Portugal’s Douro River Cruise - Port Wine, Porto and Timeless Scenery

Water flowing from its source in Spain comes alive on its Portuguese banks, hundreds of years of farming on the sides of mountains, immeasurable wealth, and an awe-inspiring world heritage. Dream Cruises takes us along Portugal's sinuous River of Gold. Welcome to the River Douro. Sailing the Vasco da Gama, we will witness the secrets behind the making of the world-famous port wine. It is along the Douro that the fruit travels to its final destination to be transformed into the precious nectar that has been popular since antiquity. This cruise along the quiet river with the fabulous shores will bring us upstream to the high valley of Pinhal, to come slowly back down along our route to return to the city of Porto. We embark on our trip in Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal, after its capital, Lisbon. Just a quick look and we understand the importance the river holds for the two shores. On the right bank, Porto is the commercial economic hub. On the left, Vila Nova da Gaia is its precious ally. Between the two, the Douro is the main artery at the heart of this inseparable geographical region. This trio has always shaped the history of the region, making it a thriving economic success, thanks especially to the wine trade. A Portuguese proverb summarizes the economic boom of Porto vis-à-vis its capital as, while Porto works, Lisbon gets the money. Port is one of the most valuable treasures of the region. But before tasting the sublime nectar, let's get back on board the Douro to fully grasp the importance of this river that transports the raw material, as well as the expertise of the winemakers who are further east, near the Spanish border. On our way back, we will stop in the city and really appreciate the richness and complexity of Port wines. Even if Port can be enjoyed at any time of the day, connoisseurs save the best bottles for the end of the meal. Traveling as the grapes do, tasting can only be better. Preparations for departure are done. The Vasco da Gama is now ready to sail the Douro. Once inside, passengers go to the lounge on the middle deck for the usual introductory presentation. The Vasco da Gama is a small 75-meter ship with 25 crew members. This four-star ship has three decks, a large dining room, a bar complete with a dance floor and 71 double cabins with panoramic views. Here, the river and its banks are the true stars of the cruise. The ship's enormous windows and its upper deck will guarantee that no part of the passing scenery will be missed. Let's raise our glasses to the Douro river cruise. This morning, the ship sails briskly toward its first stop, Regois. But before even entering the city, an architectural masterpiece appears before us. The Douro flows from its source in the high mountains of Spain, rising over 2,000 meters. To climb the river, five dams and their locks make the ship's passage easier. Before us, the most impressive of all, not to mention the highest in all of Europe, the Carapatello Lock. At 36 meters high and 12 meters wide, the water elevator holds the ship between its concrete walls. Mere centimeters separate the hull from the walls. The upper deck is the best place to witness this feat of engineering. In just a few minutes, water fills the concrete space, raising the Vasco da Gama the 36 meters needed to continue its journey along the Douro. It is an impressive sight. At the top, the doors of the lock open, the concrete disappears, and the ship is once again on its way. Nature reclaims its place. The Douro is once again an inviting river with inspiring banks. We are coming to the capital of the Douro Valley, Peso da Regua. Located on the right bank, this community of 18,000 has been making its living from the wine industry for many years. It is also here where we will find the headquarters for the Port Wine Institute, which oversees the quality and quantity of wine made every year. Now we can do several things. We can venture into the rural regions to see the vineyards, or we can head toward Lamego and the Nossa Senhora dos Remedios, sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies Cathedral. This enormous Baroque sanctuary is a major pilgrimage site during the patron saint festivals that take place in early September. Many pilgrims come to climb the Great Staircase in the hopes that Our Lady of Remedies will hear their call and cure whatever ails them. On the landings, we can admire the mosaics. These porcelain tiles arranged to form pictures often tell biblical stories. In Portugal, the belief in God is very important. More than three quarters of Portuguese are Catholic, and nearly 6 million, about 50 percent of the country's population, are actively practicing. Unlike the rest of the world, religious belief is on the rise among young Portuguese. Outside the sanctuary, most of the works in the garden were designed by the architect like this impressive Baroque fountain made entirely of granite. In the middle of the fountain, a huge obelisk stands straight as an arrow. The site is surrounded by 18 statues that represent the kings and patriarchs of Judea. Here, the panoramic view is of the city of Lamego and the Douro Valley, the fiefdom of Porto. Back on the Vasco da Gama, the entire ship is fragrant with aromas wafting from the kitchens. Tonight we will dine on board. The chef and his team have prepared a sumptuous meal. For starters, a slice of foie gras accompanied with a brioche and spiced caramel. Cooking for 140 guests requires careful planning and great attention to detail. The chef and his team don't stint on this first course, setting the tone for the rest of the meal. For the main course, rack of veal served with baby vegetables and a stuffed baked potato, all topped with a