Welcome to Cape Breton Island, an island on the northeastern end of Nova Scotia known for its coastal scenery, highlands, Celtic and French heritage, outdoor adventure, and the Cabot Trail, a 298 km drive that is said to be one of the most scenic in the world.
Experiencing the Cabot Trail in the fall has been on our bucket list for years and for our one big fall adventure this year we spent 5 days checking out its different hikes, charming towns, local eats, waterfalls, and so much more. And it did not disappoint! With beautiful foliage and dramatic views, this is easily one of the best fall road trips in Canada, if not all of North America!
👋🏼 About us Hi y’all! We’re Adam, Kathryn, and Kona, an adventurous married couple (+ pup!) living on the road in our self-converted sprinter van! You can often find us driving all around the US and Canada, scoping out the best coffee shops, eating tacos and ice cream (we're a 5+ taco and 2+ scoop household), and enjoying nature.
We help travelers spend less time (and stress!) planning their trip and more time enjoying it! Our detailed travel guides, YouTube videos, and travel resources share the must-visit local eats, popular and off the beaten path sights, and tons of tips to make planning your next adventure a whole lot easier.
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Welcome to Cape Breton Island, an island on the northeastern end of Nova Scotia
known for its dramatic coastal scenery, highlands, Celtic and French heritage,
outdoor adventure and the Cabot Trail, a 298 kilometer drive that is said to be
one of the most scenic in the world. Experiencing the Cabot Trail in the fall
has been on our bucket list for years and for the next five days we're going
on the ultimate road trip full of foliage, quaint cafes, local culture,
beautiful hikes and epic views. We are kicking off our time on the Cabot Trail
at Cape Breton Highlands National Park which spans about one-third of the Cabot
Trail. We're going to be spending today in the Inganish area of the park and
first we're at Inganish Beach. This isn't your typical white sand beach.
It is super rocky. Walking down these rocks is so hard.
You cross like a rock-a-lanch. And when the waves crash and fall on the
rocks it makes this really neat fizzy sound.
It's a pretty unique beach because on one side you have the ocean and then on
the other side you have a freshwater lake so you have your choice for
swimming and it also has some pretty spectacular views.
On the right side of this beach you have these amazing mountain views and on the
left side you have this peninsula which is where we're heading next to hike the
for almost a week now and from the little that we've seen so far it's
really reminding us of Acadia National Park
which we visited two falls ago. It has a similar mix of lush forested mountains,
rocky coastline, and the ocean plus the fall colors.
And we loved Acadia so it's safe to say that we are loving it here so far.
Although I will say we are here on the same day. We were at Acadia two years ago
and it is way less busy so bonus points for Cape Breton Highlands.
I love goats so one place that we had to check out on the Cabot Trail is Groovy
Goat Farm. They're a goat farm that also has a
shop that sells goat milk products. Some chickens. They sell goat milk
products like goat milk soap and they also have some groovy goats
that you can meet which I am so excited about.
Check out these cute fluffy guys. Hi. Oh my gosh.
And they also have gelato. It's not made with goat's milk but
we're gonna eat it while we're looking at the goats. That counts right?
We both got apple pie and pumpkin spice because it's fall y'all and I am on a
pumpkin spice diet. If you sell anything flavored pumpkin
spice, I'm getting it.
So many chunky apples in there. Super creamy.
The fall is just rushing over me. There's also an amazing place next door
called Salty Roses and Periwinkle Cafe. It's a beautiful cafe in an old
house that serves breakfast and lunch plus has a shop with local art.
We had breakfast there this morning and love their coffee and breakfast so
definitely go check them out and then come over here and meet all the
cute goats and get gelato. It'll be the best day ever.
While on the Cabot Trail, we're staying at a mix of paid National Park campgrounds
and hopefully a free spot but tonight we're staying at the Broad Cove
campground which is in the National Park near Enganish.
It's a super nice and huge campground with a beautiful beach you can walk to.
This morning we're hiking the Franny Trail which is in the Enganish area of
Cape Breton Highlands National Park. We had planned to hike it for sunrise but
it rained all day yesterday non-stop and it's still a little gloomy
this morning so we're just hopeful to get some views.
