The Best Pastries & Chocolate In Paris | Kirsten Tibballs

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Paris, one of my favourite cities in the world, and certainly the leader in all things chocolate
and patisserie, can be a little bit confusing when you're coming to Paris to know where
to visit and where the best shops are.
So I've selected for you my favourite both patisserie and chocolate stores.
I'm here at the Patisserie of Cedric Braulé at the La Maryse Hotel in Paris.
Now the only day this patisserie is closed is Monday.
Do yourself a favour and drop into the patisserie.
It's open in the afternoon, but the favourites do sell out very quickly.
There's five of the fruits or his classic products that are sold, but today the Noisette
tart is already gone, unfortunately.
So we've just purchased the almond and hazelnut Paris brass, and we're going to have a taste.
So now for the taste test, if you do want to sit down and enjoy Cedric's patisseries,
you can have afternoon tea at the La Maryse, but it does take quite a while to get in because
there's a long waiting list.
So I would book at least a couple of months in advance if you're planning to go to Paris.
Now there's five patisseries to choose from when you go to Cedric's patisserie, and they
will change seasonally.
So here I've picked the choux pastry, and this particular choux pastry is what we call
a Paris brass.
So this was actually first invented for the bike race from Paris to Brest.
So the shape represents a bicycle wheel.
This particular one is filled with a combination of almond and hazelnut praline.
You can see roasted almonds on the outside.
Looks absolutely beautiful.
It's a classic French patisserie product.
Depends how you look at it, whether it's unfortunate or fortunate.
When you're dealing with choux pastry, it must be eaten on the same day it's created.
So it must be eaten today.
So let's have a taste.
So this has multiple layers in there.
So it looked like a heavier praline in the base and then a lighter cream on top.
That's quite a big morsel to fit in my mouth.
Let's see how I go.
Now I'll admit that I've actually tried at least 20 of Cedric's creations.
And this is the first time I've tried this one.
And I would say it's number two after the noisette or the hazelnut.
It's absolutely beautiful.
I'm going to go back for another spoon.
So I'm here in the production kitchen of La Marise Hotel.
So this is the baking section of the kitchen.
It's a really tight kitchen.
But they actually have 30 pastry chefs working out of here under Cedric,
who designs all the products that are created for both the restaurant,
the afternoon tea, and for his patisserie.
Sometimes it's no.
Sometimes it's 10.
How much for?
170.
Yes.
Have a look at these beautiful petit gateaux that Cedric has brought out for us to try.
So here we have the Almond Eclair.
We have the Lime, Coffee Religious, and the Pear Tart.
So we're going to break in and have a taste of these.
In his actual store, you can watch these creations being made from 6 a.m. till noon.
And then the shop opens at noon until sold out.
That's a lot.
I think we're meant to share that.
Yeah.
This is a chocolate petit gateau from Cedric,
made with 100% chocolate from Alain Ducasse.
Oh, wow.
Absolutely beautiful.
I know it's been a lot of dessert so far, but how can you say no?
This is one of the desserts at La Marise from Alain Ducasse restaurant.
It's a coffee dessert.
It's so thin.
Look at that pastry and the filling inside.
It's beautiful.
The texture of that, I shouldn't talk with my mouth full,
but the texture of that and flavour is superb.
The first Pierre Hermé Paris boutique actually opened in Tokyo in 1998.
It was then closely followed by the first Paris boutique,
which was opened in 2001.
Pierre now has stores right throughout Paris.
Some, you can take away the patisseries,
but others you can actually dine in.
Here at Pierre Hermé's of Indulge is some puff pastry,
almond cream, candied orange,
a thin layer of almond meringue and caramelised almonds.
Looks absolutely amazing.
I'm going to do the right thing and use a knife and fork this time.
So let's see.
So crunchy.
Here we go.
I feel like I'm always eating in front of you.
I must say, best Vansuari pastry I have ever tasted.
And that's a big call.
It's actually the crunch layer on top that's my favourite,
which I believe is the thin layer of almond meringue.
So it's egg white and almond.
And when that's baked, it's super, super crunchy.
Inside, there's a little bit of almond cream there
with some candied orange to it.
The orange is really quite subtle.
It's not strong at all.
But it's this texture that I keep coming back to on top,
that crunchy texture.
It has a beautiful flavour, but in the mouth, it's amazing.
