Burrs for polishing Rocks / Agates With A Dremel Or Rotary Tool.

Here's a take two of this video. I'm a little ADD and I was trying to rush things a little too fast and then I ran out of memory card. All in all it was a mess. I deleted it and I'm starting over. I will be polishing some of this stuff, maybe all of it, in this video when I demonstrate some of these birds. This is mahogany obsidian. I already ground that spot a little bit and I will show that in a little. This is a stream worn pebble and it's been beat to death so it has little micro fractures all over the surface. That's how it got to be round. You can see I was goofing And then this is blue agate, some people call it blue chalcedony, but you can see some spots I polished on in the last video to show the polish you can put on. This is a seam agate that's purple, some people call it purple chalcedony as well. I'm not going to get into the whole agate chalcedony debate. But I'm going to talk about burrs and wheels, or mostly wheels and points that polish rock in this one. Things like this that I've made, I actually didn't put a real high polish on this. shiny. That's Woolly Mammoth Ivory. I did polish that from Siberia. And this is Manzanita Burl. And those kind of burrs and things I'll do other videos on. That was just pieces of artwork I've done as a necklace for my wife. I want to talk about the cheaper line of things first and that would be the Silicon Carbide. There's all kinds of them. Here's some from Jelenko that are mounted points. And I'm going to talk about unmounted wheels in a minute. These are Silicon Carbide and these are really good quality ones. I like these Jelenko ones. One right here that I'll work with, a fast cut two abrasive wheels by Dentsply. I got these in an auction, I don't know if you can still buy them, but I would assume somewhere you can find some version of them, but these are unmounted wheels, and these are smaller wheels. And here, let's see if that's right, yeah, grind a little bit with that, but these are all, all silicon carbide that I'm going to show. Now these are compressed silicon carbide grit, and then you, of course you have your rubber wheels that come in all sizes, shapes, and coarsenesses, and um, one of my favorites, one of the shapes for doing any type of my artwork and stuff is the knife edge and I like that in a lot of different types of wheels and burrs. These are BestQual brand silicon rubber polishers and they are fine, sorry, my brain's a little scattered, I'm trying to not be all over the place too much, These were I think $35 for 100 of them and they're one of my favorite wheels I use. I usually use these to polish a lot of things, including things that aren't rock. But, to get back to what I was talking about with silicon carbide wheels and burrs, they come in all thicknesses and shapes and sizes and you know, you can get points and cones and all of that, I've got, this is just a small sample, but I've got dozens and dozens of different types of silicon carbide, these are them in here, points and wheels and things, I have boxes of them and things I've bought through the years, for what I'm grinding and cutting and working and they're great. I love greenstone, which is usually silicon carbide. These are one of my favorites. I dropped it, of course. Right here, Dura Green by Shofu. Shofu are a really good quality. I'm really happy with Shofu, anything I've used. So these are Dura Green unmounted wheels. There's a dozen of these in there. And unmounted just means that you have to put them on your own mandrel. You know, which Not a big deal, but you get a little more stone for your money out of these. I actually found a deal where I get these for like $13 for 12 of them. And this is one that's worn down. I asked for Shofu because there are a lot of other brands out there you can get. For example, this is one off Amazon. That is one of the best deals I found. June Lixon, $9.80, and it came with 10 mandrels. And it comes with these, which are aluminum oxide, medium and fine. So it comes with these two which are Silicon carbide, and they actually hold up pretty well. My only complaint is the hole in the center is fairly big So if you don't use their Mandrel that has the bigger screw they can kind of be a little wobbly, but not a big deal There's some best qual which are alright for the money because I think this whole thing of a hundred of them was $14 or something they don't hold up as well as the Shofu I don't know if you can see the difference in color all that but these best qual Go away a little faster, they wear down a little quicker, but when they're 14 cents a piece versus a dollar, you know, I don't mind that. Here is, I'll talk about some of the a little bit more expensive wheels, because you can buy rubber wheels for pretty cheap. One of my favorite brands, where'd they go, Dedico, and these are safe for scratch removal and polishing of chrome cobalt metals. And there's two classes of rubber wheels in points and burrs and things. That are either for metal or they're for ceramics. These are Ceramaster, so they're for ceramic, you know what I mean. Some of these for metals, like this cheap kit I got off Amazon. You can still polish rock with them, but what I found to be the difference is when you get these little more expensive ones that are for ceramics. Usually the matrix that the grit is set in, like