How to Formulate Body Butters | Mango Sorbet Body Butter Tutorial

[music] [music] Hi everyone. I'm Anne Marie from  brambleberry.com and today I'm here to show   you a really fun project on how to make  solid body butter. And more importantly,   there's going to be some tips and tricks on how to  make your body butters feel less oily and also how   to get multiple formulations with the same types  of ingredients just changing up the ratios. If you   have ever made body butter and it kind of ended  up either like rock solid, like wouldn't melt on   the skin, or it was an oily, greasy mess and just  left you feeling tacky and ick, this is the video   for you. So, you might be thinking to yourself,  if you're brand new to making lotions, well,   okay, what's a body butter? What's a lotion? I  don't understand. So in this case for this video,   a body butter is referred to as something that  is an anhydrous product. And anhydrous is a very   fancy term for does not contain water. And the  bonus for not containing water is twofold. One,   uh there's no water to dilute the natural  goodness of the oils and the good things they   do for your skin. And two, you don't need to use  a preservative because there's no water in here.   It really can't grow mold or bacteria, which  means you can make this completely all natural   if you want to use only essential oils. Or you  can do what we did, which is use a little bit of   mica and a little bit of fragrance oil to make  this the most delicious summery goodness beach   fragrance ever. This is going to be a whipped body  butter. That means you are introducing air with   either hand mixers or some people when they're  doing this in really large sizes use like a big   industrial Hobart mixer as well. So often times if  you're making lotions your lotion might be up to   80% water. In the case of body butters, especially  ones that don't use any water and are anhydrris,   it is a mixture of hard butters, so like cocoa  butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter,   and soft oils or more importantly liquid oils.  So like sweet almond oil, argan oil, squaline,   olive oil, that type of thing. And the different  ratios, the different proportions is what gives   you the different firmnesses or softness or  spreadability. So one of the most frequently asked   questions that we get about body butters is how  do you get it to be less greasy, right? Like it's   100% liquid oil and butter that is pretty greasy.  We like to use an oil absorbing product like an   arrow root powder or some people use tapioca root  powder and that helps to absorb that extra oil but   still gets onto your skin in a beautifully almost  powdery finish and gives you all the goodness   that's in all of those oils and butters. For this  hybrid video, meaning I'm giving you a project and   a recipe, but I also want you to learn something.  So, a little bit of technique and theory, we did   three different formulations so you could see  the difference. One, this is kind of our starter,   which is a very firm formulation. It's 85% mango  butter, 15% coconut oil. Coconut oil is solid at   room temperature. It melts at 76°. So, this is  a very firm mixture. And then the second we did   is a softer version. So, it's 65% mango butter  to a 35% coconut oil and sweet almond oil mix.   And then finally, and you can see the difference  in the texture here, we did a really medium one,   which is 75% mango and 25% of that coconut oil and  that sweet almond oil. One of the things with body   butters that kind of really changes up how you  produce them is are you whipping your body butters   from a solid state to a whipped state or are you  melting all the ingredients and then whipping? And   it really depends on how hard that butter is to  start with. So here's a great example of like to   melt or not to melt. This is aloe butter. You can  see it's very soft. It is literally melting the   second I touch it. This you can whip from this  hardened state. It will not burn out your hand   mixer. This is mango butter. It is hard. It is not  melting on contact with my skin. And this is one   that I like to melt down before I whip and then  cool it quickly to make sure that all of the fatty   acid profile is fully oriented correctly in the  different layers so your entire mix stays fully   hydrogenated and smooth. We actually found that  these recipes all worked so much better when we   melted the mango butter down gently and then did a  rapid cooling process right into the refrigerator.   And one note on the ratios that we went over  is there's no right or wrong to your ratios.   Like it's whatever you prefer. This video is just  here with kind of my favorite out of these ratios,   but I really want to give you the tools  and the techniques and the theory and the   understanding of how to formulate an anhydra  body butter so that you can make this your own.   