I feel like a two-year-old with all the mess I made,
but that was really yummy.
Pierre Hermé is world-renowned.
There's no question about it.
But what he is most famous for
It's a combination of rose, lychee and raspberry,
which is now a very common combination,
which Pierre himself is the first one to put those flavours together.
Lagerée was first established in 1862
and became quite famous at that time for their tea rooms.
What they're world-famous for now is the macaron.
And actually, it was Lagerée that first put
two dry macaron shells together with a filling.
In September 1997, Lagerée opened at 75 Avenue Champs-Élysées,
the most famous store that Lagerée has.
Lagerée now has multiple stores in Paris and around the world.
Rather than queue for an hour for a morning tea,
I've got some takeaway, which is a little bit cheaper,
and then I can eat it at my own leisure.
Now, I've got a spread here from Lagerée,
because I couldn't choose just one thing.
It was Catherine Medici in Italy
who actually brought macarons from Italy to France.
But at that time, they were just the shell,
the biscuit, without any filling at all.
So it wasn't until the mid-19th century
that pastry chef Pierre Desfontaines
actually put the two shells together with the filling inside.
So we can actually thank Lagerée in France
for the macaron as we know it today.
So I couldn't resist buying a few macarons.
Now, every season, they bring out new macarons
and different flavours, but they do keep the classics,
like chocolate, coffee, caramel, vanilla.
I purchased a couple of different flavours to try,
one classic as well as a couple of new ones.
What I also did is I purchased a pettigato and an eclair.
So the eclair is actually their biggest seller
in terms of small cakes.
And this is the pettigato that I got.
And this is the eclair.
Chocolate eclair, of course.
Now, the eclair itself is actually pretty plain.
I would say that that is solid chocolate on top,
so pretty basic.
When you have something as simple like that,
for me, it has to taste exceptional.
But it's their best seller, so it must taste all right.
This pettigato itself is very rich.
It's chocolate, peanut and caramel.
Usually, Lagerée's style is very feminine, very pretty,
where I think this is more indulgent.
And then, of course, we have the macaron.
Now, if you're nostalgic or you're a purist,
Lagerée would be the place in Paris to go
to select your macaron,
which is where they actually originated from.
Now, I'm going to start with the eclair.
So choux pastry should be eaten on the same day it's made
because the moisture coming from the cream it's filled with
will make the pastry quite soft,
and then it's never as good to eat.
There's never really a ladylike way to eat the eclair,
so I'm going to break it in half.
Trying the chocolate eclair first.
It's got a really decadent, rich chocolate flavour.
But I'm sorry, Lagerée.
In my opinion, you're much better off
if you're a lover of eclairs going to Eclair de Genie.
The pastry chef at Lagerée is Claire Halzer.
To be honest, a lot of their products are very classic
and don't change very often,
but you will at Valentine's Day, Christmas and Easter.
You'll get a customised range for that period or season.
For me, a macaron, once it's made,
should sit for at least a day before it's eaten
so that the shell's not too crunchy.
I know that Lagerée have a sequence and a process
that the macarons go through
before they go to you at the counter.
So this particular macaron is coconut and lime.
I feel like I'm dissing two of their products.
But if I have to choose,
I much prefer Pierre Hermès macarons to Lagerée.
It's still really good and yummy.
I just find the filling in Pierre Hermès
really beautiful in terms of texture,
and it's a great contrast with the shell.
Now, this is licorice, but I tasted this before the coconut.
It's a whole other experience, much better than the coconut
in terms of flavour and texture.
Then I come to my third choice of macarons.
This one's a little bit unusual.
It's violet, chocolate and pepper.
The violet really is quite prominent,
overpowers at the start,
but then you get coming through a small amount of pepper,
which is really quite nice.
Now, macarons themselves are really sweet.
So if you're not a sweet tooth,
I would recommend you avoid the macarons
and go for something that you know won't be quite as sweet.
Now we're at the Pettigato.
And I do sound like I'm a little bit down on Lagerée,
but I want to give you my true experience
and what I think of each of the products that I actually taste.
So...
It's cute that they've got a little medallion there.
And this one's actually made of chocolate with the L on it.
A lot of the medallions with the branding on them
are made of cardboard.
So make sure you check before you bite in
that it's not actually cardboard.
