Cartier stunning Creations that changed Antiques Roadshow history!

My husband gave it to me 10 years ago for our anniversary. I know it's 11 carats of sapphire, 5 carats of diamond in a platinum setting, and it's marked Couture, Couture. Now, do you have any paperwork on it or anything or a certificate from a gem lab stating its origin? When he bought the ring, they gave him an appraisal from 25 years ago, and it was listed $34,000. Okay. That's all we have. And how much did he pay for it? Less than $15,000. Okay, great. And where was it purchased? In Knoxville, Tennessee, from a estate sale, a person from the estate sale. Shaped into a graceful teardrop of deep electric blue. It's the kind of color collectors dream about, the unmistakable signature of stones mined in Sri Lanka, the historic land once known as Ceylon, home to some of the world's finest blue gems. Encircling that sapphire is a halo of diamonds, each one cut to amplify the central stones glow, likely crafted sometime between the 1950s and 1970s, when the house embraced bold color balanced with architectural precision. The Ceylon sapphires right now are bringing an all-time high for auction records. I would say for auction purposes, you would be looking at an estimate of $40,000 to $60,000. My gosh, I don't, I don't believe it. It's, yeah, fantastic. It's beautiful. Is that just for the sapphire or for the whole ring? It's, well, the sapphire really dictates the value. Okay. But the fact that it is signed Cartier does help as well. It's an egg. It's an egg. Do we know anything more about the egg? I purchased it, and I think I got two more with it. I spoke to my son, and he said he got two of them, so there was three of them. Oh, okay. Where did you acquire these? Up at an online auction, probably nine years ago, ten years ago. Wow, and do you recall what you paid for the egg? Not much, a couple hundred bucks. Okay, for the set of three, for all three, okay. Did they give you any information about these particular eggs that you were buying? So it was sort of a... They were just cute. I collect cute things. Okay. Cartier has a way of hiding grandeur inside small spaces, and this 1977 limited-edition treasure was no exception. Crafted in sterling silver and trimmed with rich 18 karat gold, the egg stands on elegant feet, wrapped in a swirling botanical pattern that glitters under the light. A nearly invisible hinge slices cleanly across its body, the kind of engineering only a luxury house like Cartier bothers to perfect. Then comes the magic. The egg opens, and inside unfolds a miniature world, a tiny frog rendered in luminous enamel, lounging among delicate jewel-bright blossoms. Those blossoms aren't random decoration. The amethyst petals were expertly carved in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, famous for its gemstone artisans, while the coral flowers trace their roots to Italian master carvers, a global collaboration, all tucked into a handheld sculpture. Only 25 of these eggs were ever created, and this one was number eight, a detail that instantly elevates rarity. If you were to see an item like this come to auction, you could reasonably anticipate an auction estimate of $1,000 to $2,000 just for the one egg. Awesome. So with having three, you could be doing quite well, and again, that's a tremendous uptick in value over what you originally paid for it. I brought a pair of Cartier diamond and platinum dress clips that belong to my mother. My mother got them from my father, who bought them from a family friend and jeweler out of New London, probably in the early 70s. She loved them and she wore them every Saturday night. She was six feet tall, dark hair, dark eyes, red lips, red fingernails, and she was always dressed in black. And so she wore them, one on each side of her dinner jacket. So they, to me, mean good times. They were really special, and when she died about ten years ago, my father gave them to me. Created around 1930 during the height of the Art Deco movement, the pair reflects Cartier at its most innovative. Platinum, once considered too stubborn to shape, became the metal of choice thanks to Cartier's groundbreaking techniques. Each clip carries the signature and serial number, proof of authenticity and craftsmanship. Together, they hold roughly 20 carats of diamonds, two commanding center stones, flanked by elegant baguettes, and a constellation of old-cut gems that glow with antique fire. Conservatively, I would say an auction estimate on the pair would be in the neighborhood of $30,000 to $50,000. They truly are museum pieces. That surprises me. I never, you know, when you love something, you don't really ascribe a value to it, so it's a bonus. I'm just happy to see them out, out in the daylight, sparkling, and my father will be so thrilled. They meant a lot to him and a lot to my mom. Well, they're beautiful. He had incredible taste. Thank you, Katherine. The best of the best. I'm gonna cry! It's really hard to believe. You have no idea how special these were. Well, they belong to my grandmother's sister, and then they were passed on to me. Your dad had an appraisal. That would have been $1990, about. For how much? He thinks somewhere around $40,000. Now, you recently had them appraised again. Mm-hmm. I had them appraised within the last year, and they appraised them at $28,000. So, were you happy? Were you disappointed? Were you surprised? Just curious as to why such a difference between the two appraisals. This is an appraisal for insurance replacement value. Each earring holds a sapphire with unmistakable depth, three carats apiece. The color is saturated, velvety, and alive. Exactly the kind of unheated sapphire that collectors covet. Cartier never compromised on gemstones, and these stones radiate that standard with every facet. Surrounding the sapphires is a constellation of diamonds, a total of six carats arranged in an elegant mixture of shapes, squares, pairs, marquises, all precision cut to frame the blue centers with maximum brilliance. If you had to appraise these again today for insurance purposes, okay, I would say that probably at retail, say in a shop, $75,000. Really? Really. Wow. Now, I could take it one notch further. If they were