Ive recently had some requests to go over some profile settings for different types of plastic. this is for cura 4.3, and is my PLA profile. I will show you how to set up and save a couple different PLA profiles in cura 4.3, so you can quickly adjust quality and other settings, simply by switching profiles. if your learning cura 4.3, this is a great place to start before you begin a print!
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Video Summary
AI Generated
This video provides a step-by-step guide on creating and managing PLA printing profiles for the Ender 3 using a base \"Post Hotend Fix\" profile. The creator explains how to adjust temperature, cooling, and layer heights to balance print quality and speed, while demonstrating how to save these configurations as distinct profiles for easy access.
All right guys, welcome back. I'm TechNiverous. Today I'm going to be showing you some different
settings for different profiles for different types of plastic, such as ABS, PLA, or PETG.
Now the important thing to remember here is I will of course put the link to my main profile,
which is this Kira Ender 3 Post Hotend Fix profile, down below. But that is just going
to be a base starting point. You can run that with PLA with no problem right from the download,
and you should get decent prints. There are, however, a few things that we will be changing.
So today we are going to set up first a PLA profile, and we're going to do that right now.
So basically what we're going to be doing is leaving the layer height, the line width,
all of this stuff. We're going to change very few settings from my base profile. And what we're
going to do is go down to the printing temperature, and we're going to set it to 215 or 210. That is
a good base point for PLA because you're going to be probably five degrees in either direction
from there. So you'll be basically between 200 to 205 to 220. That is the general PLA range.
Some PLAs do go higher, and if your PLA has any sort of translucent quality to it at all,
I would recommend turning it up. Transparency is a good indicator that that plastic will contain
at least some amount of PETG and therefore require a slightly higher temperature. One good example of
this is if you've seen my review for the Color Me 3D Purple Haze filament. It is a PLA, but it
prints at 240, and it does have a semi-translucent quality to it. Now that you have your temperature
set, you can go ahead and leave the build plate at 55 for PLA. Feel free to turn it up to 60 if
makes you more comfortable. I honestly, I don't change this for any of my prints other than TPU
because I have PEI, so it's really good adhesion. I don't need to worry about, I mean, I could just
leave it off to be honest. The other thing you want to make sure you have on when you're printing
PLA is the fan. You want to enable print cooling, and you want it at 100 percent, okay? And that's
basically it. Most of my profiles will rock a skirt. If you're having adhesion problems, you
can go ahead and kick it up to a brim or a raft, but usually 9 times out of 10, a skirt is sufficient.
I will say if you're printing something that is taller than it is wide, you probably want to
change this to brim, but other than that, not a big deal. Spiralized contour, you want to make sure
this is unchecked. It should be unchecked when you download the profile. I was just printing a base,
so I may have accidentally turned it on, but other than that, it's pretty simple. Like I said,
you can print straightforward with this, and you're going to get a nice PLA profile. So what
we're going to do is we're going to go to settings, profile, manage profiles. If it ever loads here,
this is the one I'm working on. I changed it, okay? So what I'm going to do is hit create,
and we are going to go ahead and get rid of the post-hotend fixed tag, and I'm going to
save this as PLA. And we're going to say 0.2, because this is going to determine we're going
to make a couple of these. So 0.2 there, go ahead and close that out. And we're going to go back up
here, change this to 0.16. And we will do the same thing again, create 0.2, it's going to be 0.6.
Okay, and close that out again. And we will do one at half of that. Now you could do one for
0.12 and 0.04. 0.04 is going to give you a really, really nice model, it's just going to take
forever. So as we're turning this number down, the layer height, we are increasing the time of our
print, but we are also decreasing the visibility of layer lines, and therefore coming out with a
smoother print. So profile, manage profiles, create, change this to 0.08. Okay, now as I'm
adding these, you can see, and now if I go up here to settings, and I go to profile, you can
see they are now in here right here. And in fact, I'm going to fix this. So I got an ampersand in
there, or a hashtag as you kids these days would say. Profile, manage profiles, really easy to
change names and stuff. So rename, just get rid of that ampersand, or that hashtag. Ampersand, it's
not even an ampersand. An ampersand is the and symbol. Back in my day, we used to call that the
pound sign, not the ampersand. Anyway, you can see I have my three different profiles here.
0.2, which is going to be my largest layer height, and therefore my least quality, but fastest
printing model, all the way up to 0.8, which is the best looking profile that I have so far. And
the only difference in there, like I said, is the layer height. You're going to want to make sure
that as you're printing and checking, getting new PLAs, and checking the temperature that you're
printing at the right temperature for that PLA. So once you pick the quality you want, you are
still going to have to go in and make sure that the temperature is where you need to be. They're
not all exactly the same. This is a super simple way to set up a Ender 3 PLA profile. All you have
to do is grab that main profile and make a couple of tweaks. I honestly didn't have these created
before because there's maybe three settings that I change when I go in between printing PLAs,
where I'll decide what quality I want, change the layer height, and then I will go and make
sure my printing temperature is adequate, and I always double check to make sure that my
fan is on. Other than that, I'm pretty much running the same thing through all my PLA prints.
That's going to be it for this episode, guys. Stay tuned because the next episode coming up is going
to set up a profile for vase mode for you, and then we will go into setting up a ABS,
a PETG, separate profiles. We're going to do that in three separate videos, just to keep them kind
of short and let people go directly to the one that they want to see. Don't forget to hit that
like and subscribe button, guys, and stay tuned for more. We got lots to see. As always, guys,
I am Tech Nibberish. Thanks for watching this video. Don't forget to hit the like button. You
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