How to grow carrots from seed to harvest step by step, including the best soil, watering, fertilizing, and harvesting tips for growing big, sweet carrots at home. In this complete carrot growing guide, I cover everything from choosing the right carrot varieties, when to plant in different climates (including warm climates like Florida), how to get better germination, prevent common carrot problems like splitting and pests, and how to harvest and store carrots for long-term use. This is a beginner-friendly guide that will help you grow healthy, productive carrot crops in your garden.
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This guide provides a comprehensive walkthrough for growing carrots, from selecting the right variety and preparing the soil to managing pests and harvesting. It emphasizes the importance of loose soil, consistent moisture during germination, and adjusting planting schedules based on local climate to avoid heat-induced bitterness.
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Hello gardeners! Welcome back to my channel. Today we're talking
all about growing carrots and how to grow them from tiny seeds to a bountiful
harvest. Carrots are one of the most rewarding
root crops to grow but they can be a little tricky
if you don't know what they need. In this video I'll guide you through everything
you need to know from choosing the right variety
to sowing the seeds and when to harvest. If you're new here, my name is Jera.
I've been gardening all of my life and I'm a professional seed and plant
nursery. I love to share my knowledge and teach others how to garden and grow food
so you've come to the right place if you want to improve your gardening
skills. First let's talk about carrot varieties.
There are so many cultivars to choose from each with its own unique
characteristics. First we have the Nantes types if I'm
saying that correctly and this is the classic cylindrical
sweet carrot perfect for fresh eating. Then we have the Chantenay carrots which
are short and stubby great for growing in heavy compacted or clay soils.
The cultivar called Danvers is pretty universal and grows well in most
soil types. Imperator carrots are long and slender.
This is the most common type found at the grocery store. There are also some
carrot varieties said to be more heat tolerant. This includes Corota, Solar
Yellow, and any of the purple or black carrot
varieties like Cosmic Purple. When choosing a variety think about your
soil type, growing conditions, and how you plan to use the carrots.
Now that you have your seeds picked out let's talk about the correct time of
year to sow and grow your carrots. General
guidelines say to direct sow the seeds in early spring as soon as the soil can
be worked or in late summer for a fall harvest.
However in warmer climates, those that don't get snow during the
winter, the timing of when to sow carrot seeds is
very different. The goal is to grow carrots during the coolest
parts of your year. Harvest it all out before the heat returns in spring and
summer. High heat conditions stunt carrot growth
and make the roots taste bitter. Start direct sowing the heat tolerant
varieties in September but wait until October to direct sow the
regular types. You can keep sowing seeds all the way to about January or
February depending on where you're located
just to ensure you harvest everything before it starts getting too hot again
which is when days are like over 85 degrees Fahrenheit and it takes about
four months from seed to harvest so plan that accordingly.
Carrots require full sun, even a Florida full sun,
to harness enough energy from the sun to grow those nice big roots.
Besides this fact, the next most important thing
is that the soil is loose and while draining. If the soil has lots of rocks
or pieces of wood or mulch, it will cause the carrot root to split
instead of growing nice and straight. Loose soil helps the root expand so it
grows bigger as well. If you're filling raised beds for the
first time then choose a nice loose garden soil mix or make your own by
mixing equal parts of sifted compost, peat moss, or coco coir, sand, and
perlite or vermiculite in a wheelbarrow. Add a few handfuls of a balanced
granular fertilizer and blood meal to give the carrots an initial boost. Then
dump the soil to fill your raised beds. When growing standard carrots you want
the garden bed or soil to have a depth of at least eight inches so the roots
have room to grow downwards and not hit the bottom.
Carrots don't transplant well so grow them by direct sowing the seeds
only. Okay, so it's time for me to sow seeds for carrots and I picked a full
sun spot in my garden. This season I'm growing them in the
ground so I just have to add a few amendments.
I like to add blood meal into the soil before planting because it is high in
nitrogen and will help the carrot seedlings take off
and put on lots of leafy green growth. Leaf growth is the most important thing
during the early stages. Lots of leaves mean the plants can
harness more energy from the sun to grow bigger roots.
I also add in a lot of bone meal to increase phosphorus amounts.
This nutrient is responsible for production of high quality large roots.
Lastly, I add worm castings to improve the texture of my soil and make it
fluffier. You can also add things like potting mix or peat moss but I really
like worm castings because it feeds the microorganisms in the soil
that make it harder for things like root not nematodes to take hold.
I use it a lot all over my garden as a soil amendment but if your soil is
already fluffy then you can skip this ingredient.
I'm following square foot gardening guidelines which says you can plant
nine carrots per square foot. I use a straight stick or
piece of bamboo to press down and make rows out of squares that are one foot by
one foot so I can space them properly. Then I make three rows of three little
indents or depressions in each square so I know where to place the seeds.
I gently sprinkle the seeds, pat them down and add just enough soil to cover
the seeds. Then gently water them in with your
water hose. Carrot seeds need to stay moist for about the first 10 days in
order to get them to germinate. Letting the seeds in the soil dry out is
probably the number one cause of poor germination.
I water the soil every day and get good germination in about 7 to 14 days.
If you can't water it every day put a flat piece of wood over the surface
after watering to lock in the moisture. Take it off once things have started to
germinate. Once the seedlings have two to three leaves
it is time to thin them out. This is crucial so the roots have room to expand
horizontally. Thin out the seedlings so they're about
three inches apart. It is important to regularly fertilize carrots if you want
them to produce huge carrot roots at harvest time. After six
weeks of growth I add fertilizer but this time with
something that has higher amounts of potassium
and phosphorus instead of nitrogen because those two nutrients support root
growth and development. For this I'm using AgriFive fruit and
vegetable liquid fertilizer that I pour into a hose and fertilizer
attachment. It automatically mixes the fertilizer with the water at whatever
ratio I select. This saves me a lot of time running back
and forth to mix fertilizer and water together in a watering can.
