We spent 3 days backpacking the Cirque of the Towers to Fremont Loop Trail in Wyoming’s Wind River Range and it was INCREDIBLE! With gorgeous, jagged mountains, beautiful lakes, tough passes, epic campsites, pesky mosquitoes, and the BEST post-hike burgers, it was an unforgettable few days in the mountains.
👋🏼 About us Hi y’all! We’re Adam, Kathryn, and Kona, an adventurous married couple (+ pup!) living on the road in our self-converted sprinter van! You can often find us driving all around the US and Canada, scoping out the best coffee shops, eating tacos and ice cream (we're a 5+ taco and 2+ scoop household), and enjoying nature.
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Can't wipe the smile off my face
That looks so brutal
That was really dang hard
The views just keep getting better and better
For our first adventure back in Wyoming, we explored the Pinedale area
Including a gorgeous hike, delicious local coffee, learning mountain man history, kayaking at Green River Lakes, and going to a pitchfork fondue
We're currently en route to our next destination in Wyoming, a rugged range of the Rocky Mountains called the Wind River Range
The area we're visiting is a 57 mile drive southeast from Pinedale and we'll share more about what we're up to in a bit
But first we have to make the trek down a dirt road to the Big Sandy Trailhead
We made it to the Big Sandy Trailhead and it took us a little over two hours to get here from Pinedale and the road
Out here was not nearly as bad as I was fearing it was gonna be
And for the next few days, we're going to be backpacking the Cirque of the Tower to Fremont Loop Trail here in the Wind River Range
Which is a US bucket list hike for us
The hike is gonna be about 30 miles with a little over 4,000 feet elevation
And we'll be splitting it up over three days and two nights, which will definitely be our hardest backpacking trip yet
We're just gonna sleep here at the trailhead tonight get our final shower in for the next few days and then tomorrow morning
We're gonna hit the trail early for our first big day of hiking
We have officially started the trail and unlike some of the other backpacking trips
We've done like the enchantments which require a lottery crazy lottery system to get a permit
All you have to do for this hike is just self-register at the trailhead. So it's super easy
Our goal today is to get to Shadow Lake
It's gonna be our biggest day a lot of miles and a lot of obstacles along the way
So a quick little map update so far the trails been mostly just through the forest
There hasn't been too much to show what we started right here
And then we split off to go clockwise right there and we are all the way up here about 2.3
Miles in and just a little over an hour
From the reports we read and when we call the ranger station yesterday before we came out here
And we heard and read about all these
Down trees that were blown over on a windstorm that happened on Labor Day weekend of 2020 last year
And apparently it was a thousand year windstorm one of the craziest one storm they've ever seen
So we're just hitting this section here
It kind of covers up the trail and we're really having to pay attention to our all trails map because you just can't tell where
To go the trees are just everywhere as you can see so adds a fun little challenge
We just got through a big patch of those down trees
What would you say like a quarter to a half a mile of it? Yeah, probably
It's no joke with these packs on your back. It makes it extra hard
First break at one of the first major lakes on the trail dad's Lake has this gorgeous view of the mountains. We're pretty hungry
We've been going about six point three miles and about three and a half hours so far
We're probably about halfway to our stopping point for the day
So we're just gonna rest enjoy having these packs off of our backs and just eat some good snacks. Oh
Yeah, that's good
We are exactly nine miles in
Starting to get a little tired. Oh
But it's such a rewarding feeling to just know that we are carrying everything we could ever need to survive on our back
Right now makes you feel so strong and powerful and also so exhausted
The views just keep getting better and better
We have finally made it to Shadow Lake and check it out. It is gorgeous
It took us a little over 12 miles and a little over seven hours to get here
We are very tired and we're gonna go find a home for the night
It feels so good to finally lay down after that long hike
We ended up getting a really sweet spot with some amazing mountain views just out the window here
You're supposed to camp 200 feet away from the lake so we don't have a lake view from this spot
But the mountain views is just unbelievable and we're like surrounded by these rocks. So it's pretty secluded and nice and quiet
Like we're gonna lay here for a little bit and rest up if we lay here too long. We might
Kona's already totally knocked out
We
Woke up from our nap ready to eat and now it's pouring
While Adams outside cooking dinner Kona and I are hanging out here in the tent because one as you may hear it is raining
Again, and two the mosquitoes are so bad
