3-6 Women’s Fashion of the Tang Dynasty

Hello everyone. Last section, we have talked about the men with scarves in Tang dynasty. Now, let's move to the new lecture, women's clothing of the Tang dynasty. The first one is the jacket and dress, Ru Qun. The jacket in Tang dynasty refers to a short and narrow jacket, or cotton padded jacket, which is a dress style, matched with a woman's blouse and skirt. The coat is longer than the jacket and shorter than the robe. The coat body is quite looser. There are also jackets or cotton padded clothes. The shirt is unlined. Shirts can also be worn on the outside in spring and autumn. But unlike jackets with short sleeves, the letter is The color type of Ru and Ao in Sui and Tang dynasties is influenced by foreign clothing culture. Apart from the cross color, square color, and round color, there are a pair of various shapes. At that time, the collar, cuffs, and other parts are also regarded as the fox or decoration. And various embroidery decorations are applied to make the dressing effect more colorful and rich. The shape of the skirt is a rectangular straight skirt with a high waist. The skirt is tied high above the waistline, for example, under the chest, and even above the chestline. The skirt is grounded, showing a rich, natural, and graceful manner. From the early Tang dynasty to the prosperous Tang dynasty, women's dresses underwent an evolution from narrow to wide. During the glorious age of Tang period, the evolution of painting style is taken as the starting point, and women's charm is better with full build. A large bun and a loose large garment has also become popular. After the middle of the Tang dynasty, Huayi consciousness has been strengthened. The traditional Chinese aesthetic concept has been strengthened in clothing, and the clothing is getting bigger and bigger. In 839 AD, the wide-body long skirt is sewn with five pieces of silk, and six, seven, eight, or even twelve pieces are also used for. The width of clothes and silk in the Tang dynasty is about two feet, and the width of twelve dresses reached 3.48 meters. It is not convenient to walk in such a large loose skirt, so you need to wear high-heeled silk shoes. A very high toe is installed in front of the silk shoes so that the toe can hook the hem of the long skirt before walking. It is matched by a white underhead, a tall bun on the women's head, and many headdresses such as gold hairpins, silver greaves, and gold curtains, reflecting a luxurious and extravagant social fashion. The Tang dynasty is also very particular about the decorative processing of skirts. Skirts are mostly made of gold thread embroidery, printing, weaving flowers, and color alternation. What's more distinctive is the big-sleeved shirt of the middle and the late Tang dynasty. The big-sleeved shirt refers to the dress worn by women in Tang dynasty with especially large sleeves. It is wider than the euro-wide sleeve coat, and is covered or tied outside the ordinary middle coat. It looks elegant, which fully reflects the prosperous and grand cultural characteristics of the Tang dynasty. The costumes in beauties wearing flowers are very open and very wild in modern times, far surpassing the medieval Western Europe, wrapped up in layers at the same time, causing a social authenticity to the disputed of the time. Among the large number of pottery figurines unearthed in the middle and late Tang dynasty, the costumes of the ladies in the paintings can also reflect the most open female fashion culture at that time. According to documentary records, this kind of dress is the style of the middle and late Tang dynasty and has been passed down to the five dynasties. Shao, that is, silk cape. In Tang dynasty, women would like to wear a shao, silk cape. When wearing a long dress with narrow sleeves, bare chest and tied above the chest, they also wear a long shao on their shoulders with both ends hanging by their arms. Sometimes one end is longer than the other, sometimes the two ends are held in front of the chest, and sometimes the right end is tied to the belt, which is quite graceful and airy. This long shao is called pi bo at that time and is a very representative ornament on women's dresses in Tang dynasty. Liang dang, ban di, bei zi. This kind of dress is a kind of short-sleeved jacket with double appeals. The length is up to the waist, the two sleeves are wide and straight, and the length is not up to the elbow. In the early Tang dynasty, it is the clothes of the in the palace, which is more convenient for labor. At the end of the early Tang dynasty, it became popular among the people and became a kind of common clothing that can be worn by both men and women. Half-arms, ban bi, are usually covered outside the long-sleeved clothes or let inside the long-sleeved clothes, but cannot be worn alone. Min li and black yarn hat. In the early Tang dynasty, women had to wear min li to cover their faces from passing by when riding or traveling. Min li has been used as a hat ornament for nearly 500 years in history. It is mainly used to cover the appearance and body. Its reading records first appeared in Qin dynasty. In the early days of min li's popularity, both men and women could wear it. In Sui and Tang dynasties, it is mainly worn by women. Min and li are the first to refer to two items respectively, namely scarf silk and white hat. It is not until the Qin dynasty that the word min li appeared together. During the years of Emperor Tang Gaozong, the min li became the black yarn hat when it is as short as the person's neck. Okay, that's all the content of this course. The content of next course will be the Beizi of Song dynasty. See you next course.