名厨马库斯·沃宁的花园厨房Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden S01E02中英字幕（2022）

Until recently, my life revolved around Michelin-starred kitchens. But these days, I'm trying to slow down and broaden my horizons at my Sussex smallholding. This is something that I've never done before, venturing into the world of farming and growing. I'm a total beginner. Whoa! But that won't stop me getting my hands dirty, bringing in some new arrivals. This is when the farm really does start to come to life. And getting help and tips from some of Britain's best producers. Gently tip them over the side, and off they go. You can eat every single thing there. Really? In the farming world, everybody loves to help each other. That's what I love about this new lifestyle. And with produce and livestock for inspiration. Certainly smells a bit different around here. I think they're definitely settling in. I've got plenty of tasty food to cook. Delicious. This just sings summer. Goodness. Oh, wow. Dream of moments like this, being a chef. And a local community to share it with. None of it will go to waste. New flavours, new ideas, new dishes. Yes, please. Wow! It's incredible. As I discover the secrets of the kitchen garden. My smallholding sits in the heart of the High Weald in East Sussex. And over the past 12 months, my dog Esme and I have been spending a lot of time here. There's always a job that needs doing. We work out, this is. There's an orchard. Bees to tend to. That is quite scary, actually. Even though I've got a suit on, I still feel slightly vulnerable. And at the heart of it all is the kitchen garden. This is a new challenge. 34, 35 years now in kitchens. And to be honest with you, I do feel there's a part of my career, my cooking career, that's missing. And that's the growing the supply chain and getting to understand it a little bit more. I want to get my hands dirty. And at the end of this, or the process, I want to be a better cook. While it's all new to me, Anatoly has been at the smallholding for over 20 years. And together, we're always busy. Especially when the produce is starting to bloom. But we're not the only ones excited about the arrival of the summer bounty. I see the raspberries are coming. It's a good idea to protect them. All of them? Yeah, yeah. So if you've got lots of fruits, the pests will be coming. We want insects, we want things pollinating, yet we've also got to keep other things at bay. Yeah, like wood pigeons. So many of them can come and strip the plants down. What's the biggest problem? Rabbits. I planted broccoli. And if you don't protect them, they would eat it. Squirrels are also very interesting. If they see you planting garlic or daffodils, they would come in there and dig the bulb out because they think you're hiding it for the winter. For them. The garden is slowly being ravished, so we need some defences. And Anatoly assures me he has some tried and tested methods. And it seems to involve flying kites. And that helps? It helps. It imitates owl or eagle, and they just don't like it. Because the small things think that's a predator waiting to zoom in. Yes. Got it. It's got like eyes, big eyes on it, and also shiny. It will scare crows and pigeons. So you just extend it, fix like that, so you can rise it now. And if the wind is good, it picks up straight away. I don't just want to protect what's here. I want to make it fit for years to come. I've got a great abundance of ingredients here, but now I want to find out some new techniques. I want to bring some other vegetables into my garden. But I think I'm going to need some help. The produce that's already here is the tried and tested kitchen fare. But just like my cooking, I want to see just how far you can take the kitchen garden. I'm going to West Sussex, and a place that's especially close to my heart. I'm now heading to Gravetown Manor, a beautiful country house hotel. It's a place that I worked at when I was a training chef. And all the time that I worked here, I'm embarrassed to say that I never went to the kitchen garden once. And that's what it was like training. That's what it's been like all of my working life. Fresh produce has always just arrived at the back door, but that's something I want to change. These days the head chef is George Blogg, and he's won a Michelin star for his seasonal menu. So I want to discover what a kitchen garden can offer a chef. Wow! It's incredible. It's vast. It's huge. I didn't think it'd be this big. I've now got kitchen garden envy. My goodness, mate. Here we are. This stunning oval kitchen garden was built in 1889 and looks to me like a finely dressed serving plate. And so would you say that this is the heart