“Wooden Handle Jar” Throwing on the potter’s wheel

Today's project is a wooden handle jack. I'm using 500g of stoneware clay on a small throwing bag, which is placed on a wet wheel mat. This wet mat holds the bag securely in place. First, I create a cone shape to equalize the clay's density and center it at the same time. I keep my left hand slightly higher than my right, creating a spiral effect that encourages the clay to rise naturally. With the edge of my right arm at the 5 o'clock position, I press the top of the cone, pushing diagonally downwards. My left hand stays on the opposite side to receive the force. Now my left hand maintains the cone shape. I can see the clay becoming more elastic and smooth. The clay is now ready for the next stage. To form a flat top disc, I press down on the top, while my left hand keeps the side wall straight. The disc is about 10 cm in diameter. To begin, I place my right middle finger just off-center and slide it inward, allowing my finger to naturally find the center. Keep the bottom thickness at 5 mm, then slide the middle finger outwards along the base. When the tip of my right middle finger reaches the wall, my left hand supports the opposite side to maintain the cylinder's size. At the top, I always compress the rim from three directions, as the edge of a small pot can become very fragile. I compress the base with a wooden rib to prevent an S-crack, and to measure the internal diameter. The rib is 5 cm, and I need 8 cm for the internal space. Now I'm going to pull up the wall. My right ring finger is at the 9 o'clock position at the base. My left middle fingertip is on the opposite side of the wall, slightly higher. I interlock both thumbs to create a single stable tool with my thumbs. I use this grip most of the time, regardless of the pot's size. I repeat this process until the wall's thickness is less than 7 mm. A final stretch with a wooden rib evens out the exterior surface. I want to create a jack with a wide base, so I push out the bottom of the wall from the inside. Before narrowing the top, I remove the water from the interior. This narrow sponge is an off-cut from a large sponge, secured onto the pair of takeaway chopsticks without separating them, which holds the sponge very well. Now to make a narrow top. I gently squeeze the cylinder with both hands, then slide upwards. I pinch the top from both sides to even out the gathered clay. The squeezed clay becomes thicker, so I can stretch this extra height here. I'm going to flip the top to form the spout. My left fingers hold the neck in position, allowing my right index finger to focus on flipping the top. A final adjustment for the spout's angle and thickness. I clean the curved area to create an even surface. Chamois leather is useful to smooth and firm the spout's edge. I clean the bottom corner so the cutting wire can slide easily underneath, keeping the base tidy. This also helps if I need to do top centering or trimming later. I left the pot overnight with newspaper on top so that the pot becomes leather hard, the spout doesn't dry out too much. I wet the base of the pot and centered it on the wheel. Once the pot is in position, I seal the bottom corner to the wheel, which will hold the pot securely while trimming. As this is a handheld jug, I want to keep it light. After the body part is trimmed, I separate the pot from the wheel for bottom trimming. Cleaning the base corner first to give an easy access for the metal kidney. Then I press the metal kidney firmly onto the wheel and slide it under the pot. I use a greenware chuck for trimming. A wet chuck makes better contact with the wheel. To find the horizontal position for the pot, I use a round split bevel. When the bevel is centered, the job is done. Then I do top centering to bring the whole set to the middle. This silver tool consists of two discs with a bearing between them. The top disc stays under my finger, while the bottom one spins with the pot. This spreads the pressure from my finger, helping to avoid damaging the base and also saving my finger. The bottom corner contains the most clay, so I need to remove quite a lot here. Once the corner is done, I trim the foot rim, creating a flat surface for the base. Then I trim a line 7 mm from the outside of the foot rim. I trim several circles at the base, inside the foot rim, and then trim the tops of the foot. This way, I avoid creating a wavy surface. My clay contains grog. When the trimming tool catches on the grog, it can jump slightly, creating a wavy surface that's difficult to fix once it's there. I check the bottom thickness. Once the resistance of the clay weakens, it's time to stop. I polish the internal corner for a smooth finish. I also polish the base to create a firm surface after trimming. This helps prevent an escort. The basic form is now ready. I use a wire to cut the spout. I've already dipped the top in the water to make this step easier. Leave the spout side on the far side, then pull the wire towards you. When the wire reaches the end, I push with my thumbs to prevent chipping. This part is a matter of preference. I'm slicing the corner to make a narrow spout this time. Use a wet sponge to smooth the cut edge. Then I use my finger to finish the surface. The sponge removes the sharp edge, but also takes away fine clay, leaving a rough surface. So I go around the edge again with my fingers to smooth it. I've prepared two small pieces of clay for the handle holders, shaping them beforehand. I score the back of the pot where I want to attach the handle holders using a toothbrush. I do the same to the handle holders. These rough surfaces help the pieces grip each other better. I add some soft clay to the surface for a better bond, then press firmly to fuse the attachment. The soft clay is not a glue. It just helps to join two parts together. This pressure ensures a well-made joint. The joints need to be carefully merged into the body to avoid cracks later on. I'm cleaning the joint to make a seamless attachment. I'll attach a twig as a handle later, but you can use anything. An old spoon, cane, bamboo, and so on. That's the fun of this project. It's very simple, but you can use your imagination to give your pot real character. Thank you for joining me today. I hope you enjoyed watching this pottery process. Please leave your comment. They are great motivation for my next video. Happy creating, and I look forward to seeing you in the next pottery video. Have a great day.