名厨马库斯·沃宁的花园厨房Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden S01E03中英字幕（2022）

As I spend more and more time at my Sussex Moorholding, I'm discovering there is always something new that needs doing. I thought I knew what to do, you know, you read books, but every single ingredient, every single herb, every shrub, there's a process. And you've got to learn all aspects of it, or try to anyway. It isn't as easy as it looks. A little bit like cookery I suppose. Here we go, right, I'd better crack on. Let me turn over. And with the recent addition of my pigs, the to-do list has got even longer. Hello, how are you doing ladies? Got some food, come on. Oh, no fighting. It certainly smells a bit different around here. I think they're definitely settling in. But pigs aren't the only farmyard favourite I want to introduce here. Come on. Right, so, I want chickens. I remember I had them when I was a boy. We had a big long run. We're going to get some more. What's a farm and smallholding without chickens? It just wouldn't be right, would it? Together with gardener Anatoly and my dog Esme, we've got plans to bring the previous owner's chicken coop back to life. What do we need to do to get it ready? Because this is a perfect house. First of all, we need to check if the equipment is working. Right. Okay, so, this was water feeder. It's not good anymore. This is the grain feeder. And also feeder for the grit to help digestion. Right. This wood in here is the ramp. I'm going to sit out. It's my DIY job. That's nice. Okay, there is perching poles. Sit on it that way. No, it's the other way around. So they grip like that. It seems dry in here though. Not a bad little house, that. I found an egg. No, it's not. It's a decoy. Terracotta egg. Not very edible. It encourages chicken to lay more. Really? What are you doing in there? Inspecting. We're not actually in a bad place here, are we? No. What do you think? Not bad, is it? Ready for some chickens? Esme may be ready, but we've still got a few jobs to do to complete the coop. And there's no time to lose, as I'm expecting my very first guests. To get my coop clocking, my neighbour and fellow smallholder Zoe has kindly offered to gift me some of her chickens. Hello. Hello. Here we have some ladies' food. Oh, they look good. Eventually, I want this coop to be home to some tasty table birds. But for now, Zoe's hens will give me delicious fresh eggs every day. And I'm not the only one pleased to see our new additions. Oh, you're all excited now, aren't you? I would like to let them roam out. These birds will love eating all the bugs, they would love to eat all the rotten apples. Brilliant. Will they come back? If you wanted them to free range around the whole orchard, I would really recommend that you keep them enclosed in here for a couple of weeks. Just so that they know this is their home, this is their place of safety. And then after two weeks, they'll know to come back here to roost at night. Really? Yeah. We've sterilised it, it's spotless in there. Have a look, tell me what you think. Let's have a look, girls. Let's inspect your new home. It was a bit of a store cupboard. It looks great. It's really fantastic that you've got two different heights of perches. Because you will find that the dominant hen will want to perch up higher. OK. I think it's time we let them out, don't you? Oh, ladies. Time for your new home. That's quite an orderly sort of march down, one at a time. They look great. You might find they'll start calling to each other now, as one of them finds something really amazing on the floor. It's great. They're doing the full circle. She looks like a happy hen. Zoe dropping these four young ladies off, as she calls them. That's quite cool. And that's the beginning of something really quite nice. Feels great. While my egg layers are settling in, I'm hitting the road in search of the perfect table bird. I've heard that there's a couple in Leicestershire who are producing the tastiest award-winning chicken. I've come to see Jacob and Nick, two experts on chicken rearing, and I want to know what their secret is. It's going back in time for me, when I was growing up. My brother had four chickens, Bantams. How vicious things they were. I think it's because they were cooped up all day. I want the chickens to be free range. I want them to be free to roam around. I want them to have a happy life. At Foss Meadows Farm, 15 miles south of Leicester, today is delivery day. I'm just in time to help Jacob and Nick with a fresh clutch of day old chicks. So we'll take two baskets and then I'll go inside, yeah? Yeah. Got them? Grab some and let's go. Wow. Look at that. If you put them on the left, then I'll put them on the right. This specially heated shed will be the chicks' home for the next three weeks, as they feather up and become strong enough to move outside. They are absolutely gorgeous. It's like Easter. It is. But the key for us is, in the next two, three days, is to get them eating, drinking, and get them into their new home. Into their new home. Right, what do I do? Grab a crate, then you're basically going to tip it onto the feed. Onto the feed? You're getting food straight away. You ready? You're just going to gently tip it over. Do you want to come this way? You practically threw them out. There's another one. There you go. I feel like I'm running the gauntlet. You're going to get yourself stranded in there. I know. I'd better sort of come round, because I feel like I'm trapped. There's something a bit bonkers about throwing a hundred chicks onto the food. You've left one behind. Ah! I don't want to do that. There you are. The final one. There we go. Last one. That's