Updated | Women Trouser | How to draft women's trouser with dart, zipper fly and belt/waistband

We are going to be drafting a perfect woman's trousers and we are going to be adding a waist dart to this pattern as well Also we are going to be creating a zipper fly in case you want to Add a zipper to your trousers and I will also show you how to add a waistband or belt to your rouser so the first thing we need to do is to take an accurate trouser measurement which I have a Watch the video on how to do this on the channel do check it out if you're new to my channel you're welcome On this channel I upload sewing tutorials and pattern drafting every week consider subscribing And don't forget to turn on the notification bell so that you'll be notified as soon as I upload a new video So guys let's get started So the measurement you will be needing now It will be your outseam or your trouser length you will need your inseam measurement and your waist measurement and in this case this will be your low waist measurement or wherever you are placing it Your trouser size requires your hip measurement your thigh circumference your knee measurement your ankle measurement so these are the measurements you will need so once you've taken your Measure accurately the next thing you want to draw out is the waistline and this will be our starting point so wherever you are placing your trousers that will be your starting point This is the low waist in my home case so from that low waist now you're going to be measuring your rouser length and I have 39 inches here as you can see and this would be our trouser leng or the outer seam so at the end of this 39 inches you're going to be drawing out a horizontal line Just like I've done here this will be your ankle or your calf so once you've done this Then you go back to your low waist which is our starting point and we are going to be measuring The hip line is usually around eight to nine inches so you just need to mark it Then I'm just going to square the horizontal line The next thing now is to mark your Crotch line so to mark your crotch line we're going to be using the outer seam and the inner seam The method is that the out seam will be 39 so you will subtract the in seam from the out seam So I will be taking away that so I have 39 minus 29 and that will give me 10 inches which means 10 Inches is my crotch line for rise so I will just mark 10 inches from the starting po and this will be the crotch line and just to confirm the inseam length you measure from e crotch line to the ankle so here I have 29 inches so you take away the inseam which is 29 Inches in my own case from the total trouser length and that will give your perfect crotch line so once you've done this you find the middle point of this inseam that is from The crotch line to the ankle in this case I have 29 so I will have 14 and a half from that The middle point now you will go up by one or two inches that depends on how tall you are Taller people can go up by two up to two inches so I will just go up by one inch in my In my case I will just square this line and this will be the new line so once you draw it Out another line that you can draw out is the tie line but this is optional so you You can choose not to draw it out but I will draw it out in this tutorial The tie is usually around three inches below the crotch line so I will just mark that three inches Now we square out the line which is the tie line This is the tie line so now we have all the horizontal and the main vertical line in place So the next thing we want to do now is to start entering our measurements Starting with the hip measurement so in my own case I have a hip measurement of 40 so the first thing You will need to do now is add two inches which is the ease allowance the two inches is ease Allowance so you add it to your hip and I will add 42 inches so this 42 inches now you will be Dividing this by four I will have 10.5 inches so on this hip line I'm just going to mark 10.5 inches so note that we've added the ease allowance to our hip line so I'll just mark it And I will also mark it at the waist with that same 10.5 you mark it at your waist you mark it On your hip line and you mark it on your crotch line so once you've marked that you square it off e vertical line so the next thing we want to do is move on to our waist so the waist I'm working With a waist measurement of 32 inches you're going to divide your waist measurement by four so you first of all divide it before you add any ease or that allowance to your waist so 32 divided by four is eight inches so I will come to this edge at this line so from There you will mark your measurement and then I will need to add my one inch allowance to it Like this then I will also add a 0.25 ease allowance to the waist so just like this So once you've marked all this addition then you connect this to your hip line in order to create e hip curve so once you've created the hip curve then we want to work on the crotch now So you come to your crotch line so whatever you have on your hip line which is 10.5 inches remember so I'll just mark that again this is 10.5 inches whatever you have so I'll just write crotch line here so whatever you have there you will divide that by four and in this case I will ave 2.6 inches so whatever you get you come to this edge and then you mark it from that towards This side so I will just mark 2.6 just like this The next thing we want to do now is to create e crotch curve and to create the crotch curve perfectly you will need to add from your hip line You measure up an inch like this and then at this point you will mark 1.5 inches diagonally Just like I've placed the tape measure and then we're going to connect this to this point to this point on the hip and then you connect it down to your waistline so perfectly like this So the next thing we want to do now is to shape the trousers to give them a nice