名厨马库斯·沃宁的花园厨房Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden S01E04中英字幕（2022）

Until recently, my life revolved around Michelin-starred kitchens. But these days, I'm trying to slow down and broaden my horizons at my Sussex smallholding. This is something that I've never done before, venturing into the world of farming and growing. I'm a total beginner. Whoa! But that won't stop me getting my hands dirty, bringing in some new arrivals. This is when the farm really does start to come to life. And getting help and tips from some of Britain's best producers. Gently tip them over the side and off they go. You can eat every single thing there. Really? In the farming world, everybody loves to help each other. That's what I love about this new lifestyle. And with produce and livestock for inspiration. Certainly smells a bit different around here. I think they're definitely settling in. I've got plenty of tasty food to cook. Delicious. This just sings summer. Goodness. Oh, wow. Dream of moments like this, being a chef. And a local community to share it with. None of it will go to waste. New flavours, new ideas, new dishes. Yes, please. Wow! It's incredible. As I discover the secrets of the kitchen garden. At my smallholding in the Sussex countryside, there's always something that needs feeding, planting or harvesting. So an early start is often in order. I love coming out first thing in the morning, see what the garden looks like and just see what's growing. Sun's starting to break through the clouds. You come out and get some fresh produce. You start to think about what you're going to be making for the day. This morning, I've got a source in mind that's a firm favourite in our family. And to make it, I need to harvest a very special root. The freshness of horseradish is completely different to what you think it is when you buy it in supermarkets or in jars. And when you grow your own, it's just a little bit more special. You smell the richness and heat that's just coming off that horseradish. Probably a little bit on the young side, but that's fine because actually they have a slightly, slightly mellower flavour. The older they get, I always find the stronger they become. That's all I need. I'm going to leave the rest of it in and it'll just keep growing through the autumn and into winter. But the horseradish can wait, as I have my newly arrived chickens to tend to and pigs that need their wallow topping up. Now we're cooking. And my plans to expand the smallholding are not done yet. I'm really getting into this farming now. The place is coming to life. But there is something missing that I want to add to the farm. I want my own special breed of cattle on the land. Meat that I can share with my friends and family. There are already some cows on the smallholding. A herd of Friesians who belong to tenant farmer Stuart. So he's the perfect person to help me take that first step. I need some tips from you. Advice. What do I need to know? Don't laugh. I'm going to get some cattle. What do I need to know? I think the key thing is fresh grass. If you've got fresh grass going in every day, they're very likely to be healthy. Stuart moves his cattle every day to make sure they have fresh grass. And all that is needed is some simple fencing. This electric wire, is that it? They touch it once, twice, and they respect it. By moving that fence back every day, when they're walking past, you're checking that they're moving okay, they're not lame. You know when they're healthy. Moving the cows gives me the perfect opportunity to get hands on. Hop over. I'm sure I've turned it off. I've just got to make sure I can get them into the new part of the field. It's a relentless job, but I love doing this last job of the day. Very relaxing. We'll wind the fence back. They know what's coming, don't they? They know what's coming, so you'd better hurry up. Come on, guys. Don't be shy. There we go. Come on. Come on. They're obviously not hungry. It's probably me. Here they come. They're coming. That's all there is to it. Fresh grass. It's what they were made for. After spending every day with his herd, Stuart makes it look easy. But I want to push myself and bring something different to the smallholding. I do want a rare breed. I suppose I want something a little bit different. I know what I can get in a supermarket. Can I integrate a different breed into this field with yours? Yeah, that's perfectly doable, as long as they're eating grass. I want a really good flavour on the plate. Any recommendation? Well, there's two sides to it. There's the eating, the product, but we've got to get it to that stage. I'm thinking maybe something like a longhorn. Good marbling, good fat content. Yeah, and from my point of view, they're docile. They'll work a treat out here, won't they? Yeah, why not? I like the sound of them. Stuart might be after something relaxing, but I'm on a hunt for flavour. So I've come to Shropshire to see if the longhorn is the breed for me. We're going to see Sam, and Sam is a third-generation farmer. He's the man that's rearing the longhorn cows, and I want to know what makes them so special. When I think of beef, growing up with my family, oh, Sunday roast. It was always, always, always