it. Job done. Wow. We'd better get out of here. Before we get trapped. In the UK, we eat over a billion chickens every year, with 95% of those birds intensively farmed indoors for their short, five-week lives. But I don't want one-of-a-mill chickens on my small holding. I want the very best. We believe the flavour comes with age, so we use a French breed called a Hubbard, and it's designed to grow slower. What I want to know is, I'm going to have some chickens back at my place. I've got a lovely little chicken coop. It's all ready for a new family, so what are the tips? What do I need to know? Generally, it's nice bedding. They like to scratch about. If there's a dusty area, they like a dust bath. If you do let them into the garden, they'll love basically going under the shrubs, under the trees. Brilliant. They're a jungle bird, and they keep it actually quite tidy. Obviously, you've got to remember, foxes don't just come out at night. So if you've got a big garden, the fox may be prowling around during the day. The fox may be prowling around, but then so am I. And I can move when I want to. There's no guide I can get that's going to help me out here. Not really. I thought chicken was going to be easy. It's relatively easy. That's all right for you two to say. I've got a funny feeling that, in my house, we're going to get attached to them. And I know my daughter will name them, which makes it even more complicated. It's the cycle of life. I know, but you try telling that to a 13-year-old. I think you're blaming your daughter. Yeah, it's me. So we're going to show you how to hold a chicken. My recommendation would be to do when they're in the shed at night when it's dark. Because they're more relaxed. Because they're roosting and they do not want to move. Whereas at this point, they want to move. And they will move. Off you go. Yeah, thanks. Might get a two-prong attack. So let me come round. Three-pronged. Come on. So we've got one. So this is a cockerel. So you always want to hold his legs. Right, why? So basically, the minute his legs are loose, he'll feel free and he'll want to get out. If you hold onto their breasts, they relax and they feel comfortable. They don't feel like they're going to drop. That's a good tip. The legs. You want to go? Holding him, yeah. I'm not going to pick him. There you go. That's it. Holding a chicken. You can feel the heart beating. Yeah. Yeah, quite quick. Yeah. I think we should put him back. I think he needs to go. Just drop him down. He'll be off. There you go. He's back in home now. He's not staying out here. I'm so impressed with Jacob and Nick's hubbards. I'm thinking of ordering some for my smallholding. But Anatoly is all too aware of the work involved. Livestock, it's different. All the infrastructure involved with it, feeding, waking up in the morning, even go, come and check in the weekend as well. It's not like Monday to Friday. I'm hoping the hard work will all be worth it and will give me meat that's far tastier than I could buy from any supermarket. To put that to the test, I've asked Nick to show me a direct comparison, a slow-grown 12-week-old chicken against a standard supermarket chicken grown for five weeks. Hopefully, you're going to see how much darker the meat is. The legs show it, I think, better than anything. They show a completely different colour because looking at it, you'd say, well, they're both the same size. But there is difference in there. This is, without doubting, in quality. It's leaner, it's got a great fat content, it's got colour, which says it's got flavour. That's still delicious in its own way, but it's not the quality that I'm personally looking for. That feels wet and sticky, and that just feels a little bit dry. It actually feels dry. It's got a completely different feeling to it. The raw meat is one thing, but the real test is a taste test. Two chickens. These two chickens are exactly the same weight. One's a supermarket, which is pretty obvious. It's this one, and that's yours there. That's all shriveled up like that because the water content has left the meat. You're just left with this wrinkled-up chicken that actually doesn't look very good either. Shall we try some? Cut me a bit. First up, the free-range. Wow. Wow. It's got texture, without a doubt has flavour. I find the supermarket one, it's wet. It lacks flavour. I think this chicken delivers so much more than the supermarket chicken. Now, yes, you may pay a little bit more for it, but I think it's delicious. Thank you very much. Well done. I don't need any more convincing, and I put in an order for a small brood of hobbits. They'll join my hens, who seem to be enjoying their new home. But there's one troublemaker, and I'm calling her Harriet Houdini. Oh, here we go. You remember me? I've got an escapee. Oh, don't go through there. Please don't go through there. Oh, really? I need to draft in the country's finest chicken wrangler. Oh, the door's not open. My daughter, Jessie. You just coax it round, Jess. Nice and slowly, OK? And I'll guide her in. Let's go. Team effort. Guide her this way. No, don't rush her. Oh, here we go, Jess. Oh, please go in. Please go in. Get in there! Right, we've got to get a net. Anatoly did tell me to get a net. I'd better go and buy one, because I can't do this every day. My kitchen garden is positively blooming. It's giving me regular crops of fruit, vegetables and herbs that can go straight from the plot to my plate. But there's one ingredient I don't have on my veg pouch, and it makes for a classic combination with chicken. I've seen mushrooms growing around the farm all the time in the autumn, in the winter. All over the place, all different