We've heard that the mosquitoes are really bad, especially in July in the Wind River Range
And they hadn't been that bad most of the day, but just standing around outside trying to cook
They were just swarming us swarming Kona. We bought these cool little face nets to wear
But Kona didn't have one
so we came back into the tent and the big downside of being in bear country is that you're not really supposed to eat in
Your tent because you don't want food smells in your tent
So Adams outside in the pouring rain, and I guess we will be eating outside in the pouring rain, too
Pretty much every backpacking trip and camping trip. We've gone on we've eaten Wild Zora backpacking meals
But since we're out here for two nights, we wanted to try something different still love Wild Zora still highly recommend them
Love them, but we couldn't pass up the Pad Thai with chicken and it actually smells and looks pretty dang good
Mm-hmm. That tastes just like Pad Thai
peanut buttery chicken
delicious noodles rice noodles
This is good after a long hard day hiking. This is actually really solid if you didn't tell me this was a backpacking meal
I probably would not know we added the peanuts that it came with so it has a nice crunch
Then we add this lime powder it came with so it's very very limey
Maybe almost a little too limey, but it's it has such good flavor
Mmm, so our second meal is Santa Fe rice with beans Santa Fe style rice and beans with chicken and notice here
Says two servings. They both say that
We are hungry. So
We're eating one bag basically, yeah
This one's really good to taste exactly how you would imagine rice beans
Chicken seasoning, but it also has hatched chilies in there
You can see it all against the bag there and you can really taste those they taste really good
This one could use a good pinch of salt. But other than that, it's really good. This one's super good, too
I do agree on the salt comment though. It's kind of funny. We're having like Mexican food and Thai food for dinner
It's kind of a weird combo to be like switching back and forth, but they're both they're both really good
I think the pad Thai is my favorite, but this one's also pretty good and for dessert we have
Reese's Pieces
As we mentioned before the Wind River Range is home to bears both black bears and grizzly bears
So we're taking a lot of precautions to make sure we stay safe out here. The first was not eating in our tent
We're also both carrying bear spray just in case we have an encounter and we are lugging around this hunk of
Bad boy the bear canister
So we actually take this pretty much on every backpacking trip we've ever been on
But we put all of our food our toiletries anything with a scent and all of our trash in here
And then you lock it up and then you hide it far away from your tent at night
That way a bear does not attack you in your sleep
And the big thing about this is that bears should not be eating human food because then they become more used to humans
They come hang around humans and then they eventually probably will have to be killed because they become more of a threat
So the goal here is to not only keep ourselves safe, but keep the bear safe, too
Good morning, we survived the night. We didn't get attacked by a bear, but we didn't sleep that great
But thankfully we have some coffee and our last backpacking trip to Caprock Canyons
We tried out an AeroPress for backpacking and we're always trying to try new things with coffee when we're backpacking
But this time a company called Kuju Coffee sent us their single serve pour overs for backpacking
You basically just put it on you do a pour over and then you can just throw it away when you're done
It's super easy and it says a bunch of different flavors, but I'm trying the blonde rose because that's my favorite kind of coffee
Oh
That is so smooth. That's delicious. That tastes like a pour over from like an actual coffee shop
Dang, we're living fancy out here in the woods
Alright, we're getting started on day two
Our goal today is to get some what's called Lonesome Lake and it's right by the most iconic part of this route
Which is the Cirque of the Towers
It's only about four miles to get there, but we've got to go over this pass
That's called Texas Pass and we hear it's a bit of a beast
We thought Texas Pass would be the biggest challenge of the day
But it turns out just finding our way out of Shadow Lake to get to Texas Pass has been hard
Hasn't really been a clearly marked path. We've been using all trails, but it's been kind of confusing. I think
We're almost back onto the main trail though, but yeah, I think it added like an extra mile to our hike today
Just getting kind of turned around here
We've only been hiking a little over an hour today. And so far the views in this stretch are the best
We've seen on this entire hike just so many jagged peaks so many lakes. It is gorgeous, but
We are approaching
the infamous Texas Pass
Okay, so we've been walking around here
Trying to figure out which exactly is Texas Pass and our fears are confirmed
It's that big rock
Scree up there into that
Channel or U right there
Yikes. Oh my god. I was really hoping that wasn't it. That looks so brutal.
