In this video i do a successful ABS print on my Ender 3, with no enclosure. I used Amazon Basics black ABS, and printed a calibration cube. reducing/eliminating the warping and seperation that can be caused by printing in the open air Ender 3 by using a draft shield. draft shields are an expiramental setting in cura that can help regulate the temperature around your abs model, giving you an accurate, unwarped print without an encloure. Check out how it came out!
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The nozzle's about 250 degrees, the bed's about 70 degrees, in between it's fairly warm, but the further the nozzle gets away from the bed, the bigger that temperature variance in the middle is, and that can cause some cracks and separation.
It does help keep it from splitting away from the bed a little bit, but you will notice that I do also have a brim here just to keep the bottom of my print completely flat.
It does lead to a little bit of extra cleanup at the end, but it's worth it in order to have a flat and accurate part.
So, you can see my printing temperature is at 250, build plate's at 75, and I also have the cooling completely turned off.
With that fan blowing on there too, that can cause uneven cooling and it can cause layer separation and splitting as well, so we'll just go ahead and leave that off so we don't have any issues there.
And I'm at 0.2mm layer height. Looks like everything looks pretty good.
Now, to turn on the draft shield, it's under experimental settings, and if you don't see it, you're going to want to click on this cogwheel here, type in draft, and it'll show up.
You only have to select the top one. You can select the other ones if you'd like to change the settings.
That's these other settings here, the draft shield XY distance, how far away it is from the model, and the height limitation.
You can set it to go only up to a certain layer or height instead of going all the way up the model.
Those are helpful, but I left them at default, and I saved the file to my SD card.
So let's jump over to the printer, and I'll show you what it looks like with this printing on.
Alright, so the calibration keeps this kind of a quick print here. You can see that it's done.
This here is our draft shield. That's what keeps it from warping up and splitting away, and you can actually see down in there that it is still square all the way around.
We'll get it off of here and get a little bit better look at it.
And this is the bottom. I did print it with a brim because the brim also helps adhere the bottom layer, so that'll have to be stripped away.
But you can see that it's attached fully to the draft shield, and it pretty much encloses it and keeps the heat in there to keep it from warping or cracking.
So let's take it out and see how it came out all together and check it for any warps or cracks or issues like that.
Alright, so here is our ABS calibration cube. Looks pretty good.
I did this at .2mm, so the layer lines could be refined a little bit, but not too shabby.
There's our hotend marker. You can see a little bit of the seam there didn't go down on the corner.
I'll have to double check my settings and make sure I have it set right to the sharpest seam.
And then the top there. I'm going to need to adjust the flow rate a little bit, or possibly turn it up a little bit.
But all in all, it is square. You can see it sits flat. It's not warped at all, and it's not cracked or separated.
I did scratch a little bit when I was removing the brim there, but not too bad for an ABS print with no enclosure.
That draft shield helps quite a bit.
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