名厨马库斯·沃宁的花园厨房Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden S01E05中英字幕（2022）

Over the last year I have dedicated more of my time on my East Sussex smallholding and my labours are starting to bear fruit. The kitchen garden is growing in abundance. New arrivals like the pigs. How are you doing ladies? Got some food, come on. And the chickens have made themselves right at home. There's something about having chickens on a farm that actually makes it all worthwhile. But with still so much to do I'm as busy as my honeybees. Come on, come on Ezzie. You going swimming? Come on then, let's go. This way, come on. Dog never listens to me. At the bottom of the smallholding there's a pond that takes a bit of maintenance. So today I'm jumping in at the deep end. I've had a massive amount of bulrushes grow this year and if you don't control them they just keep coming back in, you know, stronger each year. Never in a million years would I ever see myself pulling up bulrushes. Ten years ago life wasn't like this. I was completely head down in too many restaurants, too many things going on in central London. This is quite cool though, I like this. I love the pond but something is definitely missing. I love ducks, it just adds to the family, it just adds to the farm. I think they're going to be great. I don't know anything about rearing ducks but local breeder Tom has popped over to give me some advice and he's not arrived empty-handed. A floating duck house will give the ducks a safe place to nest. What is that for? That's for the anchor and this will go up from underneath. Before we float the duck house I want to know a bit more about these birds. I know what I've had in my kitchens before and I know what I've cooked. I don't know if this is going to be for breeding, just for the eggs or for the table. Obviously if you've got ducks in there you're going to need to, especially if they're laying, you're going to have to check it daily. Really? Yeah, you're potentially going to come down say in a week's time and get a dodgy egg. Right, well this is narrowing it right down now. A pond isn't ideal for real young stuff. They've got to grow a bit, feather up, so that they've actually got some sort of protection from that water. What happened to them if I did put them on there? They could well sink. Obviously at four weeks they still haven't got full feathers in any way, shape or form. So potentially they wouldn't necessarily sink but they could get themselves waterlogged and cold. In all my time of cooking I've never heard that before. You're at the other end of it though aren't you? That is it and you just hit the nail on the head there. I am at the end product. Now I want to be at the beginning. I want to be at the start and this is what this is all about. Yeah. It's a top tip. Yeah. Can't swim. I won't be keeping ducks for their eggs but their meat is delicious. It's a question of do I want to eat them? Someone who does want them for dinner is Mr Fox. A floating duck house should reduce that risk. Foxes can swim but don't like getting wet. A bit like myself. Of course a bit heavier now everything's on it. To keep the duck house in the middle of the pond we have to sink its anchor. So gardener Anatoly has come to lend a hand with a bag of heavy stones. You're not coming in? Push me off if you're not coming in. I'll push you off. The good thing is it floats. It floats. Might suggest a boat upgrade maybe? Yep. I think if you drop your weight somewhere there it's about central. I'm not being funny. This ain't happening this. How am I going to get that out of there? Stop like that. I'm just wondering whether or not we might need to rethink how that weight gets off that boat. I'm a chef not a sailor but I know how scales work. Too much weight on one side and I'm heading for a ducking. That's it. The only thing is Marcus is that you want to go further back up the pond a little bit. Oh that's easier said than done isn't it? Standing over there. It is quite right. Well now you're wet anyway we might as well get it in. Can you stand up there though? No. Tell you what though it's really nice isn't it? Is it? Problem I've got. I'll take your word for it. Time for plan B. Right so I lift those stones out put them onto the edge and just walk the whole thing out. Walk it around the outside and then just try to push that last bit in the middle. Just try and do that. That's a good plan. As you're already wet. I didn't think ducks would be so... So much hard work. Hell I want to get this in the middle. If you just go straight towards the other bank we're roughly in the middle. A quick dive below to adjust the anchor and my floating duck palace is finally in the right place. I'm so pleased I said I'd stay out here. You enjoyed that didn't you? So what though? I did it. Yeah and it looks good. I'm not going to say we did it. No, no, no that's fine. You're both right. Yeah that's fine. Well now you've got to make a decision of what sort of duck you want in it. But to make the right choice I need more information. I'm just on my way to Devon to meet Chris and Holly. They are a small duck breeder but they're also experts in the field. And what I need is I need a little bit of understanding of what it is I'm looking for. What can work for me on my pond? Chris and Holly are