I knew Texas Pass was going to be hard, but this looks way more intense than I thought it was going to be
This would be hard without packs on, but it's even harder because we're carrying probably
25 to 30 pounds on our backs
This is pretty dang steep
We did it. That was really hard
That was really dang hard
On our drive out to the trailhead. We finished Colin O'Brady's book The Impossible first
It's very windy if you can't tell and this guy pulled a sled by himself
Unassisted unsupported across Antarctica if he can do that we can climb up Texas Pass
That's what we kept telling ourselves
But we did it. Now we just have to go down the other side which will be really really steep, too
It is gnarly
So thankful also that there's very very little
Wildfire smoke around there's a little bit of a haze
But this is about as good as you can ask for. If you saw our last video where we were at the Green River Lakes
It was very smoky. You could hardly see the square top mountain
So we're so thankful that we've just got this incredible view. We can see everything out here. It's
Can't wipe the smile off my face
We made it to Lonesome Lake. It took us a little over three and a half hours and a little bit over four miles
But we're here
It was a brutal four miles and now we just need to find somewhere to set up camp for the night
The rule is that you cannot camp within a quarter mile of the lake
We're not really sure where you camp around here
So we're just gonna kind of go scope it out and see where we can find other people camping and hopefully find a decent spot
with a view
We finally found a place to set up camp
We were walking all over this place up and down all the all over the place. We were getting cranky
Yeah, so I finally saw these two guys by the waterfall and I was like forget it
I'm just gonna go ask them see if they know of any spots and they pointed us to this spot
It's a little small, but if it's just in there just perfectly it's super private, too
So we have trees around us rocks around us and then just steps from the tent
We have an unobstructed view of the Cirque of the Towers, which is the whole reason we did this hike
It's the main attraction and basically what the Cirque of the Towers is is this half circle of 15
12,000 foot peaks that we've just been admiring like oh my gosh. Oh my gosh
They are so crazy. Last night's spot was incredible too, but this one is also. Beats it. Yeah, I think it does beat it
One of the number one things I wanted to do on this hike
Get in the water
I'm gonna go get under that waterfall
It's so refreshing but so dang cold
As you can see I have my bathing suit on but he's not convincing me that I want to go in
What a day it may not have been the longest mileage day ever it was like four or five miles
But it totally kicked our butts. We are so exhausted every single part of my body is so sore
We've mostly just been laying around just hanging out resting this afternoon
We're eating dinner now with an amazing view of the Cirque of the Towers and we're probably gonna go to bed soon because
Tomorrow is our last day on the trail, but it's gonna be a long one and with how sore we are right now
I'm kind of dreading it
breakfast of champions
It's our last day in the winds we are really sad to leave this gorgeous place
I think we have about 10 miles to get back to the van should be mostly downhill to get there
But first off we've got to go over what's called Jackass Pass, which from the looks of it. It's gonna live up to its name
Be fun to think that's Texas Pass right in there. We came all the way down that
around the lake
Through this valley here
camped here
By this waterfall right behind the waterfall made it to the top of Jackass Pass. Definitely not as hard as Texas Pass
It was an uphill battle lots of heavy breathing, but not too bad at all
And now it should be mostly downhill the rest of the way the van the Wind River Range and especially this area here is giving
Us major dolomite vibes. It's just taking us back to
Northern Italy love it so much there and we love it so much here, too
So the all trails map says to go right around Arrowhead Lake, but we had read the left was easier
You do have to go uphill more but on the right side. It's very
Bouldery and just like lots of loose rocks. So we heard this was easier even though it's more uphill
But after this but after this it should be mostly downhill. I keep saying that but I think it'll be true soon
We're taking a quick snack break at Big Sandy Lake, which is right here for reference
We started right here this morning and so far
We've done all of this. We just have this stretch left until we're back at the van