Normally these hikes we spend the majority of the time just hiking through
the forest we aren't as excited about but man in the fall when you have all
these fall colors it just makes it magical.
Well it's not quite the views we were hoping for
but it's not totally a bust you can see the ocean over there you can see
Middlehead where we hiked the other day but you can also see lots of fog rolling
in and on this side it's just a wall of fog.
Oh well you win some you lose some we still have a lot of hikes ahead and
thankfully the weather forecast the next few days
looks to be a bit better so fingers crossed but the fogginess the fall
colors just has like a moodiness to it that even though we
can't see the views we wanted it just it feels like fall up here.
If you're curious about the timing of our visit today is October 17th
2023 and we originally were supposed to be filming this video and doing all these
hikes last week but the colors didn't seem quite ready yet
so we rearranged all of our future plans so we could stay
through this week as well and I am so glad that we did. Peak fall
foliage is so hard to predict and it varies year to year
and it also varies across Cape Breton Island but I think the general consensus
is that this year this is the week to see the fall
colors. For the rest of the day we're taking a
bit of a detour off the Cabot Trail to check out an area called Meat Cove on
the northernmost part of Cape Breton Island and we hear the road to get
there is a little rough. The first part of Meat Cove Road was
paved and it wasn't the smoothest ride ever but it wasn't bad at all and now
we're on the gravel road part the part that everybody warns you about and talks
about and it's really not bad at all it's
pretty smooth so far. Yeah I don't know if the road has been recently redone
or if we've just been on so many gravel roads that nothing faces us anymore but
we only have about five kilometers left so
it could change but so far this is nicer than most gravel roads we go on so I
don't know some people say it was not worth the
treacherous roads to get there don't go it was awful but
I don't know I mean it's a little bumpy you can hear the van rattling a bit but
I don't know we've been on way worse so maybe we're just we just have a
different perspective. We have just about made it in one piece
and this is epic. I think it was a thousand percent worth
the drive. For sure that was nothing honestly that was
nothing. So this is Meat Cove it is Nova Scotia's
northernmost community and some say it got its name because the area was
popular with hunters in its early days today it is just a few homes a camp
ground a restaurant and a few trails so it is a much less developed area which
is exactly why we wanted to come out here.
We just did a quick hike up to this overlook of Meat Cove and man we have
not seen that much of Cape Breton Island yet but
this is easily the most dramatic and just wow
spot that we have seen so far and honestly it's probably one of our
favorite views that we have seen in all of Atlantic Canada. It's just a mix of
the ocean and the mountains and the fall colors.
I'm so happy after this morning and the kind of fail of a hike we're feeling a
little down but I am jazzed now.
When we drove into Meat Cove we saw this red food truck called the Lawless
Lobster and they are actually still open which is really surprising because most
things either closed for the season last week or are closing right now and
we saw they had chowder and we had to get some because it is
chowder weather and look at this oh my gosh
look at that giant claw on there oh yummy all these little other bits of
seafood bunch of potatoes in there
you know it's good when your eyes go cross-eyed we've had a lot of chowders
across the U.S. this one's up there honestly it might be one of the either
one of the best or the best we've had that is ridiculously good
this is perfect also the people running the stand were some of the nicest people
we have met in Nova Scotia so just made the experience even better
all right now that we're powered by seafood chowder we're gonna climb Meat
Cove mountain it's not that long of a hike but it's
steep and we're just like I don't know 10
seconds in and it's already bam we're gonna be powered by meat in Meat
Cove I'm not gonna lie that was a very steep
hike up but man was it worth it just look at this
view right here we get this mountain valley
and the mountainsides are just draped in these orange and yellow trees and
there's a river running through it wow hiking down from Meat Cove mountain
is downright treacherous with all the leaves on the ground especially
it being so steep you just almost can't help from just sliding down
we have spent a lot of money on campsites last week waiting on the fall
colors but tonight we are boondocking and we have this pretty epic spot
overlooking the ocean and right when we pulled up a majestic
bald eagle just flew right by so we knew this was the spot
after taking a little detour we are officially back on the Cabot Trail and
we're heading back into Cape Redden Highlands National Park for the rest of