taking me to see a breed they think will be perfect for my pond and also taste delicious. I can hear them. I've arrived just as they need to get the new day's hatch out. I have to say they look absolutely fabulous. How old are they? Day old today. Just today? Yeah, yeah they're straight from the hatchery. They actually look bigger. Their little fibre's so tall. So these are peaking crosses which give you the big white ducks that you see. And how many's in a box? About, what is it, 100? Yeah, 100 in a box. Do you count them? No. So how do you get them out? Is it like chickens where you just tip them out? Yeah, yeah. So you just gently tip them over the side. And off they go. What age duck do I need? Mine are going to have to go straight onto a pond. You'd probably want them five weeks old I reckon. So they've got a bit of feather cover. They'll be ready for the elements. Chris and Holly have five-week-old peaking cross ducklings in another barn which they feed on a mainly corn-based diet. Just be careful we don't get 12 tonne of food on our head. You can pull that, who won't? And come feeding time the older birds are hungry. Enough? Originally from China, peaking ducks have an upright carriage making them walk like penguins. Every time I think of a peaking duck I think of it hanging in the window of a Chinese restaurant. Look at them, they really do waddle don't they? Yeah, yeah. I love the peaking's character but I need a duck that can look after itself and thrive on my pond. Is this all they eat? Apart from what they find naturally when they forage if they find worms or slugs and things like that? Especially after it rains. So on a pond that's a good place for them to be wandering around and they'll be happy there? Yeah, yeah. They'll find loads of bugs, flies, whatever they can find. And they'll eat that? They'll eat, yeah, yeah. When I get them back to the farm how will the ducks know that that floating house is their home? Make sure that they've got lots of food they've got lots of water drinkers in there. Keep them shut in for the first couple days so that they know that that's their new surroundings that's where that, you know, that's their home. Maybe for the first few nights, shut them back in. Okay. You're getting them into a new routine. I suppose the question is, how many do I get? Maybe three, three or four, see how you get on. If you put a lot of ducks on a pond they produce a huge amount of muck. Yeah, we're not painting a very good picture, are we? Well, it sounds like they're going to wreck the place. They will. That's guaranteed. They'll bring you so much enjoyment. They are very inquisitive, they're very cute. I've got a friend of mine that the ducks walk up tap on their kitchen window and walk in. Well, like with anything, they'll gather their own personality and yeah, they'll be a joy to have. While I continue helping Chris and Holly at my East Sussex smallholding Anatoly is on the pond preparing the duck house. When my ducks arrive, they need to know this is their new home. A plentiful supply of duck food will help them settle in. Back at Chris and Holly's, I think the Peking duck could be the right breed for my pond. But as a chef, taste is always the most important consideration. Chris and Holly rear their ducks for two weeks longer than most commercial farmers. It almost looks like it's smoked. Yeah. I love that lovely little yellow tinge that it's got. It's amazing. Yeah, and you can see the meat's so much darker as well. And they are pretty big, aren't they? A lot bigger. You cooking or me? You cooking. I thought as much. When the breast starts to shrink it's the sinew that's pulling the meat together. And so by scoring it, it releases it and allows it to relax. You can see there was no oil in that pan and that's literally within a minute. You've got that already and that's by slicing the skin. There's hardly any spitting going on at all which says there's very little water in the fat itself which is a good sign. Let's gently turn those over. They look good already. Yeah, a bit more salt. And now what we're going to do is we're just going to take that fat and baste it over back on top so just constantly adding the duck fat flavour. Duck fat is the best. I'm going to go first. Certainly looks good. Oh my goodness me. That has to be the tenderest duck breast I think I've ever eaten. Straight from the pan. And it should have a little bit of chew to it. There's zero. That's unbelievable. Do try. Try, try, try. Thank you. What do you think? Amazing. It's lovely. Isn't it? What's this down to? It's down to you two. The way you look after them, the process, that extra two weeks has made a huge amount of difference and you get that amazing, amazing fat content on top. I'll put that in my restaurant. Thank you very much. It's delicious, really good. Chris and Holly's Peking ducks definitely fit the bill for my pond and I've ordered three. But while I wait for them to arrive, there's plenty to get on with back at my small holding. While the kitchen garden is the heart of the project, I want to discover what other produce I can harvest. My neighbour Sarah runs a small business turning foraged wild fruits into jams and pickles. As someone who's never picked a blackberry before, I'm excited to see what we'll uncover. So here