Harley V-ROD Gets Go Fast Parts And Dyno Runs For Build Off!

In this week's episode, we loaded up the V-Rod and brought it out here to Greenville, Ohio. We have two days that we're going to spend out here at Fitzgerald Motorsports. We're going to get some initial dyno runs and set our baselines. Then we're going to pull the engine, put in new cams, new injectors, couple other little things, put the engine back in the bike, get it back on the dyno, see what our increases are and then we're going to head back east. But let me introduce you to the crew that's going to help us out. Scott, this is the man. Scott Fitzgerald is the V-Rod. I'm going to call you a guru. We'll go with guru, not God. I mean, look, there's V-Rod stuff everywhere. Everywhere you look is V-Rod stuff. And we got Tommy, Scott's mechanic. Good to meet you. Dude, good to meet you. We are going to have a ton of fun in the next two days and we're going to get a lot of work done. Let's see what we can do. What kind of numbers are we going to get out of this thing? I'm going to go 131, 133. I would love it if that happens. What's your guess? Over 130. Over 130? There you go. Okay. I think I'm going to stick in that 132 range because they know what they're doing and I don't. So I'm just going to say what they said. All right, man. Let's get the crane and get this party started. Let's do it. First thing we need to do now we have it up on the dyno is we want to get everything warmed up. Yes. And part of that is we need to check tire pressure to make sure that we're running correct tire pressure. Right. If it's too low, we're going to create too much heat. We're going to get some... And if it's too low, I guess we're going to get some false reading. Too much. False reading. So the... Okay. 40 PSI is what we want to do. Okay. So we're using portable. It's easy breezy. Oh, hold on. Hold on. I got... I brought my own. My bad. I brought mine. You can... Okay. Put that one aside. 10-4. These things are fantastic. I have a small one, which is the X9 Pro and I keep that in my tool roll. You guys saw that in the Samurai video. This is the X8 Apex. I keep this one in my wife's truck along with the T8 Max. That way, I have peace of mind that she will be able to start her vehicle, not have flat tires when she's out with the kids. I also carry the big one in my truck and I actually had to use it the other day because I had a flat tire. 35. We are going to set this to 40 PSI and we hit go. It's quiet. Yeah, it is. Nice. Shuts off automatically when it gets to the preset PSI, which is a feature I really like because I think I told you guys before, when I'm going riding with the kids and stuff, I always have them get their bikes ready. They need to make sure that they have oil in the engine, gas in the tank, and tire pressures are set. I set this to like 12 PSI or so for their tires and then they can go through, get their tires set, get their bikes ready. I don't have to worry about it being overfilled or underfilled. It works super slick. We're going to put the information down in the description. Fantech's having a huge Black Friday sale. There's going to be a couple codes. Craig Pro is the code. It's going to save you 35% on the X9 Pro tire inflator. I think that's going to bring it to less than $100. And the code Craig Max is going to save you 50% on the T8 Max 4000 amp jumpstart pack. I'm happy. These things have been working out fantastic for us. Thanks Fantech for sponsoring this video. We really appreciate you. Check out the links in the description below. Now we're going to see what kind of numbers this bike's going to put out and have some fun for today. Tilt ahead. No. Like that. Like a glamour shot. It just sounds like it's missing. It sounds like it's bad gas or something. We might actually pull the max defuse and let the ECM reset. Clear. Okay. So we clear code. I'm going to check all this stuff because now it's all janked up. Yep. So I don't know if we got pins. Well, there's an easy. Yeah. Yeah, that could be it. I'm going to unplug all this stuff and we're just going to like kind of start fresh. Did you try rebooting? Did you try unplugging and plugging back in? It's like every IT guy's solution. So what we're going on right now is we're just trying to get everything set up and up to temp so we can make some runs and the bike's not running right. It's breaking up on us. Yeah. We got two codes. So we're going to look up the codes. Process of elimination. That's right. All righty. So it says that P1356 codes show no cylinder combustion, which is typical with bad plugs, plug wires, or even a wiring issue at the injectors. Okay. If I understand something about Harley's, because I've seen this quite a few times, what happens with Harley's is guys will fire them up and they'll move them from this side of the garage to this side of the garage or this, and they're on high idle, you know, they're on their warmup circuit or warmup idle. They shut the bikes down before they actually get to operating temperature. And it's really common for these bikes to foul plugs because they're never getting it up to temp to clean off the plug. True. It can happen. Once you throw plugs in, a lot of times it'll clear it up. It's either bad fuel. Bad fuel or bad plugs. Yeah. I mean, I