So I've got peanut caramel chocolate
and marshmallow on top.
It was quite hard to cut through,
so I'm not sure if it's shortbread on the side or the base.
It is, it's peanut shortbread,
or as they would say in France,
peanut sablé.
So that's actually around the base and up the sides.
It's a dominating flavour,
but it matches perfectly with the caramel.
It's a really well thought out
and beautifully made Pettigato.
What can I say?
Patrick, Patrick Roger.
You're a lover of chocolate,
you must come here.
He often has sculptures of different creations
which are seasonal,
but just the chocolates themselves are a big drawcard.
I'm going to try his lime dark chocolate ganache
before I test the hazelnut and almond praline.
Great.
Now everybody likes different flavour profiles
when we talk about chocolate and patisserie.
I prefer classic flavours myself.
I'm never after something like
Tabasco or chilli or prawn
or something really out there.
And this is a great example of what I love.
These are almond and hazelnut praline chocolates.
They've got a milk coating
which I think matches the best with praline,
but that's my personal opinion.
Patrick Roger is famous around the world
for the quality of his chocolates.
He's actually a Meilleur Ouvrier de France,
which means he was awarded
Best Craftsman for his chocolate making skill
by the French government.
And it shines through in all of his products.
So regardless of what you choose,
I don't think you'll be disappointed.
The other advantage of a praline,
particularly if you're travelling,
is it has a really long shelf life
because it has a limited amount of water in there.
So normally if you're buying a praline,
you know that you can keep the chocolates
for an extended period of time.
Now I haven't tried this particular chocolate before,
but I have purchased these as a gift.
I think what I like about it as well,
a lot of what makes me like a product is the texture.
And you can see already by the exterior
that they've got a crunchiness on the outside,
which I know I'm going to love.
Now I promise not necessarily all of them
will go back to Melbourne,
but let's say a lot of them will
because I can't reseal the pack.
And I'm working out if I can shuffle them in
so then no one will know I ever took one.
When I enter a chocolate or patisserie store,
I always ask, what's a bestseller?
And this is one of the bestsellers,
and I can see why.
I'm here at Eclair de Genie,
otherwise known as Genius Eclair.
Now this is a patisserie by Christophe Adam.
The most popular eclair is a caramel eclair,
but they do have different eclairs
that they bring out every single month.
It's always awkward and very unladylike
to taste an eclair, but let's see how we go.
The word eclair comes from the French word lightning,
and that's because classically eclairs
are really cracked and uneven.
So to get an eclair that's not only perfect in shape
and finish is quite the challenge,
but Christophe Adam has absolutely nailed it.
Each eclair looks identical,
and no matter which store you go to,
not only here in Paris, but now globally,
they'll all look identical.
The beauty of this caramel eclair is it's a beautiful flavour
without being too bitter for a caramel or too sweet.
I loved eclair until 2002,
so I worked a lot.
I think I lived with the eclair all of my life.
And of course, with Eclair de Genie in Paris,
in China and Japan,
we have now eight countries.
I love to create a lot of new eclairs
all over the year,
and now we created 350 eclairs
in six years.
I'm here at Yann Tuberer Patisserie,
one of many here in Paris,
and I'm about to try the famous mille-feuille.
Now, they only produce a limited number of these
per patisserie per day,
and it's made when you order it
so that the pastry itself doesn't go too soft.
What's amazing with this mille-feuille,
or it's quite unique,
is the texture of the pastry and how thin it is.
So it's really, really ultra-thin,
so when you break into it,
it should break very, very easily.
What's unique about Yann's patisserie
is that the pastry chefs not only work in production,
but they also have to work here in the shops,
finishing the product,
and also serving and helping the customers.
He doesn't use any artificial food colours,
so everything is natural and everything is handmade.
So you can see, even with a plastic knife,
how easily you can actually get through the layers,
and what you're looking for in a mille-feuille
is a texture of cream that's not too firm.
Beautiful in texture, but also beautiful in flavour,
and look how thin that pastry is.
It's super, super thin,
which is why you can break into it so easily.
The reason the mille-feuille is made as you order it
is so that the pastry itself stays nice and crunchy.
If it sits for too long with the creme patissiere inside,
it will go soft very quickly.
Now, I understand there is a high risk of me
being diabetic at the end of this trip,
but with so many beautiful pastries to try,
I can't seem to stop.
