Jak dbać o rośliny domowe w marcu? Roślinne aktualizacje Plant Tour LUTY

Good morning, welcome to plant updates, and in them care tips how to take care of our home plants in March. Have a nice viewing. If you watch to the end, I will be grateful if you put thumbs up under the video and remember about subscription, of course with a bell to be up to date. Unfortunately, something happened to me not very pleasant related to plants, but more on that later. Now let's focus on care tips. From the middle of March we start fertilizing plants that we did not fertilize during the winter. I know that there are a lot of people who do not fertilize plants at all, because they are afraid that they will over-fertilize. If you are one of these people, then start fertilizing half of the dose which is given on the producer's package. Before we over-fertilize the plant, it is worth to feed it, i.e. fertilize. One watering before over-fertilization. Because after over-fertilization, we do not fertilize the plant for 3-4 weeks. It really depends on the plant, but I assume that we have to wait about a month before the plant roots well in a new substrate. Let's not neglect overgrown, woody plants such as Camellia or Azalea. We put them in a visible, bright, diluted light position, but in a place where it is a little cooler. Cooler, at least 5 degrees, more or less in the middle of March, we can start awakening plants that winter in cool rooms. Plants such as oleander, yucca, agave. Before we start watering, it is worth loosening the top layer of the soil, because for sure during the winter it became such a hard crust. That's why we loosen anything. If we notice that there is a lack of a little substrate, something spilled out, or just the substrate sat down and it was hard, then we add fresh, fertile substrate. We look closely at these plants. We cut all the dry leaves, branches, branches that are broken. Everything that is dry, what can be a source of diseases and pests. When we notice that the plants are awakening until spring, they show us new leaves, then we start fertilization. If we plan to overdo it, it is worth fertilizing them before overdoing it. If we have overgrown cyclamens and they do not show that they are in a state of rest, i.e. the leaves do not yellow, then we water them normally, systematically, as we did before. But it is worth moving them to a slightly cooler place or put right next to the glass. When the plant will drop all the leaves and enter a state of rest, we limit watering. We stop watering. But when the plant continues to grow, produces new leaves, we treat it normally, as if it were not in a state of rest. If we do not have rooms at a lower temperature, we put the plant next to the glass. The day is getting longer, so succulents and cacti, which are wintered in cool rooms, are starting to wake up until spring. So we start to water them gently, with a small amount of water, just to gently moisten the substrate. With each watering, it is worth turning the plant 180 degrees to be evenly illuminated, so that they do not start to bend and lose their nice cut. In the winter, some plants may lose some leaves and show us bald shoots. Or plants without light began to stretch towards the sun and do not look interesting now. They lost their nice cut, so in mid-March we can cut the plants to rejuvenate them. There will be a video about rejuvenation soon. And such cuttings of course we can root, to have a new cutting or plant it in a mother plant. I showed you this gynura a year ago, it was probably the last time when you saw it, and I said that I'm not doing anything with it for now, but the time has come to cut it, root and plant it. Gynura will be rooted in the substrate. You can do it in water, but they often rot. Gynura, such as, for example, angina or pelargonium, best and fastest roots directly in the substrate. Nice gynura. From mid-March we can try to transplant domestic plants. Of course, it is worth accumulating everything, substrate, additives. Of course, plants that require transplanting, something is happening to them, they yellowed, we transplant, not paying attention to what time of year it is, because we have to control what is happening in the roots, so that we can react properly. I remind you that before transplanting, it is worth supplying, feeding the plants and before transplanting or after transplanting, we cut the plants. It is better to do it after transplanting. We cut the plants for several reasons. First, to rejuvenate the plant, so that it starts to branch out, have a nicer cut, because during the winter it could also pull out to the light and it didn't look so nice and compact. We also cut the plant to take the seedling, which we can later add to the mother plant, so that the plant is thicker, but we also cut the plant in case when during transplanting it turns out that unfortunately we had to cut a lot of roots. When we are forced to reduce the leaves so that the roots can feed them, we can adopt such a general rule of reducing roots and shoots so that the roots can feed the leaves. In this case, we assume that the volume of the roots is one third of the volume of the entire plant. Very important, before we start cutting the leaves, shoots and roots, we have to prepare a tool. Cutters, tools with which we cut the plant, we wash and clean well. Here you can see... I thought I was going to hit my leg. We can see that the blade is faded. You can also see rust marks. This is an old, used cutter. These black spots are the remains of plant juices to which dirt, dust, there