海派海旗袍（上）——上海滩百岁老裁缝—海派旗袍之父； The Soul of Shanghai Style Cheongsams——The Cheongsam Tailor

From the nostalgic illness of the beauty of the Republic era to the stage of the New York Metropolitan Chu Hongsheng the last qipao interview on the Shanghai scene has seen both sorrow and joy and has seen prosperity Fashion comes and goes but the craftsmanship remains Outstanding artisans Let's get to know the cheongsam artisan Chu Hongsheng This is a nursing home near Changle Road in Shanghai The elderly here are mostly in their eighties They live a peaceful life Few people know that one of them is a living legend That is the last tailor interviewed for the Shanghai Bund Master Qiu Hongsheng Chu Hongsheng is 99 years old he spent 80 years before entering the nursing home using his ruler and needle he made exquisite pieces for the Shanghai folk music community that can be passed down through generations Classic of the Shanghai-style Cheongsam China's birth rate is very good The first place is for the company In terms of socializing There is Qingqing There are stars of all colors And there is Baiya Chu Hongsheng was born in 1918 in Suzhou A tailor shop apprentice who arrived in Shanghai in 1933 was in Shanghai that same year when the Shanghai-style cheongsam had already broken away from traditional cheongsam styles The constraint that highlights a woman's curvaceous beauty Chu Hongsheng was born at the right time And was naturally endowed with a peach Three years later He tailored a dress for the actress Butterfly To make a dress White lace embroidered cheongsam Instantly stunning on top Lace material Has openwork Has purple Performance of lace material Purple fabric eighty years later this lace cheongsam is displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York intricate overlapping stitching elegant and smooth tailoring The spectators were amazed 2014 Chu Hongsheng finally put down his ruler and needle and bid farewell to nearly eight decades of craftsmanship But his life had never left the cheongsam The Tongwu Dao Shanghai International Market Abundant all year round That old Te Gong market As the business base The pesticide industry came from our country Britain Germany Agriculture Luo Zhou clapped himself on the back Zhou Zhuguang was a long-time friend of Chu Hongsheng He opened a well-known cheongsam shop in Shanghai Chu Hongsheng was his partner They met in 1998 Zhou Zhuguang said that knowing Chu Hongsheng changed his own life I said he was a god Many guests he didn 't need to talk to them he could tell their three- dimensional character and he could accurately describe it Very very pure It seems like only cheongsams are in his mind I think his whole life is meant for cheongsams The process of Shanghai -style cheongsams is generally divided into Measuring cutting making the pattern and stitching - four steps - in Chu Hongsheng's hands - these processes - are no longer rigid traditional techniques It is the subtle and secretive balance between reserve and sensuality that flows from a woman 's aura This is the cheongsam craftsmanship that Chu Hongsheng understood over eight decades Starting to make cheongsams we mainly exported cheongsams Then Master Chu came and he suggested that we make high-end custom cheongsams So we gradually began Preparing a high-end custom cheongsam High-end custom fabric Handwork is an important part The production of Che Hongsheng's cheongsam Deeply shocked Zhou Zhuguang Under Chu Hongsheng's guidance Zhou Zhuguang reintroduced the concept of high-end custom-made Shanghai- style cheongsams back to the Shanghai scene Chu Hongsheng at the age of eighty also reopened his school Continuing the legacy of the Shanghai-style cheongsam When you get old you just get old When you get old it's gone By the time her bones grow old the old age is gone This time made an eight-decade cheongsam The cheongsam of the eight-decade cheongsam Make a new cheongsam from it When you get old you have to grow up When I first came my daughter was this tall brought her to the unit she always remembered how tall my daughter was she said she treated me like her daughter back then it felt like she was serious She wants everything to be effortlessly perfect We had a customer who made a suit He didn't really think about how much time it would take He came to pick it up but didn't get it My master personally delivered it to him in the evening He was nearly ninety years old then He was about to give it to me That's how it came about Zhu Jingyou Lost to Chu Hongsheng in 1983 More than thirty years of effort A fine measuring tape makes the fire truly refined This garment The entire garment The Shanghai-style cheongsam requires measuring twenty-six points on the body including the bust waist and the narrowest part known as the "waist " which are the key measurements at these three points Precise measurements lose their effectiveness don't measure the customer's body too precisely if you take the customer's body shape into account the body shape will be difficult to handle you must take care of the customer He will make up for the flaws If you have a small stomach he will make it very flat If you are very thin the rope will be too tight It might keep using the belt here You must check carefully For example bust size Unlike the requirements for body measurements the techniques of the pattern maker require absolute precision Traditional Chinese clothing materials did not have a pattern-making process After measuring the body it relied on the craftsman's experience Direct cutting Although excellent craftsmen can achieve perfect accuracy However many distinctive cheongsam patterns have become unknown with the passing of the artisans Even using cardboard First tie it tightly then place it on the fabric to cut this makes it more accurate and it can be used almost invisibly by having a tied shape down it can achieve uniformity this fabric for this piece Change the color Change the fabric You still use this cardboard It still comes out the same size Now Making the pattern has become an essential step in Haipai cheongsam It not only retains the shape