**MY TOMMI MAKINEN EVO** GET’S THE GEOBYLUKE ALIGNMENT!
Sep 21, 2026 #geobyluke
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AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI GeneratedLuke performs a wheel alignment on his Mitsubishi Evo using a Hunter's machine. After discovering significant issues—particularly severe toe-out and nearly two degrees of camber on the rear right wheel—he adjusts the vehicle to a balanced specification between OEM and performance settings to improve handling and stability.
What's going on everybody welcome back to Geo by Luke. Today we're going to be taking the Evo down
to the garage and I'm going to check the wheel alignment. We're going to do a before and after
and I'm going to show you guys how I do it. So I'm very very interested to see if the car is in
or out of tolerance. Don't get me wrong the car handles good but once I'm done I'm pretty sure
it's going to handle 10 times better. But before we go anywhere I just want to say this video is
sponsored by Bespoke Blinds.
Mate that is too sick. Fits perfect as well. So behind me we've got the Madis blind. Let me just
bring it down with the remote control. Fully electric. Wait for it to come down. As you can
it says Geo by Luke Reviews with my S15. They've done me a custom one-off blind. Absolutely crazy.
So shout out to Bespoke Blinds. Now let's get into the video. Let's go.
All right so boom we're going to do the alignment on the Evo. I was driving it the other day and
it handles sick but it just doesn't feel right and since I've had it I've never had the alignment
checked. So I think what we'll do is get it up on the ramp now show you guys before and after
and yeah we'll just go from there really. So the first thing we do is we write in the make
and model on the computer. We're using a Hunter's machine which is probably the best of the best.
So yeah let me fill in the specs right now. And on a car like this I know already because the chassis
I know the chassis number on this but if it was a different car then you go by the chassis number.
So this is CP9. So now what we've got is we've got the specs of what the car should be.
Obviously we got all the correct information here and now we've got the specs. So yeah
all right cool. So the next stage is to lift the car up on the ramp and do the tyre pressures. So
yeah first thing you do when you do a wheel alignment is you always check the tyre pressures.
You have to make sure they're in at the right spec and also tyres. You've got to make sure
the tyres are good. These are snow tyres so allow it but they're decent. The tread's there
and that should be fine. What I've done is I've chocked the back wheels in as well so the car
will stop rolling because it has to have the handbrake down. So yeah let's get these pads
on. This is the passenger side front. That's it. Put them on like that. Tighten it up. You get
your little safety hook. Just put it behind so if it does fall it doesn't hit the ground. Now
we have to install the brake pedal which is over here. So now install the brake pedal.
Since owning it I haven't done the geo so it's going to be really interesting to see whether
it's out or not. Let's see what the results are saying. Okay cool so look we've got an issue with
the back right. Wow oh my god look how much the back wheel is toeing out. Oi guys that's crazy
man. Look how much that's toeing out. It shouldn't be like that innit. So we need to try and get that
into the green and that into the green as well. Even that side's in the green but I'm not happy
with that. I want that arrow in the middle and I want that in the middle as well. So
yeah let's get it adjusted and see what's going on from there. Up here we've got this is your
camber adjustment. The one that sits with the shock. So this one here does camber. So if I
move these the wheel will go like that. The one up here which is connected to the hub on this side
will be your rear toe adjustment and we need to adjust both of these because they're both
out on the machine. So firstly we'll spray a bit of WD-40 just to make sure that everything's good.
We'll spray the other side as well because we're going to be working there.
Lovely jubbly. Before we adjust anything what we need to do is we need to release the rear
we need to release the rear turntables. So that's up here. Pull these back.
That one and that side. All right cool so now we can adjust. So almost two degrees camber on the
back man. I can't believe that. All right so what I'm gonna do guys is I'm not gonna do like a mad
fast road alignment for this. I'm just gonna keep it nice and like not OEM but I'm not gonna
go extreme in it because you know I'm not really gonna be driving it like that. So now that the
alignment's done we've got to take it off the ramp. Take it all off. Take all off the pads
and everything. Get it off the ramp and then take it for a fat road test and see the difference.
So I'm actually gassed for this one. Let's go through this. On the back right we had
almost two degrees camber and a lot of tow out which is no good especially on a four-wheel drive
car. The front left was towing out so now we've got OEM spec tow at the front. At the back we've got
everything where it's meant to be. So yeah that's literally before and after so it's going to be a
big difference man. Can't wait to drive the car.