and soul of Gravetown now? Yeah, of course. Because it wasn't when I was here. So what this offers me as a chef is something unique. It gives me a style. It shows me what we should be using, when we should be using it. The ultimate inspiration for anybody. George has built up his award-winning menus around what the garden can offer up season by season. But a key factor in his success is variety. This is one of the things that you can't buy from a shop. This is called parcel. It's the cross between celery and parsley. Ah, OK. Brings both of those lovely ingredients together. Just delicious. That's fantastic. I think you've got a bit of everything. This is a bit of a wild area that we're experimenting with, so we've got mustards. We grow saffron under these as well. As well as the ability to grow interesting produce, what a garden also gives a chef is unrivaled freshness. Some pine beans, some runner beans. These will be picked in the morning, blanched and served that same day. Oh, wow. When so young, this is great. This is what a kitchen garden gives you. It's the freshness. Yeah. It gives you so much more, it gives you so much flavour. It's absolutely delicious. Exactly. While George has six times as many acres of veg as my plot in Sussex, I'm sure there are plenty of tips I can take back with me. So George is introducing me to head gardener Tom. Hey, Tom. Good to see you. Yeah. Tom, I have to say, I think the kitchen garden looks absolutely incredible. Thank you. It's a very special place. What's the challenge like working with a chef? We need chef to lead us. We need to grow exactly what he needs for his menu. I noticed up there I saw some beetroot beautifully in lines, but they're all at different stages or growths. So we call it succession planting. So we're basically growing things at different times, so we get a constant supply of produce coming towards the kitchen. So we sow seeds every week and we do a harvest every week. So eventually you've got tiny ones, middle-aged ones, and ones ready to crop. Would you say that's something that I could do in my kitchen garden? It's a lot smaller than this. Whether it's in a big garden like this or at home, I think planning is really, really important, and the big planning really is in the winter. Sit by the fire, pour yourself something to drink, get the seed catalogues out, and just really think about what gives you the most amount of fun. There's no point in growing things that you can just buy from the supermarket. It's really narrowing down what makes you the happiest cook or gardener you can. And can anyone grow food? If I can do it, anyone can. I don't believe that. We've evolved over thousands of years to grow food, and it's in our DNA, and I think it's important for everyone to try it a little bit once. Love it. I absolutely think this is great. I think you could almost say that this is pretty much as close to heaven as you'll get in a kitchen garden. I mean, it's absolutely stunning. Whilst I carry on collecting valuable growing tips, back at the smallholding, Anatoly has been busy protecting the produce that's already growing there. He's also building new raised beds so we can plant up some new varieties when we get them. Easy. Over in East Grinstead, I'm heading back to the more familiar surroundings of the kitchen with the ingredients picked fresh from the garden. George has kindly agreed to show me a dish that personifies the way the garden has shaped his cooking. George, this looks incredible. Tell me, what are you cooking for me? So from everything we've seen, this dish encapsulates the whole of our kitchen garden. This is a Grave Thai garden salad. Altogether, there are over 30 fresh ingredients going into this dish, and each one comes straight from the garden into the kitchen. OK, so we're going to start with our purees. So I've got beetroot puree here. Carrot puree. So this is our parcel that we collected this morning. We've got some celery here as well. Lovely flowers. We've let it bolt. Let it overgrow. Yeah. I've got this in my garden. There you go. And in fact, a lot of these things are in a lot of gardens. People just don't use them. Stunning colours. Yeah, but it's just the vibrancy from the garden. And we make this with a wide variety of herbs. It's just raw flavour. Yeah. Right, that's stage one. What are the other 39? So I'm just going to use this bowl to dress some caramelised cauliflower, a couple of pieces of courgette. These are the ingredients that are changing through the seasons. Just constantly evolving all the time. And then we're just going to add all of these larger pieces on to the base of the salad. Then we're going to add a confit yolk. And