Exploring the facility where scientists simulate massive ocean waves

Hello everyone and welcome back to the Fluctus channel. Being in the delta of the Rhine, Maas and Scheldt rivers, the Netherlands has had a historical relationship with water. This added to the fact that the country has a low elevation means that approximately two-thirds of its surface is vulnerable to flooding. Such conditions have encouraged the Dutch to combat these disasters and adapt to the surrounding environment to create a safe environment for the population these works include dams locks ramparts and storm barriers which were built over the years in government projects such as Delta works and its objective of protecting the southwest of the country this constant battle has caused the creation of several companies and research centers which develop and implement solutions that improve water management one of those centers is Deltares, an independent institute for applied research in the field of water and subsurface. Works done by this centre have aided the design of projects regarding flooding protection throughout the Netherlands. It is a pioneer in developing, distributing and applying knowledge to address challenges in the physical planning, design and management of deltas, coastal zones and vulnerable river basins. Deltares has different facilities that allow them to study the behavior of floods and the causes and consequences of these events. Places like the Delta Flume Test Facility are used to study the effect of extreme waves on dikes, dunes, breakwaters, and other flood defenses on a real scale. It consists of a 1,000-foot artificial flume channel connected to a piston-type vertical waveboard. This system can simulate the variation between large and small waves by a software controlled piston motion and directly using wave measurements within the flume portion section is about 29 feet and is used to model large embankments while it's combined with a shallower section for modeling gentle foreshores such depth is required to generate individual waves up to 15 feet high which cannot be generated anywhere in the world with a With a long set of sensors, the center can measure the wave's height, pressure and velocities. Additionally, laser scanners and stereo matching of video images are used to get information about the deformation of the model barriers, breakwaters and bed protections. This is necessary to ensure those structures work in any conditions, especially during a critical event. In addition, the channel is equipped with an active reflection compensation system, which absorbs the reflected waves that might disturb the readings on the sensors. These systems are integrated with software, developed by Deltares in collaboration with the University of Delft, including Delft 3D, Sobic, and SWAN, which are used worldwide for water and environmental management. Another objective of the research center is to study the effect that plants, like the salt marsh vegetation, have on the behavior of waves. Overgrown with seaweed and a blue-gray grass species, salt marshes can make an important contribution to the dike's flood defense. They reduce the wave load on the dike and retain silt, which creates more land in front of the wall, which grows along with sea level rise. For this, a total of 2,900 square feet of soil were excavated from the outer dike salt marsh east of Friedland and placed in the flume to simulate the environment as close as possible. Wind machines and special lights over the vegetation aid in getting closer to the conditions of the salt marsh and keeping the vegetation healthy. So we placed all these blocks in front of a dike and we want to see how this type of vegetation can dampen the waves before they reach the dike. These studies about the interaction between these plants and marine currents and waves have demonstrated their importance in protecting inland regions and providing balance in the ecosystem. This occurs similarly to mangroves, which play a vital role in protecting tropical coastal areas. They have long roots that hold a lot of sediment and aid in dampening waves. Mangrove forests serve as the complex salt filtration system, which allows them to resist saltwater immersion. Likewise, ecosystems such as coral reefs act as a buffer for ocean currents and the formation of destructive waves. The shape and texture of the reef itself function as a wave breaker, attenuating the impact of the waves during storms. Both mangroves and coral reefs reduce the probability of serious damage during extreme events, such as hurricanes or tsunamis, but also contribute to processes such as carbon sequestration and sedimentation control. This benefits both the animal species in the area and the local communities that obtain fertile land to produce products, bringing an economic boost to the population. In addition, such ecosystems can bring the ecological tourism industry that allows visitors to be informed about these ecosystems and generate significant revenue. Although efforts to restore these natural barriers are increasing many regions do not benefit from such protection around them this is why artificial barriers like the tetrapods are placed on several beaches all over the globe those concrete structures act as wave dissipating elements to prevent erosion they reduce the force of the waves by making the water pass through them rather than against them tetrapods are produced by casting a concrete mix inside a tetrahedral pod made of steel or reinforced fiberglass the molds are shaken to ensure the structure is filled and then the concrete is cured to ensure the concrete reaches its desired strength and durability designs such as tetrapods are among the many solutions developed to mitigate the impact of waves and coastal erosion this problem concerns all populated coastal areas especially during these times when ocean levels are rising and there has been an increase in the number of high impact storms advances in technology have allowed innovative methods to be implemented for specific cases or to try to protect a wide spectrum of problems that go beyond erosion seawalls made from materials such as concrete steel or rock are the most common method associated with coastal protection they absorb and deflect the energy of waves preventing damage to the shoreline an An impressive example is the Tokyo seawall, which rises to 20 feet high, surrounds low coastal areas, and is complemented by a system of floodgates and inland locks. Another technology implemented as a method of coastal protection is the returning wave blocks, which apart from reducing the energy of the waves by redirecting them, also prevents the waves from overtopping the structures, reducing the risk of flooding. Also, several protection measures have focused on reducing wave energy by placing it underwater, similar to how a coral reef would act. These submerged breakwaters slow down water movement and encourage sediment deposition, which can help build up the beach and counteract erosion. Lately, return wave blocks have had improvements in design and implementation, such as the blocks used off the coast of Korea. These blocks have a hollow structure, which allows water and sand to enter and exit, reducing the force of the passing wave while maintaining the structural integrity of the block. Such a design also keeps the sediment balanced on the beach by reducing the loss of sand and preserving the beach's width. In addition to this method, Korea has implemented underwater tie cells around its most vulnerable coasts. These structures act similar to other submerged barriers, but with the difference of having a flat structure that distributes gravity evenly. This gives the system more stability and durability, making it cost-efficient without requiring frequent repairs or replacements. They come with a penetration and tying unit, which gives them more resistance to earthquakes and strong waves. Its design also allows the formation of fish habitats, which minimize any disruption in the environment, promoting a healthy marine ecosystem. Research and development of better methodologies to prevent flooding and coastal erosion are crucial for the safety of the communities in those regions. These innovations are essential for safeguarding lives and property. And they also help us understand and protect the environment around us. That's the end of this video. I hope you enjoyed it. 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