It also provides the best example of master-disciple transmission Cutting is the most complicated step in the process of making a cheongsam The craftsmen of Chu Hongsheng's generation applied all the techniques of traditional Chinese clothing cutting The making of a Shanghai-style cheongsam requires a journey of three years for an apprentice to grasp the basics and ten years of hard work to truly master the craft Hou Yinghao is a devoted disciple of Chu Hongsheng He learned from Chu Hongsheng that the hand must be skillful the sewing thread is lifeless the hand is alive the needle of the sewing machine must also be the finest kind Some people tap quickly some people tap slowly the tines here are not straight they don't look good when worn they are crooked and uneven the charm of the Shanghai- style cheongsam lies in its smooth and body-hugging fit The wearer can display a rhythm that complements their own temperament while saluting and walking The so-called "living type" refers to the real-time awareness of this rhythm I have been away for more than three years since I grew up The national flag is not used much We fought a war and it's easy to get out of practice So we started working a year later We must go to work After the material is completed Then use golden buttons to decorate it We make buttons according to the fabric of the clothing the ping the style of the clothing the body size of the person which all differ so the requirements vary What pattern of flower matches what button and the flexibility of the button The pinnacle of the Haipai cheongsam embroidery technique is the button and loop fastening Various styles depend on the skillful and flexible application The central idea of making flower-shaped buttons must be clearly understood Then no matter how it changes it never goes beyond its origin in Chinese culture things that represent beauty and auspiciousness can all become the shape of a button the subtlety of its use lies entirely in the mind of the creator a cheongsam It can be fully activated Chu Hongsheng's disciples have systematically inherited the craftsmanship of Ha-style cheongsam When passing on the Ha-style cheongsam the flame is passed on and the inheritance of the Ha- style cheongsam way continues It will still take time and opportunity Because of Master Chu in the era when he was an apprentice he said that an apprentice studies for three years and helps for three years requiring six years of apprenticeship Every apprentice who comes out of it Everyone has to support their family He basically has to learn all the work procedures So now it's more likely to be an era of specialization meaning each person each step Break it down into each step and improve each step according to Zhou Zhuguang division of labor is a trend of the times the inheritance of the art of Ha-style cheongsam Innovation is also about constantly injecting fresh vitality into industries that have a glorious history of over a century Your cheongsam has opened it has opened in the middle it has opened it has opened the nose Opened a mid-level in the West in Alaska there is that cheongsam Western breed betting there so people check if you have a new breed Shanghai-style cheongsam from the Republic era It is mostly subtle and gentle The times are changing rapidly The style and design of the cheongsam have also undergone changes Some of them are painted The painted ones Many of them are painted Some clothes just have that feeling but after being drawn many of them ended up becoming the fashion of the time Zhang Chen is the wife of Zhou Zhuguang The new-style cheongsams designed in the shop mostly came from his hand This cheongsam is called "Phoenix Butterfly " named after the design of some phoenix butterflies on our phoenix crown It actually incorporates the technique of three-dimensional cutting The purpose is to show the world that this is our cheongsam it is also more diverse and it can keep up with the world's aesthetic perspective a cheongsam that today people see as traditional clothing But the Hai-style cheongsam was actually a product of the workshops that were influenced by the Western winds a century ago resulting in a new type of fabric It can continue the reputation of the Shanghai-style cheongsam However no matter how the styles change the hand-made Shanghai-style cheongsam always retains a more refined flavor This is thanks to the artisans The persistence in craftsmanship Such persistence is not easy This thing has to be made with time So people who learn this profession In the past there were many Now relatively few My disciples have been many but some have stopped doing it They just don't want this hardship It's a fast-paced society after all This kind of thing really needs to be done slowly Every Friday Chou Hongsheng goes with Zhou Zhuguang Go to the Peace Hotel in Shanghai Attend the Cheongsam Night event Here in Shanghai Many cheongsam enthusiasts have gathered Heard that Master Chu is coming Everyone is full of anticipation Activities related to the cheongsam make him very happy Places like the Peace Hotel are ones he used to go to often There are so many old friends and regular customers This is Chu Hongsheng's happiest time In the flower-filled scenery Amidst the elegant and delicate fragrance of clothing and shadows Chu Hongsheng will recall the warm ginger water The old memories with Enka's light Cheongsam was something he could never let go of in his entire life Our Master Chu still has one last wish to have the cheongsam restored to its original form You're not even going to the ancestral temple are you The land was just developed so you have to wait until after you're a hundred years old Then come back again Since 1933 Chu Hongsheng's life has been dedicated to the Shanghai-style cheongsam and over the course of more than eight decades the aesthetic of the Eastern woman's body has undergone many transformations Under the vast current of history Chu Hongsheng carries the elegant years of the Shanghai- style cheongsam over nearly a century as master artisans age but their craftsmanship endures The legend continues