Easy and accurate assisted bed leveling - MatterControl 2.0

Hey guys, Tech Nervous here again. We are going to do something a little bit different today. We are going to be leveling the bay, but we are going to use the leveling method that comes built in to MatterControl. Now this is another reason that this is an excellent slicer for beginners just getting into 3D printing to pick up and use their first time. And I'm going to show you how to do that now on the screen here. So basically what we need to do is go to where it says controls here. I showed you how to open this menu in another video. I want to make sure, yes I am connected. If it says to connect right here, make sure you hit connect. Go back to controls and we're going to click on this little compass next to printer calibration. Now I've already calibrated mine. We're going to run through it again just so you can see how to do it. So we're going to go ahead and click on this. And it says basically print leveling measures the plane of the bed. This data compensates for machine misalignment and bed distortion and ensures good first layer adhesion. Now in a minute when I turn this on you're going to see the printer behind me homing to three positions on the bed. It will do a triangular pattern. It is going to heat the bed and the hotend first. And I do have my sheet of paper. We are still going to use this sheet of paper. This method is a lot more accurate than using the screws on the bottom because it is digital and it is very very accurate as far as the exact height at what part of the bed and then it calculates the rest as it's doing the gcode. So a little bit more advanced method of measuring your bed. But it is a little bit easier as well because you're only taking measurements from those three points. So basically it's going to be a three-step process once we get it heated up. And each of those three stations is going to have us lower it until it is touching the paper and the paper can't move. And then once we get there we'll back it up one so we can remove the paper. And then it will dial it in using the next smallest increment. We'll do it again. Then once it can't move we'll back it up. And we will do it one more time using an even finer increment until we have all three positions exactly where we want them. Now it looks from the looks of this and I'll show you just in a second the pattern that you're going to see here. It looks as if there is a couple other patterns that you can set it up to use. I only see the one option in here for now. I'm going to do a little bit more digging because we are still working on that mods and extensions video for Slic3r Battles. But for now we are waiting to get up to temp. As you can see up here I am at 173 of 220 and 51 out of 60. So we're going to be there pretty soon. I'm going to do my best to stay out of the frame here. It is kind of a tricky position. I can't bring my camera any closer because it's mounted where it's at right now. So basically you're going to get the gist of this. What you need to pay attention to is not really the position of what's going on on the screen here but what step I'm following in the actual Slic3r itself. So we're done here and we can hit next. And it is in position. It is saying using the Z controls on this screen right here we will have to take course measurement. So we need to lower the Z and every time we do we'll wiggle the paper a little bit and when we feel it starting to stick right there it doesn't move. We're going to back it up one and hit next. Now we're going to tune it a little bit tighter. These are smaller movements in that same little area. So just move it one at a time wiggling your paper. When you feel it stick back it up one hit next. And again we are doing our third increment here. That's good there. And now it will raise it up. It'll move to the next position. We're going to repeat the process. So I'm underneath the head. I'm using my controls on the screen here to lower it. I know the last one was right about one or zero so I know I can jump down a few. Since 1.0 and zero I stuck so we are going to move on from there. Don't forget to move the Z back up to release the paper. It does keep track of where it clamped at the last measurement. So now we are going to come down again. And I got resistance there so I'm going to back up one and go to next. And we are again having resistance there so back up one. Now it is going to raise. We are going to do the last position in the back of the middle of the bed. And then we will be done with this procedure. You see how short easy it was and you get a nice level print. So we are going to lower it down again. I'm not going to bother wiggling it till I get near the bottom here. And we'll pinch next. Okay and that is it. Congratulations print leveling is now configured and enabled. Remove the paper. You can see the leveling solution we used was a three-point plane. We are now all leveled. And I did do this once before to check it out and make sure that I was doing it properly. And I did get a very, very flat bottom print. This is very level. The adhesion was perfect. Things went down very nicely. And this is an excellent method for leveling your bed quick, easy, and accurately. And as always guys, I am Techniverous. Thanks for watching this video. Don't forget to hit the like button. You can subscribe right here by clicking on the icon. And I put a couple videos up in the corner. One of them is going to be my latest video, my latest upload. And the other one is going to be what YouTube recommends for you. So feel free to check those out. Don't forget to hit that bell for notifications down below. And we'll see you guys next time.