Throwing a Pear Shaped ONE PIECE Lidded Jar on Pottery Wheel.

Today's project is throwing a pear-shaped one-piece lidded jar. In this video, I'm going to throw a pear-shaped one-piece lidded jar. In previous videos, I threw two different types of one-piece lidded jars. Those techniques are different at the joint point. In this video, I'm going to use chopstick technique for the joint point and make a pear shape. I use 600g buff stoneware clay on a small throwing bat. I'm making a cone shape to equalize the density of the clay. The usual theory is that the particles of the clay are disc-shaped, not round. So, moving the clay up and down makes the particles align well and makes throwing easier. I'm centering the clay using soft skimmed clay as a lubricant. My right hand is keeping a 45 degree angle and the force direction is 11 o'clock. My left hand is keeping the clay's edge straight. I'm making a center hole with my right thumb. For this small pot, I don't really need the left hand's assistance, but this is my habit. My right thumb goes down and leaves the bottom about 7mm thick. I then slide outwards to make the center hole wider. I'm compressing the bottom with a wooden spatula to prevent an S-clack. The first stretch. I'm just making the wall straight and an even thickness at this stage. I hold my right index, middle and ring fingers tightly together and straight. If these fingers go straight up, the clay should follow this guide. When I reach the top, I hold the position a bit longer and make sure the edge is compressed. In this stretch, I'm concentrating on making the wall thinner and even. Both thumbs are interlocked, so they work together. In this way, my left fingers inside the wall know how fast they should move. This is my handmade wooden tool, which compresses the internal corner in the right shape. Then I can use it as a stretching tool. Now I'm going to close the top, so I'm marking a third down that is going to be the start line to squeeze. I make a diamond shape with my hands and squeeze from the line and move upwards. After I repeat the same movement, the top becomes narrower. Then I mark a line where I want it to bury out. I use a wooden tool with a hook on the end from the inside and gently push out the wall. I'm going to close the top completely. The squeezed clay gets thicker and buckles, so I need to stretch the top a little bit more. Now the pot is closed. I can modify the shape easily. I want to make a pear shape this time. In another one-piece video, I use the lid as an inset, and the other one has no inset. As this one's lid has height, it is better to have it to secure the position. I shape the straight part where I want to make the inset. Then I slowly push the clay in with the flat part of a wooden tool to make an inset. This tool is just a takeaway chopstick, a good way of recycling. I make a hole for the air vent. Otherwise, the trapped air inside will make a crack at the weak point when the pot shrinks during the drying process. After the pot becomes leather hard, I will trim it. I wet the bottom of the pot a little bit, then attach the pot to the wheel using skimmed clay. I'm going to separate the lid from the main body using a needle. I'm trimming the lid with a small piece of wood. This is a cocktail stick from a Japanese sweet box. I'm compressing the clay rather than trimming it. This part is already thin, so it is my aim to make it stronger. I'm compressing the recess. Again, this part doesn't need to be trimmed much. I'm compressing it to make it stronger. The bottom doesn't need much trimming. As this pot is not for hot food or drink, so I'm not making a foot ring. For this reason, I made the bottom thinner than on a pot which needs a foot ring. I'm polishing the bottom and keeping the center slightly lower than the edge, so the pot will sit well. It is also good practice to polish the corner, as this part will chip easily otherwise. I'm making three indentations as decoration.