Lerne das Schneiderhandwerk von der Pike auf. Wir werden oft gefragt, warum wir unser Wissen kostenlos teilen. Als eine der ältesten Schneidereien der Welt haben wir Generationen von Wissen, Übung und Erfahrung gesammelt. Als preisgekrönter Lehrbetrieb werden seit 10 Generationen Lehrlinge und Meister bei uns ausgebildet und Designer weitergebildet.
Es gibt immer weniger Ausbildungsbetriebe, um das Schneiderhandwerk von der Pike auf zu erlernen. Und auch wir können in unserem Betrieb jährlich nur 1-2 neue Lehrlinge aufnehmen und ausbilden.
„Leider merken wir diesen Trend immer stärker. Es freut mich natürlich, dass sich so viele Menschen für dieses schöne Handwerk interessieren. Aber gleichzeitig tut es mir weh, jährlich duzende, qualifizierte Bewerber abzulehnen, die unser schönes Handwerk erlernen wollen.“ - Stefan Wimmer
As a tailor, it hurts my heart when someone tries so hard to sew a nice piece
and then the joy is crushed by the wrong tension on the sewing machine or the overlock.
That's why I'm going to show you how to set the tension on the sewing machine correctly.
In the Schneider-Akademie, I will now show you for free how to set the overlock and the zigzag correctly.
Just click on the link below the video.
We'll start with the tension on the sewing machine.
I take the spool cap and the spool and put it in the cap.
And when I pull it on, I have to turn the spool clockwise.
Then I thread it through the tension.
And when I pull it on like this, it's so loose, but it doesn't go down by itself.
If the lower thread is very tight or so loose that when I hold it like this, it goes down by itself,
then this screw, the second screw here, is released first.
The second one regulates the tension.
You can do this with a small screwdriver or, if you want, with a fingernail.
And then you immediately notice that a quarter turn or a half turn is enough.
You don't need much of that.
Then the tension is already set differently.
So with feeling.
And if it is so that it almost slides down by itself due to its own weight, then we are set correctly.
And it is important to always set the lower tension first.
And if it fits, adjust the upper tension accordingly.
I then put the cap in front of it.
I fasten the spring so that the spool cannot fall out.
So, and when it's in, I try it carefully with the sewing machine.
Yes, if it works, then I know I have used it correctly.
The tension on the sewing machine.
The thread runs through here, through the tension.
That's where the regulator is over here.
This is recorded for each machine, but in principle they all work the same.
The thread has to go through somewhere.
The thread lifter, which regulates the tension in the same way as the needle.
It has to go through there and then down to the needle.
With all machines that can sew zigzag, the needle belongs in such a way that the slot is in front of the needle.
Most of these machines have a flat piston.
That means you can only use it like that anyway.
And always pull the needle all the way up and with feeling.
There are 80s, 90s, 100s needles.
Most thin fabrics are sewn with 80s.
And the 90s is such an all-round needle.
For jeans and so on, you take a 100.
The higher the number, the thicker the needle.
When you sew a jersey, you need an extra needle for the sewing machine.
A jersey needle.
The tip is not quite as sharp, but you can only see it under an enlargement glass.
It's a little bit rounded and not as sharp as for normal fabrics.
If I'm too far now, I take a piece of lining or thin fabric and put it across,
i.e. with the elastic side in the machine and sew it across.
And then I pull the thread tight apart.
And then the thread tears.
Here the top is torn and the bottom is torn.
If both of them tear pretty much at the same time, then I know that my tension is right.
If only the top thread was torn now, then the top thread would be too tight,
too tight and I would have to turn the tension a little looser.
If the bottom was torn, then the top thread is too loose and I would have to tighten it a little.
Because we've already adjusted the bottom properly and now we only adjust the top tension.
So either looser or tighter.
Again, if the top thread is torn, the top thread is too tight and has to be loosened.
If the bottom thread is torn first, the top thread is too loose and I have to tighten it a little more.
The machine can zigzag straight, buttonhole.
That's the most important thing.
Zigzag to finish.
You don't need an overlock at the beginning, but the household machine is really enough for the first units.
And later, when it's fun, you want to add something more compact.
Now you have adjusted the machine correctly and I wish you a lot of fun sewing.
If you are also interested in adjusting the overlock and the zigzag machine,
then I will now show you how to do it free of charge from the Schneider Academy.
Just click on the link below the video.
