You Should NEVER Have to TUNE FIXED BLADE BROADHEADS!

The Technology of Old Crossbows
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You Should NEVER Have to TUNE FIXED BLADE BROADHEADS!
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Hi, I'm Chris with Afflictor Broadheads and today we're going to talk about why
you should never have to tune your fixed blade broadheads. Stay tuned.
Okay, so today we are going to talk a little bit about why you shouldn't have to tune your fixed
blade. Now of course there's some catch 22 in there and I'm going to get into some detail
explaining. But really, if you have a properly tuned bow, a properly tuned arrow that is matched
to your bow, you should not have to fuss with tuning your broadhead. It should go where you
want it to go. Now you may have to make some micro adjustments here and there, but you should not
be seeing that you're a foot high and eight inches to the right. If that's happening,
then the first thing you probably need to do is check your bow, check your arrow, check your spine,
really get to know your equipment a little bit better before you decide to move your rest or
make some major adjustments. So let's break that down into a little bit of detail and first talk
about the importance of your bow. So when you look at your bow, is your bow in tune? Is it in time?
Are your cams set properly? Is it square? Is your string square to your sight? Is your
knocking point square as well? So those are good considerations to look at with your bow.
When you add the arrow to that, what is the spine of your arrow? Is it proper for your draw weight?
Is it going to perform the way you want it with the grains that you have selected to put at the
end? Have you made any other major adjustments with FOC or anything like that? Arrow selection
is definitely key when it comes to fixed blade broadheads because what your broadhead wants to
do the second it comes off your riser, no matter what platform, is your broadhead wants to act as
a rudder. It wants to catch wind. It wants to do what it wants to do and you're depending
on your arrow to straighten that out. So a properly tuned arrow that is shooting straight
will save you from having to monkey around with making any major adjustments. So let's talk a
You want to make sure that your arrow is cut square and that your insert is properly in the
arrow. You can put a field tip on and do a little spin test on palm of your hand or on the kitchen
table, whatever you want, to make sure that at least your insert is properly inside your arrow
and that it is balanced. It's very important. You should also do that with your broadhead. Screw it
in. Give it a spin. Make sure that everything is true and that you're not having any problems with
wobble or anything else. Now you can have several different problems. First, your broadhead may not
seat properly into your insert. That's something you need to check. Or the broadhead itself may
need some micro adjustments as far as how is the tip put on your broadhead. Is it a screw in? Is
it insert? Is it a solid fixed blade? Then you don't have to worry about it. But there could be
some other micro adjustments that you need to make at this end before you worry about making
any major adjustments to your bow. So again, make sure your arrows don't have any flaws or damage
if you're shooting aluminum. Spin them. Roll them. Test them. Especially you guys that are shooting
aluminum crossbow arrows. I know that they're still really popular, but that crossbow is really
pushing a lot of heat. And even in your targets on these high speed crossbows, if you're shooting
aluminum, you may see some inconsistencies. And you'll see it when you're target practicing. You
know, you got two or three arrows that are hitting the mark and one's way over here. That arrow is
probably bent. So just give it a detailed check. And if you have consistent problems with aluminum
bolts, then maybe you want to switch to, you know, a heavyweight carbon arrow instead. Something to
give you some other options that you're not going to have to worry about dealing with a bent arrow
because it's going to screw up your accuracy, especially on the fixed blades. So like I said,
when it comes to getting a fixed blade to fly right, you need to be more concerned about your
arrow first. If your arrow does not have the right spine, it's flexing weird, it's coming off
of your string, and it's not properly noctuned, and you're wobbling left or right or up or down
coming off of the riser, that is going to enhance the effect of your fixed blade broadhead. So when
you release this off the riser before it's even gone, this already wants to catch air, your fixed
blade. So when you imagine your fixed blade broadhead, no matter what you're shooting,
you're going to see some things that will drastically enhance that. The size of the
As you can imagine that coming off a bow, it's already starting to twist. This is the first thing that's
hitting air, and then out comes this, and what's your fletching do? Your fletching has to correct
all the mistakes happening at this end. So if you're having a tremendous amount of problem,
one of the other things you can look at is your fletching. So fletching is a good indicator of
being able to properly balance your arrow to get it to correct itself. It doesn't have to correct
itself if you're shooting most mechanicals and even field tips because there's nothing down here
that's going to catch wind or act like a rudder. Now all of a sudden you're depending on your fletching
for your stability to balance everything out, to straighten it out before it gets to your target.
So if you're continuing to have a little bit of problems with your fixed blades, and you have the
right arrow shaft, and you're tuned to your bow, you might want to look at your fletching. Maybe go
to a longer fletching or a fore fletching. A lot of guys will, you know, increase if they're shooting
a really big fixed blade broadhead and still having some issues, they'll go to really long
veins, sometimes even feathers, because that tends to balance things out a little bit better.
I will caution here, a lot of guys you will read will highly suggest helicals. And while helical
fletching is really good, if it is too steep of a helical, it really creates issues with your
fixed blade broadhead. So be very cautious when you're messing around with helicals. Try just a
slight helical at first and you can gradually increase a few degrees. But the crazier steep
the helical is, at least in our testing, the more crazy thing that arrow seems to do, because as it's
spinning faster and faster, depending on the type of fixed blade broadhead you have, it wants to
catch even more air and run errant and do crazy things. And you can even see where people have
missed targets. So even though helical has some major benefits, just be careful that it's not
too steep or too crazy, because you could be setting yourself up for some more problems.
All right, so let's get down to what do you need to do if you have to tune your fixed blade
broadhead. So really there's nothing that you're going to do to the broadhead itself. It all is
based on orientation. And trust me, in all the testing that we've done, if your bow is in tune
and your arrow is in tune and matched to your bow, this is not going to be an issue. You don't have
to worry about lining everything up and are my blades lined up perfectly with my fletching.
Although there is some help to that, and here's the help. You should always have your fixed blades
oriented the same way on all your arrows, so they are all catching wind at the same point, same time,
and flying the same way. So what I mean is, it is a very good idea to index your fixed blade broadhead
to your shaft, your fletching, however you want to do it, but make sure that it's consistent on all of
your hunting arrows. So if you're lining this up and you go ahead and you adjust your insert and
heat it up and twist everything over so you're lined up, just make sure it's the same on all of
your broadheads. If everything's in tune, doing this isn't going to be your savior for improving
your accuracy, but it is going to greatly improve your consistency. So having that consistency across
all your arrows is key, and I'm sure that any of you that are shooting more than a few arrows
at a time know that always seems to be one arrow that's doing something goofy. If you inspect that
arrow, most often you will find it's a problem and there's a problem with it, and if you can't
see it on the outside, sometimes it's as simple as when somebody glued the insert in, there's a ton
of glue laying on one side or a big glob of glue somewhere that you don't know. Same thing with your
knocking point or your knock. So there's a few little key minor things that you can
look at, but orientation, lining your blades perfectly with your fletching, if everything on
your setup is cool, is not the concern. But having it done consistently across the board so they all
match each other will be a huge help to you. If you have any questions, you can drop them below
or you can get on our website at afflictedbroadheads.com, ask us anything you want at any time or give us a
call. And while you're here, give us a thumbs up and a like and make sure you subscribe for more videos.
Thanks for watching.
