Join me for a session with bouldering beginner, Becky, who has been climbing consistently for under a year and still considers herself to be a newbie climber. For this session, we focussed on some beginner bouldering projects at @theclimbinghangaruk in Sheffield. Becky runs a successful instagram page which details her beginner climbing progression and journey. Her focus is not taking climbing too seriously, and having fun! Her posts embody finding the joy in climbing, and not focussing too much on grades or sends.
00:00 Meet Reebs.climbs 00:25 How did Rebecca get into climbing? 02:17 Boulder 1 for Rebecca: pushing her grade into blues at The Climbing Hangar 04:25 Thank you to Squarespace 05:30 Facing fear on the blue route 08:27 Hannah tries a slabby project! Trusting feet on slab 12:00 The psychology of climbing | Parrallell processing 12:36 Learning how to mantel as a beginner 16:18 Dynamic co-ordination boulder project 17:26 Fear in climbing | a method to deal with scary moves and holds 23:37 Wrap up of the session!
This video is sponsored by Squarespace, our go-to for managing our online commerce business.
Hello everyone, welcome back to another video. Today we are at Sheffield Hangar and I am with
a guest. This is Rebecca or Reebs Climbs. We have never climbed together before, this is our first
time meeting. We're going to go round some of our project level grades at the Hangar. I used to be
roller derby player and it was one of the sports that sort of went out of the window with the
pandemic and with lockdown and everything and I was really missing the adrenaline rush from doing
that. One of my friends just in 2020, she just invited me to go bouldering with her and I was
like okay yeah I'll give that a go and then I just remember climbing like a really easy thing. I
didn't know about start holds and I didn't know about end holds and grades or anything like that
I just sort of got up to the top and I was just like oh the adrenaline rush, it's the same
adrenaline rush. This could be it, this could be the sport for me. So I was quite fit in 2020
because I've been like sort of regularly training and then I found it physically a lot easier to
sort of like get up the roots. So I used to go quite a lot, I was going sort of three times a week
and then in 2021 I moved away from where I was living into a place that didn't have any
climbing gyms and I started my doctorate which is obviously quite intensive and so that means
that I had to like you know put the climbing to one side a little bit and then like focus on the
work. In the past year I've only managed to climb maybe once a month and I've definitely noticed
a bit of a regression in my level but in the past four months a new gym has opened
and I've been able to go sort of consistently twice a week now and I've definitely noticed
my confidence has gone up, my techniques have gone up, I've got new shoes and that's sort of
making my technique better and the sort of consistency of my climbing. It's not you know
massive jumps or anything but it's like a nice slow consistent development in my skill and it's
really nice to just be able to see that like with the work and the determination and the commitment
that like there is progress like even if it's small I think it still counts.
So the project is a hangar blue, I don't know what the grade is, I'm getting about
two-thirds of the way up maybe even three-quarters of the way up and there's a bit where there's not
a very nice hold and it's not juggy and I'm too scared to use it to bring my feet up because I
sort of feel like I'm tipping backwards and it's not super pleasant so that's where we're at with
that one. That's it yeah yeah that's my previous high point and I know what I need to do because
I've just seen someone do it and I think it's psychology I know I could probably make the move
happily yeah I'm too scared to make the move. My change is that I went quite far right on the
hold with my right hand and it's like guppy it that's not a guppy that is that guppy I don't
know I think that's a guppy I've learned a new word guppy like the side so I was using like my
palm and my fingers maybe I should go up and see if I can put my full weight on my left foot yeah
don't necessarily need to reach for it no but I can see if I can yeah break it down. So before we
get into the bulk of the project's video I wanted to take this section of the video to talk about
Squarespace and our Squarespace shop and recent restock. So this section of the video is sponsored
by Squarespace but Nathan and I genuinely love using Squarespace for our merch business and I've
been using Squarespace pretty much since the beginning to keep all of my written content
and photography in one place. What I really love about Squarespace for our shop was how easy it was
to create a sleek design with their box builder style templates and how easy they make keeping
Features which have been really useful for Nathan and I are the low stock alerts to let us know when
we're running low on stock and also the back in stock alerts for customers who want to know when
out of stock items have come back in stock. So if you'd like to check out Squarespace head to
squarespace.com forward slash hannah morris and then use the unique code hannah morris for 10%
off your first purchase of a website or a domain. Okay so I'm gonna try it again because Hannah
and has informed me that they are pristine and the plan so if I was to think of an active plan
I'm just going to try the same thing which is to put my full weight on my left foot
