PantoRouter Cart - 332

hey folks how you guys doing hope you are all having a great day today this video is a rather long video and while I encourage you all to watch the entire video I understand that not everybody has that much time so just know that you can press the little gear icon somewhere on YouTube and change the playback speed to one and a half two times speed whichever you need to kind of get a little bit more of the video in less amount of time if you choose to do so the whole video is about using this panto router to make the panto router a cart to make this entire setup and an all-inclusive very convenient ready to use joinery station really the hybrid panthro router if you're not familiar with it it is a fantastic machine for all kinds of joinery you may have seen this used with mortise and tenon joinery most commonly but it's not just that you can do mortise and Tenon's variable space dovetails or box joints dowel joints bowtie diamond templates any template that you put up here is a two to one reduction that can be cut precise on here and with various stops it's very very repeatable now that may have just sound like a sales pitch for the machine I have nothing to gain or lose whether you do or do not buy this machine I don't make any money on their sales and I'm not being paid to make this video but I do have plans available for this particular card so if you're interested in that I'll have a link to my website where you can purchase these plans and if you want to show your support with for what I'm doing without spending a dime then just watch my stuff on my website rather than on YouTube so with that being said let's get into this pretty long video I only have three hours of shop time today so I want to get all of the lumber cut or all the pieces cut for the frame every bit of the frame is going to be cut out of regular two-by-four material here at the miter saw all these pieces can be crosscut to a rough length and these are some pretty rough two by fours I didn't really take my time to get some really nice ones simply because I doesn't really matter that much for defects throughout the length of the board just so long as there are no defects no major knots at the ends of my pieces where the joinery will be alright so those four two by fours are cut into four front to back sides left right top bottom front to back pieces and then four corner posts four legs whatever you want to call them and then four structures that go left and right front back top and bottom and then also the rest of it I just cut in half so these are longer than all three of these pieces and I'm gonna go ahead and take these through the milling process as well so that I'll have some stock that is the exact same width and thickness as all of my pieces so that I can use it for testing and setups and then also if I screw up one of these which is kind of known to happen then I'll have some stock to continue on with the build that's already the exact same thickness [Music] now the pieces can be cut to their final lengths before I get started cutting the joints I want to walk you through a dry assembly to show you how this will be assembled we have a top and bottom short piece and two vertical pieces per side assembly so this is obviously laying flat these pieces will be the vertical pieces with the Tenon's the horizontal pieces will be the mortise pieces so for mortise and tenon joints and that's how this will be assembled the side assembly two of them once they are completely glued together then I can cut mortises on the back side because this side right here is facing out so the mortises will be cut on the other side and then the two side assemblies will be connected with a board like so once again this board will be on the other side this side is facing out but just just to give you an idea this board will be in this orientation connecting the two side assemblies so for mortise and tenon joints glue them up and then four more mortise and tenon joints the thing is every one of my pieces have the same thickness so I need to set up the machine based upon the thickness of all of my stock regardless of which orientation they're gonna be in because all the mortise and tenon joints will be cut with the tenon flat on the table the first thing to set on the panel router is the height of the template holder and you want the height of this to be perfectly centered with the height or thickness of your material that way your your your joint is cut centered on the material thickness to do so we have this stop lock right here that's calibrated when the machine is initially set up and this is a scrap block or a off cut of the same material that I'm working with so it has the same three inch and one and a quarter inch dimensions as all of my other pieces and setting this on top of the stop lock I can then release the template holder and let that sit on top of this material clamp it back down and now if this goes on to the table this cut we'll be perfectly centered vertically on my material the next thing to set up is the table fence and we want this to be positioned so that the material is centered on the table every single time so you probably can't see it but there's a line scratched on the table which is the perfect center of the table based upon the center of the template holder and there's two scales on this bar over here the scale closest to the camera is a one-to-one scale and the scale closest to me is a two-to-one reduction scale so I can set my block here and see that it is indeed three inches so now I need to line the center of the table to the two-to-one reduction of three and that will position my material let me go ahead and set this really quick now my material will be perfectly centered on the table when it's up against the fence every single time there's two main takeaways from this machine its precision and its repeatability the precision comes from when you set up the machine properly the first time which is very easy to do and repeatability comes from stops and reference phases so long as you keep track of all your stops in this case the fence and we've got a couple stops here on the front of the table that I'm about to show you and you