South Georgia - Penguin Paradise of the South Atlantic - Free Documentary Nature

Not far from Antarctica, a vast mountainous island looms. Exposed to the storms of the Southern Ocean, inhospitable and hostile, but still an annual destination for millions of penguins. For their chicks, the first summer is crucial and perilous enough, while winter presents the greatest challenge of their lives. Year after year, they return to South Georgia the city of penguins, one of the largest animal gatherings on Earth. Far from Europe, between the southern tips of South Africa and South America, and only 1000 kilometers north of the Antarctic, the island of South Georgia towers up out of the sea. It's the very top of an underwater mountain range as big as the Spanish island of Mallorca. September, late winter on South Georgia. Winds of up to 180 kilometers an hour, temperatures under minus 15 degrees Celsius. For months, thousands of king penguin chicks have been waiting for their parents in a vast juvenile colony. In winter, the penguins fishing grounds lie far away from the island. It won't be long before the youngsters last fat reserves are used up. If the parents don't get back in time, the little ones will starve. The first breeding birds have already gathered on an old whaling ship. South Georgia shags live here the whole year round. They build their nests in ice and snow, breeding early in the year, so the offspring are fully fledged by next winter. In contrast to the shags, king penguins take a very long time to reach adulthood. They only start fishing at one and a half years old. For now, they go to kindergarten. Without supervision, however. At the end of winter, the first elephant seals are appearing at the coast. There's still enough living space, but that's going to change pretty soon. A good spot on the beach guarantees female attention. Whoever already has one defends it ferociously. In these contests, over seven tons meet each other head to head. As many as 60 females make up a harem. The bull assertively puts the newcomer to flight. When the elephant seals occupy the beaches, it's also time for the penguins to get back to their young. Even the bigger chicks are reaching the end of their strength. Not all of them survive the long winter. A skewer mingles among the exhausted youngsters. For him, there's plenty of food around these days. The chicks try to keep the predator at bay. Only their parents' return can save the young birds from starvation. Now, finally, the time has come. The deserted winter beaches are stormed by summer guests. In the coming months, two million king penguins will crowd the island. They head straight for their offspring without delay. One couple find each other again on the beach after months at sea. Greetings are kept short. They still have quite a journey ahead. Rush hour in a snowstorm. Their bellies are full of fish. Finally, the penguin parents reach the colony of kids. Parents and youngsters recognise each other in the crowd by their calls, even after months apart. The long wait was worth it. From now on, parents provide a steady food delivery service well into summer. Only then will their offspring fish in the ocean themselves. Others are less fortunate. The couple from the beach have been searching for hours to find their chick, but their calls remain unanswered. The voice of their youngster has been silenced forever. A small consolation remains for the parents. They can start breeding earlier now and so prepare the new offspring better for the following winter. In October, the days are getting longer and the sun stronger. Snow and ice retreat back to the mountain summits up to 3000 metres high. Around half of the island lies permanently under ice and snow. There are more than 160 glaciers here. Many of them slide down as far as the sea. The overland journey of the ice ends here after thousands of years on the move. Now on, it will drift along in the southern ocean in the form of ice flows. Last summer's chicks are now enjoying the spring sunshine and the all-inclusive service package delivered by their parents. They're well fed and already plucking the baby down feathers from their plumage. Not only the youngest ones are shedding feathers. Before the penguins can breed again, they have to molt for several weeks. The estuary of an icy glacial river provides a perfect spot. King penguins change their plumage every year. Old feathers are no good for insulation anymore and are shed one by one. Penguin metabolisms are working flat out now and body temperatures are rising. The birds need to cool down. The young penguin couple occupies a desirable patch of cold water. The penguins' coats are itching all over now. While the penguins wait for their new plumage, even more summer visitors arrive at the island. Gentoo penguins are fast swimmers, but only reach the South Georgian coast in November. Plots with direct access to the sea are already taken. Thankfully, Gentoo penguins prefer green spaces with scenic views higher up in the mountains. They make their way up a steep path through a veritable jungle of tussock grass. The strenuous ascent is rewarded with a majestic view. Up here, they'll raise a new generation of Gentoo penguins. Macaroni penguins also arrive in droves. More than five million of them flock to the island. Their territory is along the rocky shoreline of South Georgia. These gold-crested birds are smaller than the Gentoo and King penguins, but they're extremely tough. As keen climbers, they're not at all bothered by the minimalist state of their summer residence. They favor the barren rocky areas. After all, the plentiful fishing grounds are right on their doorstep. Back on the beaches, the molting of the King penguins is over. The huge crowds gradually disperse, leaving behind a sea of feathers. The young couple has also got a brand new outfit. They retreat to the safety of the colony. Who would dare to lay an egg with these neighbors around? It's a good one and a half kilometers to walk from the coast to Penguin City, a long way for short legs. From a vantage point, they get a first impression of the lie of the