in other words the rubber, is usually a little firmer or set up a little better so it'll actually cut rock a little better, polished rock, or ceramic or whatever you're working on, a little better than the ones that say they're from metal. The ones from metal tend to eat away quicker and they'll wear down faster on rock. They will still generally work, so you don't have to go buy... the ceramic ones to polish rock necessarily but it makes it much easier and you get a nicer outcome if you buy the ones that are actually for ceramic. You can notice these Jelenko points, mounted points for porcelain they just are a better quality and I'll grind on this agate and some of these in a minute and show you. I'm not going to grind too much into this. This is a frog I'm going to be trying to finish at some point. One of those little leaf frogs. I'll carve a leaf for it. Before I ramble too much, I want to talk about the polishing side of silicon carbide. And there's different ones out there, but these are probably my top choice. They're by Shofu, Ceramiste. And they have one that's called Standard, which I want to order a box of Standard wheels. They're the Standard grit, kind of a medium grit. And then this is the Ultra and Ultra II. These are basically, that's what these are. They are for putting a really high shine on rock or porcelain. These are made for a dental lab use, that's why they're Ceramiste and ceramics, you know, they tie that together because crowns that you get when you go get your tooth crowned down and get a crown put on it is either gold or it's ceramic. These are for dental labs to use to polish those ceramics. And this is, like I said, a cheaper version. And these are like $22 a box of 12 of these wheels. So I'll demonstrate those in a minute. Mostly going to just talk about polishing in this. So a lot of these coarse wheels are just for a quick demo. I will show them grinding on the different rocks basically to shape and contour it like I've done with this and get it down to kind of a rough shape before you polish. And you want to work from coarse down to fine as far as, you know, these are coarse. All these are fairly coarse. And you can get them in different grits. They're pretty coarse and then you want to switch to like a rubber wheel to go a little bit finer You know to go over it and then these are for polishing and I will show these polishing in a little bit But the shaping and stuff I do a lot of that with these if I want to do it with silicon carbide These are a little bit higher end In fact, I believe if I'm not mistaken These three are diamond And so I probably shouldn't be talking about them, but Shofu makes wheels and points in both diamond impregnated and silicon carbide impregnated, and these would be silicon carbide and these diamond, I believe. I might have it backwards, but I'll look at that in a bit. So we're going to talk about the silicon carbide right now. You can buy all kinds of brands and sizes and shapes of rubber wheels and burrs and There's some points that are impregnated with silicon carbide grit. And then you can step up to the more expensive, which are nicer to use, but they do cost more money, and that is the diamond side of things. So I'm going to talk about that really quick. Thank you very much for being here. Here's a set that the price of them would scare most people away. Anyway, um... I got these used from somebody, so I didn't pay very much for them. But these are by Comet. All right. That's their symbol. It's their German. And these have diamond grit in them, and there's coarse, medium, and fine, and they come in different shapes too, coarse, medium, and fine, and they just do a better job. They remove stuff a little faster, a little smoother. These will actually work really smooth and well, but these will cut a little faster, so you'll be able to polish things quicker with the diamond. Now, that doesn't mean you have to go pay what these cost, because these are literally $70 a piece if you buy them brand new from them. I've actually seen them for more than that, depending on who you buy them from. I don't use those very often because I'm saving them. I don't know what for, but... This AZ dent, and this is from this same company, BestQual. These are diamond impregnated stone. So these are a hard wheel. Kind of like these, but instead of silicon carbide, these have diamond grit in them. And they cut even faster and better than this wheel. And I use these for shaping. This is out of the container now while I'm at it. I have this to show you the brand. I got these off from eBay, AZ Dent, and this one was, like I said, BestQual, and I think I paid $22 for it back in the day before I discovered AZ Dent, and it works great, I've used it a bunch. But these, BestQual, or sorry, AZ Dent, are just as good as a BestQual. This one's practically brand new, I actually just used it to grind that, and I had a piece of agate I was grinding on, but I'll just start over for this video. So I will show that. But here is the other ones I want to show you. This is a knife edge. This is a hard rubber or silicone rubber. This is an extra fine, and I think this is fine. You can kind of see you can't in this one, that's how much more fine the grit is in this one. And by the time I get down to this point, I actually just worked this over with some of my burrs, including a... Aluminum oxide will just, it's