LOCKED IN 🔒 EP 2 // Broadhead Specific Sight Tape

Shoot a broadhead. You're inches to the left. Yeah. All right. Shoot a fill point Okay, that'll work. Welcome back to the locked in series brought to you by Black Rifle Coffee Today's a super important day leading up to September 1 today. We are gonna broadhead tune next We're gonna do something. I've never done before we're gonna build a broadhead specific sight tape using precision cut archery Then we're gonna head to the field and practice some realistic scenarios And at the end you're gonna see I find a major curveball that I wasn't expecting and how to fix that. Here we go Hold these So we're not messing with ups and downs both on the same plane elevation wise Another half hopefully so for Right-handed most of you it's probably the opposite. You know how these Southpaw guys are. That's always Anyways his broadheads hitting left impacting left of his fill point So we are shifting the cams to the right and now we've done one full turn on each and we're really close We're at just under 20 yards. Let's see. We don't need to waste our time with fill points now We're just gonna shoot until we get broadheads in the middle Then we'll back up to 30 and 40 and so on and so forth That is in the middle All right, so the first thing we had to do to Riley's bow was adjust the wheeling He wasn't getting any crazy up or downs when you compare his fixed broadhead, which is a VPA 3 blade to his fill point They're on the same plane same level But his VPA was shooting far left of the fill point regardless of the distance and the further he went back The further it would go left. We need to make a wheeling adjustment. You could adjust the rest, but he's got a lift RS So simply all we had to do was shift the cams away from the fixed broadhead So his fixed broadhead shooting left we and it says left to right on the limb shift So we just turned to the right about a full turn and it brought that broadhead right over to the fill point That's important. Once you do your broadhead tune Then we are gonna build a broadhead specific sight tape. I'm gonna print two sight tapes today One is gonna be with the fill point. The other is gonna be with the broadhead two different sight tapes So this airways 446 with 150 grains This collar weighs 18 and the aluminum hit weighs 16. So 34 plus 150 184 up front total airway 446. I want to make a sight tape specific for this This will be slower downrange speed because this has a lot of drag. Why not? Just make a sight tape specific to this I need 30 and 60. So the Garmin is 10 yards, but back So I'm gonna walk out to 40 yards from this target Shoot when the arrow whizzes past the Garmin I'll get a 30 yard speed and then I'll go out to 70 from this target to 70 Shoot it the arrow whizzing by will get our 60 yard downrange speed. Those are the two speeds I need then I need my peep to sight measurement. I need my peep to arrow measurement Precision-cut archery. It'll be a beautifully accurate tape I will print out the fill point versus the broadhead sight tape So you guys can see like probably once you hit about 50 yards and beyond it'll start being a lot Slower tape with the fixed broadhead So here's 70 Somebody honked that full draw two shots 60 yard is 252.7 with the broadhead and that's my 60 yard speed and then without a broadhead is 262.3 That's 10 feet a second difference at 60 yard reading that's gonna be a different sight tape That's why you should make a sight tape specific for your fixed broadhead Let's do a 30 yard one next I'm also using this bow for tack. I'm using this arrow, but I use a hundred grain point so Obviously this sight tape is built for tack and I can take it on and off the plate and I'll put it on for Montana and Utah attacks so at 30 with the broadhead We're at 270 0.1 with the fill point. We're 274 0.1 next up is Riley. I will say if you have the time, we're just making a quick video I would do three shots for 30 and maybe three shots for 60 or 70 or 80 Whatever you you're comfortable in your downrange speed and then get an average of the three 238 point four 223 point three this is my 2024 lift and I'm gonna go with Edit sight in this is the fill point density out to 2500 30 and 60 30 was 274 point three or 0.1 and my 60 was 262 point three update sight in and then for the Iron will wide 446 let's update this edit sight in we have Downrange speed of 30 yards is 270 point one and my 60 is 252 point seven update sight in we want to print but now I'm going to print out the Fill point tape Riley's RS sonic 414 grain on an XL landslide You're left-handed. So let's change To that All right, Riley you have a broadhead sight tape So you can see like once you're about 50 yards. I'm off a yard 80 Probably two yards 90 three yards. It does make a difference on that broadhead sight tape Once you have a past 50 for my current setup, but part of locking it in once you've gotten your broadheads tuned Now we are going to lock in your broadhead sight tape and now we're gonna go ahead to the field Bring a 3d elk and practice some realistic scenarios for elk My iron will wide is 10 feet a second slower at 60 yard downrange speed We use the Garmin we use precision cut Make sure that Garmin is about 10 yards exactly from your target and you just need to whiz right over it You'll get good readings shoot a few per distance we chose 30 and 60 if you're comfortable go 30 and 80 if you have a setup for that and Get those you'll get a real accurate sight tape now There's sight tapes not that different but it does seem to make a difference once you get a past 40 50 yards It'll start being off by a yard or two which can get super annoying If you have a short draw length like me and Riley it shows up more if you have more draw energy Obviously, it's harder to tell but why not make a specific sight tape for your broadhead? I recommend precision cut archery worth its weight in gold. I make my tack setups with that I make now I'm making broadhead sight tapes and things like that. That's my tether entry Exit know your angles lock it in I can tell you right now. This one was not a flyer This arrow was when I had one foot on the platform one knee against the tree I felt good when I had both knees up against the tree. I also mixed and matched the bridge height Close back let loose all those just kind of like practicing was able to stack them in really good now Let's work on Trajectory when there's things that look like they're in the way, but actually your arrows gonna go over and hit your target We're gonna get some practice there This was super important for me to get experience