From Suit To Shoot | Episode 3: Bespoke Suit Construction With Henry Poole

Previously in this series, I visited with Savile Row bespoke tailor Henry Poole to commission my very first proper shooting suit for a game shoot in Scotland to which I've been invited. After selecting the fabric, a magnificent tweed from Lovett Mill, my measurements were taken, the suit was styled, and then Henry Poole Managing Director Simon Cundy traveled up to Scotland himself to visit the mill and personally collect the fabric. With Simon now back in London, it is time to draft the pattern, cut the cloth, and begin construction of this beautiful suit. I'm Kirby Allison, and for years now I've been exploring the world of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition. I've been invited on my very first game shoot up on an estate in Scotland, and I want to make sure that I do it properly. The proper outfit, the proper guns, the proper etiquette. But in today's world, does all of this still exist? And if so, why? The very first step in the creation of any proper bespoke garment is the drafting of the pattern. This is the genesis of the whole bespoke process, that step in which a bespoke cutter takes the client's measurements and drafts a one-of-a-kind pattern from which the cloth will be cut and the garment constructed. Here, Henry Poole head cutter Alex Cook is beginning to draft my pattern literally from scratch on a blank sheet of paper. Of course, no two bespoke clients are ever the same, and one of the beautiful things about the bespoke process is the fact that the final garment is uniquely designed specifically for you. To your measurements, to your unique physical characteristics, and to your own individual taste. Over 37 measurements were taken during the initial consultation, and this process, which will use all of them, can take upwards of a day to complete. A client's pattern is a living blueprint that stays with the customer for as long as he remains with his tailor. The pattern is constantly reviewed and improved, both throughout the fitting process and throughout the commissioning of any future garments. This ensures that one's bespoke suits are consistent between commissions, and that over time, they may perhaps become even more refined. To see one's bespoke pattern drafted and taking shape seemingly from nothing is truly inspiring. After the bespoke pattern has been drafted, it is then passed to the striker to be chalked onto the fabric. This process consists of more than simply tracing the pattern onto the fabric itself. Here, the design of the fabric, in my case the blue windowpane, must be taken into consideration as the pattern is laid out to ensure that it perfectly aligns across the various elements of the suit. This visual cohesiveness is yet another mark of distinction that singles out a true bespoke garment. The process of chalking the pattern onto the fabric is carried out in exactly the same way today as it has been done for centuries. It is just one of the many examples of rich tradition that always present in the skilled practice in bespoke tailoring. For the five-piece shooting suit that I've commissioned, over six meters of fabric will be required. The work of the striker does not simply end at the chalking of the pattern onto the fabric. He must then carefully cut out each individual piece so that they can be sent downstairs to the makers. The striker's experience is essential. His intimate knowledge of, and perhaps even more importantly, his feel for the cloth will allow him to anticipate exactly how the fabric will respond while being cut, ensuring that it is done perfectly. Well-struck cloth is essential in preparing the suit for the tailors to assemble. As a testament to the significance of this tradition, a striker's special tailoring shears are often passed down from tailor to tailor over the generations and are considered sacred. Another exceptional aspect of pure bespoke from a Savile Row bespoke tailoring firm such as Henry Poole is that the garment is entirely created on-premises. The pattern is drafted and the fabric cut out on the ground floor, and then the unassembled pieces are bundled together and sent directly downstairs for construction, allowing for total control over the process from start to finish. The bespoke process includes at least three fittings that will occur at various stages of the garment's construction. During these fittings, the garment is tried on by the client and carefully assessed by the cutter. These fittings are indispensable components of the total bespoke process and part of what gives the final garment its absolute integrity. The first fitting is called a basted fitting, and this is where the various components of the pattern are simply basted or loosely sewn together. They say that the first fitting is for the tailor and not the customer. It is when the posture of the client and how that will affect the overall balance of the garment is carefully assessed by the cutter. At this stage, it is critical that the jacket is perfectly balanced before proceeding further in the process of construction. Here, the outline of the pattern is marked with white basting threads. This is the scaffolding of the bespoke suit, something that allows it to be torn apart and reassembled throughout the multiple fittings without losing the outline of the original pattern. Next, the canvas of the garment is constructed totally from scratch out of various layers of doormat felting, stiff horsehair cloth, and canvassing. Glue, fusing, or a pre-made canvas are never used. The canvas is made and sewn together 100% by hand, and this is what allows the tailor to give shape and structure to the chest of the jacket. The canvas is to the jacket what a strong foundation is to a house. After the first fitting, the canvas is stitched into the fabric employing a special technique called pad stitching. Hundreds of small diagonal stitches are used to marry the canvas to the fabric. The shape of the lapel roll is created during this process and literally sewn into the The importance of this handwork cannot be overstated, and it is truly one of the most defining characteristics of a bespoke suit. The handwork does not exist just for the sake of itself or simply for the purposes of embellishment. It is, in fact, what gives a bespoke garment its durability and longevity, ensuring that the shape of the garment is literally built in. Regardless of how the garment is treated, a client can always trust that its shape will be retained. Part of the romance of a bespoke garment is that very little about the tradition with which the garment is constructed has changed over the past 200 years. This idea, that a bespoke garment can be made just for you, totally by hand, using techniques that have existed for centuries, is what initially led me to fall in love with the bespoke process. Here, additional shape is being worked into the chest of the garment by the coat maker using the iron. The process of ironing, or pressing, the garment is almost as important as how it is sewn together. An incredible amount of the garment's final shape is worked into the cloth using steam and a hot iron. During the process of preparing the garment for the first fitting, the coat maker will continually review the silhouette of the jacket, its shape, and its drape, as everything slowly comes together prior to the arrival of the client for his first fitting. I have to say, it's been made up. It looks even more beautiful than I would have expected. This is gorgeous. Well, this is what we call the first stage. This is the base stage of the actual shooting suit. That's exceptional. Sitting nice in there. We need to do our trickery inside there, and then they'll stay nice and shut. It's a really good first fitting. I can't wait.