Mid America Cue Lathe Long Term Review. #pool1 #woodworking

[Music] What's going on, YouTube? Today's video is going to be a long-term review on the Mid American Cool and some of its products. I got this Mid American Cool. This is the professional one with a big bore for almost four years now. I have two videos on it and I just wanted to do a long a longterm review and some of the products I bought to um help me build some cues. So, like I said, this is the big bore. You can see this accepts almost 1.5 on the bore size when it opens up, which helps when you put uh cues inside. So, I know it should be less than 1.5. So, I know I know I do mine I cut my um cues down the the dowels to 1.35 so I can fit it inside the bore. So, and then of course it comes with the slide. And if you look at this slide, all I did was I got this from Amazon. This is a a quick release tool post. I had to do some Mickey Mouse welding. I'm not a welder. uh professional JB welder certified. But this is actually I weld this. I had two plates, drill some holes. As you can see, I messed up. So, I had to drill another hole. This is actually some Mid-Americ screws and it has the backings to hold this plate and just the regular bolt to hold it down. So, this is how how I modified it to have a tool post. And of course, you have your tailtock. Biggest thing with the tailtock is actually having this aligned to its center of the head um the headstock. That's probably the most important is having this very accurate. And the way I did that is actually having um an edge. And I have video on that on how I made this accurate edge alignment tool. And some of y'all will see why I have two tailtocks cuz when I was um building the cubes before I had my CNC, I used this this tailtock and this is also offset where this is not center to the center of this headstock. This is actually pushed off to the left or going that way from me so that I could have a taper on the cues the Q bututs when I'm making the cues. So that's why I have two stealth stock two tailtocks. But now I have a CNC. I'll probably put this to dead center. That way I can use it for compressing cues when I put when I glue them together. I got this from from Chris and he got it. It's a qmakerupply.com on care package and you can see that. One thing I like about this is like you can see you just pull it and you can reset this. That way you don't have to move this. Say this is like if you look at it, it's going to be in the way, right? Like when you loosen it. So all you do, pull it, bring it down, and then loosen it that way. So it's like a quick release. That's what I like about this. So or you just loosen it with your Allen Allen wrench hex hex nut and then tighten the tailtock and then you can tighten that. This is um one upgrade I I received from the care package. And I put little washers that way it doesn't go inside. I actually like these little products. So that's one advantage of it. So also what I received from Chris from QMaker Supplies is this. This might be upside down, but this is the way how I like it cuz it's flat on this side and has a slope on this side so that it's easier. I use this actually to just hold my tools. This is to tighten up the chuck. And of course, this is the the wheel to to move the slide. And then I drilled an extra hole here so I can put the Allen wrench. And then just put it through here. That way it holds it. And this is the chuck to tighten and loosen on the tailtock itself. So it helps me get more organized as you can see. And that's all I did was made these a little bit bigger, drill it, and of course I had to drill into the mortar and then put it in here. So, and then this I also received from Chris. This actually holds all the tool post. So, this is like my long boring bar. And he also received this. This is your collets for the shafts. And you can use it also on the the joints on the butt. But as you can see, this fits perfect. Quick access. It makes everything look cleaner and looks more professional. And there's a little where I had to tap it in there, but I just put that in here. Also received these. This is the leather with the rubber. This is very helpful because of the rubber cuz if you start building cues and you're actually using your tailtock to the headstock and you're drilling and it the material is very hard as you're drilling, sometimes your material will be pushed in. But with the rubber, it actually grabs the wood a lot better. So you're not having that problem where you have to undo the chucks, reset everything, move the slides, and then start drilling again. So I just place them here. That way they're flat and straight. And the biggest thing is that this is the original size when you get it, but I cut it down so that it's a little bit smaller. But if you look at it, it actually it's almost the same width as the jaws of the chuck. It's not bigger, but it's a little bit closer. That way, I know that when I put it on, it's going to be as close to the jaws itself cuz this is a little bit too big. As you can see, in my my opinion, it's a little bit too big, but it still works cuz you have all that extra space. Now, now the thing is if you have this here, you can't get your slide and getting it flush to where you need to cut it. So if you want to really cut flush on the especially using a cut off on the cutff having this and sometimes you want it flush and close to the material itself you notice that you have to actually bump it out cuz it's hitting this. So now having it having the material sticking out a little bit more versus having this is flush and I won't have that. And all I got to do is I can get this cut off cut off tool as close as possible to the jaws of the um on the trucks. So that's one of the biggest things. So all I did