I'm here at Angelina Patisserie in Rue de Rivoli.
Now, for me, this is a classic Angelina patisserie to visit.
There are a few that you can actually come to in Paris.
Now, I'm here because, for me,
this is the best hot chocolate in Paris.
It is really rich,
but when you add a little bit of creme to it,
for me, it's perfect.
I never like to pour it all out
so that I've got two cups worth of hot chocolate.
Decadent, I know,
but you'll certainly thank me once you taste it.
Well worth the trip to Paris.
I've snuck into a little corner of the patisserie.
No one's here at the moment,
so I'm going to have a taste.
This is very light and summery for this time of year in Paris,
but I love it.
Very light, very refreshing,
flavours of nougat and fruits of the forest.
Do I have any on my mouth?
This is a great food street to visit when you're in Paris.
It's one of the oldest food streets
and it also includes one of the oldest patisseries.
Let's go and take a look.
I'm here out the front of Fou Du Patisserie.
Now, this is quite unique.
They have three stores,
but what they actually do is they feature
ten of Paris' leading pastry chefs,
and they sell one product from each pastry chef.
Every month, the product changes,
so if you're short on time,
this is a great place to visit
to see a collection of ten pastries
from ten of the leading pastry chefs in Paris.
I'm here at Caramel Paris,
which is a patisserie by Nicolas Ellouin.
Now, you cannot go to Paris without a visit here.
You can actually visit Caramel
and taste the number one lemon tart in Paris.
Now, it's here, and I'm going to do you a favour.
I'm actually going to taste it for you
and then explain the different layers
so you know what to expect when you come yourself.
Here we have the famous lemon tart from Caramel
that won Best Lemon Tart in Paris.
Now, I've tasted a lot of lemon tarts
right throughout Paris,
but this one takes the cake.
It has a beautiful pastry casing,
and you can see smooth meringue,
and each lemon tart is identical in the counter.
So here we have layers of sablé,
a hazelnut caramel,
a lemon cream,
a lemon madeleine,
and of course, topped with the meringue
and a small roasted hazelnut.
I was told by a pastry chef friend of mine
that you should always eat a tart with your hands.
So let's see, this may be a little bit messy.
What makes people go back to consumer product a second time?
80% of that reason is actually texture,
and the texture in this lemon tart
is absolutely phenomenal.
You've got the crunchy sablé,
the chewy caramel,
the creamy lemon,
topped with a moist madeleine,
and then a spongy meringue.
Together, that combination of texture
and flavour is superb.
I highly recommend you come to Caramel
if only to try their lemon tart.
I'm at Alain Ducasse chocolate store here in Paris.
This is one of my true favourites,
and it's quite a unique store
because here at Alain Ducasse,
they actually create their own chocolate
from the bean.
Not only do they create chocolate bars
created from cocoa beans from all around the world
and some really quite rare
and unique cocoa beans,
but they also use that chocolate they produce
to create individual pralines
and ganache-filled chocolates.
Here at Alain Ducasse,
with all the chocolate that they make themselves,
they produce individual chocolate bars,
which are origin bars
with cocoa beans from one particular region.
They also use that chocolate
to create individual chocolates, chocolate pastes,
and a broad range of products.
The chocolate is really quite intense,
but you can pick
a particular chocolate to get
a distinctive flavour profile.
It's very cold in here.
Currently, it's 9 degrees,
but the standard temperature sits around 15 degrees Celsius
all year round
to ensure that the chocolate is stored
at the optimal condition.
What I have here is one of their
bean-to-bar chocolates that they've created
themselves from the bean.
What's quite unique about this is it tells you
where the beans are from.
This particular bean is from Venezuela.
It's 75%. It's a dark
chocolate, which means I've got 25%
sugar added.
It's made from a porcelain bean,
which is a very, very rare cocoa bean
that is white. It's very hard
to get. They have exclusively selected
the porcelain bean
from Venezuela.
It's also a
single variety. It's a Carrillo
variety. Around the world, there
are three types of cocoa beans.
There's Carrillo, Forastero
and Trinitario.
The Carrillo makes up a very small
percentage of the world's supply of cocoa.