keep track of the reference faces up against those fences as well as the table then you can batch out a lot of joints very precise very fast so this fence naturally allows for perfect centered Tenon's but we're gonna cut the mortises first you always want to cut the mortise first and then size the tenon to that mortise in this case the mortise needs to be cut on this face so we need a couple more stops when the joint is assembled this side of the tenon board up against the fence when they need to be lined with this side of the mortise board so obviously we use defense as a stop in that direction so we we also need to make sure we're not angled this way when we cut our mortise so that's where these stops come into play they're plastic so if the router bit interacts with them or touches them it's not going to damage the bit any these are disposable in that regard they can get chewed up so I'm going to put two fence our two stops on the front side of the tape well that will position the material this way and make sure that every one of these cuts are in line in the same way and then pushed up against the fence that way so now we have three reference phases that will position our material every single time the front face on these stops this end over here up against the fence and of course the the face touching the table now the piece can be clamped in place my mortise piece is located where it needs to be now I need to hold it in place these clamps come with the machine and they slide into these slots on the table making holding stuff down really easy so you'll notice that this fence doesn't go all the way to the front of the table and that is so you can get one more clamp right here in the front and with the piece positioned up against all of these stops I'll clamp it in place sometimes you want a little bit more clamping pressure than just that but unfortunately this isn't going to reach this side of the material at all so the solution to that is adding a support piece over here that is about the same height as your material and then some type of bridge material to go in between and now I can put downward pressure onto the material over here making a much more stable piece to make the cut the last thing to do is set the plunge depth how far you want to go into the material and I'm gonna remove this dust collection mustache well brush what do I want to call it so we can see the bit and first thing we want to do here is put the bearing inside the template so now we have our height established by the template and if we move the bit up against the work surface you can see we have another stop block in this direction how far do we want to go into the material well if you have a specified depth there's a scale here and you can just set the stop block to that desired depth on the scale and you'll know that you'll plunge into that exact distance this is a through mortise and tenon joint so all I really need to do is go through the material I'll be able to feel that so setting this is not necessary however I have one and a quarter inch thick material so I'll just set it a sixteenth of an inch past that and there you go I've got the the depth or the plunge depth set this is your backstop for mortises it's not necessary but we will use it for the Tenon's now I'm ready to cut and I'll put the dust collection mustache back on because I value dust collection more so than showing you a router bit cutting wood and we'll make the cut [Applause] and I know I'm talking a lot so this may seem like it's a lot of work but it's really not it's all reference phases and a very quick and easy setup so speaking of reference phases and setup if these were non through mortise and tenon if the mortises had a specified depth they needed to cut through that same front side of the board for both mortises and in that case we would have to reposition the fence so that this front side stays towards the router bit and we have a stop over here we don't have to worry about that because these are through mortise and tenon joints 3ya through mortise and tenon joints so it doesn't matter if we cut through this side or if we cut through on this side so long as these two phases are parallel and everything is nice and square you're going to get the same location of the mortise so on all these I can simply rotate the piece around and cut the next mortise with the exact same set up [Applause] now it's time to set up for the tendons and needing to make sure that the front stops are out of the way so the material can go past the front of the table lining up with the fence and sticking out past the table longer than what your desired tendon is so I just need a one and a quarter inch tenon and that's fine I can bring my clamps back to this side of the table and then set my plunge depth once again it's all about stops and reference faces so we want to set a stop so that every time we load a new piece of material for the tenon this face right here is going to be in the exact same plane every single time and we can do that with the backstop on the the carriage here so if I slide the bit all the way forward so it touches the workpiece then I can set this backstop all the way up against the bottom of the carriage over here and that means that this carriage cannot go this way anymore at all so every time I load a new piece of material up here to be cut I can slide the carriage all the way towards me left in this orientation then slide the material up against the bit and that will give me this reference face in the exact same plane every single time from there I need to know how long do I want to make the tenon well these are through mortise and tenon joints at one in a quarter-inch thick material so I'm going to set the front stop or the plunge stop to one and one quarters one in one quarter of an inch so that way once I start cutting my tenon I can only make it one quarter of an inch one and one quarter of an inch based upon this starting point right here the machine comes with this how-to guide that has this really handy chart inside it and for all the mortises we're using this 10 millimeter guide bearing inside the templates for all of the Tenon's well we have a variety of different