Want to bring the casino home? In this quick tutorial, I will show you how to build a fully custom Digital Roulette Wheel combining the power of an ESP32-C3 Super Mini microcontroller and CD4017 CMOS decade counters!
Featuring 3D-printed parts (designed in Microsoft 3D Builder and printed on a Bambu Lab A1), hand-painted gold finishes, wireless monitoring capabilities, and realistic slow-down LED cycling animations, this is the ultimate DIY electronics project.
Watch the full build process - from PCB soldering and wiring to 3D printing and assembly - and level up your maker skills today!
This project demonstrates the creation of a digital roulette wheel using an ESP32-C3 super mini microcontroller and a CD4017 CMOS counter. The device features a 3D-printed housing and a realistic slowing-down animation that stops on a random result when a push-button is released.
Hi everyone, today I'm going to show you guys how I made a digital roulette wheel
by combining the ESP32-C3 super mini microcontroller with the classic CD4017 CMOS ticket counter.
When the button is pressed, the ESP32 sends clock pulse to the CD4017 IC, causing the LEDs to cycle.
Releasing the button triggers a realistic slowing down effect until it stops on a random result and
Using Microsoft 3D Builder, I designed the 3D model of this project.
The design consists of three parts, the top section, which holds all the LEDs,
the bottom section, which contains all the electronic components, and a small block,
which houses a blue Wi-Fi indicator LED, a battery charging module, an SPDT on-off switch,
plus holes for the antenna cable and the push-button switch.
I sliced the model in Bamboo Studio and printed it out using my new Bamboo A1 printer.
Trust me, there is a lot that is going on with this project.
Hardware design, Arduino coding, PHP, databases, 3D design and printing, and more.
Using acrylic colors, I painted the body of the project.
The gold finish really elevated the print's appearance.
After the paint dried, I installed all the LEDs into the top section
and soldered their negative legs together in pairs of 10.
Let's start by soldering all the resistances to the board, followed by all the transistors.
Because I take extra care of my ICs and microcontrollers, I never solder them directly
to the board. For ICs, I always use IC bases, and if a base is not available, I use female pin
headers. To power the board, we need to integrate the charging module and some additional components.
I began by installing the SPDT switch, followed by the blue Wi-Fi indicator LED.
Then, I superglued the world's smallest battery charging module to the block
and secured it using this small white block.
Finally, I superglued the charging indicator as per the on-screen circuit diagram.
The remaining two holes accommodate the antenna and the push-button switch.
Finally, once all the components were in place,
I glued the plastic block into the grove at the bottom of the base.
In my setup, I am powering everything with a 3.7V rechargeable battery. However, if you prefer,
you can solder either a 220V to 5V step-down converter or a USB cable.
So, this is how the board looks like after I finish soldering all the wires that will
connect to the LEDs. For LEDs 1 through 10, use common ground 2. For LEDs 11 through 20,
use common ground 1. When soldering the LEDs to the board, be sure to solder them in the
correct order to avoid mismatching the physical LED number with what the code sends to the server.
Follow the on-screen instructions for the correct order.
Once everything is in place, all that is left is to glue the bottom bit to the top bit.
That's it. As simple as that.
