Add This to Your Soil This Fall

Garden bliss
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1 Video View·Oct 6, 2026
AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI GeneratedAshley, a soil science expert, shares five essential additions to garden soil during the fall to improve soil health, structure, and pest resistance for the following spring. The guide emphasizes science-backed methods to prepare the ground, ranging from organic matter and moisture management to biological indicators for spring planting.
Today's video, we're going to go over the five things
you should absolutely add to your soil here in the fall
because it can make a big difference in the spring.
If you don't know who I am,
my name's Ashley.
I have a bachelor's of science in soil science
and I like to take that science,
apply it to all things garden.
And today's video,
these five things are things that scientific journals
and soil science tells us we should be doing in the fall
to help make for a happier, healthier soil
or a soil that is disease and pest free in the spring.
Now, number one is hands down going to be compost.
Now, compost is one thing that we often think
it needs to be incorporated, is used for nutrients.
But if you're adding in the fall,
there's some different rules to follow.
Number one, this is a great addition
for anyone who is no-till.
The reason being is that the addition of compost in the fall
actually ensures that the compost itself
makes it into that soil profile,
which changes your soil aggregation.
Now, this can be done mechanically through large,
what we consider to be large macrofauna,
worms, beetles, that sort of thing.
We also have the freeze-thaw cycle.
So the constant freeze-thaw is another way
in which this makes its way into the soil profile
and then changes that aggregation.
If we incorporate it, we don't tend to see the same results
and we also tend to,
I mean, we don't get the same benefits
that we're looking for.
So how much?
One to three centimeters is kind of the max
of what I would apply to your soil surface in the fall
to allow for that process to take place.
And this, again, is great if you are no-till.
It's not so much for nutrients
as it is for soil building or soil structure building.
Number two, absolutely, no word of a doubt,
is going to be mulching the soil surface
and a healthy amount of it.
Now, soil mulching is obviously really important
if you have things like perennials.
The reason being is it obviously acts as an insulator
against the extreme cold that we can sometimes get
in our northern climate.
Now, furthermore, it also helps to stop
against something we call heaving.
If you've ever freshly planted a perennial
and notice that the entire root ball
seems to get heaved out of the ground,
this is a great sign that you didn't have enough mulch
to actually protect against the freeze-thaw cycle
that forces that root ball outwards
because the root ball isn't quite yet integrated
into that entire soil system.
This is something we risk with perennials
for that first one to two years,
and mulch can help alleviate that.
Now, you don't have to go out and buy straw mulch,
but you can just grab leaves, grass,
anything of that nature, and pile it on top.
You really can't go overboard with this
in any stretch of the imagination,
particularly if it is a shredded, fine material.
So if you are doing leaves, for example,
shredding them is one of the best methods to go with.
I have an entire video coming out later this week
on leaves and how to use them in your garden
here in the fall.
So if you want to see that, Geek Crew,
you guys already know when I post
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There's a massive change, shift in the algorithm.
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This isn't my full-time gig.
Now, outside of the freeze thaw,
it also helps against erosion.
I think something that people think
when they think erosion is, you know,
rapidly flowing water, heavy winds,
that sort of thing,
and while those obviously erode the soil,
things like raindrops on the soil surface
can and will act as some sort of effect
on an aggregate.
It helps with compaction,
which is not a good thing,
and so the addition of this
can help prevent against that.
If you have a windy fall coming up,
you know, you have a rainy spring in your future,
these are all things that can help you
enormously kind of mitigate that
or travel that accordingly.
Now, next one is actually water.
Shockingly enough, the addition of water
can help your garden a huge bunch.
So obviously, there are deciduous trees
that lose their leaves,
and there are annual plants
that are no longer in existence after the fact,
but if you've planted fresh bulbs,
if you have evergreens,
if you have perennials,
these are great candidates
for ensuring that the plants still get some water.
I just saw the most massive tomato.
I have to go pick it now.
I've been waiting very patiently
for this to start happening.
