The Waves That Shape Us: A Love Letter to a Puerto Rican Slab
This wave shaped me. It shaped the surfers who came before me, and now it's shaping a new generation of Puerto Rican chargers. This is my love letter to it, told through a very special swell of 3 straight days of pumping surf.
I first paddled out at this slab when I was 15 and it’s been quite a battle since. Lots of lessons. Lots of wipeouts. This wave has taught me so much about surfing, respect, and more about myself than I care to know. On this swell, I got to watch the guys who inspired me and the young crew coming up, surf it side by side, and I knew I wanted to do something special with the footage and photos. So this video accompanies an article I wrote in the latest Surfers Journal.
This one's close to my heart. Thanks for watching, reading, supporting print and lesser known surfers 🇵🇷
Surfers:
Mauro Diaz
Mason Ho
Mia Calderon
Carlo Cabrero
Otto Flores
Wesley Toth
Sage Katz
Max Torres
Robbie Rickard
Danny Marrero
Manny Valentin
Seba Llompart
Christian Rivera
Dylan Graves (me)
Filmed by:
Dave Malcolm
@JorgitoRivera
Jerry Molina
Ibrahim Morales
Kiki Roettger
Edited by:
Casual Slice Inc. (me haha)
Thumbnail photo by @JorgitoRivera
Music:
(Courtesy of Epidemic Sound)
Song 1
Razor by OTE
Song 2
Connective Inteligence by Dip Diet
Song 3
2am in PR by Ray Ali
Song 4
Mi Boricua by El Equipo Del Norte
0:00 Intro
1:47 Day 1
4:04 Wave Breakdown
6:24 The next generation
8:38 History
9:30 Day 3
13:23 Credits

