How to set a Fluval FX6 filter up for maxiumum efficiency. Fluval FX6 Filter: http://geni.us/EQDjIBP Fluval FX5 Filter (Ebay): https://ebay.to/2G2SIIz Foams and Biohome Ultimate: http://www.filterpro.co.uk Full kit to upgrade a Fluval FX6 or FX5 can be found on the 'Filter Kits' page of the FilterPro website: https://bit.ly/2LuRtl0 (FilterPro site has links to suppliers in other countries) Flexible light used in video: http://geni.us/OUJDB The Fluval FX6 is the friendly monster of the canister filter world and has a powerful pump, excellent mechanical filtration and decent provision for biological filtration. However, since it 'only' holds around 5kg of biohome ultimate it is really suited to normally stocked tanks of up to 500 litres (132 US gallons) or heavily stocked tanks of up to 250 litres (66 US gallons) if you want to achieve a full cycle. Note: If your FX6 is a new version it will have extra red trays which fit inside main trays - they are not needed unless you need to use one in bottom tray to separate carbon from filter media without using a mesh bag.
A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere. Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome ultimate does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios: (1 US gallon = 3.8 litres) (1kg = 2.2 lbs) Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
*Avoid using any water conditioner which claims to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (e.g. Seachem Prime) since that will severely limit the active population of beneficial bacteria and therefore prevent a full cycle. All you need is a simple dechlorinator (e.g. API Stress Coat) to ensure that the water is safe for life and you never need to add more bacteria when the filter is properly set up since the vast majority of bacteria will be in the filter media (and is not removed during a water change).*
You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat. Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on: [email protected] 07772848730 (Richard)
Anyone who sends a filter (UK only at present) will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win.
The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible: Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: https://goo.gl/om19un Looking INSIDE different filter media: https://goo.gl/hZWS6c Bacteria and filter media: https://goo.gl/123gAF How to clean an aquarium: https://goo.gl/bPMhvh Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: https://goo.gl/pXgqVj
If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects. Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching. See you next time. Pondguru
Hello there, welcome back. In this video, I've got a real treat for you
because I've got the heaviest of the heavy hitters
as far as external canister filters go for aquariums.
Making its way to the table,
weighing an impressive 9 kilos,
is the biggest, the baddest FX6.
Now I get asked about this one all the time.
How does the water flow through it?
How can I best maximize it, et cetera, et cetera.
It's almost a daily occurrence that I'm sending messages
and emails and all sorts backwards and forwards.
So to have the opportunity to show you exactly how this thing works
and exactly how to upgrade it is a dream come true for me
because this is going to save me hours per week explaining things.
If I can just make a good video that I can direct people to
and say, look, here's the filter, this is how it works.
I'll be a very very happy man.
Now unfortunately this one has arrived to me
and it's got nothing in it apart from the trays.
So I've got some old foams
and I'll put the foams in to let you see how they're arranged
and then we'll get on with the upgrade.
It's going to be quite a simple one
but the changes I'm going to make will be very very effective.
Okay these are the foams that come with the FX4, the FX5 and the FX6.
So this video will be suitable
for any owners of an FX-4, FX-5 and FX-6.
The size of the trays are exactly the same in all of the FX filters
and in the FX range we've
basically got a two-part coarse foam which slots in there
and if I remove this I'll be able to tell
you exactly how the filter works.
Okay that is our in pipe, that is our out pipe. As you can see the
in pipe goes all the way down to the bottom.
Down in here, the outpipe comes from the pump
which is at the bottom of our filter
and fires up and back out to our tank.
Put a little bit of illumination on there so you
can see inside properly and that's what we've got.
Hopefully you can see in the bottom of there.
But our in-pipe comes down here
and then the water swirls around and around and around and
goes around the outside of the trays through the foams.
Well the water travels between the foam
foam and this wall here, because we've got those fins there,
It allows it to travel up freely once it's gone through the foam
and then it comes down over the
top of the trays so the water actually flows
from top to bottom in these trays and once it's gone
right through the trays comes out the bottom
then it swirls around inside here and it's drawn out by
our pump spat out back to the tank.
So now that we know how the water flows through the filter
We know where to put our coarse foams,
our medium foams, which ordinarily wouldn't be in here,
and our fine pad. I've seen a lot of these filters
with a fine pad on the very bottom and that's just
absolutely the wrong place to put it.
These are pretty impressive trays.
I, you know, I normally condemn filters
for not having this and not having that,
you know, the limitations,
but the FX filters have an excellent capacity to keep the water clear.
They do lack a little bit of space for media
because of the reliance on those big foam rings,
but they still hold quite a lot of media.
They are very, very good filters.
There's a high flow rate, great mechanical capacity,
and a pretty good biological capacity as well.
So I cannot really say anything negative about these filters.
They are very, very good.
Right, that's how our filter would normally be.
Three trays stacked on top of each other in both the FX-5 and FX-6.
In the FX-4 we would only have two trays.
Let's just concentrate on one tray at a time
because all of the outside of these trays
are going to be set up in exactly the same way.
Basically what that will involve
is removing this big coarse foam like so.