I fertilize my carrot patch with this solution every
three weeks or so until harvest time. Now that the carrots are growing
in your garden let's discuss some care tips. Check your carrots
every day for signs of pests and diseases. The sooner you treat for it the
better. If you notice little flies hovering above
your carrot patch it could be carrot rust flies. They lay eggs near the
roots and the larvae burrow into the carrots.
A floating row cover can help prevent this. Also set up yellow sticky traps to
catch the adults. Aphids can be a problem as well. They
like to suck the juices out of tender new leafy growth.
I notice aphids most during the springtime. A strong spray of water to
blast them off your plants or neem oil spray can keep them under control.
In areas that are humid or rainy powdery mildew can spread which is a
fungal disease. Proper plant spacing will help ensure
better airflow to reduce the incidence of this disease and many
others. But if your carrots get it spray with one cup of three percent
hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water every
three days or so until you notice the spread of the disease has stopped.
Finally allow the soil to dry out just a little bit in between watering.
If the soil is too wet the roots will rot and there is nothing
you can do to fix that. So how do you know when your carrots are ready to
harvest? Most seed packets will say they're ready in about 90 days for the
standard size varieties or around 60 days for the little
miniature kind like the small round Parisian carrots. However I like to leave
mine a whole additional four weeks to make sure
they're nice big size carrots and the flavor is sweet. If harvested too early
the carrots have not developed enough sugars yet and have
this gross bitter soapy flavor. You'll notice the tops of the roots poking
out of the soil. Brush the soil away from the top to see
how wide the carrot is. If it's over one and a half to two inches
wide then it probably is ready. Pull one just to check it first. Loosen
the soil around the roots with a garden fork or your hands
then gently pull them out by the tops. Be careful not to snap the roots.
If it's a nice long root with sweet flavor then most likely the rest are
ready too. Go ahead and harvest any others that you
think might be done. If some are still too small
leave them for a few more weeks and check again. All right so this one looks
pretty good nice and big your standard carrot however I like to test it first
so I'm going to clean this off slice into it take a little bite and
make sure that it has sweet flavor because if it still has a bitter flavor
then it is not ready and most likely all of these in this patch are also not
ready so I'll be right back after cleaning this up and slicing it in the
kitchen. All right so I peeled that carrot up and sliced it in half just to
give it a taste test so let's see oh yeah that's a good carrot
nice and sweet so most likely the rest of them
are also ready for harvest so I'm going to start testing them all out and
pulling out what I see. All right so let's pull this one out oh
another nice one this one is Kuroda. This is a very popular Japanese
heirloom carrot variety it tends to get a little
fat and blocky with a tapered root end but also very good producer especially
if you're in a hot climate. Here's another Kuroda one look at how
big this is and it's poking out of the soil so let's harvest this one
oh nice all right let me check my Cosmic Purples. Wow this one is so pretty
so Cosmic Purple the skin is like a deep
fuchsia burgundy color more than like purple in my opinion but really really
pretty but the inside is bright orange so let
me check here I have some Solar Yellows oh look at that
nice and in my opinion I feel like the yellow carrots
are the sweetest for whatever reason in my opinion that's what I think
and it's good to remove you know the big ones here and there harvest as needed so
you don't have like a ton of carrots all at once and don't know what to do with
them all and allow the rest of them to remain and kind of size up and then
continue to harvest more just so again you're not stuck with like
a whole bunch of them at once. All right so that looks like all of the carrots
that are ready today at the four month mark and I stress the
four month mark thing because a lot of home gardeners get frustrated when their
veggies are not as big as they were expecting
in the time frame that's listed you know on seed packets and things like
that. Seed packet maturity dates are based on
commercial farms and growing in ideal conditions
so most likely yeah a commercial farm that's a professional at growing carrots
will get them to size up and be ready at that three month mark range but for
a home gardener we are not growing in ideal conditions we're not professionals
we're not exactly perfect so don't be too hard on
yourself when your veggies are not sized up or ready for harvest in x
amount of days as indicated on the packages just let them sit there a
little bit longer now let's talk about storing your carrots if you plan to use
them right away it's totally fine to wash off the dirt
and store them in a breathable bag in the refrigerator for about up to a month
for long-term storage do not wash them off because that will introduce moisture
which will cause them to go bad sooner just brush off the excess dirt and trim
the greens off to prevent moisture loss which will make the roots go soft store
the carrots in a box of damp sand or sawdust in a cool dark and humid place
like a root cellar or basement they can last several months this way you
can also freeze carrots just blanch them first to retain their
color and texture i have a few carrot recipes
over on my second youtube channel called jarrah's fresh kitchen if you need some
ideas on what to do with all these carrots one of them is my mom's carrot
cake recipe and the other is my roasted carrots served over a bed of
spiced yogurt and there you have it a complete guide
to growing carrots from seed all the way to harvest whether you're growing
classic orange varieties or experimenting with colorful ones carrots
are such a rewarding crop to have in your garden
if you found this video helpful please give it a big thumbs up and consider
subscribing for more gardening tips and let me know in the comments which
carrot varieties you're excited to try growing
also if you want to try growing the same carrots that i grow here in my garden
you can find seeds on my website jarrahsgarden.com
thank you so much for watching and happy gardening