Competing Against Climbing's BIGGEST Youtuber

RockShades
98 followers
4 Video Views·Dec 20, 2022
Today I have the pleasure of teaming up with Magnus at his new gym in Bergen.
We're combining both our strengths and weaknesses and setting boulders for each other,
which will consist of both pure campusing, Magnus' strength and my weakness,
and cracks, my strength and Magnus' weakness.
The rules are, both cracks must be set with,
any other grips are allowed to be used to finish the problem,
we have 15 minutes to set the boulder problem for each other,
and when climbing the boulder, no feet are allowed, just campusing.
Magnus is up first.
What's the tactics?
So the tactics is that you have to use both volumes in the beginning,
so I get rid of them pretty early on,
but I don't want to put them too low because I feel like that's cheating,
so this is like reasonable height I feel like to start with.
Put in one screw in the beginning so that I can adjust them a little bit,
and I want them to be perfect for my hand.
You're going perfect hands for you.
For me, yeah, Pete you have bigger hands,
but anything is going to fit your beefy hands though, so.
Is it too big?
Might be a little bit too big, but it's fine.
I'm going to have two of them, so it's not going to matter.
I want to get past the crack as soon as possible,
as quickly as possible,
but at the same time I feel like putting them too low,
that would be cheating,
so I definitely want to jam, just not too much.
Have you practiced any jamming since the last time we climbed together?
Zero.
It's like an annual thing for me.
You got two cracks at the beginning.
Now it should be more like dynamic campusing,
but it's only like two moves to get started,
and then you go into just something else.
Just a crimp I think,
and I thought about like a move where this is too bad to hold,
so you just have to quickly go into it,
match and then explode up to something.
That sounds like your style, right?
Oh, that's exactly what I'm great at.
I'm just trying to set something that is a little bit of both our styles kind of.
I think the last time we set together was in Christensen.
And I think it took us, well you were pretty quick,
but I think I probably took like two hours.
You did a lot of tweaking on that one,
but I mean that was a really cool boulder though, so.
I think this might be too bad.
I was thinking of mashing coming in from this,
and then just using that momentum to go again,
but I think I need to put another hold,
I mean I could tilt it a little bit,
but I don't have time,
so I just need to put on an extra hold I think.
Are you going to set a move into the crack?
Well, you have to start in the crack.
Oh, you have to start in the crack.
You start like this.
Okay, but how low do you start in the crack then?
As high as you can reach.
So it's like one, two moves,
and then you do that.
But I still think that just doing those two moves puts me out of my way,
so okay, now I'm ready to try it.
You're happy?
Crack clubs?
Yes.
You think it's going to help me though?
Yeah, two moves.
Best crack clubs on the market,
I mean the best one I've tried.
I think though, even though it's only two moves,
it's going to cost me a little bit.
I barely stuck that actually.
I'm excited to see you try this.
Yeah, that's going to be tricky for me I think.
That was like a, what they do in competitions,
like the little paddle,
so like double, what they call it, double clutch.
Double clutch, I guess.
You do a lot of that, don't you?
There's not a lot of that in crack clubbing, I guess.
So I'm just going to warm back up again.
Yeah.
I think what I should actually do is maybe slightly recreate that last move.
Yeah.
You know what I mean?
That looks good.
Yeah.
That looks good, yeah.
Yeah?
I think you're ready.
I think you're more explosive than you think.
Yeah.
What do you actually realistically think my chances are?
I think 65%.
65?
Yeah, you're going to do it.
I'm going to do it.
Come on Pete.
Come on.
That's good.
That's a long way.
That's a long way last time.
That's a long way.
Oh my goodness, you made that look so easy.
Change your plan.
I'm going to change the plan.
I'm going to go sloper, go again to the good one,
and then try and do that woke up double clutch.
Come on.
Go again.
Yeah, come on.
That was close.
That was close, yeah.
That was close.
I just got to hold it.
Come on Pete.
Get it.
It's a hard move.
It's a hard move for my little arms.
I'm going to have to set something spicy on this crack then, aren't I?
You're going to have to set something that I can't do.
Yes.
That should be pretty easy actually.
I'm going to go thin to wide, so you have to cover all crack sizes.
I'm going to put them towards the top.
Yeah, so I'm going to like pump you out a little bit.
And then like hit you with some crack.
Yeah.
The important thing is the crack here, so I need to get the crack right.
Spend the time on the crack.
I'm going to go for the thin entry move.
Okay, four minutes and 20 seconds.
Oh, you're starting low.
I'm doing like a big first move.
This is still going to be hard for me, I think.
I think the crack was really hard towards the end.
Okay, so because we've got the crack trainers out today,
we're actually doing a 20% discount on all the crack trainers
in our web shop for the next few days.
So you want to go down into the description.
We've got a discount code in there.
Use that at checkout and you can get 20% off the crack trainers.
So first try.
Yeah, first try, yeah.
Do you think?
Yeah.
Yeah, I think I'm confident.
Yeah, let's go.
The beginning looks easy.
Even the first part of the crack looks easy,
but then as the crack becomes more wide, it looks very hard.
I'm interested to see how far the last move is.
I don't really know.
It doesn't look very far, but you know when you're going out jams,
sometimes things can feel a lot further than they actually are.
Like I don't know, maybe I should try to dyno from lower down.
Like go as high as it feels comfortable instead of trying to go too high
because if I go too high, I might not be able to pull anymore, you know?
So encompassing cracks is like sort of slow going, you know?
Like having to sort of like lock off, seat the jams.
Like it's not, it never looks smooth, I don't think.
And this for me is the worst jam fist.
I don't like that.
It's very uncomfortable.
I feel like this bone is sticking into it.
Yeah.
And for me, it just really hurts.
You chose well.
Don't break your wrist.
That was sketchy.
I think I might go right hand leading at the crack.
Do something.
Come on.
Oh man.
It's too far.
Too far to the left.
Yeah.
I'm going to go with speed.
I'm going to try to do it a little bit faster than you did.
Yeah.
I think that's my only chance because I can't fluff around on those cracks like you did.
Even that low down is hard for me.
Yeah.
Thumbs in.
Thumb in?
Yeah.
Okay.
I feel like there's definitely some finger strength involved in jamming too.
This way?
Yeah.
Like flat fingers?
Yeah.
Paddling.
It's very strange though.
I feel like it's a very different kind of strength than crimping.
There's no chance.
And for me, it doesn't matter if we put down the top hold.
So I can't get past that.
Even if you put the top hold like one meter down.
Yeah.
I would still not do it.
Just so we have a full ascent of the boulder.
Yeah.
Brought the top hold in a notch to the right.
So we'll see if we can complete it like that.
Good.
Nice.
What is this place called, by the way?
Thanks very much for this new climbing wall.
And your new wall that's just opened in Bergen.
Yeah.
For letting us sit here and use the gym and stuff.
And thanks for joining us for the video, Magnus.
Yeah, of course.