So because this filter hasn't got any foams in, we need some foams.
Now we're not going to buy the official foams
because they cost a fortune,
and they're only coarse and we're not going to buy compatible foams
because again they're only coarse.
What we are going to do is fit a coarse and medium foam in here,
and that actually fits in better than you may think.
Here's our ordinary pond foam with a bumpy side
and a flat side.
This actually fits together, if we put the two bumpy sides together
It actually fits together just like a set of teeth.
That combined thickness enables us
to get a piece of foam in here very, very well.
In fact, to get two pieces of foam in here,
the coarse one and the medium one.
So if we have the coarse one on the outside,
water's gonna hit that first,
it's gonna travel through there,
then it's gonna go through our medium foam,
and then it's gonna rise up down through our trays.
And just for reference,
each of the foams that we are gonna cut
is 37 and a half centimeters long which is 14
and three-quarter inches by nine centimeters wide
which is three and a half inches and out of a coarse
and medium foam we can get one two three
strips so it only needs two coarse and two medium
foams to get a full set for an FX5 or an FX6.
Now, in the style of all the best...
TV shows, here's one I did earlier. This one is actually
from an FX5 that I had here before the FX6 arrived.
That one is already set up.
See the water's going to come through the coarse foam,
through the medium foam, up and then down through our trays.
Right, that's looking down into it. You can
see how well that bit's knitted together.
Sometimes they don't really mesh together very well,
but you can still easily get the coarse and the medium foam in.
And that's where our water rises up, so it rises,
actually you can just see all the way through there, down to the table.
And that's where water rises all the way up, so it comes through
the foams, follows these fins up, and it goes down through our trays.
One,
three trays.
So I'm going to take them out of my FX5 trays,
and I'm going to put them into Danny's FX6 trays.
Bear in mind, these trays are the same size.
When you're pushing them in, they might get a little bit buckled up.
But because of these wide windows in here,
it gives you a chance to get your finger in
and just make sure that they're pushed right down
to the bottom, just like that.
Just as a cost comparison,
to do three trays with six of the ordinary foams, the official
ones, costs approximately 56 English pounds,
which probably is near $70.
It might actually cost a little bit less in the US,
but that's what it cost us in the UK
For compatible ones, if you buy six compatible foams
which are also coarse, the cheapest I could
see those for was around about 13 English pounds,
which is about 16, 17 dollars. That's a hell of a
lot cheaper, but that's only coarse.
Doing it this way is approximately the same cost
as the compatible foams, but you're getting a medium and a coarse.
And that not only makes financial sense,
but it also makes filtration sense as well,
because you're going from coarse to medium
before the water travels down through your trays.
If you only have a coarse foam, although it's pretty thick,
the fine muck is just gonna get through there
and it's all gonna be on the fine pad,
which we're gonna put in the top tray.
This way, doing it with a coarse and medium,
You've got a graded approach
and remember the goal with this particular series of videos
is not only to try and get a full cycle by setting
the filters up properly it's also to extend the
cleaning times as well because you don't want
to be looking at a filter every week or every other
week. Once a month, once every two months,
once every four or five months. You set a filter up
right and size it properly you should hardly ever need to look in it.
Now comes the important part.
Well, another important part,
and that is actually putting the media into here.
We want to try and get as much media in as we can.
And we're basically going to fill up all three trays
with good biological media.
Now, you can put any sort of media in that you want.
We are going to try and set this up to create a full cycle.
So we're going to go with a BioHome Ultimate.
And when I switch this on,
we'll be able to weigh out exactly how much each tray takes.
So I think between the three trays it should take 5 kilos based
on the dimensions and that's
what I always recommend to people,
but we'll see exactly how much it can take now.
That is 1.65 kilos.
I always worked on it being 1.7 kilos so that's pretty close,
if I'd packed this in a little
bit neater it would be 1.7 kilos, guarantee it.
So 1.7 times 3 is just over 5,
allowing for a fine pat on
the top, that's about 5 kilos.
Okay, that can be our top tray.
So we've left the media just down from the top a little bit
to allow room for a fine pad on there.
That's our top tray.
Okay, now the pads that I normally sell are crazy thick,
so we're gonna use a slightly thinner one.
And
And we're gonna cut a circular piece out of here
we'll
to go in
see
the top
you
of our
in a
top tray.
minute.
Okay then, let's take a look in our trays.
So from the bottom up,
foams, media, foams, media.
And then our top tray.
Media and also a fine pad.
So now when our water goes through all the foams and up
and down through the trays, it has to go through a fine pad.
It's going to filter out all the fine muck,
which will ensure that all of our media stays very, very clean.
A lot heavier than it was when it arrived.
There
you go.
Now that's just packed out with awesomeness.
Okay, let's get our top block back on if I can find it.
Now I'll just run through a few facts
and figures as to how much it pumps and how much it's supposed to treat
and also how much it actually will treat for a full cycle.
So those figures are quite interesting and very different.
Now as I mentioned in the intro, it weighs 9 kilos.
That's a pretty heavy filter. It weighs
a hell of a lot more than that now
because we've actually put 5 kilos of filter media into it.