the yolk comes from our own chickens as well. Then we're going to add all of these lovely herbs and flowers. This is the big bowl flavour. Because they're all grown outside, they're even more intense. So basically we're just using little pieces of each of them. OK. When I was here, we never went anywhere near this stuff. This we just saw as garden weeds. George is making use of every possible bit of the plant for his dish. But there are all things we can grow in our own gardens. And then we're going to add some of our crisps as well. There we go. A little salad. Grave diet on a plate. Yeah, exactly. I've got to try it, I've got to try it. You literally go diving in. You get something new. You get something else. Little hits, little things here, exciting your palate. It's incredible because what this does for me, having gone into the kitchen garden, seeing what Tom's doing, what you're doing, this is inspiring. It inspires me to want to just put more things into the ground, start growing some new things and introducing it into my cookery. Because that's what I want to do. I've got things that you've shown me today that are in my garden that I have bypassed. And that's slightly embarrassing. Really good. At my small holding in Sussex, the plans to expand the summer veg are in full swing. But before I can get planting, I'm needed elsewhere. As well as produce, we also have animals here. Stuart, a local farmer, keeps sheep and cows on one of my fields. And today he's asked me to give him a hand with an urgent piece of work. We've got a job here that needs doing before it rains again. It's about the timing. I love the spirit of everybody helping out. And that's something that's quite unusual for me because, you know, in the world of restauranting, I mean, I wouldn't pop down to the restaurant down the road if they were in trouble to help them out in their service. I'd just focus on my own kitchen and pretty much just look after yourself. But in the farming world, everybody loves to help each other. That's what I love about this new lifestyle that I'm discovering. It's brilliant. We cut the grass five days ago. Now it's dried out, it's hay that Stuart can use as animal feed. But with the threat of rain, we need to get it in before the heavens open. It'll work out, this. Put that one up there. If this is wet, it just starts to rot, I assume. Exactly. It's like just as you'd cut your grass and you'd put your clippings on the compost heap, it heats up and then, you know, it'll go mouldy and spoil. So the idea is, you know, we're preserving it. So how important is it for a farmer cutting and collecting grass? It may look a pretty mundane thing, but this is vital. You know, without grass, 365 days a year, you're not going to have any animals for very long. It never occurred to me that this grass could be useful. Normally I'd just leave it to just die down and it just regrows next year. I've just lost a whole year of food for a farmer that he could use for the next up-and-coming year. They utilise absolutely everything all year round and I think there's a lesson there for all of us. Preserve it, look after it, keep it for another day. Don't throw it away. Farmers don't throw anything away. One sec. Oh! A few weeks ago, I harvested a mass of garlic from the kitchen garden and we stored it in the shed. Now it's dried out, Anatoly is going to show me how to braid them, something I've always wanted to try. Just pick up the best one. What you do is just cross them like that. It's just like a... Plait. Yeah, plaiting. Yeah, that's right. I think it's actually really quite nice. The pleasure of gardening is you can do nice things like this. You need to make time to actually sit down and actually pay attention to what you're doing. What do you reckon? Yeah, it's not bad. I suppose the idea is to get something like that. Yeah. There is enough garlic here to easily see us through the rest of the year and still share some with some of the neighbours. But I'd like to do something a bit different with some of it. I actually quite like the idea of smoking it. There is a smokehouse near us. Why don't you just drop them off with them and then...? Yes, yes, and they will do it for you. I think that would be really good. The UK is full of amazing artisans and this is a chance for me to meet the ones in my area. And luckily for me, smoked foods are something I love to cook with. But to do it on this scale, with delicate produce, is a highly skilled job. I've got to say, it does now smell good in here. I would like, if possible, to have my garlic smoked. Can I just put it in the bottom of there? No. I didn't think so. So, where is the best place to smoke this and