shape To do that You come back to your crotch line and find the middle point of this crotch line so I have 13 Inches yeah so this is the middle point of 13 inches which is six and a half that means six and A half yeah six and a half so you're going to mark that middle point all the way down to the ankle and then to the waist so I will just mark 6.5 on all this line so and this line now is going to be e grain line so this is our grain line or the center line for the trousers so once you draw it ou This line then we're going to be inputting the thigh measurement on the thigh line the new measurement on the new line and the ankle measurement on the ankle line for all these Measurements now we are going to divide it into two because when you measure you measure Just one leg so you'll be dividing it into two so dividing my tie of 23 into two I will have 11.5 Inches so I will just find the middle point of 11.5 inches which will be 5.75 Mark 5.75 here like this I will move on to the new line you divide your new measurement by two Here I have 7.5 so you find the middle point of 7.5 and I will also mark it here and then to your ankle line you divide your ankle into two I have 5.5 inches so that 5.5 inches you Find the midpoint so once you've marked all this line the next thing we want to do now is to Connect it from the crotch to the thigh to the new part and to the ankle then on this side you're going To connect it from the hip line to the thigh to the new part and to the calf so you can see the way I'm placing my ruler so this is how you connect it from your hip line not from the crotch line So from the hip line connect it straight down to the thigh just like this to the new line and then a straight line to the calf so I'm using the ruler to do that so this is what the front looks like It will look like this and we are going to make a notch on the new line on both sides for this reason why we need to make this notch is that when you are joining the front and the back together This notch on the new line will be your guide so you place that notch on both sides so this It will look like this the next thing we want to do on the front pattern now is to create our waist dart so to create the waist dart it's as simple as this you know this grain line now tha Your dart line will be here and then you're just going to mark four inches down from this line We mark four inches down for the front dart and then you're going to be measuring one inch Dart intake so I'll just mark one inch that will be half an inch on both sides and then we're going to connect it to create our Darts are as simple as this so this is how the front pattern will look Before we cut it out and before we create the back we're going to be adding our seam allowance around this pattern So to add the seam allowance to the pattern we are going to be adding at least two inches to the ankle that will be the seam allowance for the ankle so I will just add two and a half Inches you can have two inches but make sure that it is not less than two inches so I'll jus Mark two and a half inches so once you've marked your seam allowance here you're going to be extending the cuff line so while extending the cuff line you're not going to extend it in a Straight line so you just place it you can see how slightly I place this ruler so that is how and this is how it will look like because by the time you fold it if you Write it down clearly because by the time you fold it it won't be enough for you so you need to write it down Lower it just slightly like this and then once you've done this we're going to be adding half an inch seam allowance around the pattern so I've added the seam allowance around the pattern as you ca See it and now I'll be cutting this out so now we want to draw the back pattern so to draw the Back pattern you need to place your front on it just like I've done here and note that any measurements we are going to be taking we are going to be taking them directly from the front Pattern not from the seam allowance so if I want to measure now I will measure from here from this line like this not from the seam allowance So we are going to be starting from the crotch line So at the crotch line of the front you will need to mark two inches so note that I'm marking from This line is not from the seam allowance so you mark your two inches from here so this is two inches and from that two inches that I've just marked from here now I will just go down by half an inc So this is my new crotch line for the back so this is what you will mark but from this line you can extend the line if you wish so you can extend this line and from that line you mark half An inch so once you've marked half an inch then we are going to move up to the waist line So at the waist line you find the middle point of this line so I will just place it I have four I have four inches here this grain line and this line I will just mark the middle point which is here So from that middle point whatever you have for your crotch which is from here to From this point on your front pattern in my old case I have 2.6 inches then you will mark it from this Line so I'll just mark 2.6 inches up like this I hope you understand Once you've marked this 2.6 Inches up then from this line we want to create the crotch curve for the back and that will be e guide for us so from this point you know for the front we mark 1.5 inches so for the back you It will mark two inches and two inches will be exactly on this our seam allowance so that will be here and then we're going to be connecting this point now to this new crotch line for the bac Just like that and then we're going to connect this up to this point down like this to connect Roll it out like that so this is how the crotch curve looks The back will look like this once you have done that then we're going to draft out the waist For the back so to draft out the waist for the back whatever you