land. As in all big cities, location is everything. Successful breeding can depend on it. But it's very early season. The property market is still quiet. The couple have quickly found a suitable plot. A brief glance at the colony shows that public displays of love are no easy matter. There's always someone interfering. The exchange of affections leads to a skillful balancing act. In just a few days, the female will lay her single precious egg. In contrast to the emperor penguins of the Antarctic mainland, whose fathers incubate the eggs in winter alone, King penguins take turns each. It all looks so well established and untouched. But the incomparable animal world of South Georgia has a tragic history. It began in the 19th century with seal hunting and came to a climax with industrial whaling. The island whaling stations were in operation for about 60 years. Today, only ruins and wreckage remind us of a time in which the sea ran red with the blood of thousands of whales. In the early 20th century, margarine, soap and nitroglycerine for weapons were produced from whale oil. The discovery of a vast whale population led to a true gold rush. Grease from whale blubber was the basis of the Industrial Revolution and became very expensive. Whalers lived and worked in six stations here, processing 175,000 whales in 60 years. They erected buildings on penguin breeding grounds, bringing with them domestic animals and rats. The workers made omelettes from penguin eggs and showed little respect for nature. Only in 1965 did the whalers leave South Georgia for good. And the animals could once again reign supreme on the island. Millions of Antarctic fur seals were doomed due to their warm coats. Only a tiny colony survived the relentless human slaughter. More than three million of them live on South Georgia today, the world's largest community of marine mammals. Sheltered coves and wrecks are their kindergarten, while the females are off hunting. In summer, huge shoals of fish and crabs drift past near the coast, forming the basic food resource of the spectacular animal colonies of South Georgia. The times of seal hunting are thankfully over. A light-colored fur seal is something special. Only around one in a thousand is born blonde. While the seals spend their time relaxing and playing around, breeding season is about to begin for the penguins. Adolescent chicks from last year are waiting in the colony for food. And those who don't have offspring to worry about yet are laying their eggs. The female whose chick didn't survive the winter presents her partner with the freshly laid egg. They'll take turns incubating it over the next 55 days. One of them will always be balancing the coveted egg on top of their feet. But the breeding business doesn't always run smoothly. A skewer takes up position. Some couples look as if they're only practicing. A broken egg serves as a test dummy. This character seems to be having some trouble. Finally, he gives up. His partner isn't back yet, but hunger has taken over. This is exactly what the skewer has been waiting for. The air defense division holds the attacker at bay. But while all attention is focused upwards, a sheath bill can creep in unnoticed. Sheath bills are opportunists and are always at the ready whenever a chance arises. In summer, the king penguin's breeding grounds look more like mega cities. Over 200,000 couples are squeezed into the smallest space in this colony alone. Gen 2 penguins avoid all the bustle and are happiest in their mountain villages. Unlike the king penguins, each of them builds their own convenient homestead. Apart from the odd disagreement, it could be a peaceful idyll. If it wasn't for the skewers. The nest looks like a small fortress, but the predators come in pairs. His partner's still far away. The male penguin tries desperately to contain his attackers. Rescue is on its way. With no messing around, the female roundly chases off the skewers. For now, the danger has passed and the penguins celebrate their success with exuberant cries. Like the king penguins, the smaller Gen 2s also take turns during incubation. Well satisfied from her fishing trip, the partner settles in. The nest suffered slightly in the skewers attack. And so her husband briefly smartens things up again before heading off on his own fishing trip. Weeks have passed since the king penguins deposited their eggs. After every fishing expedition, they have to pass some nosy seals. But this time, there's a surprise in store. To get to his family, the new penguin father has to cross the entire colony. The hatching of the little prince might take hours. He follows the trail tenaciously through the colony, a true running of the gauntlet, riddled with sharp beaks. Exhausted by the hatching, the brand new member of the community gets his first food from his mother. And finally, here's dad. The welcoming calls are especially loud today. For the next few months, these recognition signals between the chick and its parents are vital for survival. Out of sight of the skewers, she hands the chick carefully over to her partner. Now, its welfare is daddy's responsibility. The mother heads off immediately. Food is required as quickly as possible. For the next 14 months, there's a hungry youngster to feed. Water is the true element of the king penguins. Into the waves and all clumsiness is left behind. Passing the playful seals, they hurry out to sea. Rich in nutrients, the circumpolar current flows around South Georgia. In summer, swarms of krill form the staple food source for many sea creatures. The icy southern ocean is the habitat of sea spiders and brittle stars, sea urchins and the cold loving crocodile ice fish. Further out, king penguins hunt lanternfish. An arch enemy also lurks around here. King penguins don't stand a chance against the four meter long leopard seal. Only if the penguins discover the nimble predator in time, can they escape. Leopard seals are not picky. If penguin hunting is not working out, they'll go after other species of seal or else make do with krill. The path is clear to the rich fishing grounds. These giants pose no