a little finer grit, it just puts a little smoother finish and you just want to keep stepping down, getting rid of deep scratches, less deep, less deep, until you kind of just have this matte finish. And then you can just go straight to these. These come in like five different grits from extra coarse, coarse, medium, fine, extra fine, or something like that, I can't remember. And they are about $13 a piece. If you're buying from Comet, they do sell this same shape and size and different grits of them. Like I said, they're anywhere from I've seen them as cheap as like $50 on up to $70. It just depends on where you buy them, but I don't buy the Comet ones. I just buy these now, the AZ Dent. They work great. I like these knife edge because when I'm working on things and I want to polish this, this is something I did. I just found it in my box and grabbed it out, but it was just to show I can get down to the nitty gritty and get into spots with this and polish. So I'm going to go back to silicon carbide, and I'm going to take this Sea Maggot, or Or, well, Kyle Sudney. I'll choose a spot to grind and polish a spot on this to show how you can get a polish on it from a rough rock, or a piece like this, and I will use the diamond to show with those two. And I'll demonstrate one or the other on this obsidian frog I'm probably going to leave alone for now because I'm going to finish carving that later. So I have a vacuum system here, it's a dental vac, dental lab vac, and it's got a filter in it that's safe down to I can't remember how many thousand microns or something. It keeps my lungs healthy and safe. I don't breathe dust because of this. If you're going to be doing this stuff, wear a dust mask. Get some kind of safe ventilation with a proper kind of filter because this stuff is bad. There's all kinds of ways to contour your rock down to shape before you want to start polishing it. You know, there's these diamond burr kits and things and all that, but I'm going to, like I said, demonstrate these. This is the same wheel, just one that's worn down. I'll show that right now, but you'll have to excuse the vacuum noise. All this over, let me drag it onto the floor. Okay, I think we'll choose this spot for the silicon carbide to make currier. You can see I'm taking down the high points and just contouring and shaping it all to where I'll be able to polish it. And I'll cut back in a second when I've got that kind of ground smooth. I'm just going to grind with this. I just don't want this video to be too long. I'll get back to you. I'm back. I actually didn't think about it. You saw me grinding with this. I'm going to I'm going to show this, this is a Jelenko. Where did I set those? I must have put them in the drawer. That's these, Jelenko. I really like these, they cut really nice and smooth. I need to get me some more of them. I'm just going to try to remove the flaws and cracks and whatever out of this. And at the same time, just try to keep it really smooth. Oh, I better... I'm going to say this. So, cutting cabochons, a lot of people are trying to figure out how to do that with their Dremel tool or, you know, their hand piece, whatever you have. Rotor tool, in other words, and I will say this, cutting a cab by hand, you'd have to be very skilled and take your time and go very, very light pressure for a long time and really work on rounding and doming it to be able to get the same kind of results as you'd get from a, like a cab king or whatever, like a six wheel machine. I don't make cabs like this with my handpiece. I don't have the piece here, but I will be posting a video in the next few days, hopefully, because I've finished filming, finally, and I'm working on the editing of a project where I took three pebbles and I made a piece of jewelry out of them, and I carved a wolf. I have a moon that is sitting in front of, and that's embedded in the other pebble that looks like a horizon. So that's the kind of things I do with my handpiece and polished rocks with. I do things like this with rock. And polish them, you know, on polished rock, whatever. But as far as cabbing goes, you can try it, but it will not get you the same perfect dome and mirror finish that you get from a three-wheel machine. Like this, for example. Okay, that's a very large surface to do with a burr. You're going to have, I mean, you're talking about so much time and patience that it's not for this. You can try this. Just don't expect to have that big, flat, smooth surface, like, all over, like, if you're contouring a rock, like, especially people that carve fire agates and things like that, and opals even, where they're cutting away the potch or whatever else down to the actual fire, and they don't want it cabbed, you know, and want to polish it, this is a great way to do it. And like I said, watch my other video and you'll see me carve a little wolf out of, this is a scrap off from the two pebbles I cut, a slab of each. Glued them together, and then I carved the wolf out of the black so it had a white moon behind it. And then I embedded those in the other rock. But yeah, I was going to bring that up. You don't want to be expecting this kind of a result with a Dremel tool. Yeah, okay, I'll get back to it now. So I'm going to just really try to smooth this out as evenly as I can so I don't leave divots and stuff that I have to deal with later because if you