have here on your waist line You mark it so here I have 9.25 and remember that we've added the ease allowance to it I'll jus Extend this waist line like this so that it is 9.25 inches I will mark it from here down to this The waist line is created in order to form the waist line for the back then you connect it together So once you've created the waistline for the back then we need to shape the back pattern as well So you come to your new line you mark one inch so remember we are marking from this line So mark one inch you mark it on the ankle line as well One inch you will need to mark one inch also At this other side and then at the tie I will mark one inch as well so next is to connect this point To this one inch down to the ankle and also at this side you connect the crotch to the new line and then to the ankle so once you've done that we can now take off the front pattern so this is what we have for the back and then I will just draw the new line remember tha We are going to notch our new line so you place a notch when we are cutting on the fabric at the new line then I will also join this ankle line so join the ankle line and the crotch line then we want to create the dart for the back to create the waist dart for The back you're going to mark whatever you have from your gray line to this line on the front so and I have four inches so that four inches you will need to mark it from here down here So I will just mark that like this and then you will need to mark your waist dart length so the dart length for the back will be five inches then we are going to be connecting this po And also note that this line is not straight so you are not going to be placing your dart straight like this so the line for the dart must be parallel to this line so you can see the way I'm drawing the dart so you place your ruler like this you connect it and then you place your one inch dart intake This is how it will look like Also note that for the back pattern you can have two darts for the back pattern depending on your dart intake but for the purpose of this Tutorial this is the only one you're going to be drafting so and this is what we have for the bac So once you've done this the next thing we want to do now is to add our seam allowance around this pattern so I'll just mark up an inch around so now that we are done with the back pattern I will Just cut it out then we create the zipper flyer So the next thing we want to do now is to create The flyer for the front pattern so you only need this flyer if you want to add a zipper to your trousers To draft this is very very simple The standard measurement for this is seven and a Seven and a half inches long so I'll just mark seven and a half inches You mark it from the starting point of your tape measure and then one and a half inches for the width so like this then let's Square this line out so once you've squared this you mark two inches from the bottom and from these two inches now you're going to create a kind of curve towards this point Like this and then we're going to add our half-inch seam allowance around it and this is what it looks like We're going to have for the zipper flyer another thing we want to create now is the shield so the The shield will be on the right side of the trousers while this zipper flyer will be on the left side of the trousers so that the measurement is eight and a half inches long So I've marked eight and a half inches long then two and a half inches for the width so that is the standard measurement so we have two and a half inches and eight and a half inches long And also we need to add our seam allowance around it which is a half-inch seam allowance So this is the shield and this is the zipper flyer so the next thing we want to draft out now To complete our trouser pattern is the belt or the waistband and we're going to be cutting them out A straight one so to cut out the belt all you need to do is input your waist measurement the waist circumference so and my waist circumference is 32 inches so I will jus Mark 32 inches so you mark 32 inches like this so this is 32 inches which is my waist Add half an inch which is the ease allowance to the circumference Remember that We added ease allowance to our pattern and added 0.25 we are going to add a two-inch extension For the belt so that two inches we make it to overlap at the front so you add that two inches o it so this is the length of the belt and then we are going to mark out the width and the wid It is usually two inches so I will just mark two inches here two inches then we are going to notch Place it on the fabric so you place the notch on it and you're also going to be dividing everything You now know we've added an ease allowance to it making it 32.5 inches in my case So you're going to divide that into two and I'm going to have 16.25 so you mark Then I will just connect that and this will be our center back so this will be the center back And note that this will come together with this to form the front so you mark this you will notch It also looks like this on the fabric once we've done this then we're going to be adding our half a An inch seam allowance around it and when we want to cut out we're going to be cutting out two pieces One main fabric and a facing so I'll just mark my half-inch seam allowance around So guys now we've completed drafting our trouser pattern and you can see how lovely it is We have our belts in place we have the flyer the shield the waist darts all in place in the next tutorial I'll be showing you how to sew your trousers perfectly and the easiest way to Attach your zip to the trouser if you find this video helpful don't forget to give it a thumbs up And if you haven't subscribed to my channel yet please do so and don't forget to turn on the notification bell so that you'll be notified when I upload a new video Thank you guys for Watching and I will see you in the sewing tutorial bye