how? Cold smoke in a brick kiln. Right, OK. With oak chippings going through, up and out. Wow. When you open the door, the smell is just so powerful. And what we're doing is we're producing the smoke in this box here because, being cold smoke, we want to keep the heat source away from the kiln otherwise there's the risk that this will start cooking. And we have a continual stream of new smoke happening all the time. It's not locked inside, it's constantly just...? Constantly going through. Owner Andrew and smoker Ian use traditional smoking techniques and kilns. Touch one, you'll see that it's quite dry now. Yeah, yeah. A fire made with oak chippings is lit beneath the food and the aromatic smoke then permeates through it so that it takes on that distinctive smoky flavour. It's something that you can't really walk away from, you have to be here. Are these now ready to go? Yeah, these are going to come out this morning. So they will have been in the kiln for about 24 hours. And they've been in there long enough? All good and ready to go. Can I have a little taste? Yeah, of course. Wow. It is really good. What you're eating now will actually go into the patty because it will have a slightly harsh and dry smoke flavour. Can you smoke this for me? Yeah, that's no problem. I mean, basically, we can pretty much smoke anything. When all this comes out in a few minutes, we'll put that on a rack and that will go in this kiln on its own and it will take about four days. Four days? Yeah. Really? Yeah, yeah, yeah. That in there, four days? Yeah. Well, it's got to get through the bulb. So can I leave this with you? I've got to come back then. Yeah, yeah, no problem at all. Thank you. That's what the community is all about, finding these new little artisan suppliers that I can be part of. Can I have another little piece? Yeah, sure. Take the next slice down. Yeah, that's what the customer will get. And also learning something along the way. I learned a lot in there today. Perfect. Good? Really good. Good, good. While I wait for my garlic, it's the perfect time to finish off expanding my range of summer veg. My neighbour Jenny has agreed to come over and help me plant up. She's also bringing some of the incredible produce she has managed to grow in her garden. So what have you got here? Well, these are all things I've picked from my garden today. Crookneck squash. Like a courgette with a bit of attitude. A bit more flavour. And this, of course, you will know, agretti. Ah, OK, yes, yes, yes, yes. It's like sunflower without the salt. You can almost wilt it down. Yeah, I do. The idea is to show that you can grow something a little bit different. I've spent my entire life around produce. As a boy, my father delivered it to restaurants and then all my years as a chef. Yet I've never come across some of these varieties. This is the La Palma pepper from the Canary Islands where they use it to make mojo sauce, which is one of these Spain meets Africa sauces. OK. It's a jar for you. Oh, wow! You have that on potatoes. That looks great. And a great tip is if somebody gives you a rare variety, save the seeds from inside and then you keep growing your own Canary peppers forevermore. That's quite special. Yeah, yeah. Do you want that? I would love to, thank you. So, planting. Let's do a row of those and I would think about there. Right. Because they're going to grow to that sort of size. Spacing is terribly important if you don't want things too overcrowded. This is the perfect opportunity to start using some of those tips I've been learning. So I've heard a little bit about succession planting. How does it work? So when a packet of seeds says sow from April to August, they're really hinting that you should sow once a month or once a fortnight, depending how close you want your succession. Those are about a month old, a bit smaller. These are about six weeks old. Now, what we could do is make half a row of each of these in and then in two weeks' time plant some more of these in the other half of the row. Brilliant. So just sprinkle a few seeds in. Most packets of seeds have enough for more than one year. Right. And you just put a little bit of soil on top of them and pat it down. And then you can sow some more in a couple of weeks' time if you feel like it. Yeah. This is fantastic. I really do appreciate you coming over. For me, it's about different flavours, trying new things, growing new things, but it all starts here with the seed. Yes. I've never been able to get my hand in the soil until now. It's lovely. Yeah. I found a real sense of achievement and pride in growing my own food. I've never done this, I've never in my professional life been so in touch