back in Cartier, I don't think they'd be $75,000. I think they might possibly be $100,000. Wow, wow. Yeah, that surprises me. I had a neighbor. She was an elderly woman, and she really had no family, and she was very kind to myself and my children, and she gave it to me as a gift. I never used it. I never inquired about it. It was beautiful, and I just put it away. I figured one day I would give it to one of my children. What emerges on the appraisal table is far more extraordinary than anyone expected. The purse is a masterpiece from the mid-1920s, a moment when art deco design was reshaping fashion with bold geometry and exotic inspiration. Its silk brocade glows with Persian-style motifs, remarkably preserved despite its age, a rare miracle for fragile fabric nearly a century old. Then comes the revelation. It's Cartier. Inside the frame, the name appears in block letters, identifying it as a Cartier New York creation, likely designed in Paris before crossing the Atlantic. The frame alone is a work of art, 18 karat gold forming clean architectural lines accented with white enamel. Along the borders, pink tourmalines shimmer with soft rosy light, and diamond details sparkle from the clasp. Even the thumb tab is set with tourmaline, proof that nothing about this piece was done halfway. At auction, this piece would bring anywhere between $15,000 to $20,000. Yes. Oh my goodness. Really? This is a phenomenal example, and it's in such pristine condition. That's the beauty of this, because of the silk being in good shape. I'm glad I didn't give it to one of my children to play with, to play dolls with. Really, I have one of the kids take it to school. At first glance, it looks like a sleek gold bracelet, elegant, textured, and impossibly refined. For years, that's all it seemed to be. It was left to me by my grandmother. She left with a bunch of other jewelry, and I found it in there. It quietly sat among heirlooms until its owner discovered the secret hidden beneath a tiny hinged panel. Behind that discreet door was not a bracelet at all, but a watch, a creation from Cartier's French workshops in the 1950s, when the house was producing some of its most innovative designs. This was no ordinary timepiece. Its movement was crafted by Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the finest watchmakers in the world, and engineered so that the winding mechanism sits at the back, preserving the illusion of a pure, uninterrupted bracelet. Every part of it speaks to mid-century luxury. The 18-carat yellow gold links are meticulously constructed, forming a supple sculptural band that flows like fabric. The mechanism itself is hidden, the artistry is subtle, and the craftsmanship leaves no doubt about the care put into its creation. Few examples of this design survive, and even fewer in such pristine condition. I think if it was to sell at auction, $15,000. I wouldn't be surprised at that type of number. It's stunning. It's probably one of the nicest of its type I've ever seen. Thank you so much. It's really exciting. Before the Cartier Love Bracelet became a worldwide symbol of devotion, it began as a radical idea from designer Aldo Cipullo in 1969. A bracelet that locked onto the wrist and stayed there, worn every day as a statement of commitment. But the story took an unexpected detour before Cartier ever touched it. He takes it to Tiffany, and he says, hey, I got this great bracelet I'm doing. Let's do it in gold. Tiffany says, eh, we'll pass. When Tiffany declined Cipullo's idea, Cartier embraced it, and the refined version, crafted in 18 karat yellow gold, became the iconic love bracelet we know today, complete with screws, a special screwdriver, and Cipullo's distinct signature. Well, my brother passed away in 2014, and he left them to me, and he wore this all the time in the 70s, and then he showed me this and said back in the 70s that Charles Revson gave this away as a gift to, he was advertising his makeup or perfume. It's the first time I've ever seen one with the original box. A gold electroplated bracelet created for Charles Revson, the cosmetics magnate behind Revlon. Cipullo's genius was already unmistakable. This Revson version even carries a hinge, and inside, clear markings credit both Revson and Cipullo, dated 1970 and made in England. Icons like Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor helped immortalize the design, turning it into a cultural symbol of the make-love-not-war era. If you go to replace that today, retail, and you got the box, you're looking at, I would say, $1,000 to $1,500. Oh my gosh. Yeah, for the, for the gift with a purchase, right? You bought makeup, and you got, or perfume, and you got that. Amazing, right? That is amazing. So what are these worth? Yeah. A smaller size, ladies, retail, they're around $7,500. Good night. I'm sure the men's version is at least a thousand or so more. So I would say at least $8,000. Oh my god. You know, $8,500. He would be so thrilled. He would think this is just so cool. It's, far as I know, a carved sapphire marked Cartier. I got it for a birthday one year, found it at a flea market in our area. Okay. My husband got it for me, just fell in love with it. And what did you pay for it? Some hundreds, not more than a thousand. When was that? Ten or so years ago. The stone itself is a pale, luminous sapphire, most likely from Sri Lanka, where lighter toned gems with a soft, watery glow were once favored by designers seeking delicacy rather than intensity. In the early 20th century, Cartier developed a fascination with Indian style carving, transforming gemstones into miniature sculptures. This ring captures that moment perfectly. Its sapphire top etched into graceful floral form, a blend of Eastern inspiration and Western craftsmanship. Cradling the stone is a platinum setting, enriched with small triangular diamonds that sit like tiny rays beside the central motif. A ribbon of black enamel outlines the sapphire, creating contrast and depth while eliminating the need for prongs. A sleek, nearly bezel-like embrace that reflects Cartier's refined engineering of the 1920s. I also signed Cartier. It's stamped inside, and it is a New York piece. I would say auction estimate would be between $5,000 and $7,000. Oh my goodness. Yeah. Oh my goodness. Great. Thank you. The ring given to me by my late husband, and he inherited it from his mother in 1975. I believe that she bought it when she lived in New York City. I've been told it's a carved emerald with rubies and diamonds on it. I don't know if the setting is white gold or platinum. I'm guessing the year was in the 1920s. I really don't know. At its center sits a massive emerald, easily 20 to 25 carats. Its surface is carved into delicate floral motifs, a style rooted in the Mughal tradition, where rulers once carried engraved gems inscribed with sacred text. While the stone isn't the vivid green seen in top-grade emeralds, that's exactly why it was carved. Only stones with natural inclusions were chosen for this type of work. Their internal patterns made carving both possible and challenging. In the 1920s, Cartier became fascinated with these eastern carvings and began remounting old emeralds from Indian royalty into art deco creations. This ring mirrors that era perfectly. Platinum setting, crisp geometry, and flashes of color from two ruby accents. One ruby bears a noticeable chip, and the emerald carries its own signs of wear, evidence that the piece was truly lived in, not stored away. There's no maker's signature inside, likely lost during a past resizing, but the style, materials, and overall architecture strongly suggest Cartier. A signed example would soar in value. Without that confirmation, it still remains a compelling art deco jewel. That it is worth between eight and ten thousand dollars, even in this condition. If it were signed Cartier or Tiffany, the price would be thirty to fifty thousand dollars. Wow. So I'm going to give you a task. You think that it might have been purchased at Tiffany. Try to find the original bill, because then you would have something really, really valuable. Right, if I could find that receipt. That's it. Get that receipt. Okay. My father had a jewelry store from early 1900s until about 1970, probably. I can't remember exactly when he retired. I worked in it until I was married. And the things that he wanted, we capped, and the rest of them, sold them at an auction. The first is a whimsical masterpiece. A turtle sculpted entirely from 18 karat gold. Its surface is chased by hand, giving the feet, shell, and belly lifelike texture. Gemstones create a patchwork of color. Brilliant diamonds paired with the warm, honeyed tones of Madeira topaz. Every stone is custom cut to fit the shell like a jeweled mosaic. But the real surprise hides beneath. Pressing a small button lifts the turtle's tail and reveals a watch tucked inside. An elegant trick designed for women who pinned such pieces to their coats and checked the time discreetly. This piece I feel at auction would bring $8,000 to $10,000. Oh, my. It's unbelievable. Maybe you need to start wearing it again. No way. The second piece is more dramatic. A striking art deco lapel watch centered around a richly carved emerald. Diamonds, black onyx, and fine enamel radiate around the stone. All suspended from a vintage Hastings cord once used on luxury watch bracelets. The back bears French hallmarks, confirming platinum construction and early craftsmanship. Old mine-cut diamonds provide a soft, antique gleam. It has the name of the company that probably sold it at one point in its life. At auction, $30,000 to $50,000. Si. That's unbelievable. It's worth looking into because let's say it was Cartier and we could document that. Then the price would change. It would be even higher. Higher, of course. So it could be possibly $50,000 to $75,000. I brought in a ring that I found at an estate sale a couple months ago. It was a dark room. It was a junk jewelry bin and a $5 price tag. And I just thought it was cool. So I picked it up. When I got to better lighting, I saw little markings. So I investigated a little bit further and it kind of piqued my interest even more from what I saw. What'd you see? The 18 carats was what I saw first. And then I saw the Cartier name and then also another name, which seemed Vietnamese. I looked it up a little bit and it seems like they were a designer for Cartier for a certain time. Before becoming a celebrated independent designer, Din Van worked for Cartier in the 1950s. His style was bold, sculptural, and rebellious, far from the traditional high jewelry aesthetic of the era. He liked to break rules, experimenting with clean lines, geometric movement, and pieces that could be played with. This ring embodies that spirit. At first glance, it looks like a modernist band with contrasting tones. But then comes the twist. It separates into two interlocking rings, an 18 carat white gold top section and an 18 carat yellow gold lower half. Together, they form a single striking design. Apart, they become a miniature puzzle. On the side of the yellow gold component, the inscription confirms everything. Cartier 18 Cara Din Van. Dating from the late 1950s to early 1960s, the ring represents a moment when Cartier began embracing more innovative avant-garde designers. Pieces by Din Van from this era are rare enough, but a modular shape-shifting ring like this is even more unusual. I was looking up for similar rings from Din Van for Cartier, and I found other rings like this, but not the exact same thing. And those were selling at retail for $6,000 to $8,000. Oh, wow. I would definitely put that ring in with that group because it is so unique and so different. That's quite the five dollar find. You can't beat that. That's a pretty good return. I'd never seen anything like that that unscrews. And I've seen quite a few bits of jewelry in my day. Oh, that's so cool. That's cool to know. I brought this little, I call it a Monodierre, I'm not sure if it is or not. But my mother-in-law gave it to me about 50 years ago, and her father had given it to her as a gift. Once opened, the truth reveals itself instantly. It's Cartier, and not just Cartier, 1920s Cartier, the golden age of bold, exotic art deco design. The Monodierre is a miniature masterpiece. Its chain is threaded with black onyx links, while the surface and decorative elements feature carved emeralds, carved rubies, and glittering rose-cut