mean, honestly, V-rods, coil packs, I think I've honestly replaced like maybe two in like 16 years of wrenching on V-rods. They don't go bad. Yeah, exactly. They don't. The horn's loose, but I don't think that's causing our issue. No, that shouldn't have anything to do with it. No headlight has nothing to do with it. No taillight has nothing to do with it. You really brought up just amazing piece right here. I do my best. You do. You do really good work. Paul Sr. Watch out. That's right. Look out, Paul Sr. We're coming for you, buddy. Yo, that dude's 75 years old, I think. I got to tell you, I wouldn't mess with him. That dude is stacked. Yeah. He looks like he's well-equipped. Yeah. He could have beat up Jake Paul. 100%. All right. So we cleared codes, unplugged that. It's like it's loping. Yeah. I won't lie. I'm getting a little nervous. We don't have a whole lot of time here in this shop, and we're running into issues just getting the bike to run right. There's nothing on the top end. No, it's like it's breaking up so bad. It should be nice and clear. I'm only doing like 50% throttle. Okay. So what we're going to do now is we're going to pull the rear coil pack, check the plugs. It's breaking up too bad. The bike's not on the top end. There's nothing there, which is weird because we didn't really mess with anything. Bike rode fine. Hey, it's all part of it. We're going to figure it out. You can't think of anything you messed with? I can't think of anything I messed with. You sure about that? I can't think of anything. Famous last words. Because I didn't pull that. The bike won't run if that's anywhere not here, like sideways, it won't run at all. Oh, is this your tip? That's your tip. PSM. So what they do is if you tip your bike over, it shuts it off. It kills. And this one's a killing spark or fuel? It kills spark. Oh, that's out. That thing was loose. This was not even torqued right. I don't even know what spark plugs those are. I don't think that's even the right plug. We use DCPs. Yeah. Not even the right plug. Unfortunately, we'll have to remove this. We'll have to yank the battery. We're just going to have to pull both of them because it's clearly breaking up. So I think your deal has become a real deal. Lithium. Look, I like this thing. It's wee! Wee! These guys are going to think I'm a goofball until the day's over. Look how white that is. How lean that is. Oh, yeah. Lean, lean. I've never seen that. I've never seen that number. I haven't either. Could be a freaking lawnmower. We're going to use the proper NGK iridium plugs. I have never in my life heard of a floor mill or be seen a floor mill. This is a floor mill. Look. You can tell because it's in the floor. Yeah. How you can tell is because it's in the floor. Right. Exactly. So you see the different color concrete here, here, compared to this. So we have this and we have this. This concrete that this machine is sitting on is 10 feet thick and it has two tons of three quarter inch rebar in here just to hold this machine. This machine will carry a seven thousandths tolerance over a 20 foot span. To put that into some perspective, that's the width of seven human hairs put together. That's a little less than two pieces of standard notebook paper on top of each other. Let that sink in over a 20 foot distance. I'm going to see if you'll let me drive it by the end of the day. We'll see. All right. So we're good there. You want to get the battery? Okay. Now you're clear. You got clearance. Clearance now. Oh, here. Look. Hold on. We got an issue. There you go. That'll work. Yep. That'll work. Okay. So we got fresh plugs. We got a fresh pigtail. Yep. We're going to try this again. It already sounds better. Sounds better. Already sounds better. Yeah. All right. We can tell right off the bat, as soon as he started it, it's running better. We had a couple of problems going on. One is we had the wrong plugs in the bike. There were the wrong plugs in the bike and they were loose. And two, we had a bent pin on the pigtail. Both of those combined into the bike wasn't running right. We still have to get a good run, but right now, as soon as he fired up, it's better. We're going to hit it and get a baseline before it puts them to go fast. Yeah. That's running a lot better. Yeah. So we'll do these two and these will be bang, bang, because I don't have to pull the clutch in. It'll kind of drag down real fast. Then he'll hit save and restart and we'll do one more and we're done. And then we're done. We'll be booming it over and draining oil. Those numbers are really, actually really good for a stock 1130 CC. So, okay. So 120, 121, happy with that 80, just under 80 foot pounds. Yeah. That's very respectful for 1130. So, okay. What we're here for. Let's get after it. I'm learning a lot today. And one of the things I'm learning is I, now I want a crane because I mean, come on, right? Next shop, Craig. Next shop. Life goals. So for you guys servicing your V rods at home, if you notice what we did here is we lifted the back end up and that's because of the drain plug is on the front side of the belly pan. Lift the back end up, get it on an angle. You're going to get more of that old oil out. If you watch the last video, when I drained the oil, I did the same thing. So you guys doing DIY