was modify it, cut it, and then I have three pieces. So, if I want to do real quick, just use this one. This one hold the butt end. If I need this, I'll use it on the back end on the freewheeling chuck. Put it on the back end to hold that grip on the queue, especially on the wood. Hold it a lot tighter. So, those are some of the things I use that I got from Chris on the care package. And if we go to this is what I was confused about, but this actually holds your calipers, which is awesome because my calipers, they're on this little container. And that's not probably the best way to keep your calipers. But I use this one, this little digital a lot. So I use this one here. All I do is put a little magnet here so that because this is magnetic on the back side and it doesn't really interfere with the front because it's all the way on the top and then it holds it a lot better because the thing is with these screws it bumped it out. It's not a flush where if this was flush with the material itself, the caliper holder, I probably didn't have to use this magnet. But with the magnet, as you can see, it floats and holds it perfectly. And then of course this one holds it a lot better because it has a little lip here and it has a lip here. But this is a little bit too small for this, but it still works. Normally it would be for this. I use this caliper also. This one's um the standard imperial. It's not um metric cuz I use this cuz it's a lot faster because if I need to do 5/8, I have 5/8 here. And I have to and then I don't have to do the math here because I am lazy and I have a cheat code because this tells me how many turns I need to do on the on the slides when I'm cutting stuff. So this will just give me 5/8 on a glance and if I need to do 1/8 and I have a 1/8 so on. So those are that's the biggest thing having a standard or imperial. But if you look at it it also holds it with a magnet. So that's how it look. So I just use it for this because this is my favorite because this is I could do all the math and it tells me really fast. So also received this from Chris. This is a where you use your dial indicator and then you would put this inside here. And the way you would use it is you put it on the bed of the slide and this will tell you how much movement you're actually moving from. from the slide itself to your to your um headstock. So that's one thing. And then you can do that instead of having the way I did it was actually putting a material in the back end and holding it with this and then pushing it against the back end and it gives me my my distance. I would never have to move my slide and I just move the the piece and then have this bump it and once it hits a bump that tells me the length and then I'll start cutting cutting off with the cut off. But that's not as accurate as this one cuz this will tell you exactly how far you need to move. So that's one of the biggest thing. So with this all this equipment I also been using a gun drill. You can use the gun drill with this equipment. So this is the gun drill. I bought this and this is how I am cing the cues now. So this is um a little bit longer than 18 inches. And with 18 in I get the full length of one one um one dowel 18 in long. And then that way I get the the forearm and the butt sleeve at the same time versus having it 12 inches, cutting it, and then boring the tails the the butt sleeve. But this is all at one shot. And probably the most important for this lay is having besides having a large forehead is actually having this. If you're going to start making cues, this is a motor that hooks up to the slide and you have to actually do some modification. You actually have to drill and tap it on the slide itself. But this will mount in here. And you have video I have videos on this where how to use this. Let me move this. I can tighten it. This is already set where this pinion does not hit the these gears and it does not hit the back side of the bed. So, this is a motor that moves this slide and automate automates it to move it back and forth as you move it on this way. This will move it to the left of the bed and then you move it this way. It goes away from the headstock. So, this is important if you're actually going to make cues. Some people use this to um just actually using it for u making rings or making joints. I do not do that because the thing is I don't have a automatically stop and if I'm not paying attention I have actually crashed this into the headstock and what the what damage it does is actually it messes up the teeth of the the pinion. So you'll go through these teeth. These teeth are very soft which is a good thing. You want this softer than these teeth. You want this permanent because you don't want to remove this on the bed. You rather buy this and just have spare parts of this because all you got to do is remove it from the the collet right here and then these teeth will these teeth will warp and then of course you got to get a new pinion and then from the rack itself. But I actually crashed this before and that was not a good thing. you know, hits this cuz I had it too close and it and it hit the the headstock and the teeth goes bad cuz this motor will just torque cuz it's all geared inside. So, it just has the torque to move it. So, that's one of the biggest thing. So, of course, you have the control with the speed. This is the power supply. And then, of course, if if it's plugged, I'll have it indicated on how fast I want it to go. I never got it all the way max. Normally I would have it because this is only um 12 volts and it's power supply is 100 volts to 240 volts AC but it goes up to 24 volts DC 3 to 24 and then you just control how fast this will move left to right. So that's one of the biggest thing if you're going to start