One note about body butters in general, sometimes  you'll see on Etsy like people don't ship their   body butters during the summer, and that's  because these little guys, they're an oil,   so they will melt in hot temperatures. So, think  like a hot car or a hot purse, for example, or a   hot package going across the country in a truck,  they will melt. So, the hardness and the softness   really also depends on the ambient temperature.  So, that's something to consider also when you're   doing your formulations. A quick word about the  ingredients I chose. So, keeping in mind that this   is kind of just a theory on the percentages of  the liquid oil versus the butters versus the kind   of semiolids. So, you can always mix and match.  So, like for example, for my liquid oil, we're   going with sweet almond oil. You could totally use  avocado oil and still end up with a very similar   ingredient list. So, one of the oils I use, which  is like my semi-olid oil, basically coconut oil,   um it's solid at room temperature, but  it has a melt point of 76 degrees. So,   it does melt on contact with the skin, which is  really nice, and it's affordable/cost effective,   which I also like. It's a fantastic emollient,  which is a fancy word for moisturizer for your   skin. Mango butter, of course, is the star of our  recipe. And why mango butter? So, mango butter is   packed with really good for you ingredients like  antioxidants. It's got a naturally nourishing   lipid profile, which is a fancy way of saying  all the different fatty acids in it are really   good for your skin barrier protection. And it  also contains naturally occurring squalane oil.   Squalane is a fantastic oil that has really good  conditioning properties and antioxidant properties   for your skin. You'll see squaline oil just  alone as an individual face product ingredient,   and it naturally occurs in mango butter. So, now  it's time to get all of these added to my double   boiler to work on the melting phase. So, we're  going to go with 30.75 o of our mango butter. Now,   it's time for coconut oil. I'm just going to do  6.17 for my coconut oil. And then, finally, we're   going to be doing our sweet almond oil. And we're  going right about 3 o with this. All right. Now,   this is going to be melted. And while I'm waiting  for this to melt, I'm going to clear a spot in my   freezer or my refrigerator because one of the  keys for this is we are going to actually cool   this entire thing to a kind of thick viscous  consistency before we start to beat it to whip   that air into it. Now we are fully melted and  it is time to transfer this to something with a   handle. And you might be thinking to yourself, but  why? It is so much easier to move this into the   fridge or a freezer if there's a handle. And two,  when you are whipping this with your hand beers,   like it, you have to be able to hold on. So,  take your hot pads, get this out of your double   boiler maker, put it into something that has a  handle, and then get ready to transfer this to the   refrigerator for about 4 hours or the freezer for  about an hour. I actually like the refrigerator   just because it's a slower, more gentle cool  down process and I can kind of keep stirring   throughout the four hours. But you are really  going to need to give it a solid four hours if   you decide to do this via the refrigerator  method. Freezer is about an hour. So, this   has been in the refrigerator for just about four  hours. And you can see like it's pretty it's like   a good whippable consistency. If you look online,  you'll see lots of different kind of tutorials on   whipping everything from like a very thin to like  this consistency. I personally like it at this   consistency because I find that it holds the peaks  better, but total personal preference for you. So,   we're just going to do a little bit of whipping  just to break this up. And then we're going to   add our fragrance. Using papaya extract  in this because the papaya is really good   with antioxidants. Helps with skin brightening,  which I love. Adding our arrowwood at the end and   our colorant at the end. So, let me just break  this up a little bit and give it a quick whip. You guys, this is so satisfying. It's ridiculous.  Uh, now it's time to add fragrance. And so for   this project, I am doing a combination of  two different Brambleberry fragrances. I am   doing our Mango Mango, which is a fragrance  that we've carried for, I'm not kidding you,   like probably 20 years for good reason. It's a  fantastic fruity fragrance that is, yes, kind of   a straight up green gorgeous mango. So think like  jungle mango mixed with our coconut citrus sorbet.   