Costume of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties

Hello everyone. In the last section, we have talked about the knowledge of uniforms in the Sui and Tang dynasties. Now, let's continue to learn the knowledge points of women's wear in the Sui and Tang and Wudang dynasties. On the basis of inheriting the tradition of national costumes, women's-like costumes in the Tang dynasty absorb the excellent elements of western regions of foreign cultures and develop innovatively, which is the mainstream of the Tang dynasty's costume culture. Women's dresses in the Tang dynasty had certain popular changes, which were called shishi zhuang by poets at that time. Its style is colorful and rich in categories, of which the most representative are following. The girdle dress was the representative dress of the period, mainly dressed in a short girdle or shirt on the upper part, a long skirt on the lower part, and pibo banbi, a thin head-seal show, or a finely woven grass show, and a bun on the head. The upper collar is usually very short. The neckline is divided into round collar, inclined collar, straight collar, chicken heart collar, and other changes. During the prosperous Tang dynasty, there were also populous colors, which were mostly worn by court concubines and kabuki performers. At the beginning of sleeves, there were two forms, wide sleeve and narrow sleeve. After the prosperous Tang dynasty, it gradually weakened into a widened skirt, due to the influence of wool clothing and enlarged scarf. The unlined upper garment is slightly longer than the girdle, and refers to steel, and when layered, it is light, soft, elegant, and breathable. The half arm is similar to today's short-sleeved shirt. Pibo is a kind of clothing worn around a woman's shoulder and arm. It is usually made of light and thin yarn fabric. It can be decorated with patterns or patterns by painting or hand painting. It can also be used as a weaving to dance back and forth. It is very soft and rich, matching with short straps. The lower partitudes mainly refer to long skirts, the upper end of the skirt waist, the lower hem of the half arm, and various other waistbands from the waistline of the girdle skirt. The high waistline is an important feature of the skirt style in this period. One can be divided into two styles, high waist under the chest and high waist over the chest. High waist and lower chest refers to the waistline at or close to the lower part of the chest, which is mainly reflected by the jacket and the lower hem. Most of them are used by ladies, and some dancers wear them like this. This style can reflect women's curves to a certain extent, mostly showing the shape of a full skirt with a thin waist and shoulders. High waist covering chest means that the waistline is higher than the chest high point. This style was popular throughout the Tang Dynasty and matched with girdle skirt and people. The upper girdle is mostly large sleeves tied inside the skirt. Tang Dynasty women wearing crossed collar and thick front have their skirts with wide or narrow waist and bands at the top. Belts are generally slender and hung down with a bow on the chest. The waistline is made up of skirt waist or waistband and is worn by ladies of waitresses with higher stature. It does not show much female curve and has a round and rich shape. In addition, women's dress in Sui, Tang and Biao Dynasties also had low waistlines or natural waistline. The low waistline is mainly seen in women wearing round neck or pointed collar gown, which is the above-mentioned main clothing style. The pointed collar gown or shirt is a kind of wuhu from ethnic minorities in the foreign countries. When women wear it, the waistline is composed of a wide belt or waist tower, which can be slightly higher than all ethnic hiplines. The styles of natural waistline are quite complicated. The styles of skirt and gown have natural waistline but they are rare. In 907, during a present army in the late Tang Dynasty has established the Haoliang. In the following 15 years or so, there were five dynasties, namely Haotang, Haojing, Haohan, Haozhou, which successively ruled the Yangtze River Basin, called the Biao Dynasty. At the same time, ten separatist regimes, such as Wu, Qianhou Shu and so on, appeared successively in various parts of the south and Shanxi in the north, which were called ten countries, collectively called five generations and ten countries. In these countries, Nantang, Liangshu, Wuyue were relatively stable. Their economies were relatively developed and they had a long history of cultural and artistic traditions. Therefore, they became the boss of culture at that time. The costumes of the five dynasties still follow the Tang Dynasty. In general clothing, such as the hat tower, the hat and feet are all made of hard beads and there are also many changes in form, such as rongfan, banana leaf sheet, flat sheet, upturned sheet, reverse folded sheet, etc. There are a lot of kinds of wrapping towers in the five dynasties. For example, Han Xizai of the Nantang Dynasty made a large ghost hat in the south of the Yangtze River, which is called Hanjun Qingge. The tower wall was even higher than the Dongpo Tower of the Song Dynasty. Wang Jian of Xishu left to wear big hats. When going out, he was afraid of being recognized, so he ordered the people to wear big hats. The country bands usually wore post gloves, lotus crowns and high bands. Houshu women wore high bands called Chaotianqi. Zhaohuihou of the Nantang Dynasty wore a high band and adorned her head with a blasphemous study band. The fan-cataclysm thing was disturbed in the Houtang Dynasty. When the emperor saw the lovely sunset clouds, he ordered the Dai house to make a skirt Qian Zhe Yao out of rosy clouds called Xia Yang Sha and give them to the palace wives. Later, following the emperor's example, the fox made colorful skirts and called them Fu Fu Jiao. During the Five Dynasties period, women had a kind of dress under the neck collar called Ge Li Zi, cloud shoulder of women. Clothing styles are becoming more and more attractive. Okay, that's all the content of this course. The content of next course will be knowledge points of costume of Song Dynasty. See you next course.