building cues and you want to do with this you can actually do with this. Like I said, the big the big um big bore is really important because when I was looking at Lays and I called around and looked at prices on the internet, the biggest thing is why I went to a Mid-Americ versus the other ones on the market is customer service. And I actually spoke to Chris on the phone because he is in charge of uh Mid-Americ. He is the proud owner of Mid American Coulace because he bought it from Todd and Todd passed away. So biggest thing I like about this is one is the customer service. Two is when I was looking at the culates, Todd actually reached out to me. I text him and I called him, left an answer machine. He actually reached back. the other other person that I contact, he actually replied and like as this thing because they never asked for a zip code and all this craziness. He's like, "What's your zip code?" It was like not like, "Hey, I I know you're interested in LA. How can I help you?" Todd actually gave me that that warm and fuzzy feeling. And that's why I went with Todd and got a mid- American Kool-Aid because these are pretty much like from TAG because that's who actually pretty much makes these. So they always have that question is which ones what's the difference between the other Q maker and the Mid-Americ? And I would always say they're pretty much the same because the bed, the headstock, the the slide is from almost like from tag. So that's the biggest thing. If I'm pronouncing that wrong, it's T A I G, I believe. So they have all the parts. But Mid American QA, he Chris will make it and Todd is the one who made it. And biggest thing is I asked for the big the big bore and of course upgraded motor. This motor and power supply. This is like a 34s by I believe that's how how many horsepower. It's a pretty decent motor and one thing I like about it, it's a strong motor and I actually have um extra belts. I haven't This is the original belt for almost four years, but I actually have extra belts because if you're working on cues and your belt breaks, then you're out of actually out of service. But the with the power supply upgrade, it upgraded the power supply for this motor. And this has actually a pedal where you step on the pedal and you can control the RPMs of your um headstock of the motor from the headstock. So that's one of the biggest thing cuz cuz this one is not the power supply is um controls the speed of this headstock versus on the basic I seen it where you actually have to move the belt to get different RPMs on the headstock. So with that, you go to the power supply. This is what controls it. You have a little rotary dial and you control your speed. So you can see I'll turn this on. This is your main power. And this tells you which way you're going to go. So this one is turning counterclockwise as you can see. And you'll see how fast it goes from here. And normally you don't want to spin this without anything on the chuck is because sometimes these will actually loosen and it can come off. So that's why you don't really do you have to actually have something inside and actually tighten it. But this is what turns it. I just leave this to on when I'm working and I'll just have this on the neutral versus having it on because this is on off on. So this this dial moves it clockwise and this one will move it counterclockwise. So and then after that when I'm done then I just turn it off on the power supply itself. But I have a little dial indicator here. This tells me how accurate I am on my joint is when I'm putting a joint pin. making sure that joint does the joint pin doesn't move around and make sure it's stable. So, this is just hooked up to a magnetic. So, this is actually like steel. It holds the it's magnetic here, but the whole lay itself is really not magnetic. So, that's the only thing. This is all aluminum. So, this won't even stick here. So, you can see it'll stick here, but it won't stick here because this is aluminum. The whole base, the whole the whole um lay is aluminum. So, and that's one reason why I like the Mid-Americ is like I said was the customer service and what it what it can do. I done some cues with this. I made some shafts with this queue. You can actually do four point, six point, and eight point because this this right here are your indexes. So, I have my video where I hook up the router and you'll see the router cut and then with the taper, all you do is is adjust the taper and you guys should do your points. So, you can index this to your 12 your 12:00 and then rotate it to its 6:00 and then lock it in. I don't have the lock here cuz I put it in under. I'm just afraid if it slides all the way in and it could mess this up. So, that's why I don't have the lock here. I took unscrewed that. But like I said, you can do 12:00 and then bring it back to your 3:00, I mean 9:00, 6:00. That way you can actually have your four four points. And then if you index it, you can do a six point, you can do eight points. So that's one thing about having indexes here. But I removed that little lock so that it won't accidentally go in and I turn it on and it'll mess up all these little grooves. I have some glue marks here. All I got to do is get the razor blade, take those off. But what's the difference between a Q lathe, a metal lathe, and a wood working lathe? The biggest thing is, can a metal la cuz I started off with a metal lathe. Can a metal lathe actually do some joint work? Yes, it can. That's the biggest thing. It all depends on how big your your spindle bore is cuz they actually have some spindle boards where they actually have 1.5 where you can actually put the dowels in and actually do joint work because I like I said I started off on the metal lay and all I did was tips