options for guide bearings that we can use so in this case we used a half inch router bit to create a half inch wide mortise and we need a 1/2 inch tenon thickness so for a half inch tenon thickness and a half inch router bit I need a 22 millimeter guide bearing so I'm going to take this 10 millimeter out and replace it with this 22 millimeter guide bearing as you can see the perimeter of these templates is tapered so that the maximum thickness of the widest point is up against the template holder and the minimum thickness of the tenon or the the lowest point is outside near the front edge this will this taper allows you to really dial in a perfect fit for the tenon so with the bearing all the way up against the template holder you're gonna get the thickest tenon possible and go ahead and make a cut on a piece of scrap wood if it's too big to fit into the mortise then you pull the bearing away from the template holder just a little bit lock it down make another cut and do that as many times as necessary to dial in the perfect fit that you want for the mortise and tenon joint once you have the fit lined up once you have the fit established I should say then lock this into place and you can batch out all the tendons that you need with the exact same setup [Music] right before I glue these together I want to show you that due to the using reference phases and stops everything should fit nice and precise which it does and it's all compatible with one another so all the joints are the same meaning I can spin this around I should get the same precision off of the outside reference phases what you do for it - pretty cool so I'm gonna go ahead and do a dry assembly with all these just to make sure everything fits wish it it should I doubt it though then I'll take it apart and glue everything up and come back once these assemblies are dry [Music] with both frames glued up I can cut the mortises on those but I can only cut half of them before I have to make a setup change to the machine so let me go ahead and explain that real quick we have this this other piece back here so we can't simply rotate the piece around and cut from the other face even though they are through mortise and Tenon's because well this is in the way we need to start at this face without this being in the way therefore instead of rotating it around I need to move my fence so that I'm no longer referencing off of here and instead referencing off of here because everything is based upon the centerline of the table that's actually pretty easy to do so long as you take into consideration the width width of your material so this is a scrap block of wood that is the same dimension as my material that I'm working with and with it up against this fence it is perfectly centered so now instead of referencing off of this face I need to move the fence so it's referencing off of this face an easy way to do that is to move one of these blocks into place on the front and now I've created a stop block on this side of my material stock right so now I can use this to transfer over here and move the fence loosen the fence I'm no longer dealing with this scale back here slide it into place so that this side of the fence is now in line with this stop block that I set make sure everything is aligned properly now I can move these front stops to the other side of the table making sure they're out of the way which they are and now I can do the exact same cut referencing off of the appropriate side over here [Music] [Applause] it's actually been about a week or so since I recorded anything about this cart that's because I put some casters on the bottom plywood on top panel rot or on top and started using it and it got carried away with some other stuff going on so let me get you caught up very simple I added four locking swivel casters to the bottom they work really well I added a little plywood shelf over here which this is just two screws one right there and one right there underneath I guess I didn't take the bucket and that's to hold the cyclone and I still need to trim this plywood down so that's not a shin grabber right in the middle I've got a shot back this is a six horsepower five gallon shop back and I sized the frame so that it would just sit in place wedged so there's nothing holding this in place other than gravity and it's about I guess about a half inch off the ground so the simplest way to install that is to not make anything to install it but rather just use the dimensions to your advantage and I have both the router and shop back plugged into an eye socket switch so when the SHA I'm sorry when the router and the panto router turns on it'll power the shop vac and have automatic dust collection that goes into a 12-gauge extension cord so there's no electrical needed as far as making your own circuit and then I put some cheap hooks over here for the cord so that a 25 foot cord can be wound up really easily so this just makes the entire setup extremely convenient to use one thing to note is you don't want a lot of pressure on this dust collection hose this shot by post because this is plastic and you don't want to be pulling down constantly and potentially break this off long term so I have it just draped over and have nice sweeping curves nothing tight this is just sitting in place I thought about zip tying it right there but after using it for quite a while it just sits in place so there's no need of me zip tying it so very basic setup here but it works really really well the only thing I need to do now is to find a place for all the accessories and stuff and for that I'm gonna use box joints to make some drawers these are the Box joint templates and I say templates plural because it's a bunch of these stacked together these segmented box joint templates and you can space these out however you want to get any type of combination that you want in my case I want an even 1/2 inch box joints throughout the entire length of the joint so I have these pushed up against one another and what's really cool about these is it makes it a very foolproof way to get either a quarter inch or half inch box joints based upon whatever bit you're using so if I wanted quarter inch box joints I can take my