and take my right foot off the hold so I can see what that feels like yeah so not necessarily
trying to get anywhere further but just to see what it's like to wait differently yeah
oh god no I feel like
it's just it's just fear if I'm being honest yeah yeah I think even though the drop knee
looks like it gets your hip close to the wall it takes what is quite like a square and straight
into quite a like a potential for a barn door yeah yeah yeah yeah um so I think that's a no
from me um and I do think that like so uh one of my there's a coach at my home wall and he often
says work on your most limiting factor and my most limit my most limiting factor at the minute
is fear right um so I actually think that I've got the strength I think that I've got the technique
yeah I'm just scared I think I was doing I was doing it wrong though because I was aiming to
put my foot off but I saw the other person do it and the way you did it is that you didn't
you reached first yeah and then put your foot on um yeah I think that would be the next thing
is I'm already scared to take my hand off yeah and just be yeah um but that's okay like I feel
like that's progress progress progress uh like never in my dreams did I think that I'd be doing
a blue yeah or projecting a blue at the hangar so absolutely strong enough my first project I
picked up this purple slabby climb behind me slab is typically something that I stay away from a
little bit because I find it difficult to trust my feet um and this one looks like you definitely
have to be able to trust your feet so at the top you have to like match in on a little
how would you describe that hold a little like nubbin a nubbin um and it's not really good
enough to like get anything on I think you have to be established on your feet and balanced to
like touch it but the top of the wall was like right there so I just like saw an opportunity and
like bailed out onto the top but I feel like there's definitely a theme emerging I was like
I think I was capable of doing that but I let my brain win okay how did that feel eyes closed
moment of finding the point of balance like at one point I had like both my hands off the wall
I was just using my like core and my hips to like stabilize myself
and I just tried not to think about my feet and be like because I'm not moving them I'm not doing
anything with them I'm not trying to like switch their position or like I didn't need to think
about them I was just thinking about balance and core isn't this weird that sometimes we
have to really think about our feet and sometimes we don't really have to think about our feet and
in psychology we call this parallel processing so like it's the ability to be able to hold
multiple processes in mind at the same time and it's sort of like so you're aware of your feet
but you're also aware of what your hands are doing you're also aware of your hip placement
and it's sort of like how much can you hold on to in your mind at the same time
which is a kind of tricky concept because it takes like quite a lot of conscious awareness
project number two probably got chalk on my face now that's okay
the black and the pink roots at the hangar are the aim is I think I think to teach you
to do a specific movement or a specific thing a specific goal and this one quite handily says
mantle so I have tried this before I've tried it last week tried it on Monday
um I'm too scared to commit again scary um so we can just see see what happens shall we
yeah nice that wasn't right bring the right foot back down put the left foot up higher
oh yeah I see okay one minute yeah yeah yeah nice leg press yeah yeah and then twist the
left knee towards yeah yeah yeah there you go there's no flexibility there
oh it feels very unstable oh nice yeah yeah you got it um it's almost like you're angling
your body a certain way for maximum efficiency yeah um I just think that I guess if I was to
think of the limiting factor at this point it probably would be flexibility in my hips
um I don't do enough yoga um oh she got it yeah come on really press on the arm press on the arm
getting yeah yeah yeah I'm too scared to take my foot off my left foot yeah oh wait go on
yeah yeah yeah then what yeah press press press press yes yes yeah I think that's gonna be a no
but that's okay yeah I feel like the setup like the the way your feet were and the like direction
you're pressing it's like perfect it's just the the hamstring the flexibility yeah that's okay
that's good it's not my fault then is it well suppose it isn't my fault but I can I can consider
it a limiting factor and then work on it yes cool so I'm on folder number two which is this purple
I think it's dynamic like I'm reading it as a dynamic catch but I've just watched someone do
it quite statically and typically I tend towards static climbing methods over dynamic climbing
methods so I'm gonna try and make myself do it dynamically beautiful a lovely heel hook at the
end thank you yeah I feel like any any opportunity to get like a high heel or toe I'm like I'm there
so I don't know if I mentioned yet on this video but I'm a trainee clinical psychologist
and prior to that I worked for eight years as a CBT therapist and currently I'm working with
children and what we do sometimes when we want to externalize a problem so say you know they're
suffering with like OCD or something is that we might externalize that by naming it uh the OCD
so my fear is this hold so I'm going to externalize it and call it
Barry and there's no technique involved here I'm just going to go for it and see what happens