maintenance at home, that's a good tip for you. I don't see no metal, so that's a good sign. Wow. They went bananas on hose clips. She's a wheeze. That's definitely not. That's not factory. That's how bad of a problem this guy was dealing with. Whoever put this on literally put one, two, three hose clamps on that 308 rim. Okay. One, two, three hose clamps. I can start pulling. I can start pulling exhaust. Can you figure that out? Because you were touching it. Yeah. It just needs a little. The little known fact about pulleys, not just on V rods, but all Harley Davidson, these are actually powdered metal. No way. Yeah. These are not billet steel. Heat and pressure. Yes. They do go through a machine phase, but it's actually powdered metal is how these are produced. Like a glove. And that can go right in the chucket bucket. One of the neat things, just looking around at some of the stuff, when you're in a situation like this, Scott's got going on and he's specializing in one bike and stuff. It's just cool that he has all these parts. So, you know, you take it off this bike and you save it and you talk to it, you know, and you can just pull from them and, or even like you see something and you're like, I don't know, man, that doesn't look right. Well, you find another example laying around in your shop and you can hold them side by side and things like that. And it's, it's really neat. Here's another fun fact. Another fun fact. The V rod was the first Harley Davidson to have a plastic gas tank. This is true. And you sat on it. And it's the first Harley Davidson that they moved the location of the gas tank. This is true. Yes. Ready? Yep. Mine's about out. There we go. Yep. I got it. Yep. Got it. Yep. I got it. Actually not. It's pretty good condition. So what we're doing here is we're going to elevate the bike and we're going to slide it in this engine stand that is available, was available by Harley Davidson and their specialty parts catalog, which everybody knows in the industry is made by Kent Moore makes all their specialty tools. This is a major time saver. So when you're pulling a motor out of a bike for any of you guys that have done this before, like you know, you're doing this, you're doing this. And all that is doing is hitting your frame, hitting your covers, it's scratching and it's doing whatever. What this is going to do, it's going to allow the motor to sit right down on that stand. There's a little rollers underneath. I think we're just going to pivot it to the side and it's going to pull right out. That way we're not slamming our freshly painted covers into the frame, our fins into the frame. This is the way you want to do it. Well, I ain't got no room to move it, but if not, grab this, hop down and get a ball. Did you get it broke loose? Yeah. Just grab a ball now. So a lot of people make a L fading mistake on that particular bolt. They'll go in with a ball and try to break it. And it sees so much heat and it's oxidized and it has patched Loctite on it. And using a ball, as you well know, is risky and rounding fasteners. Yeah. So, you know, Tommy being new on board, he did the right thing. He went in with a straight, broke it loose, and now we're going to use a ball. So we don't. Yeah. So you don't mess up the head of the. Right. That's a really good. That's a really, actually, that's a fantastic pro tip. Okay. So what he was explaining is you have ball tipped Allen wrenches and you have regular normal Allen wrenches. What this ball will allow you to do is if you can't quite get in straight, it'll give you a little bit of a radius that you can move it a little bit. Right. But what happens is, look at this. When you have a standard Allen wrench, you get all of this purchase inside the hex to break it loose. When you're using a ball end, all you have is just this little tiny surface area that you're applying force to. And 142% of the time, your tool is going to be harder than the bolt. You're going to mess up your bolt before you mess up your tool. When you're tight like that. But what he's saying is you want to use a straight Allen to break them loose before you go in with the ball out or else you have a very good chance of stripping out the head of your bolt. It's a great pro tip. So we're getting right down. We're getting down to the nitty gritty. The last thing you pull to pull a motor successfully is the pivot shaft. This is the front motor mount, which we've taken out of the way. But before you pull the front motor mount, you traditionally want to have the motor support. It's not going to hurt it. It's just going to go boop and be on an angle. So if you don't have one of these handy dandy tools, which I honestly have, I bought this on eBay brand new and I've never seen another one. So if you don't have one, obviously pancake jack, turn it this way because you hit the frame rail. We'll call it north south and you would jack it up. So you'd have support. Then you pull the front motor mount, come pull the mid pivot shaft, which is your also your motor mount. So we have two motor mounts. That's it. Yes. Yep. Top front, top front, which is here. This is this big, nasty contraption with dry rod and rubber. This is pretty, it's, it's seen better days. It's not in too bad condition, honestly. All right. Ready? Yep. Floating. Yep. And