polish an uneven surface, it'll look uneven and it'll still be shiny. Yeah, I'll quit rambling and get back to this very light pressure and just try to smooth it. Come back to talk about one of my ultimate favorite burrs. They're actually just discs. That's these Mizzi. They're made by 3M, I believe it used to say on them. I bought these a long time ago. That's the price I used to pay for them back in the day for eight of them. They cost more than that now unless you can find some spot. If you find a cheaper place to buy them, let me know, but you get eight of these discs and a mandrel. I like to put them in upside down, use the edge of it, and I'll show you that in just a second. I need to go help someone real quick. Okay, so what I was saying is I mount these so that the grit is down. Because what these are, there's little metal discs on the bottom side of this, and each one of those discs is pressed diamond grit. So there's little metal pads over this flexible fiber disc. You can see the linen impregnated with plastic, so it's just really strong. Now, there's a way to use these and the sandpaper that you use for your Dremel tool or whatever really benefit from learning. I see a lot of people put it with the grit up and then they just push sand all over and they are grinding that whole surface when they do it and they wear them out fast and a lot of people don't even use a sandpaper like that because they get frustrated with it. If you put it upside down like this, let me just show you, just use the edge of it. It'll slowly wear away. You'll always have the same grit because you're only using the edge. I'll turn the vacuum back on and show you. And I'm using this in place of, like, if you order these, you know, you got the Ultra and Ultra II, there is a standard, I think it's called Ceramiste Standard, and this is like a medium grit, and it'll take it down to like what this is going to do. This is a very fine grit, and it just gets it prepped for the polishing, or it's like these. So, I know this is a diamond pad, but I did want to show these during this video. These are awesome. This is like a coarse grit one. It's red. I think this yellow is fine. I think it says on it. It says yellow, but I think yellow are fine. I'm actually showing these on camera. I didn't realize that. And I'm focused wrong, too. Let me quit being so unprofessional here and get focused back down to where I'm working. So here's the red. You can actually see the diamond sparkling on it. And these yellow are the fine. And I love the yellow. If you're only going to buy one, just buy the yellow because when you're doing your carvings and whatever you're doing out of stone, you get down to a certain point. You can sand your whole work all over with the polishers. And I'll show you how I do that. I'm just using that edge. And that quick, I'm almost done. I go over it a couple different directions carefully to make sure it's smooth. I'm still doing this kind of fast. If I were to actually be working on a project, I'd be going a lot more slow and careful, but I just don't want this to be a long, long, boring video. The only reason I know about these is I worked in a dental field, in a dental lab, and we use these to finish our crowns, or to get them ready to polish anyway, when we're grinding our margins down and finalizing the shape. These work really well for that. You can see how that's cutting, I don't know if I've got the best light for this, but hopefully you can see that. Like I said, you can get the same results from using, you know, different grits of rubber wheels and stuff. And there's different brands of wheels I like too, but Shofu has been really good. BestQual has been good. They're a little cheaper on the vacuum if I'm doing that. So it's not perfect, but I'm going to keep going just to show you. Okay, so now I'm So now I'm going to go over it with this Ultra. Ceramiste Ultra. Yeah, I've still got a lot of scratches I should have removed. You'll still get the idea. It polishes it. Like I said, I'd like to actually get the standard grit Shofu burs too. I just have other methods of doing it. You can see it's starting to get shiny already. It's not going to look like the best shine because I'm doing it too fast and didn't get rid of all the scratches, deeper scratches. Probably do that. But you'll get the point. Now one thing I should mention that I don't think too many people think about, But this... You know, the Ultra has a certain size grit in it, and then the Ultra II has an even finer grit in it, but as I'm sitting there working on this, it's leaving that grit around on here. You don't want to just grab this and start rubbing this rubber wheel all over that coarser grit and expect it to polish it finer. So you want to clean this off in between, and I'll do that in just a sec. I'm going to just go to focus on this part down here, but like I said, I'm not sure you can see that, but I didn't smooth it very well because I'm doing this a little too fast. I would normally take the time and go over it with something a little better than that. You know, like all my carvings and things. To make sure... Ah, I can't find my brush. I finished up the project and I moved things around and now I don't know where things are. For some reason my toothbrush is missing. Have you seen my toothbrush anywhere? I don't know why it's gone. I'll just keep it right