are our blackberries, ripe juicy ones here. Well they start ripening up around July and then they carry on. After September they're not so good. It's said that the devil spat on them after that. Really? There's some truth in it. Yeah, they tend to go a bit sort of mouldy and waterlogged. They're just not as tasty after that. There's loads, there's so many. But you can actually use, even the ones that feel a bit firm and underripe and sharp, which I'm sure you've done before, but you can pickle them. Yeah, yeah. They're good for picking and scales. And actually the slightly underripe ones are quite nice and boost too because it just adds a bit of sharpness. What typical are we discussing here? Anything really. Blackberry whiskey, blackberry vodka, gin. Whichever one takes your fancy. I think so, yeah. So how do we find what's safe and what's not safe when we're out here? Well identification is really important. Don't munch on a hunch. Don't munch on a hunch? Don't munch on a hunch. So if you're not sure, don't eat it. Exactly, exactly that. And there's lots of resources on the internet but you've got to get a good trusted resource, you know. There's some duffer information out there as well. There are apps, but they're not always correct. Sometimes useful as a guide, but actually books are the best way to learn. After years of hedgerow foraging, Sarah is an encyclopedia of what to pick and how to eat it. We've got a few elderberries there. You shouldn't eat them raw, but they contain some quite mild toxins but some people are more affected than others. Cooked elderberries, however, are safe to eat and Sarah has a basket of her produce for me to try. So what have we got there? So we've got some elderberry vinegar here. So this is just supermarket vinegar. If you made the vinegar yourself, it'd be even better. It's cooked elderberries. I feel like I'm having some medicine. It is quite medicinal. And then it's sweetened as well. I would say that's sweet, isn't it? Yeah. Sweetens out. Yeah. Great to finish a sauce with. That's really nice. Half of Britain's hedgerows have been lost since the Second World War to make fields larger for mass food production. Hedgerows are really, really important for wildlife and biodiversity. Their food and their habitat, their homes. This is a hawthorn and you can see its thorns there. Quite sharp thorns. You need to be careful of those when you're foraging. Can you eat this? Absolutely, you can eat it. Have a taste. It's got a slight fruity flavour, you might find it. It's like a kind of quite a dry, woolly apple, isn't it? Yeah. Not much taste. Not at all. Not, but we can make some nice things with it. What have you made? I've made some hawthorn ketchup, which is quite a sort of traditional recipe using... That's tasteless though. Well, you have to see what you think of this. Okay. So there's sugar in it, there's vinegar in it, salt and pepper and that's all. Looks like ketchup, doesn't it? That just comes from the berries. That's got a nice flavour, that's really good. I love the texture of it actually. Yeah. That'd be delicious on a burger. Absolutely, yeah, yeah. As a chef, this experience is opening up a whole new world of flavours and possibilities. Oh look, we've got a crab apple here. So dainty, aren't they? So small. We're getting hot right now, I'm going to take my coat off. Have a taste, see what you think. But it's got a real, you'll get the sour and the bitter, but it's got a real kind of complexity there that you don't really get in an eating apple. So for things like jellies and syrups and fruit leather, you've got a real flavour. Wow, that is so sour. How can something so small pack such a punch? That's well thought for you. Something else which could pack a punch is Sarah's crab apple vodka. See what you think. That's really good. It's a clean apple flavour, isn't it? I have to say, you've absolutely nailed that one. Sarah's tipple is definitely something to celebrate and so is having my very own wild kitchen larder right here on my doorstep. I've seen my small holding from a whole new perspective. My kitchen garden is also proving bountiful with an abundance of vegetables to feed me and my family. In particular, I've got a bumper crop of beetroot. There's something quite special about growing your own. You start off a year ago with a little packet of seeds, then you plant them out and then before you know it, you've got this abundance of beautiful beetroot. Next year, I will plant a few different varieties to give me successive harvests throughout the season. And they're not perfect, but large ones, we've got small ones, we've got ones that have been eaten away. There's only so much I can do with this. There's so much of it here. So I'm going to preserve some and I'm going to give some away. I have a destination in mind. The Forest Road Community Fridge is just one of a growing network across the UK. Morning. Wow, I've got quite a lot of beetroot and I believe this is the place to bring it. What's it all about? We opened up to avoid food waste. So we collect from local people and we collect from the supermarkets and we offer the food to anybody. And they come along and they can take what they want and just sort of put in a little donation to help with the running costs. Right. And everyone from