"Ol' Buddy" Noodles from Nanning (老友面)

Asian Food
810 followers
36 Video Views·May 6, 2023
There's certain combinations of flavors that just work. Basil and tomato, apples and cinnamon,
kombu shiitake and dried fish, cilantro, lime, and chilies. You know, the stuff that's beloved
worldwide for a good reason. And today, we wanted to introduce you to another combination that we
believe belongs in that same illustrious league, the laoyou or old buddy flavor profile.
Hailing from the city of Nanning in the center of Guangxi, it's most commonly seen in noodle or
rice noodle soup form, and is a mix of garlic, douchu aka Chinese fermented black beans,
fermented chili sauce, and pickled bamboo shoots. Together, they are more than the sum of their
parts – it's an aggressively delicious combination that not only works for noodles,
but is also something that you can totally get creative with.
Now, in Nanning, there's definitely a bit of mythology surrounding the genesis of this
flavor profile… the only thing that people can seem to agree on is that it was serendipitously
invented using relatively random ingredients from the cupboard. Our favorite story revolves
around a likely apocryphal teahouse. The story goes that the teahouse had a beloved regular,
you know, the sort of customer that blurs that line between friend and patron. There was one
week when the owner of the establishment noticed that his regular hadn't come in for a few days,
and inquired around about his whereabouts. Apparently, the customer was bedridden battling
a bad cold, and so the teahouse owner decided to go over and whip up a hot soup for their old buddy
using what he could find in his buddy's pantry. The specific mix of chili and pickled bamboo
apparently made the sick customer completely sweat out his cold, and he was able to come
out to the teahouse the very next day. Now, obviously, don't hold us to any claims of
restorative properties, but what we can promise is that this soup is absolutely delicious,
and not overly difficult to boot. Before we get into it though, let's swing back to those
primary components, because I can already hear a few echoes of, but Chris, Steph, I don't think
I can find pickled bamboo shoots. Which, like, fair point. See, this is suancun, sour bamboo
shoot, a mildly stinky shoot that gets both its sourness and its depth via lacto-fermentation,
and while we'd love to teach you how to make it one day, as far as I know it's just as impossible
to get fresh bamboo shoot outside of China anyway. That said, what is available outside of China is
this stuff, packaged pickled bamboo shoots. They're a little more piquant and missing out
on a bit of funk, but they have the advantage of being super available on both Amazon and Wee,
and they can totally work in a pinch. Second ingredient we're subbing today,
what would be a Guangxi-style fermented chili sauce. Now luckily, this stuff is basically
just the standard mix of fermented chilis, garlic, and ginger, so we'll be swapping in the actually
internationally available Hunan duojiao, aka, chopped chilis. And if you can happen to find
any Guizhou zhaojiao pickled chili, that'd be even closer. Last sourcing bit, douchi,
fermented black soybeans. Easy enough, I promise, these are super available pretty much everywhere
under the name Yangjiang Preserved Beans, and ginger version is also okay. Great ingredient,
recommended to have around. So. High level overview time. First you'll
by giving them a squeeze, slice, and a quick toast. Then you'll mince up some garlic and do
so together with the douchi, and because we're doing noodles today, separately boil your noodles
to about al dente. Then we'll prep a bit of meat, today some lean pork together with a bit of liver,
and give it a quick marinade. After that, we'll prep a simple little sauce for a soup,
and then make said soup by frying the pork, our laoyou holy trinity, and adding in the sauce
together with some stock. Then we'll just finish it all off with our liver and noodles,
and that's pretty much it. So. Right. Bamboo shoots. Here we're using
this package, again, totally available on Amazon and probably your local Chinese supermarket,
four sticks to a serving. Give it a squeeze and a julienne. Then, a quick toast. This was
just a dry walk over a medium high flame, quickly toasted until dry and ever so slightly charred,
or about two minutes. Next up, three cloves of garlic, just give that a quick mince and chop
it together with a half tablespoon of those douchi or black beans, and set those aside.
Now, let's talk some noodles. Today we'll be using a bit of fresh alkaline egg noodles,
which are a traditional choice for the dish… but, don't let this be a barrier for you to
make the soup. Another classic choice at noodle shops in Nanning is rice noodles,
and Guangxi-style rice noodles are super similar to Vietnamese rice noodles,
so some pho noodles would also work great. But really, use what's convenient. Cantonese wonton
noodles would also be great, ditto with Japanese ramen noodles, and if push comes to shove,
some instant ramen noodles certainly wouldn't be bad. Just cook your noodles a choice according
to your package of choice. For us using fresh noodles, this was just a quick 30 second dip
in hot water, together with another quick dip in cool water to stop the cooking process.
We'll be finishing these guys in our soup so roughly al dente is perfect.
Then, just a bit, optional for any vegetarians in the room, 40 grams worth to a serving cut
into thin sheets, then marinated with an eighth teaspoon salt, quarter teaspoon sugar,
half teaspoon cornstarch, eighth teaspoon soy sauce, quarter teaspoon liaojiu aka Shaoxing
wine, mixed well, then coated with about a half teaspoon of oil. Then for the pork liver,
this was also another 40 grams worth, also cut into thin sheets, also mixed with the same marinade.
And if pork liver's difficult for you to find, feel free to just double the aforementioned pork
and marinade quantity instead. Then lastly, sauce. Convenient enough to prep ahead,
this was just one tablespoon of soy sauce, one tablespoon rice vinegar, one teaspoon oyster
sauce, quarter teaspoon sugar, an eighth teaspoon each salt and chicken bouillon powder, and a
sprinkle of white pepper powder. Mix well, set aside, and now we can make our soup.
So. To some sort of cooking vessel whose seasoning you won't annihilate with a sour soup,
toss in about a half tablespoon lard or whatever, and over a medium flame toss in your pork.
Fry that til it's cooked, or about one minute, then remove. Now go in with another half tablespoon
of lard or whatever, and still over a medium flame add in your chopped garlic docher mixture
together with a half tablespoon of the fermented chopped chilis. Quick mix, then in with bamboo
shoots. Another quick mix, then in with your prepared sauce. Fry all that together for about
15 seconds, then pour in 600ml of stock. Here we're using pork stock but chicken or vegetarian
would also be great. Now let all that come up to a boil, add back in your pork and also toss
in the liver. Liver's added at the very end so as not to overcook. After a quick 15 seconds,
toss back in your noodles, cook it all together for about another 30 seconds, and out. Sprinkle
over a generous amount of sliced scallion, and with that, your old buddy noodles are done.
So as we already talked about in the video, you can do a lot of things with this soup base. You
can use so many different kinds of noodles, some shops wouldn't even use stock, they would just
use lard and then fry up some minced pork at the beginning. And some would even add tomatoes to it,
which we're not a big fan of. The point is, this base is very versatile, you can do whatever you
want with it, so just go have fun and play. Alright, check out the recipe in the description
box, a big thank you for everyone that's supporting us on Patreon, and of course,
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