and some fererals. Are is it going to be as accurate as you get it? It can be because all you're going to do adjust your tail your tailtock to your headstock. That was the biggest thing is you can get this this um Qlay and actually do everything with it, but if you're not accurate from your headstock to your tailtock, then you're going your concentricity is what's going to kill it. Having the same concentricity and and making sure when you're drilling for your pin is having that as center as possible on the material itself on the queue. But can you do it on a metal leg? You can. Can you do work with a metal leg? You can, a lot of people use the metal light, but the only biggest thing is if you're going to get a metal light, you're limited because of the bed. If you get a 40 in, this is 40 in. The bed is 40 in long. And if you loosen this, this headstock can go all the way to the 40. And I can put this tailtock all the way to the 40. So, it'll be a little bit less than 40. But the thing is, you have all that room. And if you get a metal lay like an engine lay, metal lay, the longer the bed, the bigger the the lay, the more expensive it's going to be. That's one of the thing. Can you do it with a wood lay? Um not wood woodworking lay. I also done um I actually built a my a pool queue on a wood lay. And with the wood lay, the biggest thing is the with the wood lay, you have the bed, you have the length of the bed, but you don't have the big bore. You don't have the big board. Now that you replace the headstock, I didn't have the big bore where I actually put the dowel through it and do accurate accurate joint work because the thing is on the woodlay, you're actually just using it with a rest. So you can build a queue with a wood lay, but the thing is are how accurate are you going to be when actually putting the joint to the to the queue itself. Because on a wood, this is pretty much what a wood lay would look like because this is how I use the indentions on my jump cues and actually have that round end on the on the jump cues itself because I actually use this. This is actually for a wood lay and this is how I get my indentions. So, put it right here. This is how woodlay would work. You actually use this and then you would carve into your wood and you would get the taper. Can you do it? Yes. But are you going to be accurate on the joint? You probably can, you know, but it'll take you some time. But this one, like I said, as long as your headstock and tailtock is accurate, it's going to be really accurate. So that's why I actually like this a lot, having a professional um queue making lay from Mid-Americ. Like I said, I would been able to buy other other brands, but Todd, when I spoke to Todd and he reached out and says, "Hey, I know you're interested on the QA and these are your choices." And then he actually spoke to me. He his number was there. And Chris will do the same. That's one thing. Chris can give you guidance on what's the difference between your basic and your large large borehead. Or you can get a large borehead and just have the basics. Because the thing is, do you actually need two tailtocks? Now, this doesn't come with two tail socks. It has it comes with one tail socket. I just use it with the drill. And this actually extra chuck when I think the basic has three jaws versus four jaws. And the thing is this is this the only thing is with this four jaw. I wish it was independent like on a metal lane where one jaw moves at a time. This actually moves uh together as a one unit. when you put it together. So, and then that's how it will close. So, you'll use this both and then it'll tight in. This is actually modifi um um extra. It comes with this. It came with one and I just bought the extra because the thing is you crank down the wood. This actually helps. The other one's all bent up. So, that's one thing. So, see on a real on a true four jaw, even on on the metal, you'll actually be able to um move the jaws independently to the chuck. That's one of the biggest difference. On the metal jaw, you can move one ch one jaw in, one jaw in, another jaw, another jaw. And that's how you're going to get centers on your bearings. Like if you watch a lot of the videos, you'll see how they're getting concentricities and how they're getting it centered is they're moving one jaw in at a time. They'll move one jaw out and then rotate it and then of course with the dial indicator and then they can get that dead nuts. They call it dead nuts and it's very true. So that's one thing on the Mid-Americ. And also comes with this part. This has a little grommet like a collet inside. I'll move this. It has a split. That way when you put the shaft in here, it has different diameters. What I actually did also is actually used double-sided tape. Carpenters double-sided tape. What they use for for carpets, not carpenter, carpets. It's um it's really strong and it holds this inside so that the free will. So this is where you would use this is for just your regular chuck. I would just use this when I'm using changing tips because when I have to change tips, I don't have to lock this one. I can just push it in cuz I don't need the accuracy. All I just need to do is change the tip out, remove the tip, put a new tip on, and clean it up. Because the thing is you don't want to touch up the fereral and sand down the fereral. A lot of Q makers, the ones that start will sand down the fereral and change the tip diameter and I don't like doing that. So this one, like I said, this one is this one is just for expedient. You just put it in, work on the tip, put it out. But if I'm like doing the fererals, joint work, anything with the joint work, I'll be using this this to hold the back end. This is like probably the most important is actually