knackered. Cooked to an inch of its life. Since then, I've learned how to cook beef, but I still know almost nothing about keeping cows. I have to say, this is quite an undertaking for me. Chickens or herbs or pigs. But a cow or cows, that is a completely different thing. I'm a little bit nervous, if I'm honest. The longhorn is one of the oldest pure breeds in England. And back in the 17th century, it was used to pull ploughs around the farms of the north. But as a chef, what really excites me is the claim that this breed is what gave England its reputation for great roast beef. So Farmer Sam is taking me to get a close-up inspection to see if they're right for my smallholding. So you've not seen much of longhorns before. It's all a bit new to you. This is the first time I've seen a longhorn in flesh history, close up. They're a stunning animal. They are, incredible. The longhorn was one of the first breeds of cattle ever registered in the UK. But despite its history, it almost disappeared in the 1960s when beef was increasingly produced from grain-fed cattle. These went down to a few hundred animals. Really? We're now on 40,000, 50,000 animals. It's not a lot, but it's a lot more than it was. And they're increasing because they taste fantastic. What makes the meat taste so good? The fat quality is different to grain-fed animals. There's more omega-3 fat in there. So keeping them strictly on pasture-for-life diet enables them to have that really good fat at the end. To have a relaxed cow that's just chilling out, not stressed about losing its calf, not stressed about competition at a feed fence, that comes through in the meat at the end. Can we go and meet them? Hello, cows. They've probably just run off because they sense there's a chef in the field. Just come closer to me now. We'll just meander our way through to the bull. They will get to know you. Cows recognise up to about eight or ten people. Really? All right, Billy. God, he's huge. He's just sussing out what we're up to, aren't you, Billy? It's time to move Billy and the rest of the herd to fresh pasture. How are we going to do that? I'll just call them now. What? We'll see. Come on. See them all. Wow. The cattle call is definitely working. Now there's around 700 tonnes of beef charging towards us. Where do I go? Come on. Come on. Come on. Thank goodness Sam's here to wrangle the herd. God, when they come at you, that is just power. Isn't it? Wow. When you see them that close and they're obviously incredibly energised. My goodness. That was incredible. You seemed incredibly calm while I was sort of panicking inside. If you spend time with your cattle, you'll get to know them and you'll get to know their body language. So there's no point in me just putting a couple of longhorns on my field and not spending time with them and not going to see them. If you want to go with those cows on a regular basis, then it certainly pays to spend time with them. Back on my smallholding, Stuart is moving his cows too. Come here. With the help of sheepdog Jack. Come here. Leave him alone. That'll do. That'll do. Come on. That'll do. That's all the rest of cattle farming. Back in Shropshire, Sam and his wife Claire have gathered friends and family together for a cook-up. It's the perfect chance to see if the longhorn beef has the flavour I'm looking for. Sam and I have been tasked with grilling the rib. That is nice and I wouldn't expect anything less. That is beautiful. Right, let's get cooking. Great marbling, lovely colour. The marbling for me I think is probably one of the most important parts of good beef because that's the self-based thing. It's the moisture that holds within the lobe of meat itself. How does the marbling come about? If they grow too quickly, that fat just goes on the outside. For marbling to go within the meat, it's got to be grown somewhat more slowly. That's interesting. A spring in the centre of the steak tells me it's cooked to a perfect medium rare. Sorry, Dad. Right, I think this is ready to eat. Oh, that looks good. It does look good. Let's go and try it. Let's go. I like the bark like everything else. It's certainly got flavour. That is absolutely delicious. You can say, does it taste of the pasture? Does it taste of Omega 3? Does it taste of the flowers? No, it just tastes of good beef. A stunning, stunning piece of meat. They might be a big undertaking, but I'm convinced the longhorns are the cows for me. So much more goes into a rare breed, and that needs preserving. I want to be part of that long link of cattle farmers that look after something very special. Izzy, come on. That's a good girl. What are you doing? Sit down. Back home, while I wait for my cattle to arrive, I have time to get on with using my horseradish. If I hold that up, I bet not a lot of people would know what it is, because we only ever see it in these things. Hot and peppery, horseradish has been used for thousands of years to accompany meat, but I haven't always been a fan. Growing up for me, I remember horseradish as just a sauce, and it's something my mum always used to get out of the cupboard, and it was obviously always with the roast beef, nothing else. I couldn't eat this. I didn't like horseradish. It was too hot for