the day and we're currently on our way to a waterfall we
have no idea how to pronounce it you basically just go down an unpaved
side road for a few minutes walk a few steps
and then bam there's the waterfall there are quite a few different
viewpoints to check out along the Cabot Trail so we're going to stop at a few
before heading to our spot for sunset this road is pretty incredible we are
just winding through the mountains and along these cliffs we just have these
golden trees lining them we're going up and down
it's windy it's steep it's so beautiful i feel like i have yellow tinted glasses
on everything is just so yellow and golden little pops of red just so
gorgeous out here and since the weather has been pretty
gloomy since we've been here just the colorful trees just add this
brightness and just make you feel just warm and happy inside and kind of
replace the sun since the sun is hiding it's hiding from us big time
if you would have blindfolded me and dropped me here i would have thought we
were in big sur california with this highway skirting along the mountainside
here in these sharp drop-offs going straight into the ocean
it looks so much like it for sunset we are hiking the skyline
trail which is not only the most popular hike in the park but probably
all of cape redmond island so they have a couple different moose
exclosures on this trail which basically is a fenced area that keeps moose out
that way all the vegetation can flourish and live and not be eaten by
all the moose and we do hear that it is kind of common
to see moose on this trail i've seen some pretty recent photos but
so far no luck for us our luck has changed we haven't seen any
moose but we see three bears a mom and two cubs down on the
hillside down there oh so cool heck yes i love moose but bears
top of the list even better we just spent about 30 minutes watching
the bears we could not stop staring at them they're just munching on grass on
the hillside just doing all the bear things
but besides the bears the view out here is incredible i can totally see why this
is the most popular hike in the park and one thing i really love about the
view which normally i wouldn't love on a nature experience
is that you can see the road this road is crazy and since we can't fly our
drone in the park it's just really cool to get a different perspective of it
and since we are actually going to be heading down this stretch of the road
tonight to get to our campground in the dark we actually drove it earlier just
so we could experience it and it is very cool from the car and it
is very cool from up here too we thought we were barely gonna get a
sunset but we got bears and an epic sunset it doesn't get much
better than that but now we're gonna run back because holy cow it's freaking cold
last night we moved over to the sheddy camp campground in the national park and
this morning we're hiking the akkadian trail which starts right near the
oh we're all sitting on daddy's lap this trail takes you up a mountain which
was a little bit steeper than we expected to a bunch of different
overlooks of the area you can see the gulf of st lawrence you
can see these mountain sides that are just speckled with
all of these colorful trees it almost looks like a bag of skittles exploded on
them and you can see quite possibly the
coolest part of the cabot trail the section where
the road just winds along this rocky cliffside and all the way down there is
the town of sheddy camp which is where we're headed next
similar to the other atlantic canada provinces nova scotia has a lot of
french heritage and sheddy camp is a french akkadian
fishing village that dates back to the late 1700s and is still loaded with
akkadian culture they even have an akkadian flag slide
i'm scared
you get going pretty fast in that
since this area has such strong french roots we couldn't pass up the
opportunity to grab some coffee from a cafe called
marguerite boutique and provision
the building it's in has been home to different general stores throughout its
hundred years and now it's this cool mix of a coffee shop and cafe
plus a boutique with tons of local art and products and some food items
it is such a beautiful spot we also got this honey lemon
cruller looks tasty holy smokes oh that's so good
wow like a little doughy yeah airy wow yeah lemon i'm not really sure
what a cruller is but i'm a big fan now i love lemon i'm gonna go for the
cruller every time now yeah the lemon nice and
tart like a lemon should be and then the honey
just kind of soothes it a little bit
oh that is perfection in heaven so good besides the island's french heritage it
also has a strong celtic heritage with the scottish gales arriving in the 1770s
in fact nova scotia's gaelic name directly translates into new
scotland there's a large initiative here to maintain the culture and one thing
that we think is super cool is that as you're driving around you'll notice that
the signs are in both english and in gaelic and every october there's
an event called celtic colors international festival which takes place
