? Filmed at the Royal Hall in Harrogate in 2016.
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Well, this is like the beguiling of Eve, isn't it?
Here is a serpent in front of us.
Now, what's the story of the serpent?
It belongs to my mother.
She was left it in a wheel about 50, 55 years ago.
Yes.
And she wore it as a young lady.
Yes.
Went dancing in it and it fell off.
So that's why it's been left in this box in the safe.
Well, it's in remarkably good condition for a serpent
and it's almost hissing with emblematic meaning.
The snake biting its tail is a very ancient emblem of eternity.
It's called the Ouroboros, the eternally renewing circle.
And the fact it's gold that's incorruptible.
And these are all metaphors for love.
And the color blue, something borrowed something blue,
says the same thing.
Combine it with diamonds, it's forever love.
Very conveniently, yours is dated 1845.
But it may be more significant because I've gone out of my way
to say that it's an emblem of love.
But it's more than that, actually.
It's probably a very sophisticated piece of mourning jewelry.
So mourning is love beyond the grave.
And here, very tragically, we see four little windows
with human hair in the back.
And every one has an initial in front of it
with the same initial at the end.
And I don't think there can be a shadow of doubt
that these are references to infant mortality.
Really?
Which was absolutely rife in 1845.
It's all about art, all about symbolism.
And with a tinge of tragedy,
we probably never, ever know who these people are.
And so it's jewelry saying everything
and saying nothing at the same time.
It's awe-inspiring, really.
So how would they get the little windows in there
when it was made?
Well, I think possibly the jewelers
were incredibly competent at that time.
And they would soar out with a file
and make a little window.
And what you couldn't do is go near the enamel
because that would break it.
Yes.
It's completely articulated to allow it onto the woman's wrist.
And it's in superb condition.
And also significantly,
there's some very substantial diamonds
in the head of the snake.
And this points towards a very high status family, really,
who could afford such a thing.
And I'm sure your mother values it enormously
and everybody else would value it enormously.
And so I think it's worth eight to 10,000 pounds.
Really? As much as that?
Goodness.
Well, that's a lot.
Well, it has beguiled us all, not just you.
But not with mammon, but with sentiment.
And that's really marvellous.