what's the thinking behind that is it being able to yeah what's the thinking behind it
naming something so I mean I wouldn't maybe necessarily do it with adults but with children
it's it's sort of teaching the child that their anxiety or their issue isn't them like it's
something that they have and that and that's maybe affecting them in a certain way but it's it's not
part of their personality and it doesn't need to be because sometimes people are going to be
thinking oh like this is this is me and I'm going to be stuck with this for the rest of my life and
that's not helpful um for a child so sometimes we like to externalize the problem um and that
way we can sort of join forces to like work against it together so essentially I'm recruiting you
to help me get past Barry because he looks awful um and overhangs are not my strength so
let's see what happens I'm stuck on Barry um I don't want to stay hanging around on him too much
if I'm honest um I think it's one of them where I'm gonna have to like yeah just move um because
he's not very good to hold on yeah um whereas the next movie's a really nice jug um so I think I
think I could do that um also I swung I sort of like cut loose a little bit um which is strength
sapping isn't it so I wonder if there's a way that I can maybe avoid yeah doing that it's good
I'm too scared I'm too scared to do it I think it was similar issue with the drop knee did I
actually do a drop knee I actually don't know if I did I thought you did um yeah I thought you did
I feel like it yeah because I feel like it got me closer it's just letting go
yeah and Barry is not a good thing not good but then that's the point isn't it it's teaching you
to be less reliant on a jug and more reliant on something that's less juggy um I think I can do
it I'll just commit I think I'll just commit give me a minute and I'll commit also you've
got spent you've got quite a bit of space on the top of Barry I wonder if you could bring in your
left hand to meet your right hand yes and then you've got less far to go with your right hand
like the gap's smaller but it might not feel as good it's like it's like you know when you have
to like build your confidence in not being perfectly 100 certain yeah that's again another
psychological concept is tolerating the uncertainty which I struggle with yeah so um I think I've got
to tolerate the uncertainty and just do it just do it okay if I fall off I've not actually fell
off yet today yeah and I feel like someone once said to me you're not trying hard enough if you
don't fall off which I disagree with I'm trying really hard I should just go for it actually I
think somebody said that to me in roller derby not climbing like if you don't fall over you're
so we'll take that philosophy
it's really good yeah it's good it's good it's good you've got it you've got it yeah come on
oh god you zoomed in you zoomed in on the sense what changed commitment just you know what I was
thinking I've got on a drive home for an hour and I was thinking I'd be annoyed at myself
huh make the last one make the last one exactly make the last one a good one um
yeah because I'd be set furious with myself on the whole drive why didn't you commit to it so I
just I just did yeah I'm happy with that what a nice way to end the session it always makes me
really like Wallace and Gromit face like I'm always so so happy when I've been trying something
for ages and it's you know it's not the most advanced of grades it's like an orange I don't
for me I feel like because you like broke that fear barrier that's like
huge progression yes and the adrenaline I've got it it's going doing things so I hope you enjoyed
that session with me and Becky I had a really cool time I feel like we worked on cool projects
you got your project at the end which is amazing way to end the session how did you find it um
that was so fun like do you know what like sometimes I come climbing and definitely spend
a lot of time chatting I mean we've done a bit of chatting today haven't we in between climbs so
um but I like that aspect of climbing as well um I think um it was really nice to send something
at the end there um and also it was really nice to make incremental progress on the things that
were a bit more difficult for me um and I think probably the most beneficial beneficial thing
is just having the chance to sort of stop and reflect about about a singular move yeah um
like isn't something you often do um so just yeah being able to give the chance to reflect on it and
even just something so small as foot placement um that was valuable too so thank you yeah you're
very welcome I definitely feel like I learned a lot from you really yeah from the like psychological
breaking down like I do a lot of breaking down boulders move by move like the physical
the physical parts of boulders but not so much I kind of like why is this a stopper for me in my
head um I tend to do less of that or I have like less of a vocabulary to be able to like
explain what's going on with my I'm really glad I'm glad maybe next time we'll do the whole
psychology yeah I feel definitely I feel like there's a lot to learn I'm sure there's a lot
that people would find really interesting about psychology and climbing so thank you very much
for thanks for having me humoring me coming along and I will leave links to Becky's social media
down in the description so do go and check her out there's some amazing content over on
Reeves.climbs is that right Reeves.climbs Reeves.climbs yes and I'll see you in my next video
bye