holding the back end is not flopping around because if you seen my other videos on the metal a I actually used a tailtock two tailtocks and put this tail stock to hold hold the material so it doesn't flop around. That's one one big advantage. Is it worth getting the professional large borehead um qlay like the mid- American clays? I think it's it takes a big advantage of it because if you go with the basic you're going to be limited because later you would want to try to make a queue and you'll be able to make a queue cuz I I wanted to see if I was able to make a que and I actually tried it and I actually did it you know because there's a lot of a lot of companies out there like Prather I'll give credit that will get you your points if you don't know how to do points and that's how I started because I still don't know how to do points but the thing is Prather, you can get their four um the pre-made forearms and you can get the points already. And if you shim Macki, they actually make full splice cues. If you don't have all the materials to make a full splice queue because you have to use a band saw and a table saw to get the jigs and getting the angles correct, you can't. And then this will give you the finished product. That's one thing I like about it. I always give credit to where I get the wood on if I get it pre-made. Like I said, if I get a prather pre-made, I'll tell them, "Hey, I got this from Prather, but I build the back end. This this um full full spice cubes is from Shmecki." Like this cube like one of one of the cubes I made also from Shmecki. But the thing is you can get the full splice cube and you give credit to who made the blank. Like I always give credit to make who makes the blank because the thing is if you don't give credit to him, you're pretty much just stealing the material. But the thing is if if you have a queue like this one, a new queue and give you an update on it since you probably have it on the videos and you saw them on my live cuz I actually made this from this display this lay. So you can see this one is a cord queue. This is a This is a purple heart inside and having this pin. I changed this pin took this pin out. Uh I took the pin out three times. First is a brass pin. Not brass pin, a copper pin. It was a copper pin. I didn't like it cuz it's too front heavy. With this with this, I was able to remove it with the heat gun and not destroy the material with the heat gun. Loosen up the epoxy. Then once I got the epoxy, moved it and then drilled it. You can see how how center it is because you're keeping your centers and you're getting that concentricity. That's the biggest thing and you're getting that that accuracy. So different phenolic and then another phenolic and this is ebony the gaboon ebony with a gaboon ebony. We all know ebony is is heavy and very dense, but having it bored out with the gun with the gun drill and I was able to do it with this with this lathe using this gun drill. All I hooked it up with a small compressor, open up the valve to a certain um flow and get my vacuum cuz I did it inside the house and normally I'll do them outside and I have videos and videos that on my Facebook where I actually use the gun drill and I was able to core this out. I took all the ebony out and is three like this is a 34s and I actually got Hollywood. This is this is Holly Holly. So you can see this was a one piece 18 in. So you can see how the grains all are continuous. There's really no grains, but you can see how it looks. It's all one continuous piece versus having a small piece of holly, another small piece of a holly, another small piece of holly and putting it together. This is actually what went continuous. So this is Holly and I made all the rings and you can see how accurate the rings are all the same diameter. That's the biggest thing. I make my own I made my own rings. So this is a fiber ring and then this is a nickel silver then aegis with the Aegis. I actually had to, like I said, move this headstock to a certain distance. Move the tailtock to hold it for security. It never moved the the slide. Then once I move the material in and holding it from the back cuz it bumps into here, that gives me my distance of how much I need to cut it. And I could actually that's before I started using a dial indicator. But that's how I got my um my the white the white rings as accurate as possible because these are all the same height to make it look like they're not different diameters. That's the biggest thing having different having different sizes. So did the ages and then it continues to four rings. You can see it. Of course I signed it and then it goes to the butt sleeve. So this butt sleeve and this ebony is the same. So this that way it's continuous. You could really you can't really see the joint but this is and then of course the butt cap and I tapped it with the with this lay to tapped it to accept a predator bumper. So that's one thing I like about doing that. You can actually like you can actually make the queue from start to finish. You can make the queue from this from this machine. So you can have your the Q bututts and a lot of people too is they you can actually have different different shafts. You don't have to make your own shafts because a lot of people they'll just they'll ask how much how much is it to just make the butt because the the shaft we all know is like really like 90% of the queue itself with the shaft. That's why I don't really I'll change Q's out. This is like every since I bought my lay. I had a queue every year since 2000. I bought this lay 2021 and then I had my first queue. Then 2022 had a different queue. 2023 and another queue. 