A Taste of Hong Kong: Chiu Chow Eats, Old Shanghai, Seafood & Fading Memories

When the British came to Hong Kong in early 1800s, they called it a barren rock with nary a house upon it. The name Hong Kong comes from Cantonese, meaning fragrant harbor. One theory is that it was the name of a village called Hong Kong, located in today's Shusan Hill off Deepwater Bay near Aberdeen. In 1841, the Hong Kong Gazette listed Hong Kong as a fishing village with a population of 200. British sailors might have mistaken the name as referring to the whole island, or perhaps the name was already used for the broader area, and later the British extended it to the name of the entire island. Having explored Cantonese cuisine in our last episode, we will turn our attention to the city's other culinary offering today. About 92% of Hong Kong's population is ethnically Chinese, and of that, around 86% trace their roots to Guangdong province. Within this group, approximately 11.5%, or about 1 million people, are of Chaoshan origin, with a distinct dialect, and are known for their unique and refined cuisine. Chaoshan is a cultural linguistic region in the east of Guangdong, about 350 km from Hong Kong. Chong Fat, the iconic Chiu Chow eatery in Kowloon City, is a legendary Da Long destination. At Chong Fat, the experience starts at the front counter, where trays of pre-cooked Long dishes are proudly displayed. Customers pick their favorites, which are then chopped, plated, and served in no time, perfect for pairing with congee or washed down with a cold beer. Rooted in the traditions of Chiu Chow immigrants, Da Long culture is gritty, nostalgic, and uniquely Hong Kong, and Chong Fat remains a beloved time capsule of this culinary heritage. Goldfish Street in Mong Kok, where goldfishes are displayed and sold in plastic bag. Chan Yee Hing began as a humble Da Long Dai Pai Dong. Opposite from Yum Cha, which is morning tea and dim sum, Da Long is late-night meal featuring an array of cold Chiu Chow delicacies. What makes Chan Yee Hing legendary is its 40-year-old master stock, a richly seasoned braising liquid that's been simmered, replenished, and reused daily for 40 years. This deep, aromatic stock is the soul behind their signature dish, Chiu Chow-style braised goose. Shrimp dumpling are made with water chestnut, baby oyster omelet. Duck eggs and potato starch are key ingredients. The duck eggs add depth and richness, while the starch helps bind the oysters and egg together, creating the omelet's signature crisp edges and gooey center. Crab dumpling are wrapped in tofu skin. Puning tofu is served with garlic chive sauce. Sichuan peppercorn and fish sauce is used in the chicken, but the star is the crispy fried pearl leaves. The noodles are made with fish, super tender. No Chiu Chow meal is complete without a bowl of oyster congee. Light yet deeply flavorful, a comforting end to a bold, flavorful meal. Satay beef, the rich peanutty sauce in tender beef, has become a beloved staples at Cha Chan Teng's in Hong Kong. Once a private club, this restaurant now specializes in home-style Chiu Chow cuisine, and was recently awarded its first Michelin Bib Gourmand. The braised goose and spiced soy marinade stands out with its robust, meaty flavor and subtle herbal warmth. Founded in 1967, Pa Lok was once considered the most established Chiu Chow restaurant in Hong Kong. While the original flagship location closed in 2024, the brand was revived by the third generation as a private kitchen in Causeway Bay. Today, we're visiting one of its branches at Elements, and we can't help but wonder, is it still living up to its old standard? While the food maintains a decent standard, it's hard to ignore that several competitors offer more satisfying flavors at a lower price. After 50 years, the beloved Xing Hing has been reborn as Xing Xing in Central, and it's packed daily with loyal regulars. Chicken and vegetables are delicately wrapped in an egg-white skin and steamed to perfection, a classic Chiu Chow dish that showcases the cuisine's emphasis on light, clean flavors and refined technique. In Kowloon City, you'll even find a Chiu Chow dessert shop serving traditional sweets rarely seen elsewhere. Choi Hung Estate, literally meaning Rainbow Estate, is one of Hong Kong's most iconic and photogenic housing estates. Known for its multicolored facade, the estate's pastel-hued blocks rise above a low rooftop basketball court, creating a striking visual that has made it a popular destination for both tourists and photographers from around the world. Currently, plans are in place to demolish and redevelop Choi Hung Estate, starting in 2028, marking the end of an era for one of Hong Kong's most recognizable public housing estates. With it, another piece of the city's collective memory will fade away. We can't leave Hong Kong without indulging in its renowned seafood. One of the best places to experience it is Lei Yue Mun, a former fishing village that has transformed into a lively seafood hub lined with fresh seafood stalls and cook-to-order restaurants. We had Shanghai Dim Sum for lunch in Wan Chai at a restaurant run by former staff of the renowned Lo Ching Hing, a name long associated with quality and tradition in Shanghainese cuisine. Later, we enjoyed a Shanghai-style dinner in Central, Stinky Tofu. Intensely pungent, but according to our friend, this was the best they've had in town. The surprise is Almond Jelly, a Hong Kong invention from the 1970s. Located on the former site of the iconic Great Shanghai Restaurant, this spot sure brought back a flood of memories. The delicately curated Chinese ham, glazed with honey, then tucked between slices of soft white bread and served alongside crispy tofu skin. Sweet, savory, and texturally layered, this renowned dish is a perfect example of Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine's elegance and indulgence. Originally opened as a pop-up in 1965, Chesa has since become the go-to destination for authentic Swiss homestyle fare in Hong Kong. Tucked inside the peninsula, the city's most prestigious hotel, Chesa charms diners with its Alpine chalet-inspired decor. The menu covers all the Swiss classics, from fondue and raclette to roasty and veal-Zurich style. And the set lunch is a genuine steal by Hong Kong standards, especially considering the refined service and timeless setting. Qilin Nunnery is a serene Buddhist temple complex located in Diamond Hill, Kowloon East. Rebuilt in 1998, it faithfully follows traditional Tang Dynasty architecture, featuring elegant wooden structures constructed without a single nail. Surrounded by lotus ponds and manicured gardens, the nunnery offers a peaceful escape from the city's hustle, and a rare glimpse into classical Chinese aesthetics, right in the heart of Hong Kong. On this trip to Hong Kong, I sensed something different— a quiet heaviness. The city, once buzzing with optimism, now feels more subdued. Over the past 40 years, Hong Kong thrived alongside China's economic rise. But today, with China's growth slowing and political shifts reshaping the city, uncertainty hangs in the air. Some half a million young people and their families have left, creating a noticeable void. While efforts are underway to replenish the population with newcomers from the mainland, whether that will truly restore the city's spirit remains unclear. Hong Kong is still vibrant and dynamic, but also one of the most expensive cities in the world. Facing a long period of economic and social adjustment, will it recover? Only time will tell. But for those who love this city, Hong Kong is more than a skyline or culinary brilliance. It's a story still being written. Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, please like, comment, share, and subscribe. And don't forget to hit the notification bell so you won't miss our next video. Stay curious, stay inspired, and we will see you in the next one.