creamy mushroom sauce. Hot dishes demand great coordination in the kitchen. One mistake could be catastrophic. Even though we are on a small cruise ship, the kitchens are on par with the finest restaurants. In fact, the work environment changes every day. Before dessert, the chef presents a delicacy from the Portuguese terroir, queso de serra da estrela, simply named the serra. Tonight it will be served in puff pastry over a mesclun salad with balsamic reduction. Serra is a washed rind soft cheese made from sheep's milk. It is very popular in the country. And finally, to end our meal, we are treated to baked Alaska. This dessert made of cake, ice cream and meringue is the perfect finish to our great feast. At dawn, we board the shuttle that will take us to Vila Real. The city is located roughly 30 kilometers north of Peso da Regua. This morning, we have an appointment in the royal city at the legendary Mateus Palace. Also known as Casa de Mateus, this palace with its granite casings, cornices and statues is a perfect example of the Baroque style. It was designed by Nicolao Nassoni, the same architect who designed the sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies Cathedral that we visited earlier. The palace is magnificent and, according to many, is considered to be one of the greatest examples of Baroque architecture in the country. This well-deserved notoriety can be attributed to two very important things. The label of the Mateus Rose wine, sold in countries around the world like France and Canada. And the magnificent gardens, worthy of Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland. The extremely well-preserved, centuries-old gardens are considered to be among the most beautiful in Portugal. There is a century-old garden of camellias. Monumental cedars. A granite reflecting pond in front of the house. Three ponds. And stunning geometric shapes carved in boxwood. For several centuries now, boxwood has been an indispensable element of French-style gardens, the most famous examples of which still reign at Versailles. Leaving the Mateus Palace Gardens, we head to the center of Vila Real for a quick bite before getting back on the road. Vila Real is a small municipality with just over 50,000 inhabitants. Over time, several noble families settled here, making Vila Real a prosperous city. It is time to meet up with our ship, which has continued its route along the Douro while we were sightseeing. Our next stop is Pinhão. We will take a coach for this short 50-minute trip. Aboard the Vasco da Gama, we continue along the Douro toward our point of departure, the city of Porto. Here we will explore the city and, more importantly, visit a famous winery. The area we are in is considered to be the mecca for the grapes used to make port. Here we find some of the country's most famous vineyards. According to leading experts, we are in the most beautiful wine region in the world. And the stunning landscape does nothing to dispel this reputation. The hills that rise on the banks of the Douro are covered with huge terraces, supported by stone walls. It is here that the precious vines are planted. Granite, slate and shale can be found under the thin layer of topsoil. The soil is so low in organic matter that the only things that can grow here are vines, olive and almond trees, and scrub. Wine production begins at harvest. Conditions here are tricky because neither machinery nor livestock can venture onto the terraces. The grapes must be hand-picked. Poor soil quality, mediocre yields, hand-picking. You would think most grape growers would be discouraged. But here, port is a religion. And there is no doubt as to its quality. The sweet nectar enjoys worldwide recognition. On the lochs, the ship once again enters the immense concrete container to await the aquatic lift. On deck, the more curious closely observe the handling of the ship and the movement of the lochs. While others observe their opponents instead. It is time to relax for the rest of the afternoon. It's like a floating day camp on the Douro. In keeping with the region we are in, the winners of the friendly competition are invited to sample the famous port, as well as the rosé that has made the Mateus Palace so famous. In the mid-deck lounge, the passenger's knowledge is put to the test. The challenge? To identify the national anthem. And so ends the national anthem game. The rest of the evening will be spent playing more games, but most importantly, sailing. There are still a few kilometers to go before we reach a critical point on our Douro cruise. After seeing the vineyards and following the grapes' progress down the river, tomorrow we will stop in Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia for a few days. Here is where the grapes end their trip, and we continue ours. It is another beautiful day in the Douro Valley. There are still a few kilometers to go before our next excursion, so how about a little exercise on the upper deck? The short workout is a great excuse to get some air and to move around a bit. You don't need to be a star athlete, as long as the will is there. Our morning stretches make us feel like we might actually touch the banks, they look so close. On-board shopping is a great alternative to exercise. Discover the famous Portuguese legend, the Rooster of Barcelos, the story of how a man was saved from being hanged by a roasted rooster's song. The ship makes its final, gentle approach. Here, although the banks and the houses are extremely beautiful, it is the bridges that connect the two banks that capture our attention. In all, six bridges cross the Douro in this area. The most famous and widely used bridge is the Dom Luis, engineered by one of Gustave Fell's proteges, Teofil Seyrig. Built at the end of the 19th century, this