Around Patagonia │ Part 6 - Sailing in the Heart of the Andes
▶︎ Support these films by buying us a coffee! https://www.ko-fi.com/tupaia
▶︎ Photos and updates: https:/instagram.com/lthiault/
▶︎ https://lauricthiault.com
▶︎ LIVE TRACKER: https://forecast.predictwind.com/trac...
▶︎ ABOUT THIS TRIP
By daylight on Christmas Day, we left Puerto Natales after a week spent stocking-up enough food and diesel and arranging paperwork. As usual, we sailed against the prevailing northwesterlies and current. Beating up Seno Unión in a strong breeze was no small challenge but conditions improved in Canal Sarmiento until it became mirror-calm. Surrounded by dolphins, we motored into Estero Peel, a 45-mile long inlet with four secondary arms cutting deeply into the Cordillera. We set out to visit each of them. On the first day of 2025, we thus entered the northernmost section of Estero Peel, crossing the tricky Angostura Mischief and penetrating up to the heart of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. We then attempted to reach Estero Calvo but were rapidly stopped by the large amount of ice choking the area. We still managed to get a good view of the many ice tongues tumbling down to the sea at the head of this spectacular fjord. Surrounded by high peaks and slopes alive with thousands of waterfalls, we sailed into Estero Asia. Temporary anchored behind a barren rocks, we watch the glacier calve all the afternoon before returning to the safety of a caleta. Further South, we visited Estero Amalia, who has sadly shirked considerably over the years. Near this crumbling glacier, we found a glimmer of hope in a group of huemules grazing peacefully with the jagged outline of the Andes in the backdrop. In Amalia, we also had a little grounding incident that fortunately only ended with a few scratches on the keel… After this 12-day detour, we were back on the main route, windward again, but soon had to find shelter on Isla Chatam. There, we had our worst experience with the terrific squalls called williwaws. Not much because of the gale itself, which was blowing 55kts at its peak, but because of the poor protection offered by the caleta we chose. Eventually the wind moderated but we took the day off to repair our spare genoa and get a proper night of sleep. Back in the channels, we got to enjoy a couple of fun sailing days tacking in the narrow canals Pitt and Andrés all the way up to the southern tip of Isla Wellington. Then the wind died down entirely. We motored in a smooth and black water with low clouds gliding over the thick rainforest on each side of the channel. We caught some fish in Estero Gage and went on a nice hike in the surrounding heights, overlooking an ice-filled Canal Wide that we would cross the next day. Finally, we made another diversion from the main route to visit Pío XI Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier of the area. This 65km long river of ice, ending with a 60m high and 4,5km long face continuously discharged huge blocks into the sea with thundering power. It was a sensational ending to that first part of the trip along the Southern Patagonian Icefield.
Activate the subtitles (EN and FR available) for more context and practical info.
▶︎ INFO & STATS
Sailboat: Dufour 35 “TUPAIA” (n°156 year 1974)
Weather: 17% sun - 41% cloud - 42% rain
Wind (Beaufort scale): 35% 0-3 - 45% 4-5 - 18% 6-8 - 2% 9-11
▶︎ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
02:16 - Provisioning in Puerto Natales
04:25 - Windward in Seno Unión and Canal Sarmiento
07:29 - Estero Peel
11:55 - Estero Calvo
13:53 - Estero Amalia
16:03 - Estero Asia
18:20 - Gale on Isla Chatam
19:58 - Repairing our Genoa
21:47 - Windless days in Canal Wide
27:23 - Ventisquero Pío XI
30:52 - Stats