Yamaha T Max 500: Discs, pads and front brake fluid

Hello everyone and welcome to the channel And welcome for a new video Not on a bike, but on a scooter It's unusual, but I'm serving a friend So, this is a TMAX 500 1st generation On which we are going to replace front brake discs, pads and liquid Since it's the same thing as on a bike, it's not a problem I'm starting by cleaning the screws But in reality, things are not going to go as planned On this channel, we show you the real life And in the real life, things don't always go as planned In this case, the screws' imprints are going to be totally destroyed So, after trying on a screw, I understood that I won't be able to remove them So, I decided to put the wheel at my dogbiker's place Which I thank again So that he can extract these screws Here, I'm unscrewing a screw that holds the ABS sensor But in reality, there is no need to remove the wheel The workshop manual says to put the brake calipers To put the wheel, so that's what I'm doing I put all the caliper support with Here, I'm unscrewing the brake caliper screw Before unscrewing the axle And now, we're going to unscrew the axle as such With a 14mm Allen socket Here, we had to put the foot because the axle was too tight It's tight at 59Nm according to the workshop manual Here, we were well behind Anyway It still came That being done, we can slide the wheel Out of the forks, so it follows from pulling on it We put the scooter on a chandelier, off camera It's necessary to raise the front And so, off camera, I put the wheel at my dogbiker's place By A17, which I thank again And who managed to extract the screws for me As you can see Again, thanks to them These brake caliper screws being mounted with threadlocker I'm going to remove the rest of threadlocker Which could remain in the rim To do so, I use a brake cleaner And I unscrew the screws And you can see that there is not much left in reality So it's a good sign I'm going to do that for each hole Here are the new brake calipers They are floating discs, as you can see Like any brake caliper, I degrease them before installing them Because they are often oiled when leaving the factory To avoid rust Here, I apply threadlocker on the new screws They make me put very little As you can see, it's enough I put threadlocker on medium low No need to put more It's even problematic when disassembling I put the new screws in my hand They are easy to screw So it's a good sign These screws are tightened to a torque of 18Nm I tighten and tighten them By following a star sequence I take a screw And I screw one of the two farthest And then the farthest each time Same thing on the other side I reversed the assembly order But I wanted to show you one of the holes Where the old brake calipers were damaged I realized it when I saw that the screw was through And didn't want to be screwed It must have been damaged during the extraction It doesn't matter I'm going to fix it by using my M8 brake caliper With a 1.25 gauge It's the standard gauge for M8 2 turns forward, 1 turn backward, etc. And I clean the metal residues At the end of the operation Same thing, I degrease the brake disc Before installing it And I apply the brake caliper On the new screws And finally The bearing that I repaired And there, relief The screw Fits on its own So everything is fine That being done We can reassemble the front wheel Before that, I degrease the axle To remove the old grease Or what was left, there wasn't much And I re-grease it With lithium grease We put the wheel back After putting the calipers back on And we slide it back inside the fork As disassembled This model has ABS It has this sensor That has a notch That goes inside the fork I don't have a picture to show you But there is a small notch That you have to align With the fork That being done I Put The cover of the tank Once again, it's a japanese vehicle The screws Are a cruciform spring So JIS screwdrivers Otherwise You're going to have problems Here, the screws came I tap on them Before turning them And by turning them It's like the hotkey of the poor To take off the threads As you can see The screws are a bit rusty You always have to start from the principle That the cruciform screws are Are screwed I remove the cover of the tank Because I'm going to push the pistons back Since This action Will raise the level of brake fluid in the tank And that a liquid is not compressible If I don't open The tank The pressure Will have to evacuate somewhere And in general It's the blow that makes It's very delicious Ask me how I know Anyway Now I'm going to be able To drop the pins Of the caliper So you have to do it Before dropping The caliper support Here I put it back The time to do this operation But ideally It's better to do it directly Here I see On the assembly That these pins Have been reversed By the previous intervener So I will put it back On camera Here is the caliper You see It's quite dirty And the pads Are placed On the caliper support And they had I would say 30% Of life It's mostly The discs That were problematic They had the mileage Of the scooter Which is 60.000 km Which is huge They were totally worn They had a huge leak So now I'm going to clean The pistons With a toothbrush That I'm going to soak In deodorized oil Because it's a very good degreaser It's not volatile And it's not aggressive So it's perfect to work On this kind Of area And it's very effective And of course I degrease all this At the end With brake cleaner Here I open the purge screw To help me When I'm going to push The pistons On this side They are in Quite easily But on the other side It was a bit more complicated So when it's really complicated It's a good idea To open the purge screw It allows to Evacuate the pressure And I push them Totally To facilitate the reassembly Here are The new gaskets I had to file For an hour On each side Because they were A bit too high And didn't fit In the caliper support I don't know If it's Solo Or this reference But It wasn't Very funny And for comparison I chamfer The new gaskets To facilitate The routing And I degrease By the way The caliper support You can degrease This support With a high temperature When reassembling If you have one So the installation Of the gaskets Is very simple You just have to Put it On the Support On the side Like this And then To put the caliper On top And the two pins Once again I'll put them In the right way Off camera I put them As I found them That's why And these pins Are tightened By 27 Nm I'll tighten The caliper support To a torque Of 40 Nm I'll do The same thing On the other side So I cut A part Of this operation Because it's the same thing And you'll notice That the metal plates Are missing On the back Of the brake pads So the previous Interventor Had to throw them At the same time As the old pads Unfortunately But you have to Keep them And reinstall them They have an anti-noise Mainly Now I'll replace The brake fluid Alone It was a bit complicated But well I have to brake With the lever At the front And open the screw Etc Until The new fluid Appears In the pipe I'll do a video More detailed On the subject On another bike And same thing On the other side I'll check the level At the same time Because Air Shouldn't go inside So there has to be Fluid In the tank So I close it I put the screws That I don't tighten It's M4 So the contact Is enough And I think To reinstall The rubber On the purge screws Finally I can tighten The wheel axle To a torque Of 59 Nm So I put 60 I round it It comes back And then I can Tighten the screw After putting The scooter on its wheels And pumping the fork A few times To a torque of 23 Nm That will be all For this video I hope it will be useful And I tell you See you next time