me. If you grow your own, the intensity of the horseradish, that's down to you now. This is a great job to do outside, because onions have nothing on horseradish from making your eyes sting. You sort of dream of moments like this, being a chef. Spend your whole life standing up in kitchens, under pressure, peeling lots of things, prepping, cooking. And then you think, wouldn't it be nice just to sit in a kitchen garden with the dog, peel some horseradish with the sun on your face? It's lovely. The foundation of the sauce is horseradish and creme fraiche. What do you think? Can you smell that? Mmm. So I'm going to leave it at that for now. Next, fresh tarragon and oregano. There's as much flavour in the stem and in the stalk as there is in the leaves themselves. And so, for me, I just cut through them all. Herbs going in. Salt. Pepper. It's going to have that little speckles of black just dotting through it. You've got the lovely green of the herbs. The horseradish is the bit you don't see, so you never really know how much is in there. You've just got to trust your palate and your taste. That's a bit hot. That's good to go. Ready to jar up. In clean jars, this sauce will keep in the fridge for three to four weeks. But I'm not going to wait that long. There's a pub just down the road, and apparently they're having a steak night. And so I've decided, rather than come empty-handed, I'm going to take him a jar of it and see how he goes. Hopefully get a free steak. Down at the pub, the local community has gathered for a very special evening. Evening, chef. Evening. Smells good down there. It's all about getting local people together to exchange their bounties. I've heard that if I bring something to swap, I get a little bit of free steak. Is that true? That is true. It's basically about sharing local produce with the local community. Events like these offer me a chance not only to exchange home-grown goodies, but to glean some insider tips on making the most of country living. So what are you dropping off? I've got some ground hogweed seed, sedge seed seasoning, some wild rosehip vodka. Rosehip vodka? Wild rosehips, yep. Rosehips have, particularly the wild ones, they have a sort of deep butterscotch note to them. Pub regular and full-time forager Sarah teaches novices like me how to find food in the wild. Rosehips are everywhere, aren't they? Yeah, yeah. But I wouldn't know one if it dropped in my lap. I gather these things from the hedgerows and woodlands. Ah. You're basically just picking out the wild things. Do you know, I've never done that. I've never done anything like that at all. Blackberry picking, you must have done that. I don't think I have. Really? No, I've led a very sheltered life. You haven't lived, Mark. I've spent most of my life in kitchens. For me, it's as much about the wildlife, nature, the landscape, as finding the food, which is really exciting too. Ooh, look at this. A bit of that one. What do you think of the horseradish? I love it because it tastes like a vegetable rather than just like a hot thing. That's it. That's it right there. I think you've just made my day. And local Malcolm is keen to share his top tip for a country newbie like me. Resist the urge to tidy up. The countryside is not tidy. Although, although, resist the urge to tidy up, yet tidying up is the one thing I do all the time. Absolutely. Don't mow your lawn. Let things grow a bit wild and rough. That's not going to be as easy as you just made that sound. Turns out it's not just homegrown produce we're sharing this evening. The community is generous with their wisdom and learning too. My father always said to me, you can't buy experience. You have to live it. You have to be taught from other people. I think that's worth raising a glass to. Cheers, cheers. Good health. It's a big day on the smallholding. They're on the way. Stuart and I are taking delivery of my cattle. Introducing the new cows to the existing herd could be tricky, but Stuart has a plan. I'm hoping we drop them out here. They're going to see our cattle and they're going to run down the hill. We'll find out. Is it just trial and error? Is it really just like that? I'm hoping they're all going to get on. A couple of days. They'll work out a new pecking order. Who's the boss? Probably your ones if they've got horns. Can I just give you a word of warning? Yeah. I've seen these cows run. Yeah. In fact, I've nearly been in the middle of a stampede with the horns coming at me. Yeah. I'm slightly concerned about the horns. I was thinking of getting some tennis balls and putting them on the end of the horns. Hello. It sounds a little bit like drastic parking, doesn't it? Wow. Crikey, look at the horns. I can't quite believe this. This is when the farm really does start to come to life. What do I do now? Because they're here. I sort of... I'm asking you. I think they want some grass. Are you ready? I'm a little bit nervous, actually. So am I. I wouldn't stand there. My cattle seem happy to feel the grass beneath their feet. Stay behind them, then. That's it. But as the existing herd are let into the field, only time will tell what they will make of the new kids on the block. They just need to settle down a little bit. They only look