Hiking Mt Kelimutu: Indonesia’s Mysterious Colour-Changing Volcano

In the heart of Flores, Indonesia, an ancient volcano guards a mystery that no one has fully solved. Mount Kelimutu, an ancient volcano with three crater lakes that change colour without warning. Is it science? Is it spirit? Some say it's volcanic chemistry at work, while others believe the lake holds the souls of the dead. We hike to the summit to witness the mystery for ourselves. This is Kelimutu, Indonesia's most mysterious volcano. But first, how did we get here? To reach Flores, we first flew from Sydney, Australia to Bali and then boarded a short one-hour flight to Labuan Bajo on the northwest coast. Good morning, it's Lydia and Chris here from the Roving Valleys and welcome to Flores. We're in Labuan Bajo this morning. We've been here for a few days so if you haven't seen our last video then check that one out. But today we're heading to the south part of Flores. We're flying down to Ende and then we're heading up into the mountains to Mount Kelimutu which is a series of three volcanic lakes which change colour so it's exciting, a bit of a hike. And we hope we get good weather so we can really show it off in all its glory. Yep, but for now we're about to check out of our hotel and head to the airport so why don't you come join us. Our wings air flight in the twin-engine propeller plane was a bit noisy, a little bumpy and honestly pretty hot, but it added to the sense of adventure. We felt like Indiana Jones flying off to some remote jungle outpost. The 200 kilometre journey from Labuan Bajo to Ende took about an hour, but what it lacked in comfort it made up for in scenery. The aerial views over Flores were stunning, none more so than the dramatic descent into Ende with the coastline and the mountains unfolding beneath us. To get to Mount Kelimutu you can take a taxi, hire a private car or even rent a motorbike. We hopped into a minivan joining a small group tour of Flores, but more on that in the next video. Ende is a regional capital and one of the main administrative centres of Flores. As we left town the urban lowlands gradually gave way to rolling hills and lush valleys, with mountain streams, small colourful villages and picturesque terraced rice fields. Our destination for today was Moni, a small mountain village sitting in the shadow of Mount Kelimutu, and the main base for visitors wanting to explore the volcano. Our accommodation, Kelimutu Crater Lakes Echo Lodge, is a beautiful retreat set amongst lush gardens, rice paddies and a babbling river. The hour and a half drive to Moni was as scenic as they come, but as we climbed higher and daylight began to fade, the mountain mist rolled in, gradually hiding the views. By the time we reached the Echo Lodge, darkness had already fallen. Welcome to Kelimutu. We're in the Echo Lodge here. We've just arrived after a very long windy trip up the mountain, but we're finally here. It's been a long day. We did have our flight delayed for about an hour and a bit, I suppose two hours. Three hours. Three hours. I think we were supposed to leave at 10.30. We ended up leaving at 1.20 or a bit later. So it's been a very long day and we're looking forward to a sunrise walk to the craters, the volcanic craters here in Mount Kelimutu. So I think we'll have an early night tonight. After waking up at 4am, the steep and windy drive from Moni to the Kelimutu National Park car park took just over half an hour, giving us plenty of time to hike the 30-minute trail to the summit before sunrise. Turn your light on. The trail begins right at the car park, heading gently uphill through the cool mountain air and low mist. The path is paved and includes proper stairs, making the hike safe and reasonably easy, even by torchlight. The trail winds between craters and leads up to a summit viewpoint perched high on the rim, where we were hoping to catch spectacular views of the three crater lakes. But what colour they'll be on any given day is anyone's guess. These mysterious lakes are famous for changing colour unpredictably. Turquoise, green, black and sometimes even red or milky white. In 2016 alone, the lakes reportedly changed colour six times. What's even more fascinating is that each lake changes colour independently of the others. Scientists believe these colour shifts are caused by volcanic gases bubbling up from vents beneath the surface. As those gases mix with mineral-rich waters, they trigger chemical reactions that alter the colour. Each lake is fed by a different vent, and has its own unique mineral composition, so the process is different in each one. It's an extremely rare geological phenomenon, and no one can fully predict when or how the colours will shift next. Oh, there you are! All I see is the light! I see the light! Hopefully, when we get up to the top, the clouds will lift, and we'll see the volcano. That's the plan. We can't see the volcanic lakes, but we can sure smell them. They're there somewhere. Hopefully, sometime that fog will rise. Please part the clouds when I get up there, and look, the heavens have answered. Ta-da! We made it! While scientists attempt to explain the mystery of the colour-changing lakes, the local Leo people have a different and far more spiritual explanation. These lakes are said to be the final resting place for the souls of the dead. At Kelimutu, souls are divided according to age and character. The deep blue lake behind us is called Tiwuata Mbupu. This calm, quiet lake is where the spirits of the elderly are laid to rest. In front of us, the milky blue lake closest to the viewpoint is Tiwu Nuamuri Kauwhai, home to the souls of the young. And the darker lake further from us is Tiwuata Polo, believed to hold the souls of those who led troubled or wicked lives. And here comes the cloud returning again. The heavens parted for a brief moment. It's beautiful. For the Leo people, this is a sacred place, and on the trek back to the car park, we pass the ceremonial site where they hold the Patikadua Bapuata Mata ritual each August. Here, offerings of food, drink and tobacco are made to honour the ancestral spirits believed to dwell in the crater lakes. Accompanied by prayers for good health, harmony and a good harvest. Thanks for joining us on our journey to Mount Kelimutu. It's a truly incredible place and an absolute must-see if you're ever visiting Flores. Have you ever been that close to an active volcano before? If so, let us know in the comments where you went. We'd love to hear about it. If you enjoyed the video, don't forget to give us a thumbs up. And if you haven't subscribed yet, make sure you do, because we still have plenty more exploring to do here in Flores. Until next time, it's bye for now.