there's how you remove a V-Rod motor, folks. So we're just going to go straight into the table. Set it just like how it is. See up there at the light, you got to watch your hook. So this is good. It'll move around like easy peasy. So right now, what we've got going on, we've removed the valve covers to expose the timing events or camshafts, obviously. So we can go ahead and pull these. What we're going to do is we're going to kind of see where the motor's at this time. Just by visual inspection, you can see that the camshaft on the front cylinder is off load. You can tell that because your lobes are out. This is his proprietary Hellraiser camshaft, and it's billet versus a cast cam. What that means is anytime you hear that something's billet, it means it started out of one solid piece of metal, one chunk of metal. When a camshaft like this is produced, this is cast. All your journals and cam lobes, all these pieces are just going to be rough, pretty much just like this. So the manufacturing process goes a little something like this. They cast this part, and then it goes into the machining process. That's when your journals get machined, your oil holes get drilled or cleaned out, your cam lobes get ground and profiled. But this all starts from a cast piece. So they have a mold, they dump the molten metal in, and you come out with a cast, goes to machining, and everything gets machined. Then you have a finished part. Conversely, if something's made out of billet, it means it started as one solid chunk of metal. And it could be a square, a cube, a circle, a rod, whatever. This here would have been a chunk of metal, round in shape, about this long. And then what they do is they machine everything away from that solid bar. So everything's machined. Again, this comes out of the casting very close to its finished product. All they're doing is doing the finished machining. This here starts as one solid bar. Everything gets machined. So all the material is being taken away. Then it goes to final machining, where you get your journals done, and then your cam lobes are ground. So way stronger, way better. Anytime you can get something out of billet versus cast, it's going to be a better product. How do you know? Perfect timing. I'm glad you're back. Here I am. You're lightheaded from all that talking. A little bit. Yeah, my throat hurts. So we got the front cylinder because it was not under load. The big problem that we see when people try to do this themselves, a lot of people will come in here and they'll pull the covers off and they'll just start taking a marker. Well, I'll just mark this, this, this dot. There's no need to do that. If you completely just calm down and take the camshafts and the chains out and then get the front cylinder on the top dead center and find that, then you can just restart the timing event. Correct. So what we're going to do, we're going to roll the motor over counterclockwise. Harley, you know, and Porsche made it so, you know, the common person that, again, follows instructions and reads the manual can do this. It's not real difficult. You know, even the specialty tool, which this is from Harley, you know, it shows rotate this way. So at this point, we're going to roll the motor over and you're going to start seeing the rear camshafts because we already removed the chain from the front and we're going to get it. And you can see this one, this is your exhaust. Here's your intake and boom. See how we're at high noon. Oh, yeah. So now we're on, we're off load, right? Yep. So at this point, we can remove the cam tensioner, which is holding the chain taut. We'll take that, which will loosen it, and then we'll take out the caps. If you don't do the sequence, you run the risk of actually pulling the threads and or possibly snapping the cap more or more, more or less. You're going to pull the threads. Right. And that means you're either fixing or replacing a cylinder. Yes. We're going to carry on. Fantastic. So we're going to use our handy dandy Fisher Motorsports brass TDC pen. And now you have those marks. Yes. So I have it. Oh, look at this. Hold on. I just saw something. I'm sorry. I'm going to slow you down. Look, there's an R, right? There's an F. That's for front and rear. Same there. When this comes up, it's probably going to be right to the top of your head. Correct. That's how you know you're on top dead center. Correct. Genius. So we got to get it all the way around, which it should be right here. See how it's coming up and we're getting closer. Yeah. I need to kind of keep an eye. And now we can roll the motor backwards because we have nothing connected here. Correct. So I'm just going to go back just a little bit and you come right here and you can look. So I'm going to give you a little bit of schooling. You turning your head sideways happens and we'll screw you up. And Tommy, I just instructed Tommy this last week. You want to bend down. You do this and you're like, yeah, it looks good. And you could be off one tooth. Again, this is 9,000 RPMs, F1 piston speed results in pieces, lots of pieces, bent rods, cranks messed up, broken hearts, broken hearts, broken hearts and broken what? Wallets. So again, the biggest thing is obviously we saw this go around twice, right? And we were