So it's quite a heavy thing. Pretty big as well,
but it needs to be big because it's supposed to treat
and get this up to 1500 litres. Now I've no doubts
that it will keep 1500 litres clear but it doesn't
really stand a chance of keeping that water healthy
as far as a full cycle goes. We've only
got five kilos of media in here
and that has absolutely maxed it out and that actually makes
this filter suitable for a tank up to 500 litres
so that's actually a third of what the manufacturer says
But we're talking about full cycle filtration,
which is zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and zero or low nitrates.
And it's that nitrate figure that is the important one.
It's pretty easy to keep ammonia and nitrite to zero, but the nitrate,
you do need a certain amount of good media to support both aerobic...
anaerobic bacteria and it's the anaerobic bacteria
that get to work on the nitrate that's what
completes our cycle that gives us a full cycle
so there's no way we can get 15 kilos of media
in here unless we empty everything out
and you know do away with all the trays and foams and
everything and totally just fill it up
but that's not going to make for a very good filter
There's probably a few people out there thinking, hold on,
I've got an African Cichlid tank or a Predator tank that's 600 litres,
I've only got one of these running, because it said it would do up
to 1500 litres, does that mean I'm not going to get a full cycle?
Well, if you've got a heavily stocked tank, the news gets worse,
because it can take anywhere from a kilo and a half to two kilos
of media per 100 litres to give you the full cycle.
So, in effect, if you've got a very heavily stocked, say,
a Piranha tank or an African Cichlid tank or something,
one of these would probably be suitable for around about 250 litres.
And you might think that's ridiculous,
but remember we're talking about a full cycle.
We're talking about proper filtration.
Not just figures that are plucked out of the air
and I don't like being the bearer of bad news so
you know I imagine a lot of people cursing me now after seeing
this doesn't treat as much as the
manufacturer says it'll treat.
Fluval probably isn't too happy but this is a fantastic filter.
It really really is but if you've got a 900 litre tank
or you know 1000 litre tank you
need two of these and if you've got
a heavily stocked 500 600 litre tank you need two of these.
You can never overdo it with the filtration.
So there you go. All it took to upgrade this filter,
the FX6, and also for the FX5, is two of them,
two of them, and five kilos of media. Oh, and a fine pad as well.
And if you want to use chemical filtration,
it would go in the bottom of the bottom tray,
because we'd always go mechanical, biological, chemical, in that order.
Now, I have seen a few videos on YouTube where people
have put chemical filtration in the top of the top tray.
It's probably just so it's easy to get to,
but that's not the best place for it.
Best place, bottom of the bottom tray.
I haven't used any in here because I wanted to max it out, you know?
I didn't want to take up any space with carbon or anything.
And if you are going to use chemical filtration,
just use something like carbon or activated charcoal.
Don't go for anything that's recharged by bleach.
I've seen a few videos where people put that on top.
I've just recharged this with bleach, isn't it marvellous?
Boom, all the bacteria in the filter.
Nitrates, through the roof.
Problems with ammonia and nitrite.
It's such a fragile system in here that you need to look after it.
You cannot just go murdering it with chemical treatments.
And likewise, if you're using a chemical treatment
to actually treat your fish, an antibacterial treatment,
don't just add a bit more, don't go double dose or anything like that,
just keep it to the manufacturer's recommended dosage.
If you go over the top, that can affect the filter as well,
because remember, the antibacterial agents kill good bacteria
as well as bad bacteria, and in here, this will absolutely
be alive with good bacteria, and you'll want it to stay that way.
Now after all that doom
and gloom bacteria does come back very very fast especially on the bio
home because it's so receptive to bacteria it only takes
a few bits to be surviving and
it repopulates again.
The aerobic bacteria will colonize absolutely everything very very fast
so if you do happen to kill it off it will come back very very quickly.
The anaerobic bacteria
is a little bit more fragile
so it does take a lot longer to come back so you know if you
killed off the bacteria in your filter your ammonia
and nitrite should come back to zero
pretty quick you know within two three weeks
your nitrate may take a further four to six
months so looking after what's in here by not over treating your tank
and not putting
unnecessary chemical treatments in is a really big part
of keeping this filter working properly
And indeed, any filter working properly.
It does cost a lot to buy, and it costs a canny bit for the media,
but once you've got this thing set up,
it will repay you with water quality and also water clarity as well.
It's a really, really good filter.
I'll put links to the filter and also the media
and all that in the video description and in the pinned comment,
and if you found this video useful.
Hit the thumbs up button, share it wherever you want,
because I would imagine there'd be a hell of a lot of people on forums
and websites and Facebook groups
who own one of these who would benefit
from seeing it set up as it is here.
In fact, it's not so much that the fish keeper would benefit from it,
it's that their fish would benefit from it.
That's where my loyalties lie, is to the fish, not so much to the fish
keepers or the companies making these filters, it's to the fish.
I just want what's best for the fish.
The Kraken filter, it will make your fish happy if you use it properly.
Okay, check out my other videos,
I've done quite a few already on the various filters,
and if you've got a filter you want to send me, get in touch,
my contact details are in the video description
and also in the pinned comment.
I'll see you next time.