2024 different Q. And then of course now this is 2025 and I have another Q. I keep saying I'm going to stick to one Q. But note it what it does it also makes you more proficient. like you'll build your cues and then you'll grow from it. You want to know what your limits are because the thing is you'll have it from a from a simple Mary Jane Q now like my goal is actually to make points because now I know how to make core cues. I'm going to do points. So, and of course the shaft you can actually make shafts from this la too. There are videos on how how to actually make shafts because you can get your 30 inch uh squares one inch by one inch by by 30 and actually make a shaft. This came off my CNC but for the taper but you like I said you can actually get blanks. I had a lot of blanks from Shmeikei and I'll turn them. That's how I started u turning first on the um to make my shafts because once you make your shaft and then you like your shaft you pretty much keep it because the thing is this will give you a consistency is the shaft. It's not the Q butut the Q butut just gives you the like they always say it's like 10% but it's your tip the the how the front end is built if it's low deflection with deflection the fereral itself and of course your joint. And this one had, like I said, this one had weight a weight in the back. So that this is actually heavier than the front end. Even um for wood is really light, but the weight balance is a lot heavier on the back end versus the front end because that's where the deflection is. and having having the accuracy of your tailtock to your headstock cuz and of course um forgot to mention if you're going to do joint work is actually having carbide carbide drills. That's probably the most important that makes a big difference versus having high-speed steel or any other coating and all that is purchase some carbide, 100% pure carbide because this does not walk. So, what that's the biggest thing. This will never walk on you. It'll it's as accurate as as it can get. But the thing is accuracy for drilling a hole on any material. If you ask any person that use a lay is actually boring. But the thing is this will give you that start then you get your um bore to actually get a different size because on on threading especially putting a pin in they have different bore sizes. But thing is I actually like I said I built this shaft and and thing is having an accurate drill that does not walk because this this drill is actually drilled into the front end is so my front end are hollow up to this point because that's how far my drill is and I drilled it to this size. That's why when I build my wood shafts I'll tell them I'll never go lower than um 12 127 because this is this is um 516. So having this all cred out this makes it brittle and already you don't want this already cracking. That's one of the biggest thing. So of course I have two different ball American taps cuz I use ball American 38 by eight. This one all the way it gives it all the way to the front. This one just is your starter. But I like this one a lot. But I take care of these because these are like very important. Another another thing is also when you're making cues that helps a lot is getting accuracy. A lot of people won't you won't see these but I'll I'll share with you guys. This is like a must must to me. It's a must because this is what we call a sanding mandrel. This is also carbide. This This right here gives you your outer diameter of your queue and your shaft. So, I have two different sizes. This one's at 845 and this one's at 840. So, so that's how I could get my exact measurements. So, so you get the exact, like I said, you get the exact measurements. So, this is how it looks. This is the sanding mandrel. What means is you actually sandpaper on this and this material will not be sanded. So, you'll be sanding the wood itself or the CA, the super glue. It's I forgot how to actually say, but we call it CA or super glue cuz this is what the finish is on the all my cues are is the super glue and this one also. But this gives you your exact measurements on the on the shaft. So this will give me 840 on the shaft and then of course on the butt. This will give me also 840. So it gives it that flush and then it gets it really close. And then of course you just put super glue super glue on both sides. Then you can and then with this lay big advantage is it'll hold the the butt and I'll use this. Put it in the front end and I'll have the shaft. And then I have I'll have the shaft and the butt together. Then I can actually just lightly sand it and get it that flush that flush um feel. You don't have a step. That's like one of my biggest pet peeve is actually having a step between the shaft to the butt is the butt is is smaller than the the queue, then it'll have a bump going this way and then or the shaft is bigger than the queue and then you have a bump going this way. That's like my biggest pet peeve. So is actually having it the same diameter. So my my cues are 840s and it's flush. And then that way my shafts are 840s and they're flush. I don't have a lip or a step on the queue. So, so these are some of the materials I some of the items I use a lot is when I make my cues to make your cues to start making cues like the sanding mandrels of course the carbide drill bits and moved on to the gun drill for boring and having accurate um calipers and accurate um dial indicators. But this is pretty much what I have for the Mid American Q. I just gave this review of this long-term use of this Mid American Qite. Hopefully, this video is informative. If you haven't already, hit the subscribe button, hit the like button, and leave a comment down below. Thank you for watching and see you next time. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe me. Don't forget to thumbs up. Bye-bye. I just gave this review of this long term.