here. Okay. Oh, okay. Wait over there. Thank you. That's what kids are for. Their eyes still work. So get rid of all that grit. Grab the Ultra 2. Got to use the combobulator. Alright, this one puts like a mirror shine on things. Which really isn't going to show good if I don't have this smooth. And I don't because I went over it too quick. It's kind of a common thing in my videos that I'm trying to rush here for this demonstration. But I think what I can show you on to really kind of show off the fact that it'll just put a real high polish on things. These really do work good, I promise. I'm only spinning this. At like 4,000 rpm because that is a big wheel and you don't want to spin them really fast. You'll burn them up and you risk bending your mandrel over and smacking your fingers and stuff because the g-force going around that big of a weight if it gets off balance at all or you bump it and it wobbles and that wobble can turn into a catastrophic failure. Seen it happen, not pretty to lose a mandrel. Anyway there's uh I'm just gonna cut it there with these. Um, like I said, I didn't remove the deep scratches from these guys well enough. I should have gone over a little better with this, a little smoother, and uh, and probably a rubber wheel in between or something. This one's a little too funny. Anyway, you get the idea though, you can see the polish that I'm putting on that. If you take your time and your work and get it smooth, this will put a mirror polish on them. Now, these don't work as fast and as smooth as the diamond, which I'm going to switch to now. This is diamond. I probably shouldn't have used that in the middle of... I'm using just these guys. My brain's not working. Silicon carbide burrs. Not that it matters. I use a mixture of both on my projects. It doesn't matter your burrs. I just, for demonstration purposes on this video, have shown you the cheaper versions of stuff. Now I will go to the more expensive version. So here's this AZ dent to vacuum back on. I'll just go fractures right there. We'll still do that spot. I'll just do this end right here next to that. I'm going to very delicately go over this with really light passes a whole bunch of different directions with each burr and just really work on getting it as smooth as I can get it. I'm trying to work out all these little chips and flecks. I still see part of a fracture right there but I'll focus on this right here for now. Once again I'll just grab this guy, the Mizi Flexus AZ Dent. These are knife edge so I have a very thin edge to be trying to smooth a big surface with. I can use these to calm it, but I'm going to show you these AZ dents that I was talking about and just try to go as smooth as I can. This burr actually is brand new, it still has a little bit of a rough edge on it. I'll just run it over this other rock and try to get it where I need it even. This burr is going to leave a little bit of a dimply surface until I get it broken. Yeah, I don't like that. I need to break this in. I don't like running my diamond burrs on my diamond shaper, but I'll just try to take off that unevenness. Diamond on diamond, just never. I'll just use my cheap diamond file for that. I don't cry if I wear holes in this one. I use this for shaping my silicone wheels and stuff that usually aren't diamond grit. Go over this. It's kind of leaving grooves because it's skipping on it. I've got to, like I said, work it over a little better to get it smoother. I really need to break in this burr. That's something that's important too is breaking in your new wheels before you take them to your final project and cut little grooves in it you didn't mean to or something. Because these edges will be a little rough when they first start and you've got to get them broken. Yeah, it's not going to look as shiny because I don't have as smooth of a surface, but you get the idea. See how quick that was? Shine? Pretty good on both of those. This one's just contoured more. This is more smooth. Um, let's demonstrate on some of this stuff real quick. I think what I should go to... Yeah, I'm going to use the silicon carbide for a minute on here. Try to get down deep enough to get past all the chips. in the surface from being in a stream bed for eons, slamming against other rocks over and over again until it's round. It's a volcanic glass, so it actually has little conical fractures in it all over the whole surface. You have to kind of get deeper than those. Okay, I'm going to try this rubber wheel on it too for a minute to see how it does. The Dedico. They were doing a quick and dirty job here, but I definitely spend more time when it's a piece of artwork. Working on make sure I just get everything perfectly smooth and get rid of all the scratches and work my way down And I'm usually not polishing big flat surfaces. What I'm usually doing is carving animals or Amphibians or things. I'm going to show this again. By the way, I'll get right back to this. This is that 3m disc what I like about it is I'm able to come in and surface this whole thing Work out a little deeper scratches and follow all the contours of it I'll go over my art with a pencil, you know, in the light and when I see some scratches I can just mark that spot and I'll come back and work them out. Anyway, I can match the contours without changing the shape of it with this, just using that edge. Go around carefully and flip