guide bearing inside the obviously this arm down here and come in from the bottom on every single slot and that will give me one quarter inch spacing with a 1/4 inch bit four quarter inch box joints but if I want to use a half inch bit I don't want to accidentally get into the wrong one because a half inch or that's a skip to do half inch box joints that's where these templates are cool because you can come in from the top and one of these slots inside every one of these templates is stopped up at the top so the spacing is doubled and therefore you can get perfect half inch box joints by coming through the top it's a foolproof way to get precise joints without accidentally hitting the wrong slot and ruining your joint this is one of those situations where you can reference everything off of the center of the table and the center of the template holder if you want but in my case I just find it easier to push push everything up to one side and then work from one side to the other always referencing off of in my case the bottom edge of the drawer sides and dwarf front so this bottom edge will reference off of this edge of the fence with the material but where does this fence need to be placed well in that case the template guide bearing up here can reference off of the far right side of the template and I know that is the furthest right that this bit will need to be so I can put the bit on the table very carefully making sure not to scratch anything up and then slide the fence up to the bit gently and then lock it down now I know that with the guide bearing perfectly in line with this the this far edge of this template over here to the right I am going to be taking off one router bit with on the bottom of the drawer pieces of course to cut the mating part of that joint I either need to a move the fence by the exact width of the router bit or be spaced the material away from the fence by the by that exact amount and I'll get into that once I get to those pieces now we need to control how far the bit goes forward and in this case I want to make my cuts really close to the table so the material is fully supported but obviously I don't want the bit to run into the table so you can see I have this front depth stop set so that the machine or the carriage cannot run into the table there's always going to be a small little gap between the pit and the table that's fine for my ending point but I want a consistent back point or a starting point and that is so that I can reference my new material for every cut up against the bit to locate it this way so the easiest way to do that is to simply use a block down here to determine how long you want the teeth to be in my case I want the teeth I want the joint to be the exact thickness of the material so that none of it sticks off some people like to leave the joints a little bit long and then flush trim them in this case I've had good results just cutting them to the exact length so in between either side of this doesn't really matter I'll use a scrap block of the same material I'm working with to go up against this tab right here and then slide you can't see it because the wood is in the way but slide the backstop up against it and lock it down so now the gap between here and here is the exact thickness of my material which means if I reference the material on the table see if I can't do this and stay out of the way if I reference my new piece up against the bit with a bit stopped obviously and clamp it down in our clamping down to the table now I know that when I lift it up I can plunge the exact thickness of the material and cut perfect length box joints every single time I'm using 1 by 6 material for the drawer stock and all I'm concerned with here is that they are the exact same width before I cut the other half of the joint I want to mention the precision of these templates and how you can adjust the fit of your joints based upon how you interact with the templates so first you should always create a test joint before you batch out a bunch of parts obviously but in my case already I've already messed with this already know the precision that I want these slots when the templates are squished together are a little bit wider than the diameter of this gyda bearing and that allows you to have to reference sides as you travel up and down the template so in my case I wanted the most I wanted the tightest settings so as I was both going down and up on the template I was putting pressure on the template on the operators side of this slot there's a little bit of wiggle room like I said so if you want to have a larger cut made just a tiny amount larger than the diameter of the router bit then you can go down on one side of the slot and then back up on the opposite side of the slot and that will make a very very slightly wider cut now you can use that will amount to three types of precision right so the first combination is all of your cuts no matter what on both sides of the joint are cut on one side of the template that's what I'm gonna do here I'm gonna make all of my cuts with the bearing pushed up against the operator side of the template the second precision or the the second fit you can get is by cutting half of the joint at the tightest setting and then say on the other half of the joint on those you use both sides of the slot on your travel so half of the joint is cut a little bit wider the third tolerance or the the third tightness you can get from this is by cutting both sides of the joint with both sides of the template so play around with it before you batch out all of your stuff I already know the fit that I want I can achieve by using just one side of the template on both sides of the joint or one side of the template slot on both sides of the joint to cut the other half of the we need to either offset the pieces from the fence by the exact diameter of the router bit or simply move the fence by the exact diameter of the router bit and one of the easiest spacers you can use or the most convenient ones is a drill bit because well you know the drill bit size you should know the spacer this is exactly half of an inch according to my calipers but putting it right here and having a piece of metal