After leaving Big Sandy Lake the trail goes from being more open with mountain views to more forested
And we think it'll be like this the rest of the way and similar to the beginning of the trail
We had heard that there's some downed trees on this part of the trail, too
But we also read a recent report saying they were mostly cleared. So we haven't seen anything yet
Maybe we maybe we did pass it. We did see some downed trees, but maybe it's up ahead
We're not really sure but we are glad we went clockwise and got that gnarly section of downed trees out of the way at the
Beginning because after 20 something miles if we had to climb over those trees, we would have been so angry
But this part of the trails been super easy really smooth and flat and we're kind of just booking it back to the van
Oh, man, we did it. We made it back to the van
27 and a half miles later hands down our favorite backpacking trip ever
It was so much fun. So beautiful from start to finish, but we are so happy to be back
We had some challenges with the rain the first night and the mosquitoes and it was physically challenging
Mentally challenging at times, but it is some of the most jaw-dropping scenery we have ever seen
We could go on and on about how much we loved it, but it was just incredible
But now it is time for some real fresh food
We headed just down the road from the trailhead to Big Sandy Lodge, which is this really cool old lodge right on Mud Lake
It's been around since 1930 and was originally a fish camp for Phineas Mitchell who was a mountaineer in the area
It's gone through different owners since then
But now it has 10 one-room log cabins and most importantly and the whole reason why we're here they serve burgers from 11 to 8 p.m
11 a.m. To 8 p.m. Thursdays through Mondays
We've been so excited for this burger for three days now ever since we stepped foot on the trail
We are so hungry and excited. So I got the hungry hiker, which that's what I am
So this is a regular burger, which is actually it's 8 ounces half pound and it's actually a grass-fed local beef
And so it's got cheese and bacon added to it lettuce tomato pickle and onion
Beautiful toasted bun and then on the side you can get a variety of chips
Options or coleslaw and I got the bear mace burger, which is a burger patty has Swiss cheese cream cheese
buffalo sauce says homemade buffalo sauce and then the usual pickle lettuce all that and I decided to go big and get the bun because
I am so dang hungry and sour cream and onion chips, which are my favorite kind of chips
This bun looks so good. Oh my gosh, it's so oozing with buffalo sauce
We don't have any napkins
That is an amazing burger. Not just because we're
Like two hours from town. This is a delicious burger regardless. Oh, you can tell it's so high quality
It's so messy. Oh
The buffalo sauce has a nice kick to it, but it's not too spicy and the cheese is so creamy
Oh, yeah, that's buns. So good. Oh, oh
So juicy this burger is ridiculous. You can see it's not overdone. It has amazing grill flavor
I can see I'm grilling them over there. The bun is like perfectly toasted
It's a potato roll. I think and the bacon is like super thick and super crispy cheese bacon
lettuce all the veggies meat
My favorite my favorite combo seriously so good even if we were like in town, yeah, no, it's it's very good
Not just because we just like 27 miles
If you were hiking from the big sandy trailhead, you have to come eat here after your hike
Maybe even before if they're open come both. We kind of wish we would have come here before we hike to
We actually moved our hike by a day because we were supposed to finish yesterday on a Wednesday
But they weren't going to be open. So we moved our hike so we could come eat here
Totally worth it. I
This is so freaking so freaking good
That's a wrap on our Wind River Range backpacking trip
We're gonna link a bunch of resources in the description below including our backpacking packing list
So you can see everything that we take on our backpacking trips
We'll link the route that we took on all trails
So it'll show you the current conditions and then we're eventually going to write a guy that'll tell you everything you need to know
For the trip that we took
But for now, it is time for a shower because we are
stinky
We're going to be backpacking the Cirque of the Tower to Fremont Loop Trail here in the Wind River
Did I say the wind will
Range dang it. It's really easy to say wind wivel Wayne
Say a wind river range three times
And for dessert we have
Do you like my new look it's wind river range fashion, it's called a mosquito
Mosquito mosquito is mosquito. It's fancy. That's a fancy hat