types. And every year, you come back, there's something different. But I'm always too scared to pick any of them and cook them. And I, you know, even as a chef, I think I know what I'm seeing, but I'm just not 100% sure. I want to see if I can grow my own. So I've asked local mushroom expert, Elliot, to show me how. This area is perfect. If you come in here, you can see that it's a little bit overgrown, but also it's easy for watering. You just need a little bit of light, some good humidity and the right logs and you're away, really. Elliot's brought along a bag of wooden dowels with the organism of the shiitake mushroom living on them. Basically, we're just going to drill in a certain pattern on this log, hammer in our mushroom dowels and then seal it. And then after that, we choose the correct place to keep it. And that's it. Job done. I mean, this is the real science, isn't it? This is the clever stuff. It's white gold. If you're trying to do this somewhere that's exposed, you know, windy, maybe slightly sunny, in a city, for example, maybe somebody has a balcony, you just have to take it to another level of care. So the two key things are to stop competition coming in and to stop moisture going out. And the wax is your barrier to do both. The type of log we're using is sweet chestnut. The first... Ideal for growing the deliciously rich and meaty shiitake variety. I can't wait to get these in place, have my own mushrooms, pick them... That's it. ...and cook my own dinner. I have to be patient. It could take around six months to see a sign that the mushrooms are on their way. You'll notice that almost like a starlight white handprint starts forming on the end of your logs or you might see it forming in the cracks of your logs. If you see that, then you know it's probably ready to fruit. The mushrooms will appear at the perfect time for the spores to spread. But for an impatient man like me, that's a waiting game I'd rather not play. Luckily, Elliot has a brilliant way of fooling Mother Nature. A really neat way that you can do it with shiitake mushrooms is you can take a wooden mallet and you can bash it. And that shock, and this is great, that shock is replicating another tree falling in the forest. Because if a tree falls somewhere else in the forest, it's the perfect time to release your spores because there's a fresh tree waiting for the spores to land on it. Seriously? Yeah, seriously. That's how clever these guys are. Here we go. Mushrooms on toast. Hope you did something a bit better than that. It's nothing like mushrooms on toast. Once my mushrooms start to fruit, I should be able to harvest them twice a year for up to eight years. Doing this, it's great fun. Something to look forward to. I think this is really informative. Anyone can do it. As long as you get the dowels and you've got a bit of wood like that, hey, you're away. This is brilliant. Today is the day my table chickens arrive from Leicestershire. But with two separate flocks, of different sizes and ages all coming together, this could be tricky. So the key is the introduction, make sure that these little things are safe. That's it. To make sure they don't fight because older ones can peck younger ones. All we can do now is hope for the best. So basically, like so. You open it up and that's it. You can release the other ones. Let's see what they will do. And the black one, you can see, she didn't start to peck them, which is good. So now they know from there, they can walk in and learn their way out. Just sussing it out. Baby steps. This is the bravest one. There we go. Number two. Come on. Face off. That's the sign that she can peck her. She's first. A bit of tension in the villa. If pecking like this will continue, we may need to separate them for a bit longer. But at the moment, we just need to monitor. Every hour or so, coming in, see what happens. So far, so good. The older hens have shown who's the boss. And they can teach the young chickens the rules of the roost. It's been a long time since I've had chickens in my back garden. This is lovely. Really nice. There's something about having chickens on a farm that actually, it really does make it. There you go. Makes it all worthwhile. It seems the chickens are going to take quite a lot of my attention. But there's one part of the garden that's been yielding a modest crop without any input from me at all. The grapes, they've grown and they've ripened and they've been absolutely delicious. All of them, green and black. And what I've done is I've generally just put them on a cheese board. One of the things I've always wanted to do is make my own wine. I've thought about the field right there. They've got the cows in. But I'm told that it's just a little bit too high and it does get really cold and frosty in the winter. But I know that there's someone just down the road that's managing to produce sparkling wine. I want to know their secret. And I might even get to sip a sample or two. Oh! Tell you what, though. It'd be easier to have sort of a little bit of a light table. Once looked down upon by connoisseurs, English wine is now regarded by many as being on par with that produced on the other side of the channel. It's always been my ambition to be able to make my own wine. What do I need to do? Ultimately, you need the right site. You need a warm site. You need the aspect to be right. You need the altitude to be right. You need to do all of your homework because once the vines are in the ground, they take a hell of a lot of work to get to the point at which you have a harvest, you have a crop. So, James, why has English wine exploded in the last 5, 10 years? We've got the climate. We have years like 