Getting Dressed in the 1830s

The 1830s shift, or chemise, was made in linen or more usually cotton. The neckline was wide and the sleeves short to accommodate the latest fashions. Under drawers were still not commonly worn, but when they were, they were of the open leg sort, made from cotton, and fastened at the back waist with laces or buttons. The finest stockings were made of silk and had a decorative detail at the ankle This embroidered feature was called clocks. Ribbon garters were tied beneath the knee to hold the stockings in place and to ensure a smoothly contoured ankle. The stays were made from a stiff cotton fabric, shaped by means of gauze inserted at the bust and hips. They were stiffened and decorated with cording and had a wood or metal busk at the centre front, though some had a button front opening for ease of dressing. The stays were laced down the back to fit and finished with handworked or metal eyelets. To give the desired bell shape of the skirts and to balance the wide sleeves, many petticoats were worn. Some would be starched and stiffened with cording, which could extend from the hem up to hip level. Full length petticoats were also worn, especially over front buttoning stays in order to smooth the outline. A small three flounced ruffled bustle would be added for a little extra lift at the back. The large, fashionable leg of mutton or gigot sleeves required support to maintain the puff. This was achieved by adding down-filled cotton sleeve puffs or plumpers into the sleeve head by pushing them through the armhole and tying them into place. The waist was slightly above the natural waist and was either straight or finished with a slight point, a la Marie Stuart. This gown has a wide pelerin collar attached, but separate pelerin collars were also worn, often made from lace. The gowns were usually fastened at the back by concealed hooks and eyes. Wide ribbon belts with ornate buckles at the centre front completed the look. Shoes were usually flat with a squared toe and were often tied with ribbons. Jewellery, including earrings and necklaces, suited the wide neckline. For a typical 1830s hairstyle, the sides of the hair would be curled into ringlets while the back of the hair pulled up into curls, loops or braids. Hairstyles were often decorated elaborately with flowers, ribbons, combs or pearls depending on the occasion. The fashion for absurdly wide puffed sleeves was short-lived. It came to epitomise the era of the reign of King William IV and Queen Adelaide of Great Britain, which lasted from 1830 to 1837.