It's been a year where the small tomatoes
really kind of took off
and did their thing early on,
but anything like of size,
like my Berkeleys in that
or some of my favorite tomatoes out there,
my German, my pink Germans,
my brownie wines, that sort of thing,
it's taken a minute,
so this is a good thing.
We're happy.
Now, the goal, if we are going to water in the fall
isn't, you know, fill every pore space 110%.
No, that's not the case.
We want to just hit the water requirements adequately.
So we want to make sure
there is some soil moisture present
and things aren't bone dry,
which bone dry can and often does happen
here in the fall.
So keep that in mind.
Perennials, evergreens,
and, you know, deciduous trees to an extent
are all things that do require regular watering,
despite the fact that it feels like
we can just turn the taps off.
And newly established or very new
berry bushes, fruit trees, fresh bulbs,
that sort of thing,
absolutely do need some water,
but don't oversaturate it
because then you're going to cause
a whole other host of issues.
Next up is actually what we call oculation.
So I sometimes reference something called solarization.
Now, solarization, technically speaking,
I'm pulling these off
because otherwise mice will eat them,
and see, it's blushing.
That's one of the rules.
Once you get this blushing,
she's time to harvest.
But oculation is something
that is identical to solarization in some extent,
but solarization, we know,
uses things like clear plastic, clear poly,
to harness the intensity of the sun
and in turn kind of burn the weed seeds out,
burn the disease out, that sort of thing.
It's much better at kind of all-encompassing
a whole host of issues.
Oculation, however, something slightly different.
I gotta go set these down.
I'm just gonna keep fiddling with them.
It's gonna be nosy, noisy.
It's not gonna be good.
I have so much to harvest, you guys.
It is not okay.
We are really procrastinating
what needs to happen in the garden.
Oh, there's another blushing potato tomato.
Oh, that is bright, bright, bright, bright,
bright, bright, bright, bright.
We love a bright red tomato.
Sorry, I got hugely sidetracked there.
But oculation is something
that I'm gonna do an entire video on.
Another reason to just hit that subscribe button
if you wanna check out what I talk about there.
But oculation is the absence of light.
So it's different than solarization
and it's something that's best served here in the fall.
I'm actually going to be doing this here out on the farm
because I'm expanding slightly for my own personal use.
Not like I'm not doing like a market farmer
or anything crazy like that,
or starting to do flower gardening.
It's just for my own funsies.
But I'm adding a greenhouse
and then I'm also going to be starting kind of like a garden
and that garden is going to have perennial plants,
but it's also going to have annual plants as well.
And in this space, I need to nuke it in some way.
Now tillage is a great way to nuke,
herbicides are a great way to nuke,
but solarization is another form of it
and oculation is another form of that,
which is the form I'm going to use
because that's the best form served in the fall.
So black covers, black silage, black garbage bags,
anything that cuts the light out is what we call oculation.
Again, hit the subscribe button
if you want to check out a video I do on that,
but we're going to keep that under wraps
until we do a video because it's quite intense
what can go on there.
So yeah, keep that in the back of your head.
Don't know why.
So my last addition is odd, very odd, and it is peas.
Now you're probably thinking,
Ashley, what are you talking about?
So pea seeds in particular are best served
literally planting all over your garden.
Every single bed should get some,
you should plant some in the middle,
you should plant some along the sides,
literally cover your beds enough.
Worst case scenario,
you don't want that many peas, you rip them out.
The best case scenario,
they begin to germinate in the spring
and they're a great indicator
for when your soil is warm enough
and when the time has begun
for you to actually transplant or plant outdoors.
Now you can have a soil temp thermometer
and you can sit there,
kind of poke the soil temp thermometer all over,
or you can wait for indicators
and indicators being the germination of peas.
So I've been doing this for years.
I've talked about this one for years.
I've done videos on just this concept.
Please check them out because like I said,
hugely popular method for ensuring
when you get in your garden
is the correct time to get into your garden.
With that being said,
this is what Google says you should watch next.
And this video is absolutely taking off on YouTube.
You have to let me know why.
I don't know if they're just promoting it
or if it's got some good information in it.
Like I said, let me know in the comments.
I will talk to you guys next time.
Bye.