shooting out of a saddle of saddle hunted a little bit I've practiced once but I wanted to practice again So we've hiked in this mini 3d and we have some private property access that we could go to so shot some steep downhill shots And I noticed basically once my knees are against the tree or if my bridge is eye level or lower and I'm leaning back I feel real stable when my bridge is a little higher and I'm maybe off the platform only one foot Touching the platform it gets a little wobbly So just kind of experiment and see what's comfortable plus I need the practice because I'm gonna have to do a lot of that Saddling type stuff for whitetails in the dark and I want to be fast and efficient when I bring that saddle system out west Hunting wallows and elk pinch points during midday Right. I'm literally aiming at that branch, but I know that that branch is less than 20 yards The arrow is still climbing so we can clear the branch and shoot the bull right in the heart The next thing we did was we wanted to showcase knowing or understanding your trajectory in that shot I had a branch Blocking my view of the elk, but the branch was so close to me that I knew my arrow would rise over it and drop In on the elk. I think you need to find some scenarios like that if possible so you can understand your trajectory It could cost you a shot opportunity that you had and you didn't know and you neglected to pass when your arrow could have cleared That easily if you're five foot seven and under I'm in that category I don't kneel unless I have to kneel but to only get the shot lane other than that I'm gonna stay standing 99% of the time on elk. I'm way more accurate standing and kneeling actually you always think like oh I gotta get down so they don't see me if you hold still standing up. They won't see you But in case we have a shot window like this, we'll practice plus it's a steep uphill next we practice kneeling which I'm not a huge fan of as I said in the video and Then we did a another hold the bow or at least 30 seconds and shoot I will say holding a bow back at full draw with a wrist rocket is easier for me than using a handheld I'm not sure why but I think it's just because it's in the wrist and you're not like squeezing with your hands. So Practice that felt comfortable Alright, so I think I learned something I'm not sure but this bow third axis is doped in with my thumb button and I figured it would carry over and I just Broke two really clean shots at 84 steep downhill and I'm in the back of the target and then the curveball My third axis was doped. I was using a my elk shape edition Carter too simple and that lift X was dialed third axis, but apparently I put some different kind of torque into the bow when I use a wrist rocket, which I didn't account for and Essentially third axis is accounting for the type of influence you put into the bow the way you grip the torque And everyone that's why third axis can't be really adjusted by somebody else has got to be adjusted by you and you kind of have To shoot it in so at 84 yards pretty steep shot now I will say there was a pretty good wind going from right to left and but still my arrows were impacting way left at 84 yards and I was surprised by that and then I made a mistake. So my sight was turned like this towards me and so I think oh, I'll just get my sight pushed back out a little bit and Missing the elk even further left So then I brought it back to where it was and then in a little more made sure it was a tube on tube hallway Took a couple more shots a little closer. Not too much and Was drilling right down the middle So now I kind of have that third now if I switch back to my handheld I'd have to probably repeat that process But with that current bow that lift X that's gonna be kind of my elk hunting rig. I'm gonna use an index Which means if I was shooting steep uphill, I'd probably be Shooting right So this is why you want to I mean if you can change release aids and be all cute like me You better get your third axis dope. Don't take one more shot But man, I think I'm starting to group in the hind quarter from here and those were some clean breaks So I've been shooting pretty good a day. So I don't know what's up, but we might have to make a third axis adjustment That is crazy They're all left. I would not advise dialing your third axis to 84 on a mini elk If it's still set up Turn it back on. I'll risk it for the biscuit. Are you rolling? Yeah, I'm gonna risk it for the biscuit I would do this at like a place where I wouldn't lose an arrow, but I basically so I'm right-handed My say my my third axis was kind of leaning towards me. I just pushed it away for me So either I'm gonna miss way more left and that arrow is gonna be goodbye or should be 11 ring so we'll take a shot and Hate losing arrows Yay This is why you have to do this I never thought switching release aids would mess with that and I don't think it shows up till longer shots 84 up the hill this is 61 and I made a quick Adjustment I did burn an arrow. I Bent an arrow down there, but man Locked in I feeling locked in now locked in The index I was using on the video was a Scott XT But I'm probably gonna use the Carter like Mike to I have two of them So two is one a couple couple other good options is like the Scott SS. We really like that And then I really like the Stan Solix with the click But I feel like they need to make some adjustments on it because every time I put my index on it It clicks right away. I can't get it to slow down to the click I don't care how fast it breaks after the click But I don't want to put my index on and have it click right away I want to be able to get in click and then walk myself through the shot process guys I hope you're enjoying our series locked in on the next episode. We're gonna dive deep into some logistics on shelters mobile elk hunting backcountry sleep systems Hydration what food we eat in the field how we food plan how we know how many calories to take in and we're gonna talk About some of the logistics behind a truck a UTV ATV dirt bike ebike the rules Regulations what you need to know can't wait to get that one to you and then finally on the last episode of the month We're gonna do a final walkthrough on the checklist all the Oh Things that you need to keep in mind and fight. Mr. Murphy Murphy's law if you know about that Hope this series is kicking butt for you. Please comment below that you're digging it what we need to add Give it a like we love that Share it with your friends. Please subscribe if you're into our content separation is in the preparation. We'll catch you next week