all across the island with 49 concerts and over 200 community events
the festival finished up last week and we didn't go to any of the official
events but we did go to something that you can go to
outside the festival a kaylee which is basically a community party with
cape breton fiddle music we went to the bidet gathering kaylee
to experience one and the music was incredible
about halfway through there's an intermission where they serve you tea
and oat cakes which are shortbread cookies with rolled oats that have
scottish origins buttery crispy i like it and then the
music continues
it was such a fun and upbeat way to get to experience the culture here it was
just impossible to not smile the entire time and just
tap your feet and i think i learned that the fiddle may be my new favorite
instrument i could watch her playing the fiddle forever oh it's
just so beautiful afterwards we were like we should break
out katherine's old guitar and learn how to play it then we can make music
together i guess that's what we're doing when we
get home we're starting a band oh gosh it's gonna be called the coffee
spillers that's actually kind of a cool name
mining has long been an important industry here in nova scotia and one of
the most important minerals mined was and still is gypsum at one point the
province provided six percent of the world's gypsum production
and just outside shetty camp is an old gypsum mine that's filled with water and
is now a popular swimming spot and viewpoint to walk to the lake has
this beautiful turquoise teal color and is surrounded by the gypsum rock as well
as colorful fall trees and while you can view the lake just from
the base of it the iconic view requires you to climb up some rocks back there
it's our last day on cape retin island and this morning we are headed to
marguerite which is a handful of villages along the marguerite river
and man this drive has been beautiful the rest of the cabin trail was more
along the coast you have like coast and dramatic views with all the
big mountains this one is more kind of pastoral i guess you'd say with
like more sloping mountains going along the
river just wide grassy meadows and all the
beautiful fall foliage of course and then the sun is out too and making
it just more even golden and just just magical it's gorgeous for breakfast
we came to one of the most popular places to eat on the cabin trail the
dancing goat unfortunately they do not have actual
dancing goats but they have these huge heavenly homemade pumpkin spice
lattes and some delicious looking food so i got the
breakfast sandwich has eggs cheese mayo bacon on a delicious cheddar
bun uh biscuit there actually
whoa that biscuit is so fluffy and cheesy and there's little herbs in there
it is the perfect vessel for the delicious bacon egg and cheese
and i got one of their lunch sandwiches the bungee sandwich which has
roasted chicken a satay sauce a sriracha mayo and then just tons
of veggies it looks so good and it also looks like it's going to be
so hard to eat oh my gosh
that is so delicious the sauces are nice and creamy and are packed with flavor
the chicken is nice and tender but i think my favorite part are all the
veggies they are just so crispy and fresh we also got an autumn bisque i
have no idea what's in it but it just sounded perfect for a nice
fall day like today
whoa it's nice and thick and creamy i'm sure it has some kind of squash or
something in there that was an 11 out of 10 spot
for our final stop on our cape breton island road trip we're at egypt falls
which is a very short hike but we hear it is
very steep we have just about made it to the base of the falls and before coming
here we had read so many reviews about how
dangerous and scary and treacherous the hike down here was and
it definitely was steep and it could get really muddy if it was raining but
overall we did not find it to be too bad i think some other groups were
struggling more than we were but we've done so many difficult hikes that i
think our just perception of what's challenging is a little different than
others but man this waterfall is so beautiful
after all the rain we've had this waterfall is raging i
love that it has two decks to it and they're so wide and just
uh it's so impressive fall is our favorite season and road tripping the
cabot trail was our one big fall adventure for this year and it did not
disappoint the fall colors quaint towns cute cafes
and delicious treats and just beautiful nature around every corner
makes this easily one of the best fall road trips in canada
if not all of north america our time in nova scotia isn't quite over yet though
we still have about a week and a half left here and we're heading southwest in
the province to check out its largest city
small charming coastal towns beaches and so much more
do a little dance almost give me a heart attack
the ambulance almost had to come for me because i almost just had a heart attack
that was so scary i don't i don't think i can do it
i can't i'm scared i don't know do i just like jump just run and jump
oh my gosh i did it i know that wasn't a leap frog but i did it