still not right until we went that made that third revolution. And now we're ready. So at this very instance, we are ready to install the cams. But first off, we have to properly inspect shim, valve lash. So we got to check our shims. We're going to start, we're going to spin the head so we can see it. In the sake of TV, we went ahead and pre-installed the cam gears. That's the only way you get stuff done if I'm being perfectly honest. Okay. When you're talking shim and buckets on your valve train, there's two different styles. Your shim is going to be about the size of the top of your bucket. Generally, there's a little lip around this edge. Your shim's going to sit in there. So you have your valve stem and spring. Your bucket sits on top of that. And then you have your shim here. And then your cam is going to ride on this. Essentially those, these shims is how you get your valve lash and your valve clearance. Now, the other kind of shim and bucket system is shim under bucket. These are shim under buckets and shim under buckets will give you a little tiny puck like this. It goes inside the bucket. You can see that little thing there. So now the way this is going to work, you have your valve stem and your spring. Your shim sits on top of your valve stem, just like this. Then your bucket comes on top like that. And then your cam rides on top of here, just like it would with the other. Now, the way you set these valve clearances is with the different thickness of shim. These can be fine ground, not down to the micron, but down to the thou, half thou. And then that is how you adjust your valves. So that's pretty cool. You'll see this shim under bucket with a lot of higher revving engines. And even though shims are generally always marked with their thickness, any good engine builder will tell you don't rely on the marking, measure it yourself. A couple of things you need when you're doing this, you need feeler gauges, you need a good set of mics, and you need a notebook because you're writing everything down. There's no other way to do it. What they're doing, the way they're doing this is they're leaving cam chains off. Now, what they'll do is they're going to put the caps back on. You've got to torque the caps, obviously. Then you check your valve flash. You're making notes as you're going. So, you know, if you have to increase or decrease your shim size, or if you're in spec, they're running these in, they'll torque them. They'll get their measurements, they'll do the math. And then once they have everything set, they'll get their shims lined out, get everything matched up, pull the caps back off, pull the cams back out, put the chains in, put everything back together, and then they're set to go. But this is a whole lot easier and a whole lot quicker to do it this way than to mess around with the chain and all that stuff. Just get it out of the way, get your valve flashes set, and then come back once you have all your math done and know exactly what shims, you come back for your final assembly and you know you have it nailed. We're 12 to 14 on exhaust and Tommy is telling me that we got 12 to 13 and I'm going to check it. Exhaust valve clearance is always higher than intake. And again, the reason for that is heat. Think about what's going past your exhaust valves, all your exhaust, hot exhaust gases, that valve is going to get a lot hotter. It's going to grow more than the intake valve. The intake valve is always being bathed in a cool mixture of fresh air and gas. So those stay cooler. Your exhaust valves get hotter. That's why your tolerances are bigger on the exhaust side than the intake side. Now I noticed here they're a thou bigger on a Destroyer than they are on a regular V-Rod. I'm going to take a guess to why that is and then we're going to see if I'm right. My guess is A, it might generate a little more heat. I think it's more on speed. It's really hard when something's traveling north and south. When it stops, you're still going to have that inertia that wants to expand that valve stem a little bit. And with the Destroyers being a drag bike and a built race bike, that was a production made factory race bike. It was made for nothing but going fast on the racetrack. Yeah, it had no rear shocks. It had struts. Struts, yeah, right. You are correct. It was in the RPMs. Redline on a Destroyer was in excess of 10,000 RPMs. So it looks like, yeah, done. Isn't that amazing? It is. Turn my back for two seconds. We're going to get some bolts together because you want to change the stainless. Yesterday, I spoke to you on the phone. You were like, hey, let's get some stainless hardware. Stainless hardware is great to replace in any motorcycle. But the biggest thing you have to realize with stainless, just like the steel that we took out, stainless and cast aluminum do not get along. I was taught by a mechanic from the Navy, you use grease, lubricant, ready grease, whatever you want to call it, anti-seize. Some people really believe in that. But you use it because they don't play nice in corrosive atmospheres. I don't know where this bike's going to go. You don't know where this bike's going to go. So take the time. Put a little bit of, I use red, red grease. Red tack. Red tacky grease. That's not in the manual. It's just something