just kind of sitting right there kind of unsecured I've done it before but it's not the most ideal situation so instead I am actually going to move the fence and it's actually really really easy to do with a dial indicator so first before I mess with this fence at all I don't want to lose the placement of it if something happens and I need to reset so I'm gonna take one of these front stops and put it in the table right here up against the backside of the fence so if I ever have to come back to it or if I mess up I can always go back to that exact same location now I need to move this over by the exact by an exact amount the exact diameter of the router bit so for that I'm gonna use a dial indicator and this is just a cheap one that I've screwed to a piece of plywood I've been kicking this around in the shop for many years it is extremely handy as a well it's handy for many situations in my case it's taller than the fence though so I'm going to use a spacer block here or stop block to extend the fence up and I'll push this in so that it marks zero on the gauge clamp it in place tweak it back to zero and now I can move my fence in exact point five zero zero inches very very easily and precisely oh one thousandth off and may or may not make a difference probably not and there we go exactly point five zero zero movement with just a couple blocks that I recommend you have anyway now the other half of all of the joints can be cut and while doing this a little bit and found that dust collection is a little bit better if I come from the bottom up and that's just due to the rotation of the bit and how far the bit is sticking out this could also be resolved by using a shorter bit but the quickest and easiest solution is to note that next time I should mount the templates upside down in the template holder and raise the template holder just a little bit so that I can still cut half inch box joints but starting from the bottom and cutting up here's a quick tip for you instead of applying glue to all four of these spaces if you can orient them to where they line up simply clamp them together and apply glue one time to all four boards I'm using hide glue for two reasons number one it's going to help lubricate the joints and make assembling it a little bit easier and number two it'll allow me a lot more open assembly time so I was using regular PVA glue not only will it set up quicker but the water and the PVA glue will expand the joint making it an even tighter fit causing me to swing a much larger hammer than what I want to swing if the joints are nice and tight you don't necessarily need to leave them in clamps just use the clamps to pull the joints closed take it out of the clamps measure for square and set it aside I have the drawer fronts clamped together with the top surfaces touching one another and the drawer fronts facing down now I can use a one and a half inch Forstner bit to drill a hole right in the middle of the drawer fronts and this will result in a half circle drawer pull on each one of the drawers and while the drawers are still together I'll use a roundover bit to ease the edge [Music] [Applause] I'll never really put a lot of weight in these drawers so I'm just using quarter-inch plywood for drawer bottoms and I'm gluing it directly to the bottom of the drawer [Music] [Applause] [Music] using ball bearing drawer slides I think this is just an economy one inch over travel nothing expensive or anything and let's see I want these to be high up on the drawer just for convenience sake it really doesn't matter how high you place them typically you see them mounted in the middle but in this case I want them to be this top edge of the piece the wider piece that will be mounted to the cart I want it to be exactly one quarter of an inch higher than the side of the drawer so that's gonna be easily achieved by flipping this over on a work surface putting a quarter inch spacer underneath it which is basically just an off cut strip from this drawer bottom and now if I reference the if I put the drawer slide on my workbench and start to secure it on this front edge this inside piece I know that when I assemble this in the case this top edge of the drawer slide will be exactly 1/4 of an inch higher than the top edge of the drawer side so do you guys ever watch these videos online these woodworking videos and think well how this person just always produces something flawless right it's only everything always comes out according to plan and everybody always says at the end of their videos well I'm just so happy with the way this turned out anyway we all make mistakes obviously I made these drawers full one inch too long oh I'm an idiot so candy would say it I built the drawer to the exact width of the opening and I did not subtract an inch for the drawer slides I don't know if I wrote down the measurement wrong or read the tape measure wrong or set the stop block wrong but something that I did wrong and I didn't take that err I didn't I didn't figure that out until I went to install the drawers so dumb mistake I went ahead and remade both of these drawers not out of pine because I ran out instead out of poplar and I gotten carried away we're working without the camera running and went ahead and installed them in there so there's no footage of them being installed but that's okay because we've all seen drawer slides being screwed to the inside of a case so man let me let's just let me just catch you up with where we're at over here if you can't laugh at yourself then well the card is basically done and as you can see that the drawers are already installed and the drawer slides are exposed in between these posts and I don't want them to I guess remain exposed just for dust reasons so just to keep the dust out I'm going to screw through the drawer slides and install this piece of plywood just to kind of cover things up a little bit you know what's really frustrating when you go to undo one of these long cord reels and it's all tangled up and that's because when you wrap it up you're just making a right turn right turn right turn right turn right turn you're twisting the cord this is true with with garden hoses as well and extremely important