may also be pathogens of various diseases, pests could also stick. So when we cut the plant, we jump from plant to plant, we easily bring diseases. And we clean it. Let's clean the plants from dry, yellowing leaves. And whether to cut the yellow leaves or leave them to dry completely, I once recorded a video on this topic. I will link it in the description. And I also remind you that it is worth cleaning the covers, pots and bases. You probably noticed that every time the plant is watered, a little substrate is washed out on the base. And there is quite a lot of moisture there, so a perfect habitat for diseases and pests. Time for the drama that happened recently. It's about the harvester on all occasions. But not only. The harvester fell into the gutter. Unfortunately, a few philodendrons suffered. Banana seeds are also eaten by the harvester. When I look at it, it reminds me of a question. Anka, do you curse at all? I curse like a harvester. I bought this allocation some time ago for a discount. It was with a harvester and I bought it to save the range, for movies, for photos and plant experiments. As we can see, it grows in such a carbon substrate. The harvester appeared here probably twice, but I recently remembered when it returned that I had a temporary problem with the harvester on it somehow in the fall. But I used natural sugar-based spray. And as we can see, natural sprays don't give too much. In the case of plants that have various fractures, such dry fragments remain on the leaves. Because here they are waiting for the harvester to be able to multiply again. So in this case, I just load the plant into a plastic bag and use chemical spray with a system effect. That is, it will penetrate the plant, into the juice. And if it starts to multiply again here, then the juices will be poisoned. And I hope that this way I will get rid of the harvester. But I will have to repeat the spray after about 7-10 days. And in fact, all the plants that stood next to it and those on which there was a fracture, but you can't see it yet, I will also throw it into the bag and spray it all together, but I will do it off camera. So I hope that after this spray, after two sprays, there will be peace. Thank you. Here is a pseudobulb of a butterfly, which I transplanted recently. I think there will be nothing of it. A few people asked how to have imported plants. And as I showed you once, the philodendron furcatum very quickly lost all the leaves. He started to release a new one, but unfortunately he also rejected it very quickly. So there was a reanimation. I have already shown you this. The mold has come out a bit. Very strange. But the most important thing is that he's alive. I think he's fine. We'll see what happens to him next. The ficus that I transplanted recently and cut, the bonsai ficus, I'm sorry, ala bonsai, because I didn't mention it in the video that it's not a real bonsai, it's just ala bonsai. It's hard to say, really. He started to release leaves, so I'll cut him soon too. But I have to watch him for now, what will happen to him. We'll see what happens to him after a while. I could cut him short as well, so that he thickens and begins to branch here from the trunk. I bend him, I make a miracle. When I transplanted this plant and recorded the film, I mentioned the substrate, how to clean the roots, how to cut, such tips. So if you have ficuses that you plan to transplant and cut, I recommend you watch this film. I'll link it in the description. He showed us flowers. He started to wake up after winter. I have to transplant him, because he's in the old substrate in which he grew up for several years. With pepperonium, my brother is only worse. Nothing has improved here. The leaf fell off a moment ago. Fungus, fungal agent, but we'll see. Although I doubt it. I'll show you how funnily the Queen of One Night grows. She let out such long leaves and they began to branch. The cuttings that I cut were nicely rooted and began to grow. These ficuses that I showed you in the last film about transplanting various ficuses are not yet hung. I have to make a hook in the window and they will hang there in a round window. The roots are growing. I think it will be good for them. I have to water them quite often. Once a week. Generally, I soak my ficuses once every two weeks and once every ten days. Here I have to soak them at least once a week. It dries quickly. I got a cutting. Some time ago, a guy in one of the offices of the garden cooperative in Gruc noticed such a ficus. He took a picture, showed it to me and said, next time you will ask for a cutting. And I managed to get it. I have to cut it into pieces because such long ficuses are unlikely to root. It will be hard. So I'm waiting for a cutting. Look how cool it is. Already mature, adult leaves. I recently had a few new plants and there will be a few more new plants, but I'll show you in a separate video. I'll just put everything into one material. But I'll only show you this because I didn't have it, but I already have it. I got cymbidium. I think you know what it is. And it smells very nice. They were also in purple colors. Dark purple. But I prefer lighter colors. That's all I have to show you about plant updates at this point. Because I will discuss some things in separate episodes. Because spring is coming and there is a lot of work ahead of us. If you have ficuses that don't grow the best and shed leaves, we can try to overdo it, cut it, rejuvenate it. How to do it? I invite you to watch this video. In the meantime, I wish you all the best.