that I was taught and it's never let me down. I know there are going to be some people in the comment section that are going to be like, you realize when you're torquing that you're not torquing it properly because that bolt was torqued for dry application. Prove me wrong. We're going to move on and we're going to install the cam installation tools that we made probably 12 years ago. This is actually made of one solid piece of 4140 heat treated material. So this is very, very tough and not brittle. This can take 4140 is amazing material and in the heat treated form, it's very durable. Very durable. It can take a pounding for years. So we got to get the front rubber boot out. We're going to take that off so we can gain access. I can put the rear one on. So we're getting ready to hang the chains just to show kind of how easy it is to a certain degree. The chains from Harley-Davidson actually have copper links and the double and a single and a single. So the double is going to like football terms. We're going to split the post. Okay. So we're going to split the dot. So that dot will reside in the middle of that. Okay. And then we'll hang it out of the way and then you essentially want both chains to be in line splitting that dot front and rear. So we have a dot on the case right there. There. Yep. That's going to line up with this dot on the gear. Lines up with that dot on that gear. You want all three of those lined up. Before we go ahead and start the timing change to send us home. We're going to physically remove this. This is called the triple sprocket bolt. And this bolt unfortunately is righty tighty lefty loosey and the motor is going this way. So it's being counterintuitive. They would have just put a left-handed bolt. Hardly. Or put patch lock tight. Hardly. Or even a place to peen it. Yes, they would not have this problem. So what we're going to do, we're going to go ahead and we're going to pull this bolt. We're going to clean it. This is also the water pump shaft. And this is also a galley. Well, I call it the galley of oil. So oil that goes to the heads is actually sitting here in the shaft. You'll see oil pouring out of it. And what that is essentially when you're building pressure, the oil. So these don't go because there's no bearings in these heads. It's oil pressure. So they're storing oil up here. So it only has to go from here to here. Yes. It doesn't have to go from here to here. So anyway, we're going to progress. We're going to go ahead and get this removed here and we're going to clean the threads and we're going to get it going. Ah, the oil out of the valley. So again, when you pull this, you can see this bolt is really long. It's a fine thread metric. You want to clean it really well. You want to let the oil kind of drain out. You do want to use the same cleaner here that you use on here to clean this. You do want to use that and actually get in there and clean it out. So you can go ahead and apply the red Loctite and torque it to 17 foot pounds of torque. So we're going to progress and do that right now. You can see the bolt is properly been cleaned, good and dry. Doesn't have a bunch of oil residue. So we're going to go ahead and get a little Loctite on this and get this torqued and move on. So now we are ready to install cam chains. We're going to go fishing. So I'm just taking my time. You know, I am turning my head sideways, but I'm about ready to stop doing that and literally verify. So we just double check. You can see copper, copper, copper, copper, dot, dot. As they say in football, it's good. So we're going to go ahead and grab the rears. We're going to do exhaust. Our cams are clearly labeled multiple areas. E, pretty straightforward exhaust. And front and rear cams are the same. Yes. What separates them is the placement of the cam gears. As you can see, and we can show this now, you can see these are the rear. These have bosses. The bosses are in the front. The bosses are out. Oh yeah. So now we're just going to make sure I got the whole of the rear. You put the intake in first. In this instance, we've got the rear installed. It's not under load. Per the manual, any deviation is catastrophe. So we just want to give a visual check. We got intake, intake, dot, copper link. Oh. Exhaust, dot, copper link. Okay. We went ahead. I've got these pushed down. It's not very much. Now you can see the bolt's not real long or anything. It has actually has adequate room at this time. We start with the exhaust. We'll grab the chain. Keep it taught as they say. And we're going to look now. Now that the cam gear has been flipped around, you don't get the lovely EX or IN. You just look for the dot. Because again, this is the other side of the sprocket. And right there is the rear. And then this one, you kind of pick this one up out. Just kind of how you do the rear. Because it's not much room, wiggle room. You just kind of have to kind of do that. Turn it a little bit. Again, we're going to double check everything. Triple check everything. There. So right now we are essentially done. Cam timing is done. We went ahead and installed these 5.7 gram injectors, where stock is 4.84. We found with these cams and the exhaust and the tuner that we were running right around 90% to 100% duty cycle at full RPM or full