to wrap up the cord the right way and the vacuum cleaner in the house so it's not frustrating in my opinion anyway instead of going the same direction every time make a figure eight top down the top down top down top down what you're doing is making a left turn right turn left turn right turn left turn right turning that way when you get when you need to take this off it's going to not be all tangled up so in this bottom drawer it's just basically overflowed some scrap test joints that I've made these are cool to have on hand to show people and this will just be you know for the clamps odds and ends type stuff this top drawer is where the magic is right so this is all nice and organized every single piece has a home which is fantastic now really quick I cut this out on my CNC machine and laid out a rough size of surface area on my workbench taped it off laid everything out the way that I wanted it took a picture of it imported that into Sketchup and drew everything on top of that and then used my CNC machine to cut everything out I know not everybody has a CNC machine and actually that wasn't my initial choice for this my initial choice was Kaizen foam but I realized why I phone when I can just cut one of these out myself so if you buy the plans for this cart I'm gonna have this whole diagram ready to go so that you can duplicate this set up and you'll know where everything has a home and everything fits for the Kaizen foam or if you just want to or if you have a CNC machine or know somebody with one then I'll have the the vector file for all of this to go ahead and cut it out but anyway everything is here we've got our horizontal mortise and tenon templates are vertical mortise and tenon templates the triple mortise and tenon the variable space dovetail templates the box joint templates the bowtie the diamond the there's five dowel templates some of the tools this is for the router this is for the templates and this is one of the most handy things to have for just about all of these types of machines so have this and then a little pocket down here for some odds and ends some wrenches extra screws and nuts and the monster mortise and tenon bits bits the monster mortise and tenon gyda bearings the four main bits that are used with the machine a couple little setup pieces and the rest of the guide bearings over there so everything has a home and you can instantly look and see if something is missing so you know to put it back two more things to mention before I stop talking and I did end up zip tying the hose and cord to that lower rail and just gives plenty of extra without the added stress of it just dangling down here at the bottom I said I was going to knock the corners off of this piece of plywood but I don't think it's necessary and actually I've already dumped this twice and having any extra support right there is kind of handy I don't have this bucket or cyclone attached to the cart at all it's just basically sitting there and I don't think it needs one I've wheeled it around all the way around the shop several times and it really doesn't move so I don't think there's any need to secure it in any way gravity seems to be doing the job just fine and it is a completely non rigid setup so if you accidentally bump into it it's not going to damage anything if it Wiggles so this project is done and real quick if you're not Miller with the hybrid panto router this machine then I'll have a link in the description check it out I am not affiliated with those the folks at that company at all I don't make any money on their sales and I'm not being paid to make this video however they did send me this machine to use it's an upgraded version of the one that I already had and the biggest upgrade is the base they've made some improvements with the base made it more precise and it's a big cast aluminum piece rather than some these aluminum aluminum extrusions so they have made some tweaks here and there and they're continuously improving which is fantastic I love it when companies out there really and try to improve on their product rather than just sit back and try and sell the one that they have so that's fantastic great folks to deal with if you're interested in making this cart I will have a set of plans available link is in the description if you're watching this on YouTube but the plans aren't going to be 100% for this cart and that's because I've noted some areas for improvements along the way so it's gonna be close but not 100% and let's see the card itself it checks all the boxes for you want strength in a cart like this and you get all the strengths from the joinery rather than adding panels and what I mean by that is like a bookcase is pretty strong if it's just sitting there with gravity pushing down but any type of lateral forces it's gonna be a little bit wobbly just due to the nature of a bookcase so just really strengthen it up you add a back panel to it and that'll really strengthen it up this way this cart is really strong due to the joinery so no panels are necessary for adding strength like there's no need to add a back panel although I guess you could if you want I did add some panels to the side but those were simply to to reduce the amount of dust that gets on the drawer slides so that's number one number two it's an easy project to make if you don't screw up like I did and the the third thing is it's convenient and efficient to use the machine now all of the accessories are right here ready to go so I'm looking forward to using this if this is your first time watching one of my video be sure to go to my website JC Custom Creations comm sign up for my email newsletter and you'll see everything that I published because I publish a way more stuff on my website than I do here on YouTube and if you want to support what I do without spending a dime simply watch my stuff on my website I don't have a patreon account or anything like that I don't really like taking money for nothing so if you'd like to show your support like I said for what I do without spending any money just watch my stuff on my website it's very much appreciated that's it for this video you guys take care have a great day and I'll catch you in the next video