danger. Like a flag in the wind, their spouts direct the penguins to the swarms of krill and small fish. Wherever humpback whales are feeding, there's also plenty for others. Groups of these giant marine mammals have been appearing again only recently around South Georgia. Around 50 years after the end of their slaughter through whaling. Species diversity in the island is now strictly protected and is monitored and explored at a research station. At King Edward Point, humans live in close contact with the animals. No more than 20 scientists and government officials live here in summer, managing the island under the British flag. They monitor the fishery and develop strategies against the reintroduction of rats and diseases. Here at the edge of the earth, only the occasional passing ship helps to maintain contact with the outside world. If you want to post something, you need a lot of patience. Important data on the polar food chain is gathered in these labs and used to develop and issue ideal fishing quotas. On evenings like this, the sheltered cove of King Edward Point is one of the most beautiful workplaces on the planet. In January, the middle of the Antarctic summer, nights on the island are extremely short. The sun has already risen by 4 a.m. these days. In Penguin City, last year's chicks are shedding their plumage and becoming real adolescents. The downy baby feathers are gradually disappearing, while the waterproof adult plumage starts to take over. It's a stage between childhood and adulthood, which marks the second summer of their young lives. The days are filled with preening and posing. Hormone boosts lead to mood swings. These long wings, no good for flying, are pretty baffling. Perhaps the young birds really do dream about being able to fly. The Antarctic summer warms up the island. Temperatures reach up to 20 degrees Celsius. Too much sun makes you sluggish. Underneath their dense fat, the elephant seals are getting hot. There's an almost Mediterranean feel to the beaches. Even the skewer is tempted to take a short dip. The cold-loving king penguins have the colony's very own glacier to thank for the ice-cooled water. Only those with childcare duties are not allowed to enjoy the water right now. Just two weeks old, the small chick explores his environment. Careful grooming is one of the most important occupations in Penguin City. Scratching your head is a true art form. Some of the neighbours look pretty weird. And where do those white spots come from? There's a lot to see in the penguin colony, so the time between meals flies past. In late summer, the old whaling stations accommodate some special guests. Male elephant seals seek shelter from the wind and weather in exactly the same halls their ancestors were slaughtered in. Their annual change of coat is due. The term catastrophic molt perfectly describes the seals' mood right now. Hell for some is paradise for others, however. Sheath bills clamber over the backs of the foul-tempered seals. And the birds don't seem at all worried about the size of their grumpy hosts. They shamelessly target the open wounds of their victims before pouncing. But at some point, even an elephant seal runs out of patience. In late summer, both penguin parents have to search for food in order to satisfy the growing appetite of their offspring. For the first time in its life, the chick is alone and exposed to the sharp beaks of the neighbours. Penguin cities are hard patch. Every square metre is defended, even against innocent intruders. Some chicks try to shelter with would-be nannies, but even that is short-lived. Fellow victims are the only ones who don't start pecking. Best to stick together. Born of necessity, small kindergarten groups gather all over the place. But the adults don't leave their youngsters alone for long. One of them bustles along already. You can't beat mum and dad to keep the annoying neighbours in their place. Back on the beach, the first teenage chicks from last year have joined the adults. In autumn, they'll have to head out to sea for the first time to hunt alone. Neither swimming lessons nor advice is offered. Practice makes perfect, is the motto. Some have way too little fat in their bones. They'll struggle in the icy water. The waves are formidable. That's enough for a start. A good decision. Diving in blindly can end in tragedy. Unfortunate beginners make a perfect meal for southern giant petrels. For over a year, the king penguin has given his all, only to lose his little one to the sea. The southern giant petrels have an important task, however. They eat dead penguins, afterbirth and even dead seals, ensuring that no disease spreads in the colony. South Georgia can brew up some wild weather. In autumn, storms become more frequent. Unbridled, the wind sweeps the Antarctic continent and blasts the island with full force. It won't be long before the macaroni penguins leave South Georgia. Many king penguins are already setting out to sea in pursuit of the migrating shoals of fish. Soon, the storm will subside. Even so, winter won't be held off for long. The vast penguin colony is changing. Many of the adults have already left. Thanks to double food rations, the now four-month-old chick has really grown. The depleted supplies will still last a long time. He can face winter without his parents confidently. In the year 1775, when James Cook commandeered South Georgia in the name of King George, the island lay in thick fog. Cook had no idea what destructive influence his travel report would have on the vast animal life of the island. Only now, almost 250 years later, is South Georgia once again the wild paradise that her discoverers first encountered, a paradise that no one happily leaves. Yet the swarms of fish are on the move, and the penguin couple have to chase them over thousands of kilometers. The chick is safely in kindergarten, well-fed and surrounded by his young friends. He'll only follow his parents out to sea next year. For last year's chicks, the first big journey starts now. They'll spend three years on the ocean and then return to South Georgia, the city of the king penguins.