Stainless-steel Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518

Antique Clock
13 followers
Oct 23, 2025
Only four examples of the stainless-steel 1518 are known. This November, the very first returns to Phillips as part of Decade One (2015–2025), the landmark auction celebrating 10 years of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.
It is not just any steel 1518, but the very first one ever made, identified by the digit “1” engraved underneath the case number. This exact watch last appeared on the market in November 2016 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: FOUR, where it achieved CHF 11,002,000 – a record-breaking sum that made it the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction at the time and the first to break the eight-figure barrier.
I don't even know where to start. Normally, it's easy to share with you
everything that goes through my mind and through my heart when talking about a watch.
The Stihl 1518 by Patek Philippe is something very different. In fact, it's now at least the
third time that I'm having an encounter with it and every time I'm literally having heartbeats
and butterflies in my stomach. It is the world's first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
made by any manufacturer in series. A bold move by Patek Philippe as just at the beginning of
World War II, they launched such a courageous undertaking. It is pretty much the founding stone
for everything that Patek Philippe and many other manufacturers have done since when it comes to
perpetual calendar chronographs. How many products do we actually know that 80 years later
conceptually, aesthetically are still produced in a more modern variant? Why is the Stihl 1518
so mythical? The case design, though clearly a 1518, is actually radically different from the
metal versions. Patek Philippe asked a different case maker to make these cases, Croisier. The
result is that, as far as I'm concerned, you have much more presence, you have a sportier,
more masculine look. It seems bigger, it seems more muscular, I think very much befitting the
Stihl case material. At the same time, with the Stihl hands, the Stihl numerals on the dial,
everything is very much monochrome, monochromatic. In this book here that most of you
collectors have, the Stihl Patek Philippe Bible written by John Goldberger, this example here,
number one, has been disassembled and meticulously photographed for this book.
What really amazes me is how, back in the 40s, artisanal manufacturing and the craftsmanship
when this watch was put together. It is horological culture at its absolute highest,
highest level. It's museum quality. Actually, let me be fair, I don't know of a single museum
that has a stainless steel 1518, not even the Patek Philippe Museum. These watches have always
been the end game at any given moment in watch auctions, and since wristwatches are considered
works of art, and have always been the absolute highest level a collector could aspire to.
With four pieces known, this is an opportunity that should not be underestimated by
the community. I think it's actually quite amazing that already a decade, and a decade
is nearly a generation in watch collection. A decade later, those who either were underbidding
it or those who were not yet focusing on such watches are given a second chance.