diamonds. These carved gems place it squarely within Cartier's most famous artistic chapter, Tutti Frutti, a style inspired by the jeweled traditions of Indian royalty. Cartier designers visited the courts of Indian maharajas, returning with ideas that blended Eastern carving styles with Western art deco geometry. This piece carries that influence beautifully. Opening the case reveals crisp French hallmarks, Cartier signatures along one rim, and the tiny eagle's headmark confirming its Parisian craftsmanship. Nearly a century old, it has survived parties, evenings out, and time itself with remarkable grace. We thought $20,000 to $30,000 at auction would be a good estimate for it. Even to the point where I found some of these similar items, not quite as nice as yours, had estimates of like $8,000 to $12,000, but sold for $30,000. So when the desire of the crowd is piqued, it really shows up when you have an item like this. And when is the crowd piqued? Well, when they see a beautiful item like that, with a great estimate on it, they go after it, and they really want to have something like that. I like it, too. Well... Maybe I'll die with it. Yeah, or keep it in the family. That's always a great idea. This is the watch I inherited around 20 some odd years ago from my uncle. He inherited it from, I believe, one of his clients. He was a financial advisor in New York City, and she left it to him in her will. And then he passed it on to me. And what do you know about it? I don't know anything, really. It's just a Cartier ladies' watch. I'm assuming 1950s, but I really don't know the year. It's been sitting in a log box for the last few years. Do you ever wear this watch? I can't get it on. I wish I could. At first glance, it looks like a refined ladies' watch, perhaps mid-century. But the truth is far more exciting. It's a 1920s Cartier Tortue, one of the earliest wristwatch designs the house ever produced. Its name, Tortue, French for turtle, comes from the gentle curved silhouette of the case, a form Cartier introduced long before wristwatches became mainstream. The case is platinum, a hallmark of high luxury in the Art Deco era, and its border is lined with rose-cut diamonds. These stones are the key to dating the watch. Rose cuts largely disappeared after the early 1920s, replaced by newer diamond styles. Here, they form a sparkling frame around the dial, capturing the glamour of the roaring 20s. While the current bracelet is a later replacement, it hardly affects the value. The original band would have been a simple black grosgrain ribbon, minimalist, elegant, and easy to restore. What truly matters is the watch head itself, which bears French hallmarks confirming it came directly from Cartier's Paris workshops. Did you have an idea of the value on this piece? My daughter and I were talking and we thought around $5,000 to $10,000. $5,000 to $10,000 was probably the correct valuation about 15 years ago. Oh, okay. But right now, I see this at $20,000 to $25,000. Oh, very nice. Oh, I like that. Very nice. My mom owned a little restaurant. It was a trolley car. Our town is pretty small. And a man came by one day and didn't have any money for food. And he asked my mom if he could have breakfast for this piece. And my mom says, how about three breakfasts? So he came three times in a row. And this is how I received it. You grew up in this restaurant. So you remember this man? Yeah, I was about probably 10 to 12. Where did you keep this? I kept it underneath my bed in a box, probably nine, 10 years in that box. The piece is a luxurious early 20th century cigarette case crafted from solid 18 karat gold. Its weight alone pushes a jeweler's scale beyond its limit. The exterior glows with alternating stripes of deep blue enamel and sleek gold, echoing the grandeur of turn-of-the-century Fabergé objects. At the center sits a platinum plaque adorned with delicate filigree and subtle rose-cut diamonds. Stones chosen not for brilliance, but for their soft, candlelit shimmer. Inside, the compartments once held cigarettes and strike-anywhere matches. An elegant accessory from a world where even everyday rituals were elevated to art. Traces of wear, tiny chips in the enamel, reveal a lifetime of use before it ever reached that diner counter. Then comes the discovery that changes everything. Faint hallmarks near the lip and a signature. Cartier, Paris. We have some issues with condition. There's some chips in the enamel on the top section here. There's some wear spots near the thumb rest, just from it being opened and closed so many times. I believe that if this was to be sold in as-is condition, it would achieve a price today of about $7,500. Oh, my goodness. As it is. It's possible to restore this box, and a master restorer could put back the enamel that's missing from it in the damaged sections. It might cost a couple of thousand dollars. In restored condition, I think the collectors would be eager to buy it at a price of about $15,000. Oh, my goodness. I never, I would have just thought $50, $75 is what I really thought. This bracelet was my grandmother's, and it was given to her by her husband after she had an accident in her kitchen and had a big scar on her arm. And so he bought her this as an estate piece from a local jewelry store in Connecticut. What she didn't know was that the piece would one day be recognized as a rare Cartier creation from the retro era, a bold design period spanning the 1940s and early 1950s. Jewelry of this time traded delicacy for drama, embracing sculptural gold, sweeping forms, and unapologetic glamour. This bracelet embodies that spirit completely. Its band is crafted in the iconic two bogus style, flexible, coiled gold, reminiscent of vintage gas tubing engineered to move like silk against the wrist. At the center sits a large fluted motif, part heart, part leaf, depending on the eye. The raised design is set with diamonds and an explosion of multicolored gemstones, citrines, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, typical of Cartier's vivid post-war palette. But the true surprise comes when the central element lifts. Hidden beneath is a watch, seamlessly concealed within the jewel-like form. Both the watch and the case were made