double-decker bridge is used by motorists and pedestrians on the lower deck, and by a metro line on the upper deck. The longest of the spans is 395 meters long, or roughly the length of four football fields, while the smaller deck is half that length. The ship has reached its destination. On the right bank, the city of Porto overlooks the river, while Vila Nova de Gaia sits on the opposite shore. Since our departure yesterday, we have traveled the Douro as if we ourselves were portmakers, from the vineyards all the way to the warehouses. In the past, these trips were not made by cruise ship, but rather by habelos. The small flat-bottomed boats with square sails were used to navigate the river for a long time, bringing the fruits of the earth to the city. Habelos are no longer used in the same way, having been replaced by huge trucks with stainless steel tanks. Today they are a part of the folk heritage and are used for friendly competitions once a year. The rest of the time, to the great joy of the tourists, they adorn the region's river banks. Once the precious liquid has arrived at Vila Nova de Gaia, the contents of the tanks are transferred to the winery's cellars. And now begins the fermentation, which according to recipe should last about two to three years. To stop the fermentation, a small amount of 77% proof alcohol is added to the wine. This step, called mutage, is crucial to the operation. Next comes aging. Depending on the quality and the process, port can age in barrels or in bottles. A tawny, also known as ruby, is aged for about five to seven years. A vintage tawny can be aged up to 40 years. These wines lose their ruby color and become a dark golden red. There are many other types of port, like the famous LBV, late bottle vintage. But whichever one you choose, white or red, the best port is the one you like the best. Especially since we're in the place where it's the star attraction. This morning we are going to stroll the streets of Porto. After traveling up the Duro, then following the route the grapes take down the river, and visiting a famous vintner, we are finally set to explore the country's second largest city. We catch a shuttle outside the ship. It's not far to the steps that will take us down into the city's ancient streets. Once more, we take in the beautiful banks of the Duro and the houses of old Porto. Legend has it that the Greeks were the first to settle the city on the left bank. Later, the Romans would move the Greek installations to the right bank to build a port that they called Portus Calle. Over the years, the port has grown into the city we know today. With a population of 240,000 and a large amount of commercial activity, Portugal's second largest city has become a European tourism leader. Its historic center, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, has everything you need for an enjoyable stay. Exploring Porto is relatively easy. There are many means of transportation suitable for tourists. Water shuttles, trams, trains and buses. Public transportation is efficient and the distances are relatively short. But in old Porto, walking is still the best way to get around, to soak in the rich history that is all around us. Right next to Liberty Place, the Clerics Tower is the architectural symbol of the city. The 76 meter high tower was built in 1750 by Nicolau Nassoni, Portugal's most famous architect. The tallest bell tower in the country was long used as a beacon to aid navigation. It is 225 steps to the top. Highlight is the city's stock exchange palace, the Palácio da Bolsa. This national treasure is a fine example of neoclassical architecture. It welcomes nearly 200,000 visitors every year. Construction began in 1842. The cornerstone was laid on the ruins of an old convent that had burned down. The building was designed by architect Joaquim da Costa Lima. It took nearly a decade to complete the building's shell. The interior features the inspired work of several artists. The magnificent stairway was completed in 1868. Built by Gonçalves Isusa, the stairs lead to a room decorated with the busts of local luminaries, carved by equally famous sculptors. The ceiling boasts a masterpiece by painter Antonio Romalho, considered one of Portugal's most important portrait artists. In a way, the palace is a massive group work by the greatest Portuguese artists of the mid-19th century. Together, they turned each room into a true work of art. The lavishly used fine materials, clean designs and paintings and sculptures decorating the rooms come together in a perfect artistic whole. One room stands out from the rest. Everyone agrees that the magnificent palace's crowning achievement is the Arabic room. If you only have a few minutes for a tour, this is the one room you absolutely cannot miss. The room is so beautiful, it serves as the official reception hall for the mayor of Porto. Many famous people have visited the room, including King Louis I of Portugal, Fidel Castro, Jacques Chirac and Margaret Thatcher. Before returning to the Vasco da Gama for the night, we enjoy some local culinary favorites. Considered one of the world's noble cuisines, with seafood as its star attraction, Portuguese dishes derive their characteristic flavors from garlic, oil, vinegar and wine. This exceptional local cuisine can be enjoyed at many small cafes and restaurants with outdoor patios. Our taste buds sated, we make our way back to the ship and indulge in some window shopping, Portuguese style. Numerous craftsmen display their wares right on the sidewalk. Luggage, straw hats and pretty brooches in the city's colors are offered up in the hope that we will take them home. It is now cocktail hour aboard the Vasco da Gama. A little later, the room will become a private dance floor, floating on the duro. It's