And coconut citrus sorbet is one of our newer  fragrances. And it adds that bright note that   you get in the citrus. It also adds this gorgeous  warm toasted coconut. This is like exotic fruit   beach in a blend. I'm doing point4 ounces of each  of these. And then I'm going to do a full 1 oz of   my papaya extract. And this papaya extract is in  fractionated coconut oil, which is also great for   skin. So keep that in mind if you're going to  substitute a different extract. No water-based   extracts. You want a full oilbased extract. So 04  ounces of this coconut citrus sorbet. I can smell   it from here and it makes me so happy. And then 4  ounces of this mango. Mango. When you think about   this usage rate and you're like, well, that  doesn't seem like very much. Like this is a   pretty big batch. Like this is like 40 ounces. Why  are you only using8 ounces of this product? The   reason is is because like we don't want this to be  a perfume. We want it to give a lightly gorgeous   scented warm kind of tropical like feeling. You  don't want to like have your fragrance announce   yourself 10 feet before you get into a room when  you're just doing a body butter. So that's why   the usage rate on that. So that's something to  really consider when you're thinking about how   you want to be scenting your body butters. adding  the whole full ounce of papaya extract. And now   what I have is basically kind of a nice little  oil slick on top and my butter is down below.   And what I'm going to do is just gently and slowly  kind of get these incorporated in. But I'm going   to kind of just incorporate them in by hand really  quick because if I turn on my beers, the oil slick   on top has a little bit of a tendency to go all  over the place. So now that this is kind of hand   stirred in, going to mix all this in again.  And then we're going to do the final with the   2 oz of arrow root powder to help absorb that  greasiness and a little bit of optional color. All right. So now final step. We're just  going to incorporate in that 2 oz of arrow   root powder. And I'm just going to get that  weighed out in a separate container. Then we   just want a light touch of color. We are  not trying to dye anyone's skin here. So,   we're just going to go with 1/4 of a  teaspoon for this entire 40 oz batch. And so,   that's just by volume. And it's just an even one.  We're just going to put that right in there. And   then we're going to put the arrow root powder  in. But just like we did with that oil slick,   we are going to hand mix because oh my goodness,  if you turn this on with all this powder on top,   poof, poof, poof, everywhere. So, we're  hand mixing this in until it is somewhat   lightly incorporated before we turn our hand  blender on or our beater is on. So, now that   this is in a little bit better and it's fully  tamped down, now I will turn my hand mixer on. So now it's like do a quick visual inspection  like is the orange all the way down to the   bottom? That's kind of your first visual clue  that you didn't mix fully if the orange hasn't   gone all the way to the bottom. It has. So now  it's time to either scoop these into the jars or   make yourself a little crazy by piping them cuz  it's so cute. All right you guys. So if you want   to add more micica if you're like this looks like  a beautiful sherbet and by the way it looks so   cute with your outfit. But if this looks a little  light to you, you can add more micica. Remember,   you can't ever take it out. So, just add another  1/4 teaspoon. Do not go crazy with this. This is   a great consistency to do some piping. I'm going  to take this and just honestly, there's no good   way to get around this. It's just kind of a messy  process. You just put it in, you tamp it down, and   then you do it again and again until this piping  bag is full. And then you can hand pipe these   in. Like I said, it looks really pretty. It is so  satisfying to watch. It's super satisfying to do.   But I wanted to show you both options so you  could kind of see how to do this and what you're   working with. Or you can also take a spoon that  you've dipped in a little bit of rubbing alcohol   or made sure is uh totally contaminant free and  you just take it and you just literally scoop in,   tamp down, scoop in, tamp down. And just do  that until it's totally full. And then it is   ready to cap, give away, sell, use yourself. No  curing time, nothing to wait. It's a luxurious,   wonderful product that everyone you give it to is  going to love. We did a lot of test batches while   we were doing all the different kind of ratios  for you. Rave reviews from everyone. The quality   of the ingredients is so high, so skinloving, so  easy to make. So, I'd love to hear what you want   me to make next for this channel. So, tell me down  below. Give the video a thumbs up. Subscribe to   the channel so you're notified every time we come  out with a new video. And of course, when you're   making stuff and posting it to social media,  hashtagbrambleon so we can see it at Brambleberry,   but also your fellow makers can see it. Everybody  loves to get inspired by what other people   are doing. So until next time everyone, happy  crafting, happy making, and all the things. Bye.