local farmers to small allotment growers can donate their surplus. Would you like to pop those out on the table? Yeah. No matter how small it is. Say, for instance, you're going on holiday and you've got a couple of tomatoes that are perfectly good, a cucumber, there's nothing wrong with that. You can drop that off down to us and someone else in the community can then come and they can take any of the stuff. Will people use this? Is this because it's only going to go to waste? No, none of it will go to waste. Let me tip them in there. And a random carrot. Marvellous. There we go. Brilliant. That's amazing. Thank you. Thank you so much. Such a wonderful community idea. Part of the pleasure of growing something is knowing someone will enjoy eating it. And on my return to the smallholding, I have a delivery from Chris and Holly. Got my ducks. I've got my Peking duck in here. And as soon as it's alive, this will certainly bring the pond to life. That's for sure. Holly advised keeping the ducks confined to the duck house for a few days, just so they know this is their home. But first, I've got to get them in there. These guys are in here, but I can't put them in one by one. So I'm going to try and just put the basket on the side and then just open it up. So, can I get all my ducks in a row? Two in. Come on, get in there. We did it. Now they just have to stay in there for a couple of days. I hope they haven't seen chicken run. They've got everything they need in there now and I can hear them eating and drinking. Happy days. None of this would be possible, however, without the knowledge and generosity of friends old and new. I want to thank them with a special lunch, a British classic with a duck twist. Plamons is your classic cheese, your pickles, your hams, the salamis, but it's always based around pork. But my plamons, when you come to my farm, it's going to be based around duck. I'm preparing the duck in two different ways. The first one involves curing the breasts. These are my amazing duck breasts that I've already cured. These are for today, but I want to show you the process and the ingredients that I put into my cure. In here, I've got fennel seeds. First of all, we're just going to break down these seeds. Cure, basically, is a salt sugar mix that is there to draw out all of the moisture and to preserve the meat that you're curing. They used to do a lot of this in the olden days. Before we had fridges, that's how they preserved their meats. There we go. My cure is a mix of brown sugar, sea salt, the crushed fennel seeds, Chinese five spice, and some orange rind. Fruits always go well with duck. It's a great combination. Half the cure mix goes into the bottom of the dish and then the duck breasts. Then just tip the rest over the top. It's as simple as that. The key is to make sure it's completely covered. You've got a good layer of the cure underneath. You've got the rest of it covering the duck. No need to cook it. It's all about the curing. The duck goes into the fridge for two days so the cure can do its job. Now to my duck leg confit. In my pan here, I'm going to put these two beautiful jars of duck fat and we're just going to bring that up to temperature. Confit is food slowly cooked in fat at a low temperature so the meat remains tender. It's almost like sitting in a jacuzzi until you're nice and tender and soft but tastes good too. With the fat melting, the legs go into the roasting dish with aromatics like rosemary, bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Now just gently pour onto the tray my duck fat. You're not eating the fat. The fat is like it's a vessel to cook the duck and so you need all of it. Before it goes in the oven, the dish is covered in tinfoil. Thyme and a low oven will work their magic. After two hours, the delicious aromas from the oven spread right across my kitchen garden. You always know when the confit is ready and that's when the bone just pulls away from the meat without any tension whatsoever. Lift these out. All that's left for me to do is dress the confit with a little salt and some watercress and carve my cured duck breasts. There you go. Beautifully cured. You can just taste the gentle spices. Definitely taste a little bit of the orange peel as well but it's lovely and tender. There's also a nice firmness to it and the fat tastes delicious. To complete the dish, I'm adding some traditional ploughman accessories. We've got chutneys, we've got bread, cheese. What do you want? The confit, it's a classic. It's a classic French dish actually. So how do you like it? Yes, I like it. Very soft. Yeah. So we've got the breast meat which has been cured for 48 hours. Lots of flavour. It's very nice marbling. Yeah. So it's interesting having ducks around the place. They're characters, aren't they? Yeah, they are. Unbelievable. You can't have a farm not have ducks. These guys are without doubt characters. They're fun. They waddle along. Brilliant. It's a whole new world and you've got to look into detail. You're going to have problems and I've had a few problems along the way. Of course, the journey is only just beginning for me and I'm sure there's going to be some tough days on the horizon but I'm looking forward to that but I've got a lot of new friends that I can talk to for any help that I need.