tilt. You don't really want to see that. You want to see 80. Let's keep it safe so you don't burn up an injector. Let's just go ahead and keep it simple. And even with these 5.7, we're still rocking out at 70% duty cycle. Nice. So those injectors are kind of basically step two of what we're doing in the engine. Cams is step one. Injectors is step two. Tuner is step three. Exhaust, step four. We already have the intake, so we can skip that step. So when we all add all that together, we're going to have more horsepowers. Your horn's off. Hanging around where she shouldn't be. Go ahead and plug in all your sensors. Cool. Harleys are really easy to make better. You just replace all the Harley parts with other parts. Yeah, that's actually correct. So Dan, you remember when I said we were going to replace this and I think I could come up with something better? Yeah, you still think that? Yeah, I spent a little time next door at the machine shop. Did you really? And I came up with this. Oh, wow. It didn't take me long to do. Dang, Craig. It didn't take me long to do. That's some really nice tools over there. Yeah, there are really nice tools over there. Okay, I didn't have to machine it. It was already in the shelf over there. So it fooled me. I just had to find it, is all I had to do. And I found it. But tell me, tell me that's not going to make a difference. That's at least two or three horsepowers. Horsepowers. And it's in. There. It's little tiny touches like changing out these motor mounts for a far superior mount. Yeah, sure. We could have just thrown the old rubber ones back in. We have the engine out. Everything's accessible. Might as well. Now's the time to do it. I'm not going to lie. These things aren't cheap, but they're nice. They need to replace. And at the end of the day, I want somebody to have a nice, safe bike. Tighten that up. Front motor mount is... There you go. There we go. All right. Nice. Brand used. Black starter. It can't get any better. That's a wrap, Dan. Send it. You don't want to do one more thing? Oh, I know what to do. Okay, I literally stopped recording when you did that. It's hard to find good help these days. Where do you get your yard help when it signs printed? At the store down the street. Gonna need that guy's phone number. All right, ready? Ready. Yeah! Nailed it. Check this. Yeah, everything's lined back up just nice. We need one of these for the shop. This is nice. A shelf? A shelf. Yeah, but look how clean and easy this is versus the messing around we do. Those like soda syrup boxes. Right. In the back of like the, you know, the fast food, back of the Burger King. I thought you were going to say this is what we needed in our shop. Just more engines on the floor. This is like pro tip baker's dozen in this video. But here. Whenever you open up an oil jug or brake fluid jug or coolant jug and it has this stuff here on the top. What a lot of guys will do is poke their finger in and start dumping. That's all well and good. Until the one time that this seal isn't really glued that well to the jug. And what'll happen is it'll slip off and it'll go right into whatever it is you're pouring your solution, your liquid into. And that's a bad day. Like if I was pouring oil and or if I'm pulling pouring coolant and that thing went into the system. Bad day. So don't just stick your finger. Don't just peel it off. Remove it completely. All right. A little thin layer anti-seize. This is actually a pro tip for me. Any exhaust system that you install, whether it's mine, X, Y, Z, ABC factory, do yourself favor. The exhaust is going to come off on 90% of motorcycles to be able to service them. Especially a V rod. As you can see, even just to change a clutch, you have to remove the exhaust. So once you've got it off, take the time, clean rust and apply some anti-seize. So either you or the next person, the owner or the next mechanic that works on it can actually get this apart. Same thing with hardware. We anti-seize hardware that is in and around or holding exhaust on, or like you did the studs coming out of the head. Again, that's for future. Right. For future people, not really us necessarily out the gate. A little bit earlier in the video, we talked about there's a, let's see if this one here has it. Okay. This, this piece right here, this plug. That's a plug. It looks like a bolt. Right. But it's a plug. And what that plug, you pull this plug out and then obviously it's a threaded hole. This here, this is a specialty tool from Harley. It's a top dead center pin. And what you do is put this in that hole and threads in and you get your crankshaft up and this goes into that hole right there, just like that. So you can roll it up. You find that you screw this into that hole in the block and this holds your crankshaft locks your crankshaft in place at top dead center front cylinder. So that's how that works. Pretty neat. You don't see it on a lot of motorcycles. You see it in other applications a little more, but yeah, that's kind of a cool feature. So depending on what you're doing, you can bring your crank up, get top dead center front, put the pin in and you know, it's not going to move. Everything's back together, back on the dyno and our first runs before we did anything, we're at 121 horsepower, 120.7. And