a bit unsure. Whoa. Oh. I hope they stop. Where are they going? Oh, they've gone through the electric fence. It's interesting. They've just jumped over it, yet yours has just stopped. That's because mine are well-behaved, isn't it? Oh, no. My longhorns haven't yet learned to respect the electric fence. It's corrupting mine. But it doesn't take long for Stuart's cattle to follow. This is not what's meant to happen. I hope they close the gate at the other end. I hope you close the gate at the other end. I wasn't the last one through the gate. I thought you were a farmer now. It's normal. I think it's to be expected. Because they don't know each other, they have to work out a sort of a pecking order. When they settle in, they'll be fine. Cup of tea? Lovely. Let's go. A few days later, and my longhorn cattle have settled in with the herd. They're not the only ones to have made new friends. I've invited Claire, Sam and Stuart for a special feast to say thank you for all the help they've given me in my search. I'm making a dish inspired by the traditional roast beef dinners of my childhood. Before I come to the beef, I just need to get these potatoes onto the grill. So some lovely new potatoes. No need to peel them. Some butter. Good pinch of salt. Mum just used to cut her potatoes up, lightly boil them and put them into a tray in the oven. But I want to cook everything outside. Not like your normal roast potato. It's a little bit different, but it is worth a try. I'm just going to fold this over. Let's make a nice parcel. Make sure it's all sealed. There we go. Ready to go on. By putting them into the embers, the potatoes will take on extra crispiness and a lovely smoky flavour. So what we've got here, we've got these lovely ribs. And I've just made up a dry rub, which is a seasoning of paprika, oregano, salt and pepper crushed together in the pestle and mortar. You can be very generous with the seasoning. This is a thick piece of meat, so don't worry about over-seasoning it. You won't. Dry rub's on. Let's get these onto the grill. Now it's all about patience. I've got some lovely little onions here, and we're just going to leave the skins on and just cut them straight in half. Check your beef. Turning the beef on its side to cook means the fat will melt into the flavours of the dried herbs. So onions, put them straight down on there. Don't need any oil. Just let the sweetness of the onion do their thing. I'm also making a glaze with bitter ale, mustard and vinegar, plus a magic ingredient. This is the best bit for me. I've got my own honey. I'm just going to pour that in there. That'll just create a lovely stickiness to go on the outside. And I've prepared one of these, which is a nice bunch of herbs. I'm going to use that as my brush for my meat. This is not the sort of thing my mum ever used to do. I'd go in the garden and pick a load of herbs and use it as a brush. Where I'm from, in the North West, it was the beef that was the traditional meat that we always had, because that's what my dad wanted on Sunday. And so there is a little bit of comfort that goes with the roast that I just absolutely adore. There is no two ways about it. This is a little bit different. But I'm taking the concept, the theory of the humble roast dinner, and I'm just doing it my way. I've blended green herbs, chillies and garlic into a sauce to serve with this. And those potatoes should be ready too. So basically, where the embers have touched the tin foil, it's just lightly baked them and roasted them. And then you've got the lovely soft potato underneath. And then we just pile them up in the bowl. Down my onions. Nicely caramelised. And now for the beef. Delicious. I put one hole on there, so that everyone can help themselves. There we go. And this one I'm going to slice. You've got that lovely charred caramelisation on the outside and then lovely pink beef in the centre. It's perfect. Absolutely perfect. There we go. Just like Sunday roast back at home. With a twist. Hello! Hi Marcus. Hello. Make some space. I hope Sam and Claire will like what I've done with their beef. Amazing. That is amazing. Shall I be mum? Dish up. It's been great having them here, I have to say. It's delicious. Absolutely delicious. Through the whole journey of doing this, the best meat, the best produce, has been the one that's been left a little bit longer. It's aged in its own time, got great food, it's got great pasture. There's no stress. And I think that really tells. And actually, do you know what I've started to do? Take my time. Nothing on here is rushed. And that's the nice thing about cooking in your own garden. With beef that you know all about, ingredients that you've grown, that's the difference. Never done that before. Cheers, guys. Nice to see you. Good to see you again, too. It's a long haul. Yeah, it's a long haul. It's fantastic having the long hauls here. One of the things I'm learning is that patience is the key. Some things are worth waiting for. I've spent my whole life rushing everything and running around at a thousand miles an hour. When I come to my farm and now I've got my own cattle on the land, it's a completely different feeling and it's a very different way of life. I'm absolutely loving it.