by Cartier, confirming its status as a fully realized design, not pieced together over time. The piece is considered unique, likely one of a small thematic series, but not duplicated. At auction, I would expect that this item would bring somewhere between $20,000 to $25,000. Fabulous. Yippee-ki-yay. Yeah, you like that? Yeah, I like that. It's a very exciting piece. My mother purchased it from an estate sale in Harbor Acres, and she paid about $20 to $30 for it, and she gave it to me. And how long ago did she buy this? Like, I was a little kid, probably 20 years ago. The mirror is a stunning example of Cartier's chinoiserie work from the early 1930s, created during a period when Eastern aesthetics captivated European designers. The technique used here is laque burgote, a highly intricate craft that involves carefully inlaying slivers of iridescent mother-of-pearl into deep black lacquer. Each shard catches light like a tiny fragment of moonlight on water. At the center of the design is a serene riverside scene, delicate trees, a flowing shoreline, quiet architecture, rendered with astonishing detail. It sits inside a scalloped gold frame that feels like the edge of a fan or an opening window, inviting the viewer into this imagined landscape. Chinoiserie pieces from Cartier were produced in small numbers, and even fewer have survived in such pristine condition. The craftsmanship here is unmistakably high-level, the lacquer still luminous, the inlay tight and intact, the design untouched by time. Collectors compete fiercely for art deco objects that combine luxury materials with cross-cultural inspiration, and this piece hits every mark. And at auction, I think you'd be looking at an estimate of $8,000 to $10,000. Wow, great. So, fun to see. Yeah, yeah, it's awesome. My very favorite aunt gave this to me. She wore it every day. She gave it to me in about 2007. Growing up, I heard that her married lover gave it to her. And so, my mother absolutely hated the piece. Upon her death, I read her diary. And it stated that she found this piece at a jewelry store and went to the bank, asked for a loan, said, what will you loan me? I have no assets, but I have an honest face. And the bank officer loaned her $250. The necklace cost her, I believe, $257. So, she did buy it herself. The romance of the necklace doesn't end there. Examined closely, specialists were stunned, not just by the name Cartier stamped on the clasp, but by the extraordinary quality of its materials. The Jadiet pendant, luminous and cool, almost certainly dates back to the 19th century, carved in Burma or China long before Cartier transformed it into Art Deco jewelry around 1920. The vivid green, rich, fresh, and nearly untreated is the kind that collectors chase across continents. Seed pearls, once used for court pendants in Imperial China, form delicate accents. Tourmaline, likely older than the pendant itself, appears in a frame of platinum and diamonds. Everything about the construction points to Cartier's mastery. Impeccable materials, refined geometry, and a serial number that anchors it firmly to the house's archives. An earlier appraisal from 1977 valued it at $15,000. The pendant itself does have some white inclusions. There are a few white highlights, and that does diminish the value. The tourmaline is wonderful quality, likely platinum set with diamonds. There's a consensus that in a retail setting, it would be $50,000. Really? Amazing. For an insurance value, $75,000. Speechless. Just speechless. I brought a watch that belonged to my great aunt. We found it in a jewelry box after she passed away, and we never saw her wear it. A mystery from a great aunt's belongings. But once placed on the appraisal table, its identity became unmistakable. An exquisitely crafted Cartier timepiece from the mid-1920s. Cartier watches of this era were assembled like miniature machines, engineered with precision far beyond their size. This example is built in a sandwich construction. Multiple layers of metal fastened tightly together with screws, designed to protect the delicate movement inside. Remarkably, all three sets of markings survive. Two for the case's manufacture, and one for the movement. On most watches of this age, daily wear would have erased at least one. Then comes the detail that steals attention. The enamel. A deep, vivid blue wraps the case, contrasted by crisp numerals that frame the dial with Art Deco confidence. The effect is bold, yet refined. A look rarely seen even among Cartier collectors. Though it was long assumed to be a ladies' watch, its proportions and style reveal the truth. It was made for men. Over time, it likely underwent maintenance, including a refinished dial and a replaced band. Originally, it would have carried a black strap to complement the enamel's intensity. Even with these updates, the watch stands as a striking example of Cartier's early wristwatch artistry. Dial has been refinished, and it probably had a black original band. A watch like this, even with the dial being refinished at some point, probably of a value on a retail level of about $15,000. Oh, I'm amazed. This is a beautiful watch. Thank you. It's my great-grandfather's watch, and because we have the same initials, it sort of has come down to me through the family. Do you have any idea where the watch came from? I have no idea. Was he someone who traveled to Paris? There's a good chance. At first glance, it looks understated. A slim, elegant gold watch housed in its fitted box, personalized with an enameled monogram on the back. But Cartier never specialized in the ordinary. During the early 20th century, the house helped shape the modern wristwatch, designing pieces that were not only stylish but impressively thin. And thin watches rarely contain complications. This one does. Hidden inside its 18-carat French-made case is one of the most challenging mechanisms ever created, a minute repeater. By pulling the slide along the side, the watch is designed to chime the time, striking once for the hour, again for the quarter, and then for the minutes. Packing such a mechanism into a slender case required extraordinary engineering, achievable only by the finest Swiss workshops working for Cartier. Though the