2020 where the summer was incredible. So the ability to ripen fruit that historically you'd never be able to get right back in the 70s, 80s. And we have people with amazing knowledge making the wines. What makes this so special? We're in an amazing microclimate. We're on the edge of a reservoir. We get a lovely breeze that runs through the vineyard and keeps all of the canopy really nice and dry. Also, we have a much longer growing season. I'm beginning to realise that my place just isn't suitable for producing Chateau Marcus. That's not half bad. How long does it take to get to this stage? So from putting the vine into the ground, it's at least two and a half years before you're producing even a tiny bit of fruit. Probably more like three, four, five years before you're producing a reasonable crop. It's a patient game. It's a labour of love, isn't it? A labour of love, yeah. My goodness me. I'm a little bit used to things a little bit quicker in my world, but there's one thing I'm learning about farming and growing is take your time. I thought waiting six months for my mushrooms was long enough. I better leave wine to the experts. I do have a bit of an issue with people tasting wines and spitting it out, though. For me, that's a little bit of a waste. That's what we like to hear. It's absolutely delicious. Isn't it, Jim? But I'm going to take a bottle or two of this with me. It will pair up perfectly with the chicken dish I'm planning. My small holding is a real team effort, and I've been nowhere without the help and advice from my new farming friends. So I want to thank them by preparing a meal for us all to share. I'm going to grill one of those incredible free-range, slow-grown chickens from Leicestershire. With meat this good, I'm keeping my recipe simple. I've made this chicken grill ready to make sure the breast and thigh meat will all cook evenly. That's how we buy them, like so. So what I've done is just basically just run my scissors and just opened it up like that. Spatchcock, that's what we call that. I'm using a North African spice mix, razz-a-la-noot, as a simple rub. You can pick it up from most large supermarkets. It's just a nice, gentle, spicy flavour, not too strong. Then some seasoning and a drizzle of olive oil. I'm going to take that, I'm going to put that straight onto the grill, skin side down. One of the most important things about cooking chicken this way is you don't want the heat to be too vicious, too strong at the beginning. That will take about 45 minutes to an hour to cook. Chicken was always a special meal for us in my family. When I was growing up, it was always maybe the Friday night or Saturday night and we used to have a whole roast of chickens. Not like this, we didn't do it on the grill, but I love chicken. It's so versatile, it can take so many different flavours, it's lovely. Once the chicken is sealed and caramelised, it's back into the pot. Now I'm just introducing my garden into that lovely rock and spice. Sprigs of rosemary and thyme, a squeeze of lemon and some roughly chopped garlic. Then it's lid on and back onto the grill. What I love about cooking in a kitchen garden and just having ingredients around me is there are no rules. I just keep going back to this chicken and just adding more flavour and I can see the whole thing is just coming to life inside that pan. But we're not finished yet. Now for the twist. There's no soup in sight, but I'm making sourdough croutons. They'll give crunch and texture to the dish when I serve it up. Be generous with your olive oil. Garlic. Put it into the oil and just rub it all over the bread. While the bread soaks up all that oil, there's time for some finishing touches to the chicken. It's hardly any water in here. The only thing that's in this pan is the oil that I put in myself. Just to counterbalance that, I'm just going to put some of my honey on top. Just more flavour, more of a garden. Another 10-15 minutes and we're going to be good to go. Back on the grill. To make this dish really sing, I'm going to top it off with some delicious wild mushrooms. I've got some girolles, chanterelles and trumpet. When you put mushrooms into a pan, the first thing they do is they release their water and you really don't want to do that. So I have a very hot pan, get them sealed, get them cooking and out. I'm adding some chopped sage, rosemary, parsley and a nub of butter and that's it. For the sauce, I'm making a simple dressing using chicken stock. I've reduced a pint of stock to about a quarter. Then I'm infusing it with the same herb trio. Adding a glug of olive oil. Some sherry vinegar. Seasoning. And giving it a shake. Chicken vinaigrette. To finish our chicken. Put your croutons around the outside. Mushrooms. Finish with my chicken vinaigrette. And there we have it. Delicious. Chicken time. I'm absolutely buzzing for this. Goodness. I feel like a sommelier. Gentlemen. Here's to the beautiful free range chicken and the lovely wild mushrooms. And here's to the chickens over there as well. These were coming more like pets than food as time goes on. If you speak to my daughter, yes. That's good. Do you like? We do. I do. Smoky. As far as my chickens ending up on the dinner table, the jury's still out. For now, I'll just enjoy them being around. Hello. It's great having chickens on the farm. They really do bring life to the place. And they always come and say hello to you when you walk in the pen. They're always clucking, they're always making noise. And I love them. There's one thing I've learnt about farming. Is if you give the animals a good life, they'll give you something back in return. Look at them. Lovely. Great addition to the farm.