VPC Type 39VM Review_ The World’s Thinnest 200m Automatic Diver

Classic Watches & Style
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3 Video Views·Jan 16, 2026
What if you could own a professional-grade diver that disappears under a tuxedo cuff?
This is the VPC Type 39VM, the thinnest 200-meter automatic dive watch in the world.
VPC, or Venustus Per Constantiam, is the brainchild of renowned watch journalist
Thomas van Straten. After years of critiquing the industry's finest,
Thomas launched VPC to prove that beauty through restraint isn't just a slogan,
it's an engineering philosophy. Following the success of their debut field watch,
the Type 39VM, short for Viator Maris or Traveler of the Sea, takes that DNA into the deep.
It matters because it challenges the industry's reliance on chunkiness as a proxy for durability,
proving that true luxury lies in the elegance of thinness.
The 39-millimeter stainless steel case is a masterclass in proportions,
but its most shocking dimension is its height. At just 9.34 millimeters thick,
including the sapphire crystal, it defies the laws of typical dive watch construction.
The 316L steel is treated with a specialized hard coating, reaching a staggering 1800
Vickers to ensure it remains virtually scratch-proof. The aesthetic is a sophisticated
evolution of mid-century tool watches. You have a choice between two matte-textured dials,
the deep graphite or the silvery frost. Both feature applied diamond-cut indices
and dauphine hands filled with BGW9 superluminova. Framing the dial is a 120-click
unidirectional bezel with a matte black ceramic insert, featuring custom typography designed
specifically for this watch to ensure absolute visual harmony. To achieve such a svelte profile
without sacrificing performance, VPC turned to the Selema SW300-1B. This top-grade COSC-certified
chronometer is just 3.6 millimeters thick, allowing for an incredibly tight hand stack
that brings the dial closer to the crystal. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides
a reliable 56-hour power reserve. Despite its dress watch thickness, it remains a serious tool,
offering a screw-down crown and a full 200 meters of water resistance.
On the wrist, the 47-millimeter lug-to-lug distance ensures a balanced fit, but the thinness
is the revelation. It sits so flush that it redefines the gotta-go-anywhere-do-anything
category. The watch features a custom stainless steel bracelet with a single-button quick-release
system and a tool-less micro-adjust clasp, allowing you to swap to the optional HNBR
rubber strap in seconds. Priced at approximately €2,998 on the bracelet, it offers a level of
bespoke finishing and technical distinction usually reserved for five-figure independents.
The VPC Type 39 VM is for the enthusiast who tired of the bulky diver trope and seeks a
timepiece that values ergonomics as much as aesthetics. It is a sophisticated,
record-breaking diver that proves the most powerful statement a watch can make
is how little space it takes up.