watch no longer chimes on command, it needs cleaning after eight decades. The complication remains intact. Its rarity lies not just in the repeater, but in the combination of elements. Cartier Paris, ultra-thin design, personalized enamel, and a movement built when every watch was hand-finished. A typical minute repeater is valuable. A Cartier minute repeater from this era enters another league entirely. Were this in an auction, I would expect to see a presale estimate in the range of $12,000 to $18,000. That's great to know. I got this at an auction back in the middle of the 70s, and it was early in the evening, and I got the bid. And what did you pay? $250. What she purchased was a Cartier Paris creation from around 1960, part of the house's era of bold, character-driven animal jewels. Cartier had a particular gift for bringing creatures to life in precious metal, and this lion, a symbol of strength, pride, and charisma, is a perfect example of that imagination. The brooch captures the animal mid-expression, stylized yet unmistakably regal. Diamonds shimmer across its mane and face, arranged in crisp pavé that radiates under the light. Then comes the feature that steals the show, a single emerald carved into a smooth shape forming the lion's nose. Unusual, striking, and unmistakably Cartier, it adds a punch of vivid green to the warm glow of the gold. Pieces like this were never made in large numbers, and the Paris mark indicates the height of craftsmanship. Despite its playful size, it's a luxury statement miniature, part sculpture, part jewel. Today, animal-themed Cartier brooches have become highly collectible, especially those with character and color. At auction, this lion commands a far higher roar than the price once paid. And today, if you had to buy it at auction, you'd be raising your hand upwards of $6,000. Oh, my Lord! That's right. Some jewelry is valuable for its materials, some for its stories. This ring carries both. In the mid-40s, the actress Constance Bennett came to Montgomery, Alabama. She was visiting Tallulah Bankhead in Montgomery. Okay, famous people. And she went into one of the jewelry stores in Montgomery, and she saw an emerald ring that she wanted, and she asked the jeweler if he would trade this ring for the emerald, and he did. And after she left, the jeweler called my grandmother and said, I have a ring here I think you would be interested in. So she went and looked at it and was interested. She went home and told Granddaddy that there was a ring at the jeweler that she would like to have. Granddaddy looked at her and said, it's not your birthday, it's not our anniversary, and it's not Christmas. I am not buying you a diamond cocktail ring. But what did he do next? Well, the next morning, at the breakfast table, Granddaddy asked her if she was going to the club for lunch. And she said, yes, she was, and he tossed this across the table to her and said, well, here's something for you to wear. That's a good man. I think so. The jewel is pure art deco elegance. Crafted in platinum by Cartier-Perry, it features a striking bullet-shaped diamond, brilliant white, beautifully cut, and unmistakably luxurious. Its interior bears Cartier's Paris hallmark and serial number, placing it firmly within the brand's golden age. Pieces linked to Constance Bennett have surfaced before and been authenticated, so the provenance here is entirely plausible, adding charm, intrigue, and a touch of Hollywood history. A ring like this today in this market could easily sell for somewhere between $15,000 and $20,000. Oh, how wonderful. That's great. I don't know what your grandfather paid for it, but whatever it was, it's more money than he did. Well, I think so. And we don't know what the emerald was worth when it was traded. Well, this is worth a lot to me. I really appreciate it. Wear it in good health. Thank you. I will. They were my former spouse's mothers. He was given the jewelry upon her death, and in turn, he gave them to me during marriage. Oh, nice. And when we divorced, he wanted me to keep them because he thought that there was no one else that he would rather have have them but me. The pieces themselves are classic art deco Cartier, created during a period when symmetry, bold color, and streamlined geometry defined high fashion. What makes this pair special is how perfectly matched they are. A mirrored duo meant to be worn together on either side of a jacket or dress, framing the wearer with subtle luxury. Each clip features rich coral carved into geometric forms that glow with soft, warm color. Surrounding the coral are sparkling single-cut diamonds, stones favored in the 1920s and 1930s for their delicate, star-like shimmer. Everything is set in platinum, the metal Cartier championed for its strength, purity, and ability to hold clean architectural lines. Despite their age, both clips remain in remarkable condition, retaining the crisp edges and vibrant colors that define top-quality art deco jewelry. Their aesthetic is timeless, bold but refined, striking yet wearable, unmistakably Cartier. I think a nice auction estimate would be about $10,000 to $15,000. Really? Yeah. Really? Wow. That's wonderful. It was a gift from my husband, and I know very little about it. I've worn it as a pin on a coat or a jacket. Shaped like an oversized sculptural take on a safety pin, the piece is crafted entirely from 18-karat yellow gold. The form is playful yet unmistakably sophisticated, embodying the confident sculptural style that defined jewelry in the early 1940s. At one end sit two deep blue cabochons of lapis lazuli, polished into smooth domes that glow like miniature planets against the warm gold. A closer look reveals clues to its origin. A tiny eagle's head hallmark, almost invisible to the naked eye, confirms its French manufacture. Inside, engraved neatly along the curve, are the words Cartier Paris, followed by a sequence of five serial numbers. For vintage Cartier collectors, this combination is the gold standard of authenticity. Signature, origin, and production number all present and aligned. Despite its whimsical silhouette, this pin is pure high jewelry, rare, refined, and unmistakably Cartier at the height of its Parisian creativity. Pieces