So to have a bar actually
made exclusive with the Carrillo bean
is quite rare and
unique. What you'll actually find
in a lot of cocoa plantations now
around the world, the beans are actually blended,
so they can't tell you if it's actually
Carrillo bean. So I'm opening this
up. It's well sealed. So the first
thing when you're tasting chocolate is to
actually smell. So you want to involve
all of your senses.
It has a really intense chocolate
aroma and flavour. The next one
is visual. So we have a look to make
sure that the chocolate itself
hasn't been discoloured, so it's got
no fat bloom. Next, we're listening
with our ears and we're looking for a snap.
So when we snap the chocolate, you should be
able to hear it and that means it's got a nice
good percentage of cocoa
butter, which will make it melt and dissipate
on the palate very quickly.
So here we go with the snap.
Wow.
That's fantastic. When you're
tasting chocolate, it's very different to eating
it. So you're going to place a piece of the chocolate
onto your tongue and push your tongue
up to the roof of your mouth. Don't
chew it and just let the chocolate melt and
dissipate. So now I'm
going to discuss the flavour profile with
different types of beans from
different regions. You'll get very
distinctive flavour profiles when the
beans aren't blended. This one is
really quite fruity. I've
got notes of bananas and some
notes of berries. It's a little bit
sour, but the overall flavour is
beautiful. With a really
good quality chocolate, when you taste it like
that, if you don't drink or eat anything
else, the flavour should linger on the palate
for up to 45 minutes.
The flavour will also change
as you taste it, as it
travels through different parts of your mouth.
Now I've purchased
some individually enrobed ganaches
and I've also purchased
some chocolate bars, the Origin chocolate
bars. Now the Origin chocolate bars,
particularly dark chocolate, for me
will last forever. It'll last 20 years
or more, as long as it's kept
in the right conditions and not overheated.
The individually enrobed
ganaches will last about 3 weeks,
which is fantastic because you know you're
getting a very, very fresh product when
you purchase it.
I'm here at Un Glace Paris,
which is quite a unique patisserie
because all the cakes are made
out of ice cream. It's the only
one in Paris that does produce ice
cream cakes and the pastry chef
is Emmanuel Rion.
Emmanuel is a Mayor of the France
in ice cream, or they
say glass, in France.
So that means he was awarded the best craftsman
in France for his ice cream making
skills. What's amazing is you would
never know that all the cakes are created out
of ice cream. When you look in the cabinet
it looks like a normal patisserie
with pettigato and entremets.
They have two stores in Paris.
This particular store is in the Marais
region of Paris and has a small
section where you can actually sit down
to enjoy the cakes and pastries
or you can also take them away.
When the pastries are served,
they're served at minus 11 degrees
Celsius and they're created
fresh daily. In fact, the production
facility to create all these
cakes is here on site
in the Marais shop. What I've chosen
is a caramel milfoil
but it's actually made out of ice cream.
It's got the classic puff pastry
and I can see a meringue on the outside
but I've yet to see what's inside.
I've got a caramel sauce here which
is going to go on top of the milfoil
before I break in.
So this has vanilla and caramel
inside so I'm looking forward to tasting
it. This isn't necessarily the
most popular patisserie in Paris
but I think it's very unique. The fact
that there's so much detail in these
beautiful petit gateaux and cakes and they're
all created out of ice cream.
I don't just eat cake, I eat other
things as well in case you're wondering.
I'm here
at one of my favourite patisseries,
Michelac Paris. Now he's
an innovator and a leader in the industry
not only in France but
right around the world. He has multiple
patisseries serving both sweet
and savoury creations.
I want my cakes to represent me.
I tend to say, taste my cakes
and you'll know who I am. I try to
make cakes that have a fresh
taste, that are sexy
but that are
very tasty, that have
texture, taste, flavours
and that bring emotions. But all of that
has to stay in a form of simplicity
because I made
haute couture cakes a long time ago
it was very complicated, there was a lot
of decor, I don't want to do that anymore.
I also want cakes that are
healthier to eat. We only use organic
eggs, we use natural
colourings based on vegetables. Here on my heart
we use a colouring based on radishes.
We use more and more
non-refined sugars like
muscovado sugar or brown sugar.
I want simple
things and good
things for my body.
It's the patisserie that looks the most like me now.
I hope
you've loved all my recommendations
for the top chocolate and patisserie
stores. Probably not as much as
me. Now I'm off
to have a crepe.
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