the other one was 121, whatever about 75, 74, 75 foot pounds of torque. If I remember correctly. Now we've got the bigger injectors. We've got the camshafts. We have the exhaust probably something else. I don't know. Definitely. We got that slave cylinder cover. That's going to add three to four horsepower. Yeah. This is going to be fun. I can't wait to see. Take your guesses, put them in the comments. Where are we going to see? We're going to go to 132 horsepower. Okay. I could go with that. The first couple of runs, you know, obviously this is new. So we're going to pull it. It'd be our initial pulls. Then we're going to clean up the data, send it back. And then the last three will be our final. We'll be our actual. Yeah. So we're going to do a couple of cleanup runs just to see where we're at. See the health, see the health of the map. I'm going to download the map. I can see everything kind of set our new baseline. We, we all know anybody knows ever build motors. You can build five motors identical and everyone's going to run different. Yep. Right. So efficiency is what we're after. That exhaust sounds so good. And I'm even wearing hearing protection. So right now we're going to just pull the data, clean it up, and then we'll send it. I don't know what I don't know. I'm about to restart the software or something. It's, it was getting wonky. We tried to do a run. It wasn't doing right. I don't know. Welcome to dynos. Well, if we quit right now, we're making a hundred and seventy one horsepower. Yeah. Load it up. Let's go. I got to turn it off. This dyno has never been like where it's making way, way more than what it's ever made. Hey, it's not you. It's the camera. Yeah. It's reading really happy. Sorry. It'd be great. Great for business. I'm not gonna lie. I mean, I'd have to be people staying at the Holiday Inn waiting for waiting for me to get work. That kind of money for that kind of horsepower all day long. Okay. The time has come. I've been waiting two days for this since I saw the machine. Richie's going to teach me how to drive a four mil. This is a 1970 four mil. Lucas five inch four mil. He just taught me all this. So this whole thing moves front, back. You're in and out of the tables, the stationary. And this machine will carry us. I think I already said it. A 7000 tolerance for 20 feet, which is unheard of. Right. Hey, if it has a steering wheel and a seat, I want to know how to drive it. So that's what we're going to do. You want me to demonstrate or you'll just coach you through it? Coach me through it. All right, let's do it. All right. So let's start off with the gear change. So we're not going to cut anything. We're just going to drive around. So we need to turn this dial where right in here says neutral. So you just dial it right around. That lights up. That's your gear changer. You press that, it changes gears. Let's hit this button here. All right, you're on. Okay, now this button here is for forward and back. Now, if you want to just keep going forward, you go this way and pull it out and it stays. I wonder though, your buttons are falling off, but they're not. That's design. Yeah, now this is only going... See, we are moving. Yeah, 11 inches a minute. 12, roughly. So we can go up kind of fast. We can grab the button. You want to do it? You can hit that button. Just push on it. Oh, yeah. Oh, we're going up now. Wow. Yeah, it goes way up. You can see the wiper line there. That's about as high as I was at yesterday. So now we can travel forward. That would be this way. Yeah, exactly. And I can either hold it or tilt it out. The bottom of it. Yeah. There you go. We can ride like this. Usually this is kind of slower feed like this. This is when you're cutting. So when you're doing this, you're kind of hanging. You're hanging out here. You're watching your spindle and... Yeah, and doing all this. And so that stops us. Yep. And if you want to go down, just like that. And then we start heading down. Yep. That's cool. Yeah, it's pretty neat. Hey, this is neat. Thank you. You're welcome. Yeah, it's fun. Very fun machine. All right, man. Thanks for letting me drive your minivan. You're welcome. That's cool. It sounds like we're ready for another dino pull. Fingers crossed. That's singing, boys. Nice work, fellas. Yeah. Nice. Yeah. Good job. Yeah. Bring it here, Richie. Bring it in here, buddy. That was fun. Let's do that again. So we went from 120 to 1, all but 35. Yeah, that's a good number. I mean, I'm not gonna lie. You know, we got cool, clean air. But no, that's... Blizzarding. Yeah, it currently is snowing, which is messed up. But no, I'm really happy with it. That's true before and after. No sugar, no spice, just... Everything nice. Nailed it. Yeah, and it's hauling. You can hear it. I mean, it's... Dude, the thing sounds fantastic. Yeah. Well, welcome to the family. That's awesome, dude. Well, there you have it, guys. In less than two days in the shop, we pulled the motor out of this V-Rod, threw some cams in it, threw bigger injectors, got it tuned, engine back in. We are making an extra 15 horsepower. I'm super pumped. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe. Have a great weekend. Dan's going to put a video here and here. Check him out. I know you're going to love him. See you later.