with growing and just cooking this way. I've never done this before. It's great. It just feels fantastic. Tonight, I'm celebrating the bounty of summer and I've invited friends over. So while they make themselves comfortable, I'm heading back into the kitchen with my lovely homegrown produce. I'm going to be making a light summer veg salad with some of my freshly smoked garlic. While they're nicely warming up, we're going to get a couple of lemons. I'm just going to cut those in half. Just put them onto the griddle, like so. I love the lemon when it's got a touch of charring. It almost caramelises. It makes the bitterness of the lemon slightly sweet. It's absolutely delicious. So, onto our vegetables. I've just got a collection of vegetables from the garden. As you see, I've got the leeks. For this dish, you can use any vegetables you like. So it's really what you've got in your garden. I think sometimes we always think of barbecuing as always being sausages, chicken, the usual things. But actually, if you've got a veg garden full of vegetables and you don't know what to do with them, this just makes a great alternative meal. I've harvested what was ready, so for me, that's baby lettuce, courgettes, spring onions and runner beans. They just go onto the griddle to get that all-important charring. Grab our garlic. Very own smoked garlic. Right, to my dressing. We'll just gently peel off the outer layer. Taking it to the smokehouse and smoking it just completely mellows the garlic, but it's the smoky flavour, along with the smoky flavour of the vegetables, that's just going to make this dish absolutely delicious. I've obviously used my own, but you can buy smoked garlic at most large supermarkets. So just with a little fork, just break it up a little bit, like so. Wow, that smells amazing. Now I'm just going to squeeze these beautiful lemons. A little pinch of salt. What I love about the lemons is it's just that beautiful summer flavour. It's great. Just by putting them onto the grill just brings out the sugar of the lemon, so it's not so sharp. It's a sweet and sour rather than just a sour flavour. And I've just taken a whole bunch of flowers and herbs out of the kitchen garden. I'm just going to put in whatever I like. I'm going with finely chopped parsley, mint and marjoram, and a good glug of rapeseed oil. Mix it up. The smoked garlic and charred veg are the stars of this dish. But what makes this salad a bit different from your average is a ricotta base. Ricotta is a great carrier for all these different flavours. So, lemon. I'm just going to grate some lemon into it, some lemon zest. I'm just picking this beautiful oregano out of the garden. I'm not going to chop it down. It's got a lovely lemony finish to it as well. I'm just going to put a little bit of mint, just lightly chopped mint. When you're cutting mint and you chop it too hard, it just goes black very, very quickly. So don't add any pressure, but you do have to have a sharp knife. We've got lemons, we've got the mint. Everything's perfect in season. This just sings summer. Let's mix those in. And I think we are ready to dress. So, ricotta. There we go. So we're just going to put this on the base of our plate. Lots of it. There we go. And that's our base. Lettuces. What I love about doing this is you can just dress this up however you like. It's entirely up to you. A good sprinkling of salt. Pepper. It's really important that the vegetables just have that seasoning just to bring out their individual flavour. And this dressing is just going to bring it all together. And I'm going to be very, very generous. Wow. Smells incredible. Some little fennel, just to finish it there. Some borage flowers. Now I'm just putting some colour onto the plate. And they just bring a lovely, summery touch to the dish. I think that's ready for eating. That's summer on a plate. Afternoon, gentlemen. There we are. That's beautiful, thank you. Love the baby courgettes as well. It's very unusual to get me enthusiastic about vegetables. LAUGHTER This is lovely. What I'm really enjoying is the growing process. So you're definitely hooked then? Yeah. Are you going to end up more a gardener than a cook? That's possible. It's lovely just to pick some ingredients, cook them up on the grill, get some friends over, break some bread. Brilliant. I absolutely love it. The kitchen garden is the heart of the farm. Everywhere I look, I see jobs that I want to do, but I also see food, food that I want to pick and cook. It's great. I'm starting to think of the bigger picture. It's really inspiring me as a chef to look at the garden as something that is the base of my cookery. And it's exciting, really exciting.