the second last day of our cruise on the duro. This morning, the ship is still docked on the river's right bank. We will board a motorcoach to tour the region's backcountry. On the agenda, Guimaraes and Braga, two medieval towns boasting magnificent castles. Our first stop is the historic town of Guimaraes, considered the cradle of Portugal. Its historic center is perfectly preserved. Its medieval alleys and modern buildings coexist seamlessly. For nearly 400 years, from the 15th through 19th centuries, the town's modernization proceeded using tried-and-true methods. Although techniques and needs changed greatly during those four centuries, the use of traditional materials allowed the city to remain a stunning open-air museum. Its historic center is on the prestigious list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Although that heritage designation is a great distinction, Guimaraes' true historical significance is political in nature. After a glorious victory over the Moors, the knight Henriquez was crowned king by his troops. Because Portugal had no king at the time, Afonso Henriquez was therefore the country's very first king. He named Guimaraes his birthplace, the country's capital. Afonso Henriquez had everything it took to be the first king. The future sovereign was even born in a splendid 10th-century castle. Comprising seven square towers, the medieval fortress was designated a national monument over a century ago. Serving as a royal residence, political jail, and even as a hay barn, the castle was abandoned before being restored to its past glory as the official residence of the country's first king. Since its restoration, the castle has been a very popular tourist attraction. After our royal tour, we get back on the road and head for the country's religious capital, Braga. In the 12th century, Braga was already the seat of an archdiocese. So it comes as no surprise that the town boasts many palaces, churches, and monasteries. If you are able to visit Braga in late March, you will find it one of the country's most colorful places. Thousands of people flood the streets every year to celebrate Holy Week. One of the busiest spots during the week is the imposing Cathedral of Braga, the Sé. The magnificent cathedral, located in a pedestrian zone, dominates Braga's historic center. Rebuilt at the turn of the 12th century on the ruins of an ancient temple, the cathedral features several very influential architectural styles, Roman, Gothic, and even Baroque. In Portugal, the popular saying, older than the Cathedral of Braga is used to designate something very old. It is a testament to the cathedral's longevity. Among Braga's must-see sites is the Church of Bom Jesus do Monte, considered the country's most spectacular sanctuary. To reach the church, we can climb an imposing 600-step stairway, from which it is possible to see nearly 20 chapels commemorating the Stations of the Cross. Our day in Braga is almost over. We need to return to the ship, where we will enjoy a folklore evening with a troupe of traditional dancers. Dance is important in Portugal, especially traditional and folk dance. This evening, a village troupe will perform some of the country's most famous dances. The oldest of these traditional dances are incorporated into rituals, such as harvest celebrations, weddings, or the arrival of spring. One of these dances is called the Vira. This dance is the foundation for several others, including the Vira Corrido, Vira Valcedo, and the Vira de Maia Volta, or half-turn dance. Very often, the dancers wear traditional costumes that vary depending on the dancer's home region, class, and social standing. Tonight, we will be treated to a sampling of traditional dances, which have been passed down from generation to generation for many centuries. For this last day on Portugal's River of Gold, we have decided to spend one more day in Porto. This time, we are going to have the opportunity to admire one of Europe's most ancient cities from a different perspective, illuminated Porto. The splendid buildings, already very fine in the sunshine, take on a whole new look at night. The streets are nearly deserted, especially here in the financial district. Instead of lineups and rushed customers, we find the place transformed by muted lighting. Spaces seem larger than usual, and the shadows and light create a wonderful show. The Clerics Tower, for which many years served as a lighthouse, still lights up at night. Only now, the lights are pointing at it. Because of its height, it remains one of the city's iconic structures, all 76 meters of it lit up from the base. Our tour of Porto by night ends at the train station. Here, it is not so much the lighting that attracts us, but the building's impressive mosaics, the Azulejos. The train station is practically a museum in its own right. Here we find a depiction of one of the most important moments in Portugal's history, the Battle of Valdevez, which historians consider the first step toward Portuguese independence. This jousting tournament took place in lieu of a conventional battle. The opponents agreed that a tournament would be the best way to avoid a bloody melee. The Portuguese, led by Afonso Henriques, won the battle. The end of the cruise takes place in the lounge at mid-deck. To say goodbye, a tuna comes to put on a brief performance. A tuna is a musical group made up mainly of students who sing the country's popular songs. In keeping with tradition, the individual members, known as tunos, are dressed in black with capes. Their happy songs cap our adventure on the River of Gold. On this Douro River cruise, we learned about the different grapes that go into port wine and explored the wonderful cities and villages that make Porto one of Europe's greatest travel destinations.