things over and get a better finish on them before I polish them. That's why I love these. These are amazing. I hope they always keep making them because it sucks when you have something you like a lot and they quit making them. That's happened to me a couple times with burrs that I used in the past. Oh, I'm using diamond. I'm not paying attention to what I'm doing. Go back to that Dedico. So you can see this Dedico actually is putting a finer polish on there than this fine grit diamond. But this fine grit diamond is cutting it smoother. This is polishing it but it wasn't cutting as deep. I don't know how to explain it. But anyway, I'll go back over that spot I just went over that diamond burr to shine back on it. It's interesting, even though this is kind of almost putting a shine on it more, it's almost leaving it more scratched at the same time. So clean off the grit. We'll try this Ultra again. I've never tried these on Obsidian before, I'm curious about this. Yeah, I think that diamond was leaving a better surface. That's frustrating. This polishes but leaves scratches. Alright, yeah, the grit. Forgot my bobulator. Alright, I'm going to call that a fail. This is polishing the highlights and making it really shiny but This, so this cuts into it a little bit, leaves a little bit of a scratch surface, and at the same time is polishing it a little. And that's the Dedico. So it looks polished, but there's actually little grooves and scratches. This guy I could smooth it better with, I think. I'm going to switch over to those diamonds and show that. Even though it has a flat, a matte finish on it, it's actually cutting smoother. I think what's happened is that Dedico has some coarse Grains in it, like it got contaminated with coarser grain than the majority of it. So the majority of it is polishing it fairly good. But there are some bigger grit pieces of silicon carbide in it that are scratching at the same time. So it's leaving scratches but polishing like 90% of it. This is days later. I was finally editing that video that I meant to get done a while ago and life happens, you know, so I got busy. But I was noticing in it, I had a complete mess up with this Dedico rubber wheel in there where it was putting a polish on there but it was leaving grooves. I just went through that on the video so I won't keep you explaining. I use these all the time and I love them and I haven't had any issues with them. But I realized I was working on a piece of wood the other day. And I had been using something with coarse grit, and then I went right straight to this, and I think what happened was I spun some coarse grit into this wheel that's more coarse than it is. And I couldn't tell you what grit these are. These say green coarse, but I want to show you what they actually can do. I'm going to clean this up and get rid of whatever the contamination was, and then show you on this. I've got a piece of Brazilian agate sitting here that has been saw cut, and you can see those lines in it. It's not smooth. It's not a very good saw cut. This is actually a pretty poor saw cut for a rock saw. But I'm not going to get those grooves out of it. I just want to show you this real quick. Because this is a good example of a good hard agate to show you on. But I just want to show you because I don't want you thinking these are bad. These are actually good wheels. Clean this up. Just going to remove a little bit off there and clean that surface again. That ought to be good. Put it on a paper towel. Grit off there. We'll talk about that later. All right, so on this Brazilian agate, we're down here where these water level lines are. I just want to show you what these Detico wheels can do. And like I said, this won't be perfect either because it's got all these saw cut lines. Oh, sorry, you're not even. So they have saw cut lines that look like garbage. If you were truly polishing this, you'd want to remove those first. But I just want to show you that these, and these are for metal, but it's actually a good hard wheel, and so it works good for rock too. I like using them. See that shine it's putting on there? And it's an uneven surface like I did on that agate the other day, which I don't know if I showed you that. So like this, it still has all the scratches, or not scratches, the dimples in it, where this is smooth, and I'll show you that in a minute. So the difference between a good polish and a bad polish are going to be how much of your surface you get prepped right before you move to the polish. But these are... The impressive wheels. I just wanted you to see that. I don't want you thinking these are bad and they're contaminated because I contaminated that. It wasn't. And that's why I was saying it's important to make sure that you clean your coarse grit off before you go to that because I actually had grit from... and I don't like cutting wood with these. I would not recommend cutting wood with greenstone. You can if you want. I see people using all kinds of things for it. But it left a bunch of grit in the wood, and then that grit later got melted into this, probably or spun into it. So you can see once I clean it off, it can put a nice surface on there. This is, you can see it was actually removing, polishing pretty good. I hope that shows good enough. But these are good wheels. They do a good job. So let's get back to the other rambling mess. Okay, I