like this don't appear often, and when they do, they attract serious interest. I would say at auction, $6,000 to $8,000. You're kidding. Wow. I love him more every day. I inherited it from my father because he inherited it from his great-auntie. We were told it's a Cartier bracelet, but I don't know. It's beautiful. I love it. Reminds me of her. When she passed away, somebody had it appraised for the estate, and I believe they appraised it around $9,000. I remember them saying something about mind-cut diamond. The bracelet is a pure expression of Art Deco Cartier, crafted between 1925 and 1935. Its silhouette tapers gracefully, built from geometric sections and subtle curves engineered to sit perfectly on the wrist. Despite its flexibility, the top arc remains beautifully formed, a sign of exceptional design. Across the entire piece are 180 diamonds, meticulously set. Larger stones anchor the design, two around 3 quarters of a carat each, others around half a carat. The remaining diamonds create a shimmering lattice of old mine and old European cuts, giving the bracelet the warm, romantic sparkle of early 20th-century gems. Then comes the confirmation. The interior bears Cartier's correct block letter signature for the era, along with tiny in-house serial numbers, Cartier's fingerprint. Even the back of the bracelet is a work of art. Each opening behind the stones is sawn and polished by hand into perfect squares, allowing light to flood through and keeping the piece easy to clean. Total diamond weight, approximately 15 carats. If I had to appraise this right now today for auction, I would say that this bracelet, easily, because of the Cartier name and the strong Art Deco influences, $40,000 to $60,000 at auction. No way. $40,000 to $60,000. That's crazy. For insurance purposes, again today, this would insure for $100,000. No. It would insure for $100,000. Right. Okay. Seriously? Cat got your tongue? No way. Thank you, Aunt Blanche. Thank you. I love it. It's awesome. This was my mother's. She passed a couple of years ago, and I just brought it with me to see if it was worth anything. Created in the 1940s, this piece is part of Cartier's V for Victory campaign, designed during World War II when patriotism surged and luxury houses like Cartier found subtle ways to support the Allied cause. The V shape was more than design. It was a symbol of unity, strength, and hope, seen on posters, brooches, and wartime jewelry. Cartier transformed that emblem into a functional wristwatch alternative that clipped elegantly onto clothing, allowing the wearer to check the time discreetly. Despite its compact size, the craftsmanship is unmistakably Cartier. Clean lines, refined proportions, a crisp, readable dial, and the signature precision of one of the world's most respected watchmakers. These clip-style watches were never produced in large quantities, and few survive today in such intact form. Because of its rarity, wartime history, and the Cartier name, this little watch commands more value than its size might suggest. A watch like this probably would auction Oh! Well, my niece will love that. That'll help pay for her tuition. What can you tell me about these extraordinary Art Deco cufflinks? I've had them for about 10 years and bought them from a friend of mine in St. Louis who used to sell jewelry, and I've worn them off and on since that time. Made in France around 1925, the cufflinks carry a set of registry letters B-T-S-G-D-G, the French patent marks that confirm this was the first mechanism of its kind. Cartier introduced a new way of fastening cufflinks using a clever folding arm that swings into place, slips cleanly through a shirt cuff, and locks securely. It's a small innovation, but one so elegant that countless makers copied it in gold, gold-filled metal, and even costume pieces. But Cartier's originals stand apart. Each cufflink is crafted in platinum and bears the unmistakable French dog's head hallmark. The serial number, 02423, is significant too. Early French numbering systems rarely included a leading zero unless the piece was part of a notable production sequence. This detail helps authenticate the cufflinks as true early Cartier work. The gemstones complete the picture, sparkling single-cut diamonds set with precision and smooth cabochon sapphires glowing in deep blue. Every detail is crisp, symmetrical, and unmistakably art deco. How much did you pay for them, do you remember? I think like $500 when I bought them. In the market today at auction, I would estimate them $5,000 to $7,000. That's great. What do you think? Yeah, that sounds good. Do you really have to thank your mother for this beautiful miniature box? I do. She and I just came across it a couple months ago when she actually gave it to me, but she purchased it for me when I was a small child at a tag sale. How long ago was that? 25 to 30 years ago. Your mother's been holding on to this about 25 years before she gave it to you? Yeah, well, we kind of forgot about it. We were going through her jewelry a couple months ago, and I took it out, and I said, hey, this is nice. Why did she buy this? Well, I am her only daughter, and it was such a girly thing, and we were at a tag sale, and she thought I'd like to play with little pretty things. The compact wasn't merely decorative. It was Cartier, signed on the inside lid with the trio of cities that defined the brand's global prestige, Paris, London, and New York. Instantly, the playful object became a piece of high craftsmanship. Its exterior is a small work of art, deep green enamel panels surrounded by delicate red enamel floral motifs, each bordered by immaculate white enamel. Despite being handled as a toy, the surface remains remarkably pristine. Inside, a mirror, clouded with age but replaceable, reflects Cartier's attention to detail. At the center sits a stunning surprise, a natural ruby glowing warmly beneath the lid. Surrounding it are tiny rose-cut diamonds chosen for their soft, antique sparkle. This compact would once have lived in the purse of a wealthy woman in the early 20th century, a symbol of refinement disguised as a daily accessory. And your mother paid $3 for it, something like that? Something along those lines. She said she wouldn't pay much because it was going to be something I was going to play with. Okay, so a Cartier box like this at auction can easily go for anywhere from $3,000 to $4,000. Wow. It's a great present that your mother gave you. It sure is. Thanks, Mom. You can't have it back. My dad was from a farming community in Peebles, Ohio. My relatives moved there in the late 1700s. He hated the farming industry. He hated being a hick, and he went to the one gentleman in town that taught him how to be more refined. He came out to San Diego in 1931 or 2, when he was 16 or 17, liked the city, went back, told his brothers and his parents he was moving there, went to the gentleman that had polished him a little bit, and the gentleman either gave him this set or he purchased it. We don't know exactly. The set is pure Edwardian Cartier, crafted around 1915, when men's formal accessories were engineered with the same artistry as fine jewelry. Made in France and later brought to America, each piece is executed in 14-carat gold with touches of platinum. The carved rock crystal panels glow like frosted ice, each centered with a rose-cut diamond that flickers softly under the light. Above the diamond sits a sugarloaf sapphire, a rounded deep blue gem carved to perfection. The set includes cufflinks, shirt studs, and vest buttons, each designed with small hooks and fittings that would lock securely into a gentleman's evening attire. These weren't just accessories. They were statements of refinement, worn at a time when dressing formally was a ritual. The original presentation box still survives, marked Cartier, Paris, London, and New York, a detail collector's prize almost as highly as the jewels themselves. Now, this is the top of the line. Really. Did he ever wear this set? Yeah, he wore it all the time in the 40s. He liked to dress up. He had tuxedos, and he would wear it. In a luxurious retail setting, this set would bring $12,000 to $15,000. At an auction, it could go even more. Really? Yes. This is absolutely fabulous. My dad would be really, really pleased. What I brought in today is a Cartier ladies' dress watch with seated pearls and diamonds. I think the circa is 1920s, but I'm not sure. This watch was inherited by my mother, and my grandmother purchased it in Baltimore between 1950 and 1960 from a friend of hers. My grandmother was a great horse lover and went to the racetrack a lot, and I think her friend actually might have placed a bet that didn't go so well, and he was looking to sell the watch. He needed the cash. Do you know what she paid for it back then? I think she might have paid somewhere between, I think, $1,500 and $2,500. For years, the family believed it was Cartier, and a visit to the brand in the early 2000s confirmed it was almost certainly authentic, but full verification was costly. Today, the watch finally reveals its secrets. The case provides the first proof. Inside, engraved clearly, is Cartier Paris. The bracelet is platinum, threaded with natural pearls wired together in delicate strands, once harvested from the Persian Gulf. Old, mine-cut diamonds frame the dial, and even the rose gold deployant buckle bears matching numbers and French hallmarks. Every component feels deliberate, luxurious, unmistakably Cartier. Then the twist. The movement inside the watch isn't original. At some point decades ago, someone swapped it out and refinished the dial so the watch could continue being worn. For collectors, those details raise concerns. But then comes the miracle. Inside the pouch the owner brought, tucked away almost as an afterthought, was the original dial and the original movement. Both signed Cartier. Everything needed to restore the watch back to its authentic 1920 form survived. What are your feelings about how much it may be worth? You know, I really have no idea. Today, if this came up to auction, it would be $50,000 to $70,000. Would it really? It really would. I can't believe it. My mom's going to be thrilled. That's unbelievable. I suppose if you were going to sell it at auction as it sits right now, with all the parts, I would say $40,000 to $60,000. Right. That's incredible. You brought us a travel clock today, a very special kind of travel clock. And it belonged to your grandmother? She traveled across the United States from San Francisco to New York and traveled all over Europe with her husband. Well, travel I suppose was a bit more luxurious back then. It was. This was a little more relaxed. At first, it looks like a simple, well-made travel accessory. But when the twin doors swing open, a gleaming gold clock emerges, an unmistakable creation from Cartier, the master of art deco luxury. In the 1920s, Cartier wasn't just making jewelry. They were crafting exquisite objects that blended function, beauty, and imagination. Many collectors call these pieces confections because they feel more like delicacies than everyday items. This clock embodies that spirit. Its form is inspired by chinoiserie, a style influenced by Asian art that swept through European design in the early 20th century. Cartier embraced that trend with incredible subtlety. And here, the Chinese-inspired motifs frame a distinctive dial design reserved exclusively for their clocks. Even the bottom of the gold housing carries the Cartier signature, a reassurance in a market full of imitators. Miniature art deco Cartier objects are passionately collected today because they're rare, personal, and often singular in design. This one checks every box, originality, craftsmanship, condition, and provenance. If you went to sell this, you would probably realize something between $10,000 and $15,000 for it. Yes. No. It's not possible. It's possible. Cartier is very, very special, and that's one of the reasons why we get so concerned about fakes. But this is absolutely genuine and one of their wonderful designs, and I'm so happy I get a chance to see it today. Thanks a lot. I can't believe it. I absolutely can't. That's incredible. Thanks for watching. If you want more incredible finds, check out our video on the most stunning pendants ever seen on Antiques Roadshow. And don't miss our deep dive into rare jade masterpieces that blew everyone away. See you in the next one.