keep running out of memory card space. But I've been working on this Obsidian and it's got just tons of micro fractures in it. I'm going to just take this Ultra 2. I think I can show you how good these polish because I'm not doing them justice. They really, really just put a high shine. I'm just going to go on the spot for a minute here to show you. You can sit here all day long and not remove hardly any of that rock but it'll polish what it's rubbing against if that makes sense. It removes very little material. Because it's such a fine grit in these Ultra 2s. They're honestly, like if you had to repolish glass to where it's completely clear, this is going to be your final step. You know, it's, I don't know what micron, I don't think it says on them, but they just, I don't know if you can tell that. Near spot in the middle there. See that? That shows it pretty good. Well, how did I have it there? Got to get the light just right to show you what I'm talking about. That's on Obsidian, if you've ever tried to polish Obsidian. I guess I could show these really quick. These are, uh, Comet ones. For this, I'll just hit this spot again and make it even better. Smooth it up a little more. Let me click on the vacuum. Push the medium. And so when you take your time to actually really do a smooth job, you get a lot better results with any of them, with the diamond or the silicon carbide. Silicon carbide is just going to take a little longer. Get my grit off there and go to the fine. I'm going to make sure, I think I cross-contaminated, got a little grit on this. Turn that up. We're getting there now, it's a lot better result, so you can see how, like I said, this is chalcedony or agate, they're all made out of the same silicate. Another thing I like to do is, so let me get my plate down. This is a cheap diamond paste I bought, and I actually am pretty happy with it. I have some of it that goes out in that container here, so that I can spin it onto my buff. I ran it on some copper the other day, so this turned green on me, but in there, 200,000 grit, which is excessive. But when you already have a really fine polish on things. I'll just show you this real quick. This on here doesn't take much. Like I said, I'm doing this all really quick. Even though it's a little bit longer video. When I'm finishing my artwork, I actually spend hours carefully going over everything. Polishing it and getting rid of all the scratches. You can tell. Yeah. Real high shine on things. So that really doesn't show because I left some of the deeper scratches. Let me get focused up closer. Maybe you can tell. So this is when I took the time to get rid of all the deep scratches, and this isn't. I actually almost feel like I dulled that a little bit, because it still has diamond residue down in the scratches, but I promise that is actually shiny. It's just not a smooth surface, so this is a smooth surface. That's a polished, textured surface, and that's a polished, smooth surface, but that's a pretty good shine. I wish I had done a better job with the... Um, silicon carbide burrs, right there, and done that good of a job with them to show you what you can do. Um, I try to hurry too fast because I don't want my videos too long and dragging out, but I'm going to actually, I have a, um, probably post a video where I did this with silicon carbide burrs only, and I did it quick because I wanted to show a start to finish, me putting a quick polish on a rock, and I can do better than this, and I want to show that. So I'm probably going to either polish This next little agate nodule, a little clear piece of agate surrounded by some yellows and reds. Or I'm going to pick one of these little nodules, cut into it, and then polish it with the silicon carbide burrs. So stay tuned for that. But my real videos, like the serious videos where I make serious things like this, I will have one coming up with a wolf that I carved for my wife. It's a wolf pendant. And it's more than just the wolf, and I will cut to a clip right now of me carving the wolf for it out of a black pebble and a white pebble that I glued together, and then I inlay it in another stone, but I'll just cut to the clip of me carving that wolf to show you right here. So that'll be my next video coming out after the polishing one, probably, because I still have to edit it. I'd like to grow this channel as fast as I can, like everybody else on YouTube, so I'd really appreciate it if you would like and subscribe, and comments are more than welcome. I would love comments, let me know what you think, let me know what you liked and disliked, and if you have any questions, I will be sure to answer them, and I'm even willing to make short videos explaining things better or demonstrating. Things better. If you have questions or want to know things. Thank you very much. Thanks again. Appreciate it. Bye. I'm back. Did you miss me? I'm happy. I will also be making things like this. I don't know. Can't even fit it in there. Not even going to try. That's just a sneak peek. This was something I made for Comic Con a few years ago. That's carved out of elk antler. And so is that one on the other side. And there's the skull up there. Anyway, I will be